JL AUDIO 94491 Slpk Can Spyder

Specifications

• Product Name: SlamPak
• Model: SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1
• SKU: 94491 & 94490
• Installation Difficulty: 3 out of 5
• Estimated Time: 5 hours

Product Usage Instructions

Prepare the Motorcycle
Empty out the front storage space of the motorcycle so that you have a clean area to work in.

Remove Bottom Panel
Remove the bottom panel above the rear tire.

Remove Panels
Lift the seat and remove the panel that simulates a gas tank at the top center of the motorcycle. Remove the two panels labeled “can-am” (one on each side) and the two panels labelled “spyder” (one on each side).

Remove Air Duct Body Panels
Remove the air duct body panels on each side of the motorcycle. If there are auxiliary lights installed, unplug them.

Remove the Front Air Dam
Remove the front air dam.

Install Harness
The harness for power, ground, remote turn-on, signal, and speakers will come down the right side of the motorcycle and enter the storage compartment in the upper right rear corner.

Locate Wire Loom Entry

Look down from the top front of the storage compartment to locate where the wire loom enters.

Cut a Hole
Using a 1-1/8 hole saw, cut a hole for the harness to come through from the front right tire side.

Install Pods (Optional
If you are installing the full system, skip this step. Cut out the templates provided and position them as shown. Remove the panel directly above the storage compartment as indicated by the arrow.

Cut Holes
Mark the center positions of each template and cut two holes with a diameter of 3-5/8 inches.

Mount Bevelled Hole Trims
Using the supplied #6-1 x 3/4 Phillips head screws, mount the beveled hole trims as shown.

Position Wax Square
Position the wax square in the front right corner of the storage compartment.

Indentation and Finalize Installation Thread the 3/8-16 x 1-1/4 Hex Head Bolt into the enclosure and press it down into the storage compartment towards the right front corner. The Hex Head Bolt will leave an indentation in the wax square. Once confirmed, remove the Hex Head Bolt from the
enclosure.

FAQ

Q: Can I install only the pods without the full system?
A: Yes, you can install only the pods. Please refer to Step 9 for instructions specific to installing the pods only.

Q: Are there any precautions I should take while cutting/drilling?
A: Yes, always wear eye protection when drilling. Additionally, make sure you are not drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems, or anything else that might cause harm.

Thank you for choosing a JL Audio Slampak® for your motorcycle sound system. With proper installation, your new vehicle-specific enclosed sound system will deliver years of listening pleasure. We strongly recommend that you have your new Slampak® installed by your authorized JL Audio dealer. The installation professionals employed by your dealer have the necessary tools and experience to disassemble and reassemble your vehicle properly. Also, keep in mind that your warranty coverage extends to 2 years if your system is installed or approved by your authorized JL Audio dealer. If you prefer to perform your own installation, please read this installation guide completely before beginning the process.

IMPORTANT
you choose to perform the installation yourself, it is absolutely vital that the Stealthbox® be properly mounted to the vehicle according to these instructions. Failure to mount the enclosure properly presents two problems:

1. The sub-bass performance will suffer due to the movement of the enclosure caused by the force exerted by the woofer(s).
2. A loose enclosure presents a serious safety hazard in the event of a collision or sudden deceleration.

INSTALLATION

STEP 1
Empty out the front storage space of the motorcycle so that you have a clean area to work in.

If you are only installing the pods, skip to STEP 16.

STEP 2
Remove the bottom panel above the rear tire as shown here

STEP 3
Lift the seat, and remove the panel that simulates a gas tank at the top center of the motorcycle. Remove the two panels labeled “can-am” (one on each side of the motorcycle) and the two panels labeled “spyder” (one on each side of the motorcycle).

STEP 4
Remove the air duct body panels as indicated by the image at left. (One on each side of the motorcycle). There may be auxiliary lights installed in this panel, unplug them as the panel is removed. If you are ONLY installing the pods and NOT the full system but will be installing an amplifier in the front storage compartment, only remove the air duct body panel on the right- hand side (where the harness enters the storage compartment (as seen in STE P 5 below), skip to STEP 6.

STEP 5
Remove the front Air dam.

STEP 6
The harness for power, ground, remote turn-on, signal, and speakers will come down the right side of the motorcycle and enter the storage compartment in the upper right rear corner as shown below.

STEP 7
Looking down from the top front of the storage compartment, notice where the wire loom enters the compartment.

STEP 8
Looking up from the front right tire, use a 1-1/8” hole- saw to cut a hole for the harness to come through as seen in STEP 7. Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else that might cause a reduction in your weekly pay. Always wear eye protection when drilling!

STEP 9
If you are ONLY installing the pods and NOT the full system, skip to STEP 16.The two templates shown can be found on the last two pages of the install manual, cut them out and position them as shown. Remove the panel directly above the storage compartment as indicated by the arrow.

STEP 10
Mark the center positions of each template and cut the two holes, the holes should be 3-5/8” in diameter after they are cut.
USE ALL PRECAUTIONS WHEN CUTTING/DRILLING

STEP 11
Mount the beveled hole trims as shown using the 8 Bsupplied #6-1 x 3/4” Phillips head screws (4 per trim).

STEP 12
Looking down and towards the front right corner of the storage compartment, position the wax square as shown.

STEP 13
Thread the 3/8-16 x 1-1/4” Hex Head Bolt all the way into the enclosure. Press the enclosure down into the storage compartment towards the right front corner, the Hex Head Bolt will leave an indentation in the wax square. Once you’ve confirmed the indentation in the wax square, remove the Hex Head Bolt from the enclosure.

STEP 14
Drill a 5/16” hole where the indentation was made in STEP 13. Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else that might cause a reduction in your weekly pay. Always wear eye protection when drilling!

STEP 15
Install the 3/8-16 x 1-1/4” Hex Head Bolt through the included Split Lock Washer, the 1-1/4” Fender Washer, and the hole drilled in STEP 14 into the enclosure, tighten this fastener down. Once this fastener is tight, the front air dam can be reinstalled.

STEP 16
Remove the gauge cluster as shown by lifting top panel then depressing two locking tabs on top of the cluster.

STEP 17
Put a length of masking tape as shown on each side of the top fairing

STEP 18
Remove the larger speaker from each pod, the smaller speaker can remain in the pod. The speakers are only secured in the pods for shipping with 3- screws, use all six when re-installing. (In the following pictures, both speakers have been removed, this is NOT necessary!  Position foam strips as shown on each pod. Note the location of the three holes in the pods, two will be used to mount the pod, the third will be the wire run.

STEP 19
Align the pod with the back edge matching the fairing (as shown) and the front corners as shown in STEP 20.

STEP 20
alignment of the front of each pod, once both front and rear alignment are achieved, use a marker to make marks on the masking tape shown in STEP 17 through the holes in the pods identified in STEP 18.

STEP 21
Drill the holes as marked through the fairing, each hole needs to be 5/16” in diameter. Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else that might cause a reduction in your weekly pay. Always wear eye protection when drilling!

STEP 22
Looking through the gauge cluster location, install the “UBolt” around the steel dash structure and through the two upper holes drilled in STEP 21.

STEP 23
Run the speaker wire through the bottom hole drilled in STEP 21 as shown.

STEP 24
Set each pod into position, with the “U-Bolt” coming through the two upper holes and the wire coming through the bottom hole. Secure the pod to the motorcycle using the included 1/4 x 1” Fender Washer and 1/4” Nyloc Nut on each leg of the “U-Bolt”, and tighten using a rotation method similar to changing a tire so that both legs are tightened simultaneously. Hook up the wire to the speaker and, re-install speakers into pods.

If you are ONLY installing the pods and NOT the full system, You have completed your installation of the pods. Run the wire from either side of the fairing to your source (or amplifier) location. Enjoy your new Slampak®!

STEP 25
Locate the battery above the rear tire, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Secure the fuse holder close to the terminal, remove the fuse. Attach the ring terminal for the positive battery run to the positive battery terminal and run the cable from the battery terminal to the fuse holder. Attach the cable to the fuse holder. Attach the remaining cable to the output of the fuse holder and run it through the included Split Loom. Make sure on all cabling runs to secure all wires when running them so that they cannot get tangled in any moving parts or the exhaust system.

STEP 26
Under the seat, directly above the fuse panel, you’ll notice a grounding point, this is an excellent location to get a good ground for the amplifier and secure the ring terminal for the ground to this point. Run the ground cable so that it can integrate into the Split Loom with the positive battery cable. Again, Make sure on all cabling runs to secure all wires when running them so that they cannot get tangled in any moving parts or the exhaust system.

STEP 27
Run the power cables up the right-hand side of the motorcycle, securing it as described earlier at regular intervals alongside the frame or other cable runs.

STEP 28
Make sure that the cabling is secured so that there is no way that it can get tangled in any moving parts on the motorcycle, including steering, suspension, exhaust or passengers. The cable will be joined by the speaker wire, signal wire for the RLC, and signal from the source, just before it enters the front storage compartment (through the hole drilled in STEP 8, as shown by the arrow.)

STEP 29
From the gauge cluster location, there should be the two speaker wires, the wire for the Remote Level Control (it looks like a phone cord), the small gauge blue remote turn-on wire (included) and the signal cable. Many people find it easier to run the mini plug on the signal cable up from the amplifier location than running the RCA’s on the amplifier end of that cable down. If you choose to run that cable up, run a “pull line” or, string along with it, that way, once the run is made, you can use the pull line to pull the other cables down towards the amplifier.

STEP 30
Again, secure all cables along the full run to ensure that they cannot get tangled in any moving parts or the exhaust system. The signal and speaker wires will join with the power cables that came up the side of the motorcycle and all enter the front storage compartment through the hole drilled in STEP 8, as shown by an arrow.

STEP 31
To mount the Remote level control, determine a convenient and safe location, drill a 3/8” hole, Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else. Always wear eye protection when drilling! Gently but firmly, pull the knob off of the control, use the supplied washers and nut to “sandwich” the surface you just drilled the hole in, mount the control, and replace the knob.

STEP 32
Follow the included instructions for installing the XD400/4, the small blue wire that was run down from the Gauge cluster area needs to be spliced into an accessory switched power source so that the amplifier turns off when the motorcycle is turned off. If the amplifier remains on when the motorcycle is turned off, there is a strong potential for battery drainage! All connections should be made at this time. After all connections are made, review the schematic on page 6, and make sure that all wires are where they belong.

STEP 33
Double-check all connections, once everything has been confirmed as good, install the fuse near the battery. Re-install all removed bodywork, don’t miss any of the hardware.

STEP 34
CONGRATULATION
You have completed the installation for this model! Enjoy your new Slampak®! Please refer to the Power Recommendation section for suggestions on basic amplifier set-up help. For further details on the amplifier, please reference the amplifier owners manual (included).

INCLUDED HARDWARE

• 20. 4-9/16” Nylon Cable tie
• 1. 10’- 1/2” Flex Loom

• 8. 6-12 x 3/4” Screw

• 1. HD-RLC (Remote Level Control)
• 2. Port Bezel
• 1. XD-MFB-MAXI
• 1. XC-MINIRCA-6
• 2. 1/4-20 U Bolt (for Spyder)
• 4. Nylon Locknuts
• 1. 3/8-16 x 1-1/4” Hex Head Bolt
• 1. 3/8” Split Lock Washer
• 1. 3/8” x 1-1/4” Fender Washer
• 1. 3” x 3” Wax Square
• 4. 1/4 x 1” Fender Washer

SPECIFICATION

• (Subwoofer)
• Enclosure Type: Acoustic Suspension (sealed)
• Driver Type: 8W1v2
• Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms
• Continuous Power Handling: 150 Watts

Power Recommendation

Above are the settings as we tested the Slampak® here, you may find that your settings differ slightly. All JL Audio amplifiers are very versatile audio components. Please consult the owner’s manual for even more detailed information about installing and tuning your amplifier

Connections

A schematic of your Slampak® system is seen at the left, please use it as a reference when testing or troubleshooting. Using quality power, signal, and speaker wire is essential in ensuring the performance of your Slampak®. JL Audio Has chosen and tested the wire included in your Slampak® through very rigorous standards, it will provide the best performance for your system.

954-443-1100 www.jlaudio.com

All specifications are subject to change without notice. “JL Audio®” and the JL Audio logo, “Stealthbox” and the Stealthbox logo are registered trademarks of JL Audio, Inc. “Ahead of the Curve” and its respective logo is a trademark of JL Audio, Inc. JLA-SKU# *** .**.2010 • Printed in the USA • ©2010 JL Audio, Inc. • U.S. PATENTS: #5,734,734 #5,949,898 #6,118,884 #6,229,902

6,243,479 #6,294,959 #6,501,844 #6,496,590 #6,441,685 #5,687,247 #6,219,431

6,625,292 #D472,891 #D480,709 Other U.S. & Foreign patents pending. For more

detailed information please visit us online at www.jlaudio.com.

10369 NORTH COMMERCE PARK WAY • MIRAMAR, FLORID  • 33025 • USA

https://manual-hub.com/

References

• JL Audio: Car Stereo, Speakers, Subs, Amps, Home Theater
• Manual-Hub.com – Free PDF manuals!

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