robbe Slider Q High Performance Holzbausatz Instruction Manual

BAU- UND BETRIEBSANLEITUNG INSTRUCTIONS AND USER MANUAL
MANUEL D´UTILISATION

Version Nr.: 2688
www.robbe.com

PREFACE

Congratulations on your purchase of the new SLIDER Q!
We are pleased that you have chosen a product, Made in Austria.
The SLIDER Q is a model for the ambitious pilot who is not afraid of the building effort, who brings the necessary accuracy and building experience and who appreciates the performance and strength of the model when flying.
Before starting construction, read these instructions carefully and proceed step by step during building. Then nothing unexpected can happen.
PLEASE READ THIS MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU START ASSEMBLING THE MODEL.

FLIGHT INSTRUCTIONS

• Before the first flight, observe the instructions in the „Safety Instructions“ section.
• When flying the model, you should choose a day with as little wind as possible
• A large, flat area without obstacles (trees, fences power lines etc.) is suitable for the first flights.
• Please carry out a functional test of the drive train / power set and remote control.
• After assembling the model on the airfield, check once again that all model components such as wing, tail units, wing mounts, engine, linkages, etc. are firmly and properly fastened.
• For a hand start a helper should be present, who can throw the model with enough thrust into the air.
• The start usually takes place against the wind.
• Do not stall the model near the ground
• Do not initiate tight turns in the immediate vicinity of the ground.
• Check the reactions of the model to the rudder deflections. If necessary, adjust after landing to increase or decrease the deflections accordingly.
• The minimum flight speed must be at an adequate safety altitude.
• Initiate the landing with sufficient speed

GENERAL INFORMATION

• The model is designed for the components specified by us. Unless otherwise stated, servos and other electronic components are designed for standard supply voltage. Recommended cell count for Lipo batteries also refers to standard Lipos voltage of 3.7V per cell. If you use other servos, a different motor and controller, batteries, or propellers, please make sure they fit first. In the event of deviations, corrections and adjustments must be made by yourself.
• Before starting construction, always put the servos into neutral. To do this, switch on the remote control and move the joysticks and trim buttons (save the one for the throttle) to the middle position. Connect the servos to the corresponding outputs of the receiver and supply them with a suitable power source. Please observe the connection diagram and the operating instructions of the remote control system manufacturer.
• Do not leave your model in the blazing sun or in your vehicle for long periods of time. Too high temperatures can lead to deformation/distortion of plastic parts or blistering of covering foils.
• Before the first flight, check the wing symmetry, tail unit and fuselage. All parts of the model should have the same spacing from the left and right wing or tail plane to the centre of the fuselage or the same angle.
• If necessary, rebalance the propellers if vibrations are noticeable when the motor is running up.
• Bubble formation in the covering foils normal to a certain extent due to temperature and humidity differences and can be easily eliminated with a foil iron or hairdryer.
• For models in shell construction („full GFRP/CFRP“), burrs may occur at the seams due to the production process. Carefully remove them with fine sandpaper or a file.

GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION

• Be sure to read the safety instructions carefully before operating your model.
• Always follow the procedures and settings recommended in the instructions.
• If you are using remote-controlled model aircraft, helicopters, cars or ships for the first time, we recommend that you ask an experienced model pilot for help.
• Remote-controlled models are not toys in the usual sense and may only be used and operated by young people under 14 years of age under the supervision of adults.
• Their construction and operation requires technical understanding, careful craftsmanship and safety-conscious behaviour.
• Mistakes or negligence during construction, flying or driving can result in considerable damage to property or personal injury.
• Since the manufacturer and seller have no influence on the proper construction/assembly and operation of the models, these risks are expressly pointed out and any liability is excluded.
• Propellers on aircraft and all moving parts in general pose a constant risk of injury. Avoid touching such parts at all costs.
• Note that motors and controllers can reach high temperatures during operation. Avoid touching such parts at all costs.
• Never stay in the danger area of rotating parts with electric motors with connected drive battery.
• Overcharging or incorrect charging can cause the batteries to explode. Make sure the polarity is correct.
• Protect your equipment and Models from dust, dirt and moisture. Do not expose the equipment to excessive heat, cold or vibration.
• Use only recommended chargers and charge your batteries only up to the specified charging time. Always check your equipment for damage and replace defects with original spare parts.
• Do not use equipment that has been damaged or got wet due to a fall, even if it is dry again! Either have it checked by your specialist dealer or in the Robbe Service or have it replaced. Hidden faults can occur due to wetness or a crash, which lead to a functional failure after a short operating time.
• Only the components and accessories recommended by us may be used.
• Do not make any changes to the remote control which are not described in these instructions.

SAFETY NOTE FOR MODEL OPERATION

Attention, danger of injury!

• Always keep a safe distance from your model aircraft.
• Never fly over spectators, other pilots or yourself.
• Always perform flight figures in a direction away from the pilot or spectators.
• Never endanger people or animals.
• Never fly near power lines or residential areas.
• Do not operate your model near locks or public shipping.
• Do not operate your model on public roads, motorways, paths and squares, etc., but only in approved locations.
• Do not operate the model in thunderstorms.
• Before each flight, check your remote control system for sufficient function and range.
• After flying, remove all batteries from the model.

Do not „aim“ the transmitter antenna at the model during operation. In this direction, the transmitter has the lowest radiation. The best position of the antenna is to the side of the model.
Use of devices with image and/or sound recording function:
If you equip your model with a video or image recording device (e.g. FPV cameras, action scams etc.) or the model is already equipped with such a device at the factory, please note that you could violate the privacy of one or more persons by using the recording function. An overflight or driving on private ground without the appropriate permission of the owner or approaching private ground can also be regarded as an invasion of privacy. You, as the operator of the model, are solely and fully responsible for your actions.
In particular, all applicable legal requirements must be observed, which can be found in the roof associations or the relevant authorities. Failure to comply can result in substantial penalties.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR CONTROLLERS

• Observe the technical data of the controller.
• Observe the polarity of all connection cables.
• Avoid short circuits at all costs.
• Install or package the regulator so that it cannot come into contact with grease, oil or water.
• Effective interference suppression measures on the electric motor with, for example, interference suppression capacitors
• Ensure adequate air circulation.
• Never reach into the turning circle of the propeller during start-up Risk of injury

Dealing with model aircraft and vehicles requires technical understanding and a high level of safety awareness. Incorrect assembly, incorrect adjustment, improper use or the like can lead to personal injury or damage to property. Sudden starting of connected motors can lead to injuries due to rotating parts such as propellers. Always stay away from these rotating parts when the power source is connected. All drive components should be safely and securely mounted during a function test. Use is only permitted within the scope of the technical specification and only for RC hobby applications. Before use, check that the speed controller is compatible with your drive motor or power source. Never operate the speed controller (correct speed controller) with external power supply units. Speed controllers should always be protected from dust, moisture, vibration and other mechanical stresses. Even splash-proof or waterproof equipment should not be permanently exposed to moisture or moisture. High operating temperatures or poor cooling should be avoided. The recommended temperature range should be approximately between -5°C and +50°C. Ensure proper connection and do not cause reverse polarity which would permanently damage the speed controller. Never disconnect the device from the motor or battery during operation. Use high-quality plug systems with sufficient load capacity. Avoid strong bending or tensile stress on the connecting cables. After termination of flight or driving operation, disconnect the battery to prevent deep discharge of the battery. This would cause permanent damage. For the BEC version of the controller, check that the BEC power of the device is sufficient for the servos used. Speed controllers should be installed as far away as possible from other remote control components. We recommend carrying out a range test before operation. We recommend regular checking of the controller for function and externally visible damage. Do not continue operating the controller if you notice any damage. The connection cables must not be extended. This can lead to unwanted malfunctions. Despite existing safety and protective devices of the device, damage may occur which is not covered by warranty. The warranty also expires if changes are made to the device.

Important information:
The receiver system is powered by the built-in BEC system of the controller.
For commissioning, always move the throttle stick to the „Motor off“ position and switch on the transmitter. Only then connect the battery. To switch off always disconnect the connection battery motor controller, first then turn off the transmitter. During the functional test, move the servos of the rudders to neutral position with the remote control (stick and trimming lever on the transmitter to the middle position). Please make sure to leave the throttle stick in the lowest position so that the engine does not start. For all work on to the parts of the remote control, motor or controller, follow the instructions supplied with the units. Also read the instructions of the battery and the charger carefully before commissioning. Check the engine mounting bolts in the fuselage regularly for tightness.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES

• Do not immerse the battery in water or other liquids.

• Do not heat, throw into fire or microwave.

• Do not short-circuit or charge with reversed polarity

• Do not expose, deform or throw the battery

• Do not solder directly on the battery

• Do not change or open the battery

• Only charge the battery with suitable chargers, never connect it directly to a power supply unit.

• Never charge or discharge the battery or charger on a flammable surface.

• Never leave the battery unattended during charging or discharging processes.

• Never charge or discharge the battery in direct sunlight or near heaters or fire.

• Do not use the battery in places subject to high static discharge.
  All this can cause the battery to be damaged, explode or even catch fire!

• Keep the battery away from children

• Keep leaked electrolyte away from fire, as it is highly flammable and may ignite.

• The electrolyte liquid should not get into the eyes, if it does, rinse immediately with plenty of clear water and then see a doctor.

• The electrolyte liquid can also escape from clothes and other objects with a lot of water or washed off.

• Observe the safety instructions of the battery manufacturer and the charger manufacturer.

WARRANTY

Our articles are equipped with the legally required 24 months warranty. Should you wish to assert a justified warranty claim, always contact your dealer, who is responsible for the warranty and the processing. During this time, any functional defects that may occur, as well as manufacturing or other problems, will be rectified. Material defects corrected by us free of charge. Further claims, e.g. for consequential damages, are excluded. The transport to us must be free, the return transport to you is also free. Freight collect shipments cannot be accepted. We cannot accept liability for transport damage and loss of your consignment. We recommend appropriate insurance.
To process your warranty claims, the following requirements must be met:

• Attach the proof of purchase (receipt) to your shipment.
• The units have been operated in accordance with the operating instructions.
• Only recommended power sources and original robbe accessories have been used.
• There is no moisture damage, external interference, reverse polarity, overloading or mechanical damage.
• Attach relevant information for finding the fault or defect.

DISCLAIMER

Robbe Modell sport cannot monitor compliance with the assembly and operating instructions or the conditions and methods for installation, operation, use and maintenance of the model components. Therefore, we accept no liability for losses, damage or costs arising from or in any way connected with incorrect use and operation. To the extent permitted by law, the obligation to pay damages, irrespective of the legal grounds, shall be limited directly to the invoice value of the claims arising from the event causing the damage.

INSURANCE
Ground-based models are usually covered by personal liability insurance. Additional insurance or extension is required for aircraft models. Check your insurance policy (private liability) and take out suitable insurance if necessary.

CONFORMITY
**** Robbe Modell sport hereby declares that this device complies with the essential requirements and other relevant regulations of the corresponding CE directives. The original declaration of conformity can be found on the Internet at www.robbe.com, in the detailed product view of the respective device description or on request. This product can be operated in all EU countries.

DISPOSAL

**** The sign of a crossed-out dustbin means that the product is not allowed to be disposed of with normal household waste due to certain ingredients. Dispose of the device at your local municipal collection point or recycling centre. This applies to all countries of the European Union and other European countries with a separate collection system.

BOX CONTENT – NEEDED ACCESSORIES

| Nr| Accessories needed| LF:
KIT
---|---|---|---
Motor| –| –| –
ESC| –| –| –
Battery| –| Receiver battery 2/3A 4-5 cells NiMH or Lipo (not for recommended servos without voltage
limitation)| –
Servo ELE| 9105| 1x Robbe Servo FS 166 BB MG DIGITAL| –
Servo RUD| 9105| 1x Robbe Servo FS 166 BB MG DIGITAL| –
Servo AILE| 9105| 2x Robbe Servo FS 166 BB MG DIGITAL| –
Servo FLAP| 9105| 2x Robbe Servo FS 166 BB MG DIGITAL| –
Servo cable| –| 4 x 30 cm| X
Adhesives| 5019| SPEED Sekundenkleber Set 3-teilig| –
Epoxy resin| 50600
50606| 5min ro-POXY 100g Kleber / adhesive  / colle
30min ro-POXY 200g Kleber / adhesive  / colle| –
Other| –| Wood glue| –
Other| –| Covering material| –
TX| –| channels| –
RX| –| channels| –

Declaration: Box content
Explication:  not included  included

TECHNICAL DATA

SPAN

GENERAL ABOUT THE MODEL

The slider Q is a model for the ambitious pilot who is not afraid of the building effort, who has the necessary accuracy and building experience and who appreciates the performance and strength of the model when flying.
Due to the plug-in pendulum tailplane and the 3-piece wing, the model is very easy to transport. This fact makes the model in the backpack very suitable for the excursion on the slope.
The kit and the flight characteristics are not recommended for beginners! Aileron experience in flight is necessary to be able to exploit the performance spectrum of the model. Likewise, experience in setting and using 4 flap wings should be present. The agility and also the flight speed of the model require experience in handling the aileron.
The fuselage construction and also the fuselage cross-section have been designed to accommodate selected components. Therefore, it is advisable to use the recommended components, so as not to get an unnecessary, additional tinkering effort here.
The slider Q is the glider version of the slider QE. The glider version can be flown on the slope, in the mountains or on the plain. The slider Q is launched either in a high launch with rubber or winch, or simply flitted. The strength leaves nothing to be desired and it can be achieved so to the 80m takeoff elevation.
This should usually be enough to catch thermals. Depending on the mood, you can also immediately get down the height again.
The wing profile chosen is a HQW-2.0/8. This gives the model very smooth slow flight characteristics, and can be flown very well in thermals, but also allows a sporty basic speed. With a flying weight of about 1kg, the slider Q also has a good pull-through to make appropriate progress in stronger winds on the slope. There is also the possibility to install a ballast system in the fuselage. This increases the flying weight, fully loaded, by about 150g. Due to the 4 flap wing, landings on small, short surfaces are easy to  handle. The flaps should have as much deflection as possible to allow proper braking in the butterfly position.
The wing is built completely made of wood, with pine spar and a nose planking made of 0,4mm birch plywood in three parts. The ribs stand completely on feet and thus the lower spar chord and the lower nose planking are also installed here at the same time.
However, it takes some time to get used to this method of construction, as it is not common. Precise control of the components is always necessary in order not to build in any warping. Due to the construction and the choice of materials, the wing structure can withstand loads even at higher flight speeds, which do not result in structural damage. All common aerobatic maneuvers can be flown without hesitation.
For landing, the flaps and ailerons are moved to the butterfly position. This achieves a very good braking effect and also allows quite steep, stable and slow landing approaches to be flown. Depth rudder input is absolutely necessary, otherwise the plane will „park“ itself in the air and fall uncontrolla- bly to the ground due to a stall. The instruction is structured in such a way that the building steps are presented in an understandable way for the advanced modeler. Pictures of the construction steps clarify the steps even more and hopefully leave no questions unanswered. Special tips, are highlighted visually. Special tips, are highlighted visually.

INTRODUCTION

Tools and accessories:
Balsa knife, sandpaper of 120 and 320 grit, fine saw, pins, and clothespins, weights for weighting.

Adhesives:
Medium viscosity Superglue (SG), wood glue (WG), 10min or 30min Epoxy Resin (ER)
The various adhesives are listed with their abbreviation at the individual bonding steps.

Model construction:
The laser parts still have to be removed from the carrier boards. The burn marks can be lightly sanded over for better bonding with other components. The battens are included in the kit in the required length. Thickness checks and adjustments are absolutely
necessary due to material tolerance.

The wing is built up using a template that gives the ribs the correct position. The template is pinned to the building board so that it cannot shift, the ribs are inserted into the corresponding recesses and the fun can begin. It is not necessary to build up the wing above the building plan!
This is basically built from the bottom up. The ribs must always stand with their feet on the building board, so that no warping creeps in here.
The fuselage frames with the fuselage side panels, are mortised together to obtain a warp-free and aligned superstructure. Again, the enclosed slipway helps to provide this warp-free assembly. It requires some craftsmanship, as the parts fit fairly tightly into each other. If necessary, it is sufficient to remove the burn from the laser so that the parts can be slid into each other „stressfree“.
For the construction of the tailplane, a template is also included in which the feet of the ribs are inserted. The construction method is the same as for the wing.
The wing is built up in 3-parts. In order to obtain the correct V-shape at the bends, the spar latching specifies this. The connecting ribs must then be pressed on a little or held in position. The wing connector consists of a 6mm CFRP rod. This is glued into the  attachment surface with 2K epoxy resin. The test model was covered with Oracover, according to the own color ideas. The plywood nose planking must be treated at least 3x with pore filler if it is to remain natural.
Have fun building the model!

Caution:
High-resolution images of the construction steps (PDF: „High-resolution images of the construction steps“) are available for download on the product page at: www.robbe.com

CAUTION! carry out this work with care, as it is essential for safe operation at a later date. Incorrect installation can lead to personal injury and damage to property.

FUSELAGE

Glue fuselage side parts together, aligned, over the building plan. (SG) Caution! In the following, create a right and left fuselage side part!
TIP: Apply transparent adhesive tape to the plan at the joint beforehand so that the wooden parts are not stuck to the building plan.
Glue the plywood reinforcement in the tail area to the sidewall.
(WG)
TIP: Use the openings and the frame breakthrough for precise alignment.
Glue the plywood reinforcement in the front of the fuselage to the side wall. (WG)
TIP: Use openings and the frame breakthroughs for precise alignment.
Glue the corner reinforcements made of 3mm poplar plywood to the side wall. (WG)
Glue the 3x5mm pine strips as corner reinforcement up to the tail unit. (WG)
TIP: In the drying phase, a few components will be glued together now, which will later make the process more flowing.
The fuselage nose is glued together from 6 pieces of 4mm poplar plywood. The recess in RN01, for the trim lead, can now already be completely filled with lead balls and glued together.
The HST 01 and 02 and also HST 03 to 05 high start hook backdrops get also glued together (WG).
TIP: Press the M3 nut into the recess of HST05 and secure it with super glue. Screw the high start hook into the prepared hole.
Glue the nut holder Sch01, incl. the M5 nut, together with Sch02.
(WG)
TIP: Glue the nut well with superglue and possibly secure it with a remnant piece of 0.4mm plywood.
Assemble the bulkhead frame from R4 to R6 with the screw counter bearing Sch02 in a dry fit and check the accuracy of fit. Now insert Sch03 from above to secure the frame.
TIP: If necessary, slightly oversand the thickness of the vertical formers to make them fit more easily into the recesses of the hori- zontally positioned plywood formers.
Assemble and glue the rudder mount incl. spur and former R9 – R9, R10, R11 and R12. (SG)

Check the bowden cable bushings in the frames with a 2mm drill and widen them if necessary. Insert the former – R2 with the servo board – and the remaining formers as well as the fuselage end with the fin mount into a fuselage side wall. The thickness of the pine bar on the fuselage side wall should be aligned with the opening in R11. After inserting the frames, also thread in the bowden cables (before putting on the second fuselage side panel).

Caution: Cut the tailplane linkage rod to length just after frame R9 and at frame R2. Feed the wire for the rudder linkage out through the slot in the fuselage side wall. Make sure the bend is smooth so that the wire is guided with little friction.
Insert the auxiliary bulkhead for the spring contact FK01 into the fuselage side wall as well.
Then place the second fuselage side panel on the formers and dry align the fuselage.
Slight reworking of the openings or the pins can make the assembly much easier. Now use the 3mm poplar plywood slipway for straight alignment and insert the fuselage frame into the slipway frame.

Caution: Only when everything fits and is aligned straight, glue in place with superglue.

Glue the fuselage bottom parts together over the building plan – RB1 to RB7 (WG).
TIP: Apply adhesive tape to the plan beforehand so that the wooden parts are not stuck to the building plan.

Glue the high start hook insert (HST01 with HST02) onto the bottom part (WG).

Glue frame R1 (WG).
Check the span opening with the planned receiver battery. If necessary, rework the opening slightly so that the battery really fits through.

Glue the R2-1 frame reinforcement to the R2 frame on the cabin side. (WG)

Screw the fuselage servos (e.g. FS166 BB MG) into the servo board and prepare the planned wiring for the spring contact connector and route it in the fuselage – under the battery board.

Glue the glued fuselage bottom RB1-RB7 in place. Align the rear of the fuselage end flush or over the slot for the tail. (WG) Also check the depth jump, at the level of former R4.
TIP: Grind the contact surface flush beforehand.
Glue on the rear upper fuselage cover. (WG)
Caution: Grind the contact surface flush beforehand.
FUSELAGE COVER
Glue the canopy cover – KD01 with KD02. Glue the doubling KD03, centered and aligned on KD01. (WG)
Glue KD04.1 onto KD04.
Caution: The slot in KD03 and KD04.1 must be flush, without a crack. The locking mechanism will be glued in here afterwards.

As a final step, KD03.1 and KD04.2 are glued to the underside of the guide rail.

On the top side, the slots are closed with 2mm offcut pieces of balsa and ground flush.
Likewise, the slot reinforcement made of 0.4 plywood is still glued on here.

TIP: Shorten the guide tube if necessary. Likewise, shorten the steel wire a little later if it protrudes above the cover alignment when unlocked.
The glued counter bearing (KD04) is ground to a point on the underside on the wing side. This ensures that the wing fits better into the recess later on.
The counter bearing is now glued to the fuselage, and aligned with the cover. (WG)
KD05 will now be glued on in the nose area. (WG)
The fuselage cover is used as a spacer in the process.
Sand the front of the fuselage flush at frame R1 and glue the prepared nose component in place.
(WG)
The fuselage is now pre-finished. The further disassembly is described further back in the manual.
A first grinding run can now be done to bring the contours into the correct shape.

TAIL UNIT – ELEVATOR

The parts of the elevator are quite small and fine. Therefore, please handle with care here and build accurately.
Fix the elevator template to the building board so that it cannot slide.

Insert the ribs – HLW2 to HLW10 – into the prepared openings of the template.
Caution: The feet must lie flat on the building board. If the feet do not sit tightly enough in the template, they can also be glued down.

Carefully slide the lower nose planking into the slots in the ribs and align it so that the planking sits flush with the start and end ribs. Fit the spar belt/rib comb – HLW12 – onto the ribs from above and press it down to the bottom planking. (WG)

Caution: Ribs with comb are subsequently glued with superglue.

Now glue the lower planking individually to the ribs with superglue.

TIP: Use your fingers to lightly press the planking to the ribs and wait for the superglue to holds it in place.

Slide the bottom end strip – 0.4mm plywood – into the prepared slot from behind.

TIP: The bends indicate or suggest the correct position.
Glue HLW15 to the trailing edge, on the ribs. (WG)

Auxiliary leading edge – HLW11 – insert and glue in place. (WG)

Plug-in tubes – CFRP – push in and glue in place. (SG)

Caution: Do not forget the overhang for the cover rib (approx. 1mm)!
Insert and glue the supports – HLW13-1 to HLW13.3 – between the spar comb and the front plug-in tube. (SG)

Grind auxiliary leading edge following the rib contour.
Glue the top planking – 0.4mm plywood. (WG)
Sand the planking flat with the auxiliary leading edge and glue the leading edge – balsa 4x7mm. (WG)
Grind the leading edge and planking flush with the end rib HLW10 and glue on the edge strip. (WG)

Carefully grind the planking and leading edge flush with the first rib HLW2 and glue on the cover rib HLW1. (WG)
After the glue has dried, the tail plane half can be freed from the feet and detached.

The elevator is pre-finished and can be sanded.
The elevator can be covered already afterwards.

Caution: Keep checking the leading edge with the enclosed templates. Sand the end strip flush except for the lower planking and the ribs on the upper side.

RUDDER – MECHANICAL PART

Glue together the tail fin end strip of balsa – plywood – balsa. (WG)
Glue the remaining tail fin together over the building plan with the corresponding parts. (WG)

Mechanical Part:
Glue the CFRP reinforcement into the 0.8mm plywood part (SG).
Press ball bearings into the CFRP reinforcement – from the inside to the outside – make left and right side!

Mechanical Part:
Glue a plywood doubling with the ball bearing installed, onto the 4mm poplar plywood component.
Insert the pendulum rudder lever into the ball bearing and into the rear guide slot.

Mechanical Part:
Place the other plywood doubling with the ball bearing, check for smooth running and glue it on as well.

Caution: Mechanical Part:
The centric-central alignment of the lever is checked by the central protrusion, at the bottom, from the mechanism component.

Due to material tolerances, it can happen that not everything fits together here as smoothly as it should. A possible solution is documented in the RC- Networkforum. Now glue the mechanical part and the rest of the tail fin together. To align the deck ribs – 1.5mm FLZ – glue corresponding 2mm rods into the tail fin holes.
TIP: Wooden toothpicks can be used for this part. Do not glue on the top ribs until the tail fin has been foiled. Foiling is much easier than with the deck ribs glued on.

Grind the toothpick and the protruding CFRP tube flush with the rib.
Then cut out the bar that covers the guide slot.
TIP: Now the elevator can be attached to the fin for the first time.
The elevator pins – CFRP rod – are still to be sanded to size – with a 320 sandpaper it works very well.
The rudder is built as a sandwich, in balsa -plywood – balsa.

The ribs of the rudder can be glued back in place with glue. Now sand the rudder to form a „triangle“. The center plywood insert sets the minimum here at the end strip, which also forms a pressure-resistant end edge. A wedge is made at the rudder nose.

The tail fin is rounded at the nose – ellipsoidal – and the transitions are simply ground flat in their thickness so that no steps are noticeable.

The fleece hinges are split in the middle, resized and inserted into the prepared slots, glued into the fin on one side. (SG)
The rudder lever will be glued in place after foiling. However, it is already adjusted now.
Once the rudder has been sanded, it can also be foiled.
Aligned with the fuselage, the tailplane is now reinserted in the fuselage slipway!
This is how the current result should looks now.

WING – CENTER MAIN WING

Glue together the lower and upper spar belts from 2×8 and 2x3mm pine strips over the construction plan.
Caution: After curing, be sure to check the height of the belt and grind it down to 2mm if necessary!

Pin the rib template to the building board.
TIP: It is not necessary to do this over the building plan, otherwise you will deprive yourself of the view of the drawing.

Release the ribs and all other necessary components, clean the lasered slots for the planking with a scrap piece of the 0.4mm plywood. After that, the ribs should be inserted into the template at the suitable position. Rib 14 will have a slight inclination of 2° due to the spar splice installed later. This must be taken into account when gluing to the lower spar chord, the plug-in sleeve and the upper spar chord! – see also page 33

TIP: The pre-lasered break lines of the feet should be fixed with super glue so that the feet do not break off in the course of the wing buildup. Then insert the ribs into the template at the correct position.

Push the straw/cable guide into the prepared openings of the ribs and staple it in place. Then position rib no.15 on the template.

Thread the lower spar belt from below and „clip“ it into the rib recess.

TIP: Do this with care but with a little force. Press the ribs onto the building board again and again to check that they are seated correctly.
Insert the lower nose plating into the prepared slot with care and sensitivity.

Caution: Take care of an exact alignment with the end ribs! This may take a few minutes. Do not throw away your nerves. If ribbed feet break, be sure to glue them back on!
If everything is seated correctly, the spar chord can now be glued to the lower planking. (SG) TThe ribs are not glued to the lower spar chord until they have been precisely aligned by the spar splice/rib comb!
Insert rib no.12 and align and fix it with component D0.

Slide the rear bottom planking into the ribs, align (with the 3mm poplar end trim/rudder stop trim) and glue in place. (SG)

Glue together central rib block from rib no.1 and 3x no.1a. (WG)
After the adhesive has cured, place this block on the lower spar belt, align it (with the spar latch) and glue it in place. (WG)

Caution: The recess for the GRP nose part in the lower planking should be exactly centered between ribs No.1! The GRP nose will be glued in later, engaging in the chip opening in the fuselage of R2.

Insert end rail/rudder stop rail – 3mm poplar – and glue in place.
Glue rib pieces no.1b in the end strip area to rib no.2 and to the bottom planking.

Glue in the FL-SCH screw reinforcement. (WG)
Glue auxiliary ribs no.2a to the bottom planking using 0.4mm plywood offcuts. (WG)

Glue upper end rail planking – 2mm balsa – to the ribs and to the rudder stop rail. (WG)

Sand the flap auxiliary leading edge to a wedge shape and then slide it in diagonally from above and glue it in place.
TIP: The lasered line serves as orientation.

The beveling of the top of the bar can also be done later.
TIP: Here, a painter‘s masking tape (masking tape) is applied as a sanding protection for the ribs.

Glue the servo frame together – note the left and right sides!
Then insert into the prepared recesses at rib no.6 and 7 and staple in place. (SG)

Slide the rib comb/spar splice – 4mm cottonwood – into the ribs from the top to the lower spar chord. After checking the accuracy of fit, glue in place. (WG)

Caution:
Grind off the burn-off. The comb should be flush with the upper spar web recess of the ribs or have some undersize!

Grind, insert and staple the mating sleeves – 7/6mm brass tube. (SG)
Pay attention to the required inclination of rib 14!

Caution:
Do not forget the overhang for the cover rib!

Glue in the front and rear mating splices – 0.8mm FLZ plywood – while inserting the spar strap as an upper spacer. (WG)
Caution: Pay attention to the inclined position of the end ribs! – Vposition in the mating area.
Rib 14 – 4mm poplar – must be glued to the slanted chamfer edge.
This is the only way to get the necessary inclination of the rib for the V-shape at the bend.
Double up the spar in the center area with the 3mm poplar wood pieces between the ribs. (WG)
Caution: Under no circumstances should the belt protrude over the rib contour, as this would create a wave with the planking and distort the profile.
Fill the mating area with epoxy resin.
Glue the upper spar belt in place after checking the thickness. (WG or ER)

Now glue the bottom planking to the ribs, rib by rib, using super glue.
TIP: Reach under the wing with one hand and press the planking to the ribs carefully so that the ribs are not pushed out of the template.

Now glue the corner reinforcement D0 into the ribs 12, 13 and 14. (WG)

Glue the auxiliary leading edge – 3mm poplar – to the ribs and bottom planking. (WG)
Sand the upper side of the auxiliary leading edge true to profile and flush with the ribs.
TIP: Mask the upper edge of the ribs here again with masking tape.

Glue in supplementary ribs no. 7a and 7b, in the area of the rudder lever. (SG)
TIP: Use the rudder lever as a spacer if necessary.

Glue on upper rudder planking. (WG)
Caution: Make sure that the screw opening is exactly centered!
To avoid a wavy end strip, the planking is best weighted down with weights.

Gluing on the upper surface planking. (WG)
Glue on flap shaft cover. (WG)
After the glue has cured, sand the planking on the leading edge flush with the auxiliary leading edge strip and glue on the actual leading edge strip – 5x8mm balsa. (WG)

The wing can now be taken off the feet.
Now cut off the flap rudders, flush against the stop bar.
Sand the rib protrusions on the rudder flush with the „auxiliary leading edge“ and then glue on the actual leading edge – 0.8mm FLZ. (WG)

Pull in wing wiring and position servo connector in rib no.15 and set flush with the outside of deck rib no.15a.
Caution: Roughen the plug and glue it in carefully. (SG)
Adding the lower planking in the mating area. (WG)

Install the flap servo in the frame (adjust slightly if necessary) and run the wiring in the straw to the central plug socket.

Stick foil support strips FAL into the recesses.
Caution: The servo shaft is then subsequently closed with a rectangular piece of foil.

Install the mounting plate for the spring contact board – STK 01 and STK 02 – in the surface. (SG)
Solder the spring contact board to the cables.
Caution: + and – are each soldered together on a „circuit board“. The impulse lines each get their own contact.

Then push the cables back into the wing that there is room for the connector board in the mounting plate. Finally, this also looks over the wing planking in this area.

Glue the planking piece together from the two individual parts on the building board and then glue it to the wing. (WG)
Caution: The board should now be maximally flush with the planking in the surface plane!

Glue on the deck ribs at the rudders and surface no.15a. (WG)
Screw Click-Fix into the prepared hole until the surface is flush with the cover rib.
TIP: Secure with superglue if necessary.

The wing centre piece is now ready for finishing and can be sanded.
Always check the leading edge with the enclosed template or assemble and use the sanding aid!

LEFT &RIGHT WING

Glue together the aileron subframe from 4mm cottonwood and 1.5mm plywood – note right and left sides!
Glue ribs 28 together.
Caution: Attention! Align with the spar recess!

Glue rib no.31 and 32 together.
Caution: Align with the rear recess of the top planking!
Glue together the edge arch parts RB1 and RB2.
Glue the spar belt together from 2x5mm and 2x3mm pine over the construction plan.
Caution: After curing, be sure to check the height of the belt and, if necessary, sand it down to 2mm!!

Assemble the rib template and fix it back onto the building board.
Detach all necessary components, clear the slots of the ribs with a scrap piece of 0.4mm plywood.
Position the ribs (16 to 32) in the template.
Insert the previously glued servo frames into the rib recesses (between rib 21 and 22) and tack them in place. (SG)

Fit and staple together the edge arch area, with the 1.5mm plywood stiffening panel, ribs no.32 and no.33.

Insert the straw into the ribs no.17 to no.20 and staple it in place.
When gluing the following parts, pay attention again to the necessary inclination of rib 16!
The inclined position is again specified with the spar latch to be installed later.

Slide the rear lower rudder planking into the prepared rib slot and glue it in place. (SG)

Insert and glue lower edge arch planking at the edge arch. (SG)
Clip the lower spar belt into the rib recess.
TIP:
Possibly adjust the length of the belt beforehand.

Carefully and with feeling push the lower nose planking of the surface into the prepared slot of the ribs until it stops.
When everything is exactly aligned and fits into each other without tension, glue the spar flange and the bottom planking together. (SG)
Caution: Pay attention to the exact alignment of the planking, especially at the deck rib!

Push the round stop bar and the spar locking comb onto the ribs from above and align the ribs with them. The rudder stop bar can now also be glued at the same time. (WG)

Grind the auxiliary rudder leading edge according to the markings or as shown in the photo, push it into the recesses from above and glue it in place.
Caution: Make sure that the top of the slat is flush with the ribs

Glue upper end strip planking EL on the wing – 2mm balsa – to the ribs and to the rudder stop strip. (WG)
Glue in additional ribs no. 22a and 22b in the area of the rudder lever. (SG)

Glue on upper rudder planking. (WG)
TIP: Weigh down the rudder end strip with an additional strip flat and with weights, so that a straight end strip is the result.

Glue on upper edge arch planking. (WG)

Push the spar bracing comb onto the ribs from the top to the lower spar belt and glue it in place. (WG)
Caution: Grind off the burn-off from the laser. The rib crest must then be flush with the upper edge of the ribs at the most.
Spar bracing – 2mm balsa – glue in from rib no.28 to rib no.31 – edge bow area. (WG)
Grind the 6mm CFRP plug-in rod and push it into the prepared opening and staple it in place. (SG)
Front and rear connector junction – 0.8mm plywood – glue in place.
(WG) Pay attention to the required inclination of rib 16!
Caution: Use the upper spar flange as a spacer and be sure to glue rib 16 to the latch – V-shape!
Fill the mating area with epoxy resin and then glue in the upper spar flange straight away.
Caution: The belt must not be flush with the upper edge of the ribs. If necessary, sand the belt over again before gluing it in place!
Now glue the lower planking rib by rib, with light pressure against the rib with super glue. (SG). Try screwing the Click-Fix into rib 16. It makes sense to glue a doubling on the inside of the rib (leftover piece of 4mm poplar) so that the Click-Fix is fully threaded in the wood.

Glue in corner stiffeners D1 (at the root) and D2 (at the edge arch). (WG)
TIP: D2 here in the picture was unfortunately glued in afterwards. The doubling for the Click-Fix can also be seen here.
Glue the auxiliary nose strip to the plywood stiffener at the edge bow. (WG)
Caution: Pay attention to the correct fit! The higher, wider end goes to rib no.31. The additional web at spar chord height is for additional stiffening of the upper planking and is to be made of balsa pieces.

Glue remaining auxiliary leading edges – 3mm cottonwood and 2mm balsa. (WG)

Sand the upper side of the auxiliary leading edge flush with the profile and ribs.

Glue on the upper nose planking of the surface. (WG)
Caution: Planking joint exactly in the center of rib no.28!
Glue on upper aileron shaft cover. (WG)
After curing, sand the planking with the auxiliary leading edge and the end rib flat. Then glue the edge arch components RB1 and RB2 and the leading edge strip. (WG)

The wing can now be taken off the feet. Screw the servo (FS166BB MG) into the servo frame.
TIP: Possibly adjust the frame a little so that the servo fits in. The aileron is also cross-steered. The pictures show the servo arm in the neutral position.

Thread the cable through the straw and solder the enclosed connector and glue it into rib no.16. (WG)
Caution: Consider cover rib no. 15b!

Torsion bar – 3mm CFRP – glue in place.
Caution: Beforehand, check again the correct surface transition – angel of setting – at the connection with the center part!
Glue on cover rib no.15b. (thickened WG)
TIP: The best way to do this is to pin the surface to the middle part so that the gap between the cover ribs is kept as small as possible.
Bottom planking – 0.4mm plywood – glue in the mating area. (WG)
Stick the FAL foil support into the prepared recesses. (SG)
Caution: The servo shaft is also closed here only with a piece of foil.

The Click-Fix is now screwed into the prepared hole. The exact length is then determined and adjusted by plugging the middle part together several times.
The surface parts are separated with the enclosed plastic wedge.

Separate the aileron from the wing at the stop bar.

Sand the overhanging ribs on the rudder flush with the auxiliary leading edge. Then glue on the deck strip – 0.8mm plywood.

The rudder lever is glued in place after foiling. The fit is now checked.

The other side of the wing shall be done in the same way.
The wing is now ready for final sanding.
A test fit on the fuselage is now also possible. Rework the fits if necessary and check the wing alignment for a right-angled fit on the fuselage.
If everything is to your satisfaction, it‘s now time for the …

WING – COVERING

In principle, the upper and lower surfaces are covered separately.
Depending on whether the planked wing leading edge is also to be covered, the foiling is limited to the open rib panels. In this case, the plywood nose must be coated at least 3 times with pore filler to make it somewhat water- repellent.
For the fuselage, each side of the fuselage is covered individually.
For the curves, the temperature of the iron must be increased, otherwise it will be a wrinkly affair.
(for my iron, increase to level 2.5 to 3).
Color changes on the surface work best over a rib with an overlap of at least 5 mm. Here, great importance must be attached to a full-surface bonding of the film on the rib in order to be able to properly bond the films together.

FOIL HINGE – this works as follows:
The aileron is folded onto the wing as if a deflection upwards of 150° were possible.
The fence strip and the rudder leading edge now form a line and a plane so that a strip of iron-on film can be applied (white in the picture).
Once this is done, the rudder is folded down. On the upper side of the wing, the foil is now ironed onto the wing and the rudder in one go.

In the best case, a small „rudder gap“ is created at the rudder nose strip where the foil from the foil strip ironed on at the bottom sticks to the foil ironed on at the top and thus forms the pivot axis/ hinge axis.

The rest of the underside of the wing will be completed separately.

The same procedure is used for the flap. However, since this is hinged at the bottom, the rudder flap is folded onto the underside of the wing.

COMPLETION

Insert the GRP nose into the wing center section, check the fit on the fuselage again and then glue it in place (ER).
TIP: If necessary, glue 2 pieces of 0.4mm plywood left and right in the recess so that the GRP nose is centered and slightly pinched in.

Spring contact at fuselage-surface transition
The board is installed in the wing, in the recess provided on the underside of the wing. The spring contact strip goes into the fuselage, between the formers FK01 + FK 02.

Fuselage assembly: The spring contact strip is installed in the fuselage formers FK01 + FK02. Here in the picture it is still upside down! (Must be turned by 180°) Same procedure as for the wing.
Caution: Plus and minus cables are connected to the edge pins, the signal cables in between. Be sure to match the plus and minus sides with the wing!

Tail unit assembly

• Remove the film from the glued areas
• Fuselage is placed in the slipway
• Place the rudder on the fuselage, attach/thread in the elevator linkage and check the perpendicularity with the wing centre section mounted. (WG or ER).
• Attach the tail plane and check again all angles to each other. (90° angle to the rudder and parallelism to the wing).
• Glue the rudder to the fuselage (WG or SG)

Fuselage Servos
Screw the servos (e.g. Robe FS166BB MG) into the fuselage.

Rudder:

• Solder clevis with soldering sleeve onto the rudder bowden cable wire and thread it from the rudder into the bowden cable sleeve.
• Screw the enclosed ball heads onto the servo arm in the neutral position.
• Mark the exact length of the Bowden wire and shorten the wire.
• Roughen the wire well and put on the soldering sleeve with the ball head. When the length fits, solder/glue onto the wire.

Elevator
– Solder the soldering sleeve with the ball head on the servo side or glue it to the well roughened steel wire with super glue.
Neutral position – elevator = specifies the rib formation!!!
The remote control is then used to programme the required servo movement.

Wing servos
The flaps (FS166 BB MG) and the ailerons (FS166BB MG) are crosshatched.
Set the already installed servos to the neutral position with the servo tester and check for functionality. Adjust the rudder linkage to the required length using the prepared clevises and M2 threaded rod.
For the flap linkage, the servo-side clevis must be ground out so that it does not touch the servo and the full servo travel is possible! Likewise, the servo frame must be ground out in the area of the linkage – see construction plan – so that more downward  deflection of the linkage is possible.
The clevis is mounted at the 2nd or 3rd servo hole.

Aileron linkage:
The servo arm must be at a 90° angle to the linkage, in the neutral position! Only in this way is it possible to achieve the same upward and downward deflections.

Here the servo shaft is already closed with a piece of foil. For the servo arm a small hole in the foil had to be taken into account in order not to impair the reset accuracy.

Flap linkage: (old-school installation with wooden blocks and retaining bridge possible)
The rudder zero position is set by off-set via the system! The picture shows the servo arm in this zero position.

For the flap servo shaft no opening for the servo arm is necessary.
The surface is thick enough here. The shaft is closed again with a piece of foil.

COMPLETION – BALANCING

Adjust the rudder deflections according to the table below.

▼ 10 mm
▲ 1 mm  from neutral| ▲ 15 mm
▼ 10 mm
▼ 1 mm  from neutral| ▲ 18 mm
Elevator| ▲ 10 mm
▼ 10 mm| ▲ 10 mm
▼ 10 mm| ▲ 10 mm
▼ 10 mm| ▲ 10 mm
▼ 10 mm
Rudder| ◄ 18 mm
► 18 mm| ◄ 18 mm
► 18 mm| ◄ 18 mm
► 18 mm| ◄ 18 mm
► 18 mm
Flaps| ▲ 0 mm
▼ 0 mm| ▲ 3 mm
▼ 0 mm| ◄ 18 mm
► 18 mm| ▲ 0 mm
▼ 45 mm  Mix in low rudder  ca. 100 -120%

For the first flight tests, set the center of gravity as shown in the plan to 90mm from the leading edge with the positioning of the receiver battery and possibly additional trim lead. With this center of gravity position, the slider is very neutral. It flies with only a slight interception arc when you stab it.

ACCESSORIES

Receiver battery 2/3A 4-5 cells NiMH or Lipo (not for recommended servos
without voltage limitation)| –| 1

RECOMMENDES SUPPLIES

SPARE PARTS

TEST FLIGHT

All rudders in neutral position!
Centre of gravity adjusted to the previously mentioned position!
Check rudder deflection in the steered direction!
Right aileron deflection – right rudder up, left rudder down.
Elevator deflection – end bar of the elevator moves upwards.
Rudder deflection right/left – rudder moves in the respective direction
Hand launch:
Launch the model on a slightly sloping or flat meadow with a slight swing,
horizontally from the hand, exactly against the wind. The model should perform a straight glide of approx. 60 to 70m without much correction.
After landing, make any trim corrections and repeat the hand launch until a straight steady glide is achieved.
Now the glider can be flown on any slope, or launched on the ground with a high launch set.
Due to the previously made glide/trim flights, you can now fully concentrate on the climb flight in the high start. Depending on the preset high start hook position, the model climbs away at a flatter or even too steep angle.
If the angle is too shallow, the high start hook has to be moved further back.
If the angle is too steep, it has to be moved further forward.
In practice, a position of 5mm in front of the C.G. position has proven successful.
To test the effect of the butterfly position, however, you should have a few metres of air under the wings so as not to experience any unpleasant surprises or risk a possible breakage of the model. Adjust the model in such a way that it performs a stable, even descent on its own and that the airspeed does not increase significantly, but also that there is no stall due to insufficient airspeed.
We wish you a lot of fun and success with your further flights with the SLIDER Q!

DISTRIBUTOR
Robe Modell sport
Industriestraße 10
4565 Inzersdorf im Kristal
Austria
Phone: +43(0)7582/81313-0
Mail: info@robbe.com
UID No.: ATU69266037
„robe Modell sport“ is a registered Trademark.
Errors, misprints and technical changes reserved.
Copyright 2023
Robe Modell sport 2023
Copy and reprint only with our permission.
Service-Address
Contact your Dealer or:
Robbe Modellsport, Industriestraße 10,
4565 Inzersdorf im Kristal
service@robbe.com, +43(0)7582-81313-0
www.robbe.com

References

• Robbe Modellsport - Offizielle Markenwebsite und Shop

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