DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY BP8020ST Bipolar Tower with Built In Power Subwoofer Owner’s Manual

DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY BP8020ST Bipolar Tower with Built In Power Subwoofer Owner’s Manual

The following will detail the amplifier removal process for Definitive Technology model BP8020ST, covering both HA and HB revisions.

The speaker should be unplugged from any receiver or power amp that it may be plugged into.
Disconnect the speaker from AC power at least 60 minutes prior to starting. Gather the tools you will need in a clean well-lighted place:

• a Phillips head screwdriver,
• a flat head screwdriver,
• a small plastic cup for screws
• a (small or tack) hammer,
• a needle nosed pliers (recommended)
• a digital camera (or pen and paper).
• Masking tape (optional)

For successful service you must send both the back panel plate amp and the separate internal Power Supply Unit (PSU).

Remove the Back Panel Plate Amp

1. Remove the screws that are along the outer edge of the back panel.
   CAUTION: Only remove the screws along the outer edge of the back panel.
   a. As you get the screws out drop them into the plastic cup to keep track of them. It is very important that you retain all the original screws.

2. Remove the back panel from the cabinet.
   a. If it sticks you can try to grasp the power inlet plug or the binding posts.
   b. You may also use a small flat head screw driver to try to dislodge it.
   Caution: the panel’s internal circuitry can store some charge even while unplugged.

3. Once you have an initial separation of the back panel amp and the cabinet, use a flat headed screw driver to work your way around the lip into which the amp is mounted and dislodge the gasket from the back panel.
   a. If the gasket does not stick disregard this step.
   b. If there is no gasket present on your model disregard this step.

4. Once free, the amp should be rotated sideways so it gently rests across the recently vacated opening. Now take a moment to prepare for the reinstallation.
   a. Snap some pictures to be sure you maintain the orientation of which wires connect to which jumpers. Do not rely solely on memory.
   b. Alternately take notes, such as: X colored wire is connected to the amp board posts labeled JP1. Y colored wire is connected to the amp jumper post labeled JP2 and so forth…
   There are a number of wires connected to the inside of the plate, using both fast on and molex type connectors. Before you disconnect the wires that are connected to the inside of the back panel mark them appropriately using masking tape, or take some digital photos, so you can be sure to reconnect them appropriately.
   c. Passive Crossover
   One set of wires gets disconnected from the inside of the binding posts. The other end of these wires stay connected to the internal crossover.
   d. Power Supply Unit
   Additional connection between the PSU and the back panel amp use Molex connectors.

5. Now that you have marked your wires (where appropriate), they may be removed from the back panel.
   For fast on connectors, needle nose pliers should be used to gently grasp and remove, using as purely lateral of a motion as possible.
   For Molex connectors is may be easier to remove the connector without damage if you use your fingers instead.
   a. Try not to put torsional pressure on the tabs.
   b. Be sure to grasp the fast on connector above the male tab sticking up off the board and below the the wire itself.
   c. Aim for the root of the fast on connector where it grabs onto the wire.
   d. Some fast on connectors have a locking tab on them.
   e. Remove using as purely lateral a motion as possible.
   f. Do not torque the connector

Gasket

Once you have the amp completely removed use a hammer to gently but firmly tap the staples securing the gasket back into place.

Wire Harnesses

Be sure to save the wires with the tiny metal jumper clips that snake away into the speaker. It can also be helpful to use a piece of masking tape to make sure the wires you disconnected stay easy to find.

Remove the Power Supply Unit

1. The internal PSU may now be removed.

2. Remove the top end cap of the speaker using as purely vertical a motion as possible.

3. Loosen the grill twine and lower the grill sock to expose the active woofer.
   a. For serial numbers with the HB notation after the 4 digit date code, the 8” woofer is covered with a protective metal grate.
   The grate is bolted on; simply unscrew the metal grate, reserve all screws and set the metal grate safely aside.
   b. HA revisions did not have a metal grate.

4. Lean the tower back slightly so the gravity is keeping the woofer from falling out once it is removed.

5. Unscrew the woofer and apply negative pressure to the woofer as you tip the cabinet forward to gently ease the woofer from the enclosure. Be careful as the woofer is heavy and will want to fall to the ground as soon as its screws are released.
   a. Unclip the wires that connect the woofer to the PSU.
   b. Unclip them from the PSU but leave them clipped to the woofer.
   c. Set the woofer to the side

6. Unscrew the PSU, located directly behind the woofer.

the amp.

Caution: any component with a capacitor on it, including the amp and the PSU, can store some electrical charge even when unplugged.

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