DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY CS8060HD Center Channel Speaker User Manual

DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY CS8060HD Center Channel Speaker

The following will detail the amplifier removal process for Definitive Technology model CS8060hd, covering both HA and HB revisions.
The speaker should be unplugged from any receiver or power amp that it may be plugged into. Disconnect the speaker from AC power at least 60 minutes prior to starting. Gather the tools you will need in a clean well-lighted place:

• a Phillips head screwdriver,
• a flat head screwdriver,
• a small plastic cup for screws
• a (small or tack) hammer,
• a needle nosed pliers (recommended)
• a digital camera (or pen and paper).
• Masking tape (optional)

For successful service you must send both the panel-amplifier and the separate Power Supply Unit (PSU).

Remove the Port Trim Ring

The port is located on the back of the speaker.

1. Remove and reserve the screws that bolt it in place.
   It is very important that you retain all the original screws.

2. Remove and reserve the port trim.

Remove the Back Plate Amplifier

1. Remove the screws that are along the outer edge of the back panel.
   CAUTION: Only remove the screws along the outer edge of the back panel.

   • As you get the screws out drop them into the plastic cup to keep track of them.
     It is very important that you retain all the original screws.

2. Remove the back panel from the cabinet.

   • If it sticks you can try to grasp the power inlet plug or the binding posts.
   • You may also use a small flat head screw driver to try to dislodge it.

3. Once you have an initial separation of the back panel amp and the cabinet, use a flat headed screw driver to work your way around the lip into which the amp is mounted and dislodge the gasket from the back panel.

   • If the gasket does not stick disregard this step.
   • If there is no gasket present on your model disregard this step.

4. Once free, the amp should be rotated sideways so it gently rests across the recently vacated opening. Now take a moment to prepare for the reinstallation.

   • Snap some pictures to be sure you maintain the orientation of which wires connect to which jumpers. Do not rely solely on memory.
   • Alternately take notes, such as: X colored wire is connected to the amp board posts labeled JP1. Y colored wire is connected to the amp jumper post labeled JP2 and so forth…
   • It can also be helpful to use masking tape and a sharpie to mark wires.

5. There are a number of wires connected to the inside of the plate, using both fast on and molex type connectors. Before you disconnect the wires that are connected to the inside of the back panel mark them appropriately using masking tape, or take some digital photos, so you can be sure to reconnect them appropriately.

   • Passive Crossover
     One set of wires gets disconnected from the inside of the binding posts. The other end of these wires stay connected to the internal crossover.

   • Power Supply Unit
     Additional connection(s) between the PSU and the back panel amp use Molex connectors.

6. Now that you have marked your wires (where appropriate), they may be removed.
   For fast on connectors, needle nose pliers should be used to gently grasp and remove, using as purely lateral of a motion as possible.
   For Molex connectors is may be easier to remove the connector without damage if you use your fingers instead.

   • Try not to put torsional pressure on the tabs.
   • Be sure to grasp the fast on connector above the male tab sticking up off the board and below the the wire itself.
   • Aim for the root of the fast on connector where is grabs onto the wire.
   • Remove using as purely lateral a motion as possible.
   • Do not torque the connector

Gasket

There is also an optional gasket between the plate and the enclosure that pinches the grille cloth; you can try to remove this gasket but it’s just as easy to cut the grille around it, since the grille will be replaced (see also notes below on front vanity trim).
We do not have replacement gaskets available. If your original cannot be salvaged a fully functional replacement can be constructed outr of single cardboard, such as might be found backing a legal pad.

End Caps

The left and right side end caps both pop off, using tension only.

Front Vanity Trim

There is a shiny black plastic vanity plate along the entire front top edge of the speaker.
The plate is held in with tension; it is wedged through the grille and into the wooden enclosure.

1. Starting at the edge that is normally covered with the grill sock, work along the bottom of the vanity trim with a flat item such as a butter knife, carefully working the trim piece free of its wedged position.

Removing this plate will expose tears in the grill but it cannot be avoided and does not matter as long as replacement grills are available.

Remove Subwoofer Driver

Once the above items have been removed from the cabinet – port ring, back panel plate amp, gasket, end caps, & vanity trim:

1. Loosen the grill twine and lower the grill sock to expose the active woofer.
   • For products with serial numbers containing the HB revision code, after the 4 digit date code, the 8” woofer is covered with a protective metal grate.
   • The grate is bolted on; simply unscrew the metal grate, reserve all screws and set the metal grate aside.
   • For products with serial numbers containing the HA revision code, after the 4 digit date code, there is no protective metal grate.
2. Remove the screws retaining the 8 inch woofer in the enclosure.
3. While supporting the subwoofer with one hand, tip the product in such a way to ease the subwoofer out of the cabinet.
4. The wires unclip from the internal power supply unit.
5. Carefully note the orientation of the woofer in the hole, by the location of the woofer-speaker wire tabs, and set the woofer aside. It is highly recommended to take a digital photo to help you reorient when you go to reinstall.

Remove the Power Supply Unit

1. Now that you have marked & disconnected at least one end of all each wire, the PSU may be removed.
   • The PSU is mounted to fins or a frame, the fin / frame structure is in turn mounted in the cabinet.
   • Take a digital photo so you can reinstall it in the correct orientation.
   • Unscrew the frame from the cabinet but leave the PCB mounted to the frame.

the amp.

Caution: any component with a capacitor on it, including the amp and the PSU, can store some electrical charge even when unplugged.

Install a Fresh Grill

A grill sock should have been sent to you separately as part of your repair purchase (e.g. at no additional charge). Once service is complete you may want to install a fresh grill so the speaker’s fit and finish can be restored.
To replace the grill sock when you rebuild the speaker follow these generalized steps:

1. Re-install the internal PSU.

   • The wire harnesses should already be connected to the PSU.
   • It is not possible to connect these harnesses to the PSU from the back panel opening. The harnesses must be in place on the PSU before it goes into the cabinet.
   • Double check the correct cables are in place before proceeding.

2. Reinstall the woofer.

   • The speaker wires should already be connected to the woofer.
   • Reconnect them back to the PSU unit.
   • Reseat the woofer and rebolt into place.
     If you want to run a test before you reinstall the grill, by first reinstalling the back panel so you can fire it up and check the repair, then this would be the time.

3. Pull the grill sock over one end of the speaker

4. Center the grill sock so there is an equal amount of grill sock material past both left and right sides of the speaker.

5. Tighten the grill cloth ties.

6. Install the back panel gasket reserved earlier and cut out the space in the middle where the back panel amp will go.

7. Reconnect and Install the back panel amp.

8. Center the vanity trim across the front edge of the speaker.

9. Use a rubber mallet to pound it back into place.

10. Some people report they prefer to just leave it off afterwards because it does not feel right to slug it out with your center channel. That is fine as well; this piece offers no sonic benefit.

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