robbe 2700 BOO The Official Brand Website and Shop User Guide

2700 BOO The Official Brand Website and Shop
INSTRUCTIONS AND USER MANUAL

Version Nr.: 2700
Version Nr.: 2694

www.robbe.com

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR CONTROLLERS

• Observe the technical data of the controller.
• Observe the polarity of all connection cables.
• Avoid short circuits at all costs.
• Install or package the regulator so that it cannot come into contact with grease, oil or water.
• Effective interference suppression measures on the electric motor with, for example, interference suppression capacitors
• Ensure adequate air circulation.
• Never reach into the turning circle of the propeller during start-up Risk of injury

Dealing with model aircraft and vehicles requires technical understanding and a high level of safety awareness. Incorrect assembly, incorrect adjustment, improper use or the like can lead to personal injury or damage to property. Sudden starting of connected motors can lead to injuries due to rotating parts such as propellers. Always stay away from these rotating parts when the power source is connected. All drive components should be safely and securely mounted during a function test. Use is only permitted within the scope of the technical specification and only for RC hobby applications. Before use, check that the speed controller is compatible with your drive motor or power source. Never operate the speed controller (correct speed controller) with external power supply units. Speed controllers should always be protected from dust, moisture, vibration and other mechanical stresses. Even splash-proof or waterproof equipment should not be permanently exposed to moisture or moisture. High operating temperatures or poor cooling should be avoided. The recommended temperature range should be approximately between -5°C and +50°C. Ensure proper connection and do not cause reverse polarity which would permanently damage the speed controller. Never disconnect the device from the motor or battery during operation. Use high-quality plug systems with sufficient load capacity. Avoid strong bending or tensile stress on the connecting cables. After termination of flight or driving operation, disconnect the battery to prevent deep discharge of the battery. This would cause permanent damage. For the BEC version of the controller, check that the BEC power of the device is sufficient for the servos used. Speed controllers should be installed as far away as possible from other remote control components. We recommend carrying out a range test before operation. We recommend regular checking of the controller for function and externally visible damage. Do not continue operating the controller if you notice any damage. The connection cables must not be extended. This can lead to unwanted malfunctions. Despite existing safety and protective devices of the device, damage may occur which is not covered by warranty. The warranty also expires if changes are made to the device.

Important information:
The receiver system is powered by the built-in BEC system of the controller.
For commissioning, always move the throttle stick to the „Motor off“ position and switch on the transmitter. Only then connect the battery. To switch off always disconnect the connection battery motor controller, first then turn off the transmitter. During the functional test, move the servos of the rudders to neutral position with the remote control (stick and trimming lever on the transmitter to the middle position). Please make sure to leave the throttle stick in the lowest position so that the engine does not start. For all work on to the parts of the remote control, motor or controller, follow the instructions supplied with the units. Also read the instructions of the battery and the charger carefully before commissioning. Check the engine mounting bolts in the fuselage regularly for tightness.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES

• Do not immerse the battery in water or other liquids.
• Do not heat, throw into fire or microwave.
• Do not short-circuit or charge with reversed polarity
• Do not expose, deform or throw the battery
• Do not solder directly on the battery
• Do not change or open the battery
• Only charge the battery with suitable chargers, never connect it directly to a power supply unit.
• Never charge or discharge the battery or charger on a flammable surface.
• Never leave the battery unattended during charging or discharging processes.
• Never charge or discharge the battery in direct sunlight or near heaters or fire.
• Do not use the battery in places subject to high static discharge.

All this can cause the battery to be damaged, explode or even catch fire!

• Keep the battery away from children
• Keep leaked electrolyte away from fire, as it is highly flammable and may ignite.
• The electrolyte liquid should not get into the eyes, if it does, rinse immediately with plenty of clear water and then see a doctor.
• The electrolyte liquid can also escape from clothes and other objects with a lot of water or washed off.
• Observe the safety instructions of the battery manufacturer and the charger manufacturer.

WARRANTY

Our articles are equipped with the legally required 24 months warranty. Should you wish to assert a justified warranty claim, always contact your dealer, who is responsible for the warranty and the processing. During this time, any functional defects that may occur, as well as manufacturing or other problems, will be rectified.
Material defects corrected by us free of charge. Further claims, e.g. for consequential damages, are excluded. The transport to us must be free, the return transport to you is also free. Freight collect shipments cannot be accepted. We cannot accept liability for transport damage and loss of your consignment. We recommend appropriate insurance.

To process your warranty claims, the following requirements must be met:

• Attach the proof of purchase (receipt) to your shipment.
• The units have been operated in accordance with the operating instructions.
• Only recommended power sources and original robbe accessories have been used.
• There is no moisture damage, external interference, reverse polarity, overloading or mechanical damage.
• Attach relevant information for finding the fault or defect.

DISCLAIMER

Robbe Modellsport cannot monitor compliance with the assembly and operating instructions or the conditions and methods for installation, operation, use and maintenance of the model components.Therefore, we accept no liability for losses, damage or costs arising from or in any way connected with incorrect use and operation.To the extent permitted by law, the obligation to pay damages, irrespective of the legal grounds, shall be limited directly to the invoice value of the claims arising from the event causing the damage.

INSURANCE

Ground-based models are usually covered by personal liability insurance. Additional insurance or extension is required for aircraft models. Check your insurance policy (private liability) and take out suitable insurance if necessary.

CONFORMITY

Robbe Modellsport hereby declares that this device complies with the essential requirements and other relevant regulations of the corresponding CE directives. The original declaration of conformity can be found on the Internet at www.robbe.com, in the detailed product view of the respective device description or on request. This product can be operated in all EU countries.

DISPOSAL

The sign of a crossed-out dustbin means that the product is not allowed to be disposed of with normal household waste due to certain ingredients. Dispose of the device at your local municipal collection point or recycling centre. This applies to all countries of the European Union and other European countries with a separate collection system.

BOX CONTENT

| Nr.| Accessories needed| KIT
---|---|---|---
Motor| –| –| –
ESC| –| | –
Battery| 7317
7313| Robbe RO-POWER ULTRA HP 320MAH 7,4 VOLT 2S 25(50)C
Robbe RO-POWER ULTRA HP 240MAH 7,4 VOLT 2S 25(50)C| –
Servo ELE| 9128| 1 x FS 135 X DIGITAL HV Servo| –
Servo RUD| 9128| 1 x FS 135 X DIGITAL HV Servo| –
Servo AILE| 9128| 2 x FS 135 X DIGITAL HV Servo| –
Servo FLAP| –| –| –
Servo cable| –| –| –
Adhesives| 5019| SPEED Sekundenkleber Set 3-teilig| –
Epoxy resin| 50600| 5min ro-PDXY 100g adhesive| –
Other| –| lx Wood glue| –
Other| –| lx Covering material| –
Spinner| –| –| –
Propeller| –| –| –
TX| –| min. 4 channels| –
RX| –| min. 5 channels| –

Declaration:
LF: Box content
-: not included
X: included

TECHNICAL DATA BOO 2694

Caution:
High-resolution images of the construction steps (PDF:„ High-resolution images of the construction steps“) are available for download on the product page at: www.robbe.com

GENERAL ABOUT THE MODEL

The construction of the BOO can be built quickly and easily thanks to CNClaser cut parts. With the help of these building instructions, the BOO is assembled without the need of a plan. The construction is quick and easy and can be carried out over a few evenings. The two halves of the wing and the V-tail are assembled directly on the building board. The final assembly takes place on a building jig which is included in the kit. This ensures all components are precisely aligned with one another. When finished the 2-piece wing and the V-tail can easily be removed. This creates a very transport-friendly model.

Recommended R/C equipment:

• 4-channel transmitter, with dual rates and expo
• Micro receiver with normal range (e.g. JETI R5L / Futaba R2106GF)
• Sub-Micro Servos, 4x 9128 FS 135 X DIGITAL HV servo
• Battery, LiPo 2S, 200 – 400 mAh, 7.4V (e.g. Robbe Ro-Power # 7317 / 7313)

Materials needed:

• Film for covering, approx. 60 cm
• Lead approx. 10 g (for CG adjustment)

Tools required:

• Building board
• Sharp knife
• Side cutters
• 100 and 240 grit sandpaper
• Sanding block
• White glue
• Robbe Super Glue „Speed“ (thin and medium # 5062 / 5063)
• Aktivatorspray # 5017
• Glueholder # 50610
• Epoxy adhesive, RO-Poxy 5 minutes # 50600
• Files (square file 3mm, fine flat file)| • Clamps and weights to weigh down
• Set square, 90° angle
• Drill: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 6mm
• Ruder deflection indicator „ROBBE“ „M“
• M3 Tap
• Soldering iron, solder
• Thin double-sided adhesive tape
• Masking tape
• Phillips screwdriver
• Film iron
• Hot-melt adhesive
---|---

INTRODUCTION

Wooden components

• FLZ – aircraft plywood

Individual parts

1| GRP fuselage with carbon fibre canopy|
---|---|---
4| Carbon fibre rectangular profile spars 0.6 x 5 mm| 420 mm
3| Carbon fibre rod 1 mm| 460 mm
2| Bowden 1,7 x 0,8 mm| 400 mm
2| Spring steel 0.6 mm| 500 mm
1| Carbon fibre tube 6mm OD| 200 mm
1| Carbon fibre tube 5mm OD| 55 mm
1| GRP wing joiner|
2| HPL V-tail mounting (outside)|
3| HPL V-tail mounting (inside)|
1| Carbon fibre tail skid 1.5 mm|
2| GRP Y-connector for V-tail 2 mm|
4| GRP knots (2 per wing) lmm|
4| GRP parts for wing fixing/mounting (2 parts per wing) 1 mm|
1| Spring steel for canopy attachment 1 mm| 100 mm
2| Aluminium ruddervator control horns|
2| Ball joint and ball head clevis|
2| Solder connectors|
1| Shrink tubing| 30 mm
2| Socket head cap screws| M3x8
2| Socket head cap screws| M2x6
2| Nuts| M2
1| Pine strip| 2x5x300 mm
1| Square tube (wing joiner)| 5x5x0,5 mm

CAUTION! carry out this work with care, as it is essential for safe operation at a later date. Incorrect installation can lead to personal injury and damage to property.

BUILDING THE WING

KIT
Content of the kit

01 KIT
Cover the building board with film or packing tape so that the components of the BOO do not stick to it with the superglue.

ROOT RIB

01 KIT
For each wing separate the root ribs R0 to R2 and the 0.5mm ply knots K8 from the laser cut ply sheet. Remove the four GRP knots from the GRP boards. Sand off the retaining bars around the edges and remove the surface finish left after manufacture. Note that ribs R1 and R2 each consist of a front and rear part.
Check without glue whether the GRP or wooden knots can be pushed into the individual slots without any problems. If necessary, rework carefully.

02 KIT
Glue the root ribs R0, R1 and R2 to each other with white glue. Glue in the ply knots K8 (long tongue) at the rear of the assembly to align the parts. Use pliers to tuck the wooden knot into the ribs. Align the ribs at the leading edge with a small scrap of plywood. The two GRP knots are also glued into the ribs with superglue. Clamp the three ribs together while they dry. Be sure you are building a left and right root rib!!

GEODETIC RIBS AND LEADING EDGE

01 KIT
Separate the lower aileron sheeting BG from the plywood and sand off the retaining bars. Place the root rib on the sheeting. There is a shoulder at the back of the root rib, the front edge of the sheeting must lie against this shoulder. Align the two components exactly at right angles to each other and glue them with thin superglue.

02 KIT
Sand a carbon fibre spar to remove release agent left from pro- duction. Stick the spar to the building board with a few pieces of thin double-sided adhesive tape. Position the tie bar in the recess of the root rib! The spar should fit up against R0 and between the R1 and R2 sections. The root rib must be at right angles to the spar. Check the distance between the spar and sheeting at the root rib and at the wing tip. The spar and planking must be parallel. When everything is exactly aligned, tape the lower sheeting to the building board with several small pieces of masking tape along the trailing edge. Separate the ribs R3 to R27 and the two aileron sub ribs R28 from the laser cut sheets and sand the retaining bars flush.

03 KIT
Sort the ribs as shown in the illustration according to the numbering of the ribs (which is always in increments of two depending on the orientation of the ribs) and plug the ribs R4 to R25 (R23 with glued-in nodes K26+K27 will only be inserted later) together. The upper ribs are placed on the lower ribs.

04 KIT
The rib frame should now be pulled or pushed to a length of approx. 26.5 cm along the span between the junction points of ribs R5/R8 and R21/R24. Then tack the junction points of the ribs with medium or thick superglue (final gluing is done later) so that the rib frame does not fall apart during further processing.
Make sure that all ribs are glued straight. If necessary, weigh down on a straight surface

 The following construction stage is somewhat tricky due to the size of the model and the resulting small, fragile components. A cup of coffee or similar can help with the concentration and stamina required. Take your time and rest for this construction stage.“

The final rib it has R23 has two wooden knots K26+K27 glued in. The wooden knots are reinserted with flat-nose pliers. The slit is in the back knot.
Make sure you have a left and a right!

Now glue the leading edge N to the root rib at a distance of approx. 5 cm.

INow the complete rib framework can be fitted into the previously made wing construction. With the aid of the „Leading Edge“ jig, the ribs can be positioned so that the ribs fit into this jig without gaps, the end strips of the ribs sit parallel to the lower planking with a small gap as shown in the illustration and the end rib R23 is perfectly in line with the lower planking and the leading edge. If necessary, rework the slot for the GRP gusset in rib R6

08 KIT
Now all the ribs can be glued together, starting from the leading edge (make sure that the ribs sit in the leading edge at the front without any gaps as shown in the illustration! We recommend weighting down the rib frame beforehand to avoid warping. Then insert R3 and R27 and glue them in place.

Caution: The ribs protrude slightly over the leading edge so that the 1 mm CFRP rod can be glued to it later.

09 KIT
Glue the two sub ribs R28 to the lower aileron sheeting with a small gap between. Orientate yourself on the laser cut line. This represents the lateral separating edge of the aileron. You can use 2 pins on the line as spacers. You need to adjust the front of the two ribs to fit against ribs R23 and R27.

  10 KIT
Using side cutters snip off the bulges at the trailing edges of the upper ribs and sand the remaining protrusions flat with a sanding block.

11 KIT
Fill in the first rib field on the root rib trailing edge above the lower aileron sheeting with the triangular piece of balsa F and glue it in place with white glue. As soon as the glue has dried, you can sand the block flush.

UPPER AILERON SHEETING

Glue the upper aileron sheeting onto the surface with white glue. Weigh down the sheeting while the glue dries and make sure that the trailing edge of the aileron is exactly straight.

WING TIP

Hold the wing tip on the wing (the flattened part of the wing tip points to the rear, towards the end rail) and mark where the recess for the CKF spar must be filed on the underside.
The wooden knots protrude slightly over the rib R23 and should engage in the wing tip. Therefore, please note that the wing tip not only comes closer to the surface, but that the position also changes due to the inclined last rib.
File the lower recess into the wing tip using a flat file. Once the recess has been created, press the wing tip firmly against the last rib. This presses the protrusions of the two knots into the wing tip bow. The pressed-in area on the wing tip can then be trimmed.
If everything fits together well, you can glue the wing tip to the surface. Use superglue to glue the wing tip with rib R23 and the spar.
Until the glue has hardened, weigh down the wing tip and the surface with weights so that it lies flat on the building board together with the surface.

03 KIT

Second wing
Now build up the second wing following the same procedure.

UPPER WING SPAR

01 KIT
If you wish, you can adjust the two root ribs to accommodate the dihedral (5°) of the wing. This would close a small gap on the underside of the wings where the roots meet. Sanding machines where the angle of half the dihedral can be set are ideal but a sanding block could also be used. Only the top of the root ribs should be sanded.
The bottom edge must remain unchanged. If you are not confident enough, we recommend skipping this step as the gap is quite small.
Adjust the lengths of the joiner boxes to fit snugly between R0 and the sloping face of R8. The joiner box lies flat on the bottom spar between R1/R2 and R8.
If necessary, the GRP connector must be sanded down slightly if it does not fit into the connector sleeve or only fits with difficulty!

02 KIT
In the next four rib fields, fill in the area between the two spar chords with the spar web HS-R. The spare web is vertical and must be divided into four parts. The individual pieces are sanded at a 45° angle and glued to the lower spar with superglue. Shorten the wing joiner to suit.

03 KIT

Caution: Leftover spar material can be used to fill the gap between the two spars and the wing joiner.
Before you glue the wing joiner box, check whether the wing joiner can be pushed into the wing joiner box at a 90 degree angle towards the root rib and whether the upper wing spar can be placed over the wing joiner box. f needed rework accordingly.
Glue in the wing joiner boxes one after the other if possible. Lay one wing panel flat on the board and weigh it down.
Apply epoxy glue to the bottom wing spar and the contact points to the ribs R1 and R2. Place the wing joiner box into the wing and push the wing joiner through the root rib into the wing joiner box. Make sure that no glue gets on the joiner.
Slide the second wing panel including the wing joiner box onto the wing joiner and prop the second wing tip up so the tip is approx.
35mm above the board. To do this, cut out a 35 mm wide piece from the template for the leading edge.
Clamp the two root ribs together while the epoxy cures. Check whether the upper wing spar can rest on the ribs at all points. Particular attention must be paid to the area of the wing joiner box and the spar. If necessary, rework this area carefully.

04 KIT
The recess for the spar must now be made at the wing tip.
he gap between the spars can be closed by gluing carbon remains to the spars. Glue these carbon remains to the spars with superglue. (Roughen beforehand!) Glue the upper wing spar with epoxy glue. Make sure that the spar comes to rest in the recess of all ribs. Weigh down the spar evenly until the adhesive hardens. Fill in the gap between the wing joiner box and the stile with a little epoxy resin or an epoxy thickened resin.
The joiner box, the HS spar web and the wing spar are installed accordingly in the second half of the wing.
Check whether the four wing spars have been glued well to the ribs at every point. If needed rework accordingly.

Caution: Leftover spar material can be used to fill the gap between the two spars and the wing joiner.

CARBON FIBRE LEADING EDGE

01 KIT
Temporarily glue the 1 mm CFRP rod to the leading edge and around the wing tip with adhesive tape. Starting at rib R1. To do this, press the carbon fibre rod, starting at the root rib, into the recess of the rib leading edge. Clamp the rod in place and bend the rod around the wing tip. The carbon fibre rod should extend to the end of the wing tip and come out at the level of the trailing edge. Mark the course on the wing tip and remove the carbon fibre rod again.
Using a square file form a small indentation (approx. 0.5 mm) around the wing tip along the marking you made before. This ensures that the carbon fibre rod is correctly located and slightly recessed into the tip.
You may have to rework the transition from the last rib to the wing tip a little if the wing tip is too far forward.
Start at the root and glue the rod in place using the recesses in the rib leading edges as a guide. Use superglue and when you get to the tip tape the rod in place and bend the rod around the tip to the trailing edge. When dry remove the tape and cut off any excess rod.

KIT
Check the entire wing to see if there are any high spots or any glue residue and sand smooth.
Carefully sand the leading edge where some of the ribs slightly protrude in front of the carbon fibre leading edge rod.
Check the wing tip and carefully sand it over until it has a nice shape which blends in with the rest of the wing.

AILERONS

01 KIT
Mark the top of each aileron with a sticker so it can be identified later when re uniting with the correct wing panel.

02 KIT
On the underside of the wing draw two parallel lines on the aileron, 1 mm either side of the lasered line.
Using a scroll saw or fretsaw, cut the aileron off along the lasered line with a vertical cut through both sheets and the ribs. Keep checking above and below to make sure the cut is straight.
Proceed carefully here to prevent parts from breaking!
TIP: Pre-score the cut edge with a sharp knife and ruler. Use a fine saw blade for sawing!

03 KIT
Sand the separated aileron and the wing panel back to the line you have drawn. Make sure that the hinge line is exactly straight on the top and that both sides of the wing are exactly the same. Place the top of the aileron and wing on a hard surface with a sharp edge along the edge. Sand the V shape into the aileron and wing. Use a sanding block for this. The hinge line is on the upper surface and the aileron deflection needs to be approx. 30 ° i.e. sand a 15° angle on the wing trailing edge and the aileron leading edge. Stick the aileron to the wing with a few strips of tape and check the aileron deflection and the gap between the wing and the aileron. Adjust if necessary.

04 KIT
Now you can glue the closing strips to the trailing edge of the wing and leading edge of the aileron. These are made of 0.6 mm. Use wood glue and weigh down each part while the glue dries. After the glue has hardened, sand the protrusions flush.
To prevent the rudder from warping, let it protrude from the building board, weigh it down and then glue on the rudder locking.

05 KIT
A small amount of clearance is required between the ailerons at the root. Each aileron is sanded at the root by 2mm to create the V-shaped gap seen in the photo.

WING CONNECTORS

01 KIT
Assemble both wing panels onto the wing joiner and align the root ribs. Clamp the root ribs together so they cannot slide apart.
Drill a 3mm hole completely through the two root ribs at the markings.
Then drill the upper part of the two holes with a 6 mm drill. Be careful not to drill right through, the hole in the lower part of the root rib should remain at 3mm.

02 KIT
Separate the four GRP knots and the four GRP stops. Lightly sand the surface and glue them together with thin superglue. To do this, place a tab and a stop on top of each other and align the two parts exactly with one another. To prevent slipping you can gently press the two parts together against the building board with a small screwdriver or other tool. Put a drop of thin superglue in each of the two holes of the stop. The superglue is then sucked between the two parts and glues them together. Enlarge the fixing holes with a 3mm drill.
Coat the mating surfaces of wing connectors with Vaseline or a good release agent. Glue on the bottom side of the the wing connectors into the slots in the wing roots with epoxy. These should be orientated so the connectors slide over each other as the wing roots a brought together. Carefully push the wing halves together onto the wing joiner making sure no glue gets in between. Clamp the connector halves together with are M3 screw and nut. Align the leading edges and the trailing edges and make sure the M3 screw heads are central in the root rib recesses and leave to dry.

03 KIT
Remove the nut and screw and the panels should slide apart. Check the glue joints and add a little more glue if necessary but be sure to keep the mating faces clear of glue. No adhesive may get on the contact surfaces!

BUILDING JIG

01 KIT
Fasten the baseboard of the building jig to the building board to prevent the building jig from warping.

02 KIT
Slot the building jig together as shown in the adjacent photo. Make sure that all wooden parts are completely inserted into the base board and each other. Except for the upper part HF, everything can be glued together.

ALIGNMENT OF THE FUSELAGE

01 KIT
Slide the CFRP tube onto the fuselage, but do not glue it, and insert it into the slipway. To align the fuselage correctly in relation to the tail unit, place the upper board on the slipway, but do not glue it in place. Check that the fuselage and tail boom are correctly aligned and, if necessary, adjust the short CFRP tube on the fuselage by sanding the sides so that the tail boom fits neatly into the slipway.

CG BALANCE

01 KIT
Assemble the centre of gravity balance from the four components shown and glue them together. The curved face of the vertical frame should point downwards.

V-TAIL
TAIL UNIT

01 KIT
Separate the three Liteply wooden parts from the board and sand off the protruding retaining bars. Saw a 117 mm long piece from the end of the pine strip. The three Liteply wooden parts and the pine strip are arranged on a flat surface and glued together. Carefully measure and cut the longitudinal bar from the pine strip. This needs to be a snug fit. Glue in place when happy. Cut four 1 mm carbon fibre rods to suit. Two 1 mm carbon fibre rods are glued on top of each other in each location using superglue. Round off the leading edge and tip and gently sand any high points on the surface flush. The second half of the tail unit is built up in a similar way.

02 KIT
At the roots, sand the upper edge of the two tail unit halves with a 50 ° angle. The V-tail has an opening angle of 100 °. You can check the correct angle in the building jig.
Glue the two tail unit halves together and leave the tail unit in the building jig until the glue has hardened. Make sure the slots for the dihedral braces are clear of glue and that the tail unit does not stick to the building jig.

RUDDERVATORS

01 KIT
Detach the balsa ruddervators and sand the edges flush. The trailing edge of the ruddervators should be sanded to a thickness of approx. 1 mm. To do this more easily and precisely, you can glue a 1 mm steel wire to the rear edge with superglue. After sanding to shape, the wire can be easily cut with a knife.
Bend the two aluminium ruddervator horns to 55 ° at the marking. Make sure you bend a left and right horn as they are handed.

02 KIT
Take the ply leading edge former used to fit the wing leading edges and slot the little ply triangle into the slot. This is used to accurately align the ruddervator horns while gluing. Place the ruddervators upside down on the former.
Glue the aluminium horns into the ruddervators with epoxy resin. The ruddervator horn should be pressed firmly down to the building board and the remaining recess filled with glue. Weigh down and leave to fully dry.
Carefully sand off any excess glue. Sand a small chamfer to the leading edge to allow the down movement of the ruddervators. The rudder will later be hinged to the top.

FUSELAGE

WING FIXING

01 KIT
Glue the two ply wing seat doublers for the wing fixing screws into the fuselage pylon using fast-curing epoxy adhesive. Note this photo shows the orientation of the ply pieces. They are glued inside!
Caution: Make sure that the adhesive does not overflow so that the servo mount can be installed cleanly later.

02 KIT
Measure 15mm from the rear of the pylon and mark for a hole exactly on the fuselage centre line. Drill a 2.5mm hole through the pylon and the doubler. This is the rear wing fixing position.

03 KIT
You can use the slipway for alignment and drill the hole with a 2.5 mm drill bit.
Make sure that the hole is drilled perpendicular to the wing contact surface.

04 KIT
Cut a thread in the hole with an M3 tap. Harden the thread by running a drop of thin superglue into the thread. You may have to cut the thread again afterwards.

05 KIT
Place the assembled wing on the fuselage and fix the wing with the rear screw.
Mark the front drill hole. Make sure that the wing is aligned at right angles to the direction of flight. Measure the distance between the wing tips and the end of the attached carbon fibre tail boom and ensure it is equal for both wing tips.
Drill the front fixing pilot hole with a 2.5mm bit and cut another 3 mm thread. Don‘t forget to harden the thread.

SERVO CUTOUTS

01 KIT

NOTE:
The aileron servo installation is designed for the previously recommended servos. If you use other servos, you may need to adjust the cutouts accordingly.

02 KIT
Mark the centre of the servo access opening 39mm from the rear of the pylon. Drill and sand a 14 mm hole in the top of the pylon. You must be able to put the servo horns on through this hole and screw them tight.
The FS 135X servo can also be installed in the fuselage with the servo arms fitted. To do this, the servo arms must later be pushed out through the side slots on the fuselage using a screwdriver, for example. This eliminates the need for this hole and significantly increases the strength of the fuselage in this area.

Caution: Make sure that this opening is as small as possible so as not to weaken the fuselage unnecessarily at this point! Optionally, this hole can generally be ignored, as the servos can also be mounted WITHOUT this hole. However, this makes the installation of the servos even more complex and should only be implemented in this form if you have the appropriate motivation.

03 KIT
A slot is required in the sides of the pylon for the servo output arms to exit. These openings are approx. 16mm long and 4mm high. The top edge runs parallel to the top of the pylon and is approx. 5-5,5mm below the top of the pylon. Repeat for the other side.
Caution: Make sure that this opening is as small as possible so as not to weaken the fuselage unnecessarily at this point!

AILERON SERVO BRACKET

01 KIT
The bracket for the aileron servos is assembled from the parts shown.

02 KIT
Insert two nuts into the “S3o” part and glue them with thin super-glue and glue and then with S3a. Make sure that no adhesive gets into the thread.

03 KIT
Fit parts S3o+S3A to the servo mount using M2 screws as shown in the illustration.
Ensure the correct alignment of the parts (part number is at the top) and screw them at exactly 90° to the servo bracket S5.
Exact alignment will later determine whether the complete servo mount including servos can still be removed after gluing S3o+S3A.

04 KIT
Install the two servos (if not already done). The two servo arms must point 90° to the fuselage axis in the neutral position.

05 KIT
The removable aileron servo mount is only glued to the fuselage with the support plate S3o+S3a. At the rear end, it is supported by the carbon fiber tube, which is already glued to the fuselage. In the version without carbon fiber tube protruding into the fuselage, part S6 takes over this support and must be reworked in the area of the red marking in the picture until the bracket sits cleanly and S6 does not wobble in the fuselage.
This adjustment is unavoidable as the reinforcement of the wing support MV+MH causes large tolerances when gluing.
For the version with a longer carbon fiber tube, S6 can be generously sanded down in the area marked red, as this support has no function and makes assembly easier.
Adjust the brackets until they fit neatly in the fuselage and the servo arms are centered at 90° to the slots previously made in the fuselage.

Caution: To illustrate how the aileron servo bracket is installed a hole was cut into the side of a scrap fuselage as seen in the photo. Note – you don‘t have to do this hole!!

06 KIT
To glue S3o+S3a, we recommend attaching them to the rear of S3o in the fuselage with thick or medium-bodied superglue, then carefully unscrewing the complete servo unit after the glue has hardened (a 1.5 mm ball screwdriver is an advantage) and carefully gluing S3o to the rear and sides with epoxy resin.
Make sure that no adhesive gets onto S2, otherwise it will not be possible to remove the servo mount later.

Insert the two Bowden cable tubes into the fuselage from the rear until they come out of the canopy opening at the front. Thread the two tubes vertically through the servo bracket, one above the other. This can also be done with the servo mount already fitted in the fuselage.

Caution: Check the servo position when the canopy is closed. The servo arm must not protrude anywhere! If necessary, move the two servos closer to the center of the fuselage by relocating the mounting holes.

RUDDERVATOR SERVO BRACKET

01 KIT
Screw the two servos for the V-tail into the servo bracket. The output shafts of the servos should both be in the middle.
Push your receiver battery forwards into the fuselage as far as possible and hold the servo bracket in the fuselage as a test. If you can get the battery out again and there is enough space for the receiver and the cables, you can position the servo bracket at this point. Glue the servo mount in place with quick-setting epoxy glue. For Robbe FS 135 X Servo we recommend to set the mounting holes slightly outwards so that the servo levers do not touch the canopy.

V-TAIL SUPPORT

01 KIT
Identify and layout the parts shown in the adjacent photo. The five black support elements are glued to the 4 mm carbon fibre tube with epoxy adhesive. The three middle elements are also glued together. To do this, grind the contact surfaces. The middle three elements should have a width of 17.5 mm after gluing. If necessary, grind off any oversize BEFORE gluing in. (so that later part V1 fits exactly into the holder. Compare counterpart with V1)

02 KIT
Slide the five support elements onto the carbon fibre tube. The three elements in the middle have a groove to accommodate the tail skid. The last element is flush with the carbon fibre tube. The two GRP V-tail fixings are pushed between the first and last element and the three middle elements. These should have space in between without wobbling. Remove the GRP fixings without moving the supports. Align the five elements with each other to create a seat for the V-tail. To do this turn the assembly upside down on the building board and press down firmly.

03 KIT
Before the glue hardens, check that the space for the GRP brackets is correct and that the middle elements are close together and correctly aligned. Thoroughly remove any glue that has oozed out. If necessary, you can use a cotton swab and Acteon for this. Glue the tail skid into the groove of the three middle support elements with epoxy glue. The GRP V-tail fixings are glued into the V-tail later.

04 KIT
The V-tail is held to the tail boom with a short piece of wire and piece of the Bowden cable tube left over from the ruddervators. The wire is bent at right angles at one end so that the pin can be pulled out. It is also slightly curved so that there is minimal tension and the bolt can‘t slip out. The wire and Bowden cable tube are glued with medium viscosity superglue. Check the fit of the components and open up the hole through the assembly with a 2mm drill bit to allow the locking pin to be inserted. The V-tail GRP brackets slide between the supports and the tail is held in place by the locking pin.

TAIL BOOM

01 KIT
Thread the 6 mm carbon fibre tube onto the two Bowden cables and glue the tube to the fuselage pod with slow setting epoxy glue. Push the V-tail support onto the two Bowden cables and glue the rear support to the 6 mm fibre tube of the tail boom. Place back into the building jig while the glue dries. Align the fuselage pod horizontally with the aid of the rear. The Bowden cables can now either be glued from behind (make sure that no adhesive gets into the tube) or clamped with a piece of foam.
The Bowden cables can now either be glued from behind (make sure that no adhesive gets into the tube) or clamped with a piece of foam.

02 KIT
Place the fuselage into the building jig and make sure the components are all accurately aligned. The front edge of the V-tail support should line up with the support on the building jig. The Bowden cables should exit the tube horizontally at the rear.
The Bowden cables can now either be glued from behind (make sure that no adhesive gets into the tube) or clamped with a piece of foam.

V-TAIL BRACKET

01 KIT
Mask the top of the rear support with a layer of scotch tape to prevent glue from sticking and to compensate for the missing covering. Thoroughly coat the rear V-tail seat with Vaseline to prevent it from sticking. Insert the two GRP brackets into the rear support and secure them with the wire locking pin. This should also be rubbed with Vaseline. If necessary, carefully adjust the hole in the five support elements and the two GRP V-tail brackets to the locking pin using a 2 mm drill bit. Apply a thin coat of epoxy glue to the GRP V-Tail brackets and slide the V-tail into place. Check for correct alignment of the V-tail unit and weigh down until the adhesive hardens.

COMPLETION

COVERING

01 KIT
Before you can start with the actual covering, you must thoroughly dust all surfaces. A slightly damp cotton cloth can also be used for this purpose. Starting with the bottoms, tack the iron-on film first on selected straight lines at a moderate temperature. You can then cover the adjoining surfaces from the inside out with a gentle pull. The top is then covered. Make sure that you do not get any distortion due to excessive tension in the film.

ATTACH AILERONS AND RUDDERVATORS

01 KIT
Use clear tape to attach the two ailerons and the two VV-tail rudder-vators (on top and bottom side ensuring that full up and down movement is achieved.

V-TAIL LINKAGE

01 KIT
Cut approximately 35 mm long pieces from the end of the ruddervator control wires and make a Z-bend as tight as possible to fit the servo horns.
Position the two pieces of wire in the inner hole (6 mm) of the ruddervator servo arms from below..

02 KIT
Bend an approx. 8-10 mm long piece at right angles at the end of the wire. Push the wire into the Bowden cable tube from the rear and connect the ruddervator horns to the wire.
Fix both tail ruddervators in neutral.
Cut the linkage wire to length in the canopy opening so that it and the wire from the servo overlap by approx. 20 mm.

03 KIT
Slide a 20 mm long piece of shrink tubing over the linkage wire and glue the two pieces of wire with medium-viscosity superglue. The shrink tube is pushed over the overlap area and shrunk.
To avoid damage, take a piece of sandpaper or similar and push it behind the area to be shrunk.

AILERON LINKAGE

01 KIT
Shorten the thread of the two ball joint heads to a length of approx. 4 mm so that they don’t protrude on the other side of the aileron. Drill a 2 mm hole in the aileron about 13 mm from the centre of the wing. The ball joint is screwed into this hole and glued with epoxy glue.

02 KIT
Use offcuts from the rudder linkage for the canopy locking mechanism. The wire should be slightly longer than the canopy. Bend the wire ends slightly, sand the bonding area in the canopy slightly and glue it into the canopy using medium viscosity superglue or epoxy glue.

03 KIT
Screw the ball joint connector onto the soldering sleeve and adjust the length to suit when the wings are fitted. The ailerons should be aligned so that they are in line with the underside of the wing.

CANOPY

01 KIT
Use offcuts from the ruddervator linkage to hold the canopy in place on the fuselage.
The wire should be a little longer than the canopy. Two approximately 1 cm pieces of the Bowden cable tube are used as spacers.
Push these two Bowden cable tubes onto the wire and bend the wire ends slightly downwards. Sand the adhesive area in the canopy a little. Glue the two Bowden cable tubes into the canopy with medium-viscosity superglue. Align the wire and glue it into the two tubes with superglue as well.

RADIO INSTALLATION

01 KIT
Plug the four servo connection cables into the receiver according to the specifications of your RC transmitter system. To connect the receiver battery, we recommend plugging an extension cable into the receiver. Now place the receiver in the fuselage and fix it with some foam if necessary.

BALANCING

01 KIT
The centre of gravity is set with the balance scale included in the kit.
In strong winds, it is advisable to set the BOO slightly more noseheavy.
The centre of gravity in the specification is a recommended setting for the first flight. Once you are familiar with the model, you can adjust the centre of gravity to your liking.

R/C PROGRAMMING
SETTINGS AND FLIGHT PHASES

01 KIT
Program your RC system and, if necessary, create the desired flight phases for normal flight, thermals, etc.
Before the first start, you should always carry out a range and function test to ensure that all the controls move as desired, and that operational safety is ensured.

02 KIT
The following settings were determined during the flight testing of the original BOO. These should be used as a starting point and adjusted to suit your own flying style.

03 KIT
For the first flight tests, set the centre of gravity as shown in the plan to 39 mm from the leading edge.

RUDDER THROWS
(measured at the end rail)

▼ 4 mm
Expo 30%| ▲ +0,5 mm, Deflection:
▲ 6 mm
▼ 6 mm
Expo 30%| ▼ -1,5 mm, Mix depth
▼ Deflection like normal
▲ 6 mm
▼ 4 mm
Expo 30%
Elevator| ▲ 4 mm
▼ 4 mm
Expo 25%| ▲ 4 mm
▼ 4 mm
Expo 25%| ◄ 4 mm
► 4 mm
Expo 30%
Rudder| ◄ 4 mm
► 4 mm| ◄ 4 mm
► 4 mm| ◄ 4 mm
► 4 mm

TEST FLIGHT

For the first flight it is advisable to have a helper to launch the model for you.
Throw the BOO gently downwards and give it a short time to pick up the necessary speed. Throwing too hard or throwing upwards often leads to unsuccessful starts.
The BOO develops its performance through speed. Try to fly it faster, even in very poor conditions. As you do this, you will notice that the BOO maintains its altitude better than it does at slow speed.

DISTRIBUTOR

Robbe Modellsport
Industriestraße 10
4565 Inzersdorf im Kremstal
Austria
Phone: +43(0)7582/81313-0
Mail: info@robbe.com
UID No.: ATU69266037
„robbe“ is a registered Trademark.
Errors, misprints and technical changes reserved.

Copyright 2023
Robbe Modellsport 2023
Copy and reprint only with our permission.

Service-Address
Contact your Dealer or:
Robbe Modellsport, Industriestraße 10,
4565 Inzersdorf im Kremstal
service@robbe.com, +43(0)7582-81313-0

www.robbe.com

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