Introduction

Thank you for purchasing this Team Associated product. This assembly manual contains instructions and tips for building and maintaining your new vehicle. Please take a moment to read through this manual to help familiarize yourself with these steps.
We are continually changing and improving our designs; therefore, actual parts may appear slightly different than in the illustrations. New parts will be noted on supplementary sheets.
KIT Features

• Updated Mid Motor Rear Carbon Fiber Shock Tower for Oval
• New Carbon Fiber Chassis Side Braces
• Updated Rear Toe Block for Dirt Oval Racing
• Aluminum 12mm big bore coil-over shock absorbers
• Durable and lightweight aluminum top shaft
• New Mid Motor Low center-of-gravity G10 Fiberglass chassis with updated O-Ring battery straps that accommodate 2S LiPo Shorty battery packs
• Rear CVA drive shafts for more reliability
• 2.6:1 ratio gearbox with heavy-duty sealed gear differential and externally adjustable slipper clutch
• Rugged steel turnbuckles for adjustable camber and front toe-in
• Adjustable suspension geometry
• Vertical ball ends for roll center adjustments, front and rear
• Metric hardware throughout
• 22 precision rubber-sealed ball bearings
• Impact-absorbing front and rear bumpers
• Fully Adjustable front and rear body mounts
• Impact-absorbing front bumper
• Many Factory Team options already available!

Other Helpful Items

• Silicone Shock Fluid (Refer to website for complete listings)
• Tire Adhesive (AE #1597)
• FT Universal Tire Balancer (#1498)
• Calipers or a Precision Ruler
• FT Dual Turnbuckle Wrench (#1114)
• Soldering Iron
• Body Scissors (AE #1737)
• Shock Pliers (AE #1681)
• FT Ballcup Wrench (#1579)
• Wire Cutters / Hobby Knife
• Reamer / Hole Punch (AE #1499)
• Green Slime shock lube (AE #1105)
• FT Hex/Nut Wrenches (AE Part #1519, 1650)
• Needle Nose Pliers

Hardware

This symbol indicates a special note or instruction in the manual.
This symbol indicates a Racers Tip.
There is a 1:1 hardware foldout page in the front of the manual. To check the size of a part, line up your hardare with the correct drawing until you find the exact size. Each part in the foldout has a number assigned to it for ordering replacement parts. Do not overtighten steering bolts. Make sure there is free movement in the steering rack. Add a drop of Black Grease (#6588) to the teeth of the dif f gear, idler gears, and top shaft. Note the difference between the inner and outer slipper hubs when installing. Racers Tip: Use black grease (#6588) on the threads of the turnbuckles for easier ball cup installation!
Orient the notch to the left throughout the to the left throughout the car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads! car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads! Racers Tip: Use black grease (#6588) on the threads of the turnbuckles for easier ball cup installation!
Orient the notch to the left throughout the car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads! Orient the notch to the left throughout the car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads! Racers Tip: Use black grease (#6588) on the threads of the turnbuckles for easier ball cup installation!
Orient the notch to the left throughout the car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads! Racers Tip: Coating the o-rings with green slime (#1105) helps seal & reduce o-ring swell! Green slime not included in kit!
Shock Bleeding Steps:

1. Pull shock shaft down.
2. Fill shock body 3/4 full with silicone fluid.
3. Slowly move the shock shaft up and down to remove air from under piston.
4. Wait for bubbles to come to surface.
5. Fill shock body to top with silicone fluid.
6. Place a drop of oil in the cap and on Fill shock body to top with silicone fluid. cap threads.
7. Install cap and tighten completely.
8. Slowly compress shaft all the way to the top. If there is pressure at the top of the stroke, there is too much oil or air. You must bleed it out.
9. Slowly pull shaft out.
10. Unscrew the cap 3/4 turn and tilt the shock at a slight angle.
11. Slowly compress the shaft to push out excess oil and air. You should see bubbles coming out from under the cap.
12. With the shaft compressed, tighten the cap and re-check for pressure at the top of the stroke. If there is still pressure, repeat steps 9 thru11.

Clean the tire and wheel bead. Carefully apply CA glue (tire adhesive) to the tire bead on both sides. Do one side at a time, allow it to dry before gluing the other side! CA glue not included!

Tuning Tips

Painting:
You will need to prep the clear polycarbonate body before you can paint it.
Wash the INSIDE thoroughly with warm water and liquid detergent (do not use any detergents with scents or added hand lotion ingredients!). Dry the body using a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. Use the supplied window masks to cover the windows from the INSIDE of the body (RC cars get painted on the inside). Using high quality masking tape, apply tape to the inside of the body to create a design. Spray (use either rattle can or airbrush) the paint on the inside of the body (preferably dark colors first, lighter colors last). NOTE: ONLY use paint that is recommended for (polycarbonate) plastics. If you do not, you can destroy the body! After the paint has completely dried (usually after 24 hours), cut the body along the trim lines. Make sure to drill or use a body reamer to make the holes for the antenna if needed! Use hook and loop tape to secure the body to the side rails of the vehicle.
Tips for Beginners:
Before making any changes to the standard setup, make sure you can get down the track without crashing. Changes to your vehicle will not be beneficial if you can’t stay on the track. Your goal is consistent passes. Once you can get down the track consistently, start tuning your vehicle. Make only ONE adjustment at a time, testing it before making another change. If the result of your adjustment is a faster pass, mark the change on the included setup sheet (make adddtional copies of the sheet before writing on it). If your adjustment results in a slower pass, revert back to the previous setup and try another change. When you are satisfied with your vehicle, fill in the setup sheet thoroughly and file it away. Use this as a guide for future track days or conditions. Periodically check all moving suspension parts. Suspension components must be kept clean and move freely without binding to prevent poor and/or inconsistent handling.
Rear Arm Mount Pill Insert Setup:
The aluminum rear arm mounts utilize eccentric pill inserts to make fine adjustments to anti-squat, toe, pin heights, and pin width. Adjustments can be made using the supplied inserts (#92014)
Standard Position
Use this position as a reference when changing pill locations.
Toe: 0.5°
Anti-squat: 2.5°
Roll Center: 0.0°
Pivot Width: 0.0° Additional toe settings are achievable using option part

72011 DR10 Aluminum rear hubs. Insert Hole Locations

Number indicates degree of change: 0.5°, 1.0°, 0° (center dot)
Hole 0.5° or 0.35mm from center Hole 1.0° or 0.7mm from center
Toe Angle
More angle = More toe in
Less angle = Less toe in
Shown in 1° changes Anti-squat Angle
More angle = More anti-squat
Less angle = Less anti-squat
Shown in 1° changes Motor Gearing:
Proper motor gearing will result in maximum performance and run time while reducing the chance of overheating and premature motor failure. The gear ratio chart lists recommended starting gear ratios for the most widely used motor types. Gear ratios will vary depending upon motor brand, wind, and electronic speed control. Consult your motor and electronic speed control manufacturers for more information. Team Associated is not responsible for motor damage due to improper gearing.
Gear Ratio Chart (Internal Gear Ratio 2.60:1)

* Optional spur gear / pinion used
Set The Gear Mesh:
You should be able to rock the spur gear back and forth in the teeth of the pinion gear without making the pinion gear move. If the spur gear mesh is tight, then loosen the motor mounting screws and move the motor away, then try again.
A gear mesh that is too tight or too loose will reduce power and damage the gear teeth.
Gearbox Height Adjustment:
Adjusting the gearbox height will effectively change rear driveshaft angle. This angle will change how the power is transmitted to the tires. Standard setting is 9mm. Lower setting might be more desirable for low traction conditions.
Slipper Clutch:
The assembly instructions give you a base setting for your clutch. Turn the nut on the shaft so that there is 6mm of thread showing. At the track, tighten or loosen the nut in 1/8 turn increments until you hear a faint slipping sound for 1-2 feet on takeoffs. Another popular way to set the clutch is to hold both rear tires firmly in place and apply short bursts of throttle. If the clutch is properly set, the front tires should lift slightly up off the surface.
Ride Height:
Ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis.
The standard front ride height setting is 28mm (Ride Height Gauge).
Check the front ride height by cycling the suspension up and down. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure ride height (Ride Height Gauge). Raise or lower the shock collars as necessary.
The rear ride height setting you should use most often is 26mm (Ride Height Gauge).
Check the rear ride height by cycling the suspension up and down. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure ride height (Ride Height Gauge). Raise or lower the shock collars as necessary.
Caster:
Caster describes the angle of the caster block as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle.
Positive caster means the kingpin leans rearward at the top.
The total caster angle is the sum of the kick-up angle and the caster block angle.
For less entry steering and more exit steering, try 0° caster block angle.
Front Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended. A camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber. Testing camber with camber gauge
Rear Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks. A camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

Driver:……….. Event: ……………….Driver:…………… Event:………………….
Date:………………. Track.:……………..Date: …………….Track:……………….
Best Pass:……………… RT 60ft Mid ET MPH ETBest Pass: ……………….RT 60ft Mid ET MPH ET
Front Suspension:
Ride Height:………………
Camber:………….
Toe:………………
Arm Type:……………
Tower Type:……………….
Wheel Hex Width:…………..
Steering Block:……………
Bulkhead Type:……………..
Kick-Up Angle:……………..
Notes:…………………….. Rear Suspension:=
Ride Height:………
Camber:……..
Toe:……..
Anti-Roll Bar:…. Yes No
Arm Type:…………….
Wheel Hex Width:…..
Notes:………………… Electronics:
Radio:……….. Servo:………………
EPA:………. Throttle:……………%
ESC:………
ESC Settings:………
Motor:………..
Wind:…………Timing:….
Pinion:…………. Spur:…….
Battery:…………..
Battery Position:……………….
Battery Weight:…………
Drivetrain
Differential Setting:….
Diff Fluid:……..
Notes:………….
Slipper Clutch:
Type:

of Pads:

Setting: Notes:
Shocks:

Track Info
Burnout Surface:……………
Burnout: Yes Yes   No   No …..
Length:………………
Low Medium High Very HighTraction:…………
Asphalt Concrete Prep No-PrepSurface:………….
Temperature:………….
Tire Warmers:…………………
Notes:…………….
Ambient: ……………Track:…………….
Time: Temp:……………..
Tires:
Front Tires:………
Front Compound:………
Front Insert:………………..
Rear Tires:………………….
Rear Compound:…………………
Rear Insert:…………………
Wheel (F/R):………………………..
Notes:………….
Body, ………………….WeightBody, ……….Weight::
Notes:………..
Vehicle Weight:…
Total Vehicle Weight:………………
Body:…….
Body Notes:…..
Chassis Weights:………………….
Chassis Notes:…………..
Front: Rear:………..
Front Suspension:

• Ride Height:
• Camber:
• Toe:
• Arm Type:
• Tower Type:
• Wheel Hex Width:
• Steering Block:
• Bulkhead Type:
• Kick-Up Angle:
• Notes:

Rear Suspension:
Ride Height:…………..
Camber:………..
Toe:………….
Anti-Roll Bar:………………. Yes No
Arm Type:………………..
Wheel Hex Width:……………
Notes:……………… Electronics:
Radio:……….. Servo:………………
EPA:………. Throttle:……………%
ESC:………
ESC Settings:………
Motor:………..
Wind:…………Timing:….
Pinion:…………. Spur:…….
Battery:…………..
Battery Position:……………….
Battery Weight:…………
Drivetrain
Differential Setting:….
Diff Fluid:……..
Notes:………….
Slipper Clutch:
Type:

of Pads:

Setting: Notes:
Shocks:

Track Info
Burnout: Yes No  Length:
Burnout Surface:
Traction: Low Medium High Very High
Surface: Asphalt Concrete Prep No-Prep
Temperature: Ambient: Track:
Tire Warmers:
Time: Temp: Yes   No
Tires
Front Tires:…………
Front Compound:………..
Front Insert:……….
Rear Tires:………….
Rear Compound:…………
Rear Insert:………….
Wheel (F/R):…………..
Notes:………….
Body, WeightBody, …………..Weight……………
Notes:………..
Vehicle Weight:…………..
Total Vehicle Weight:…………….. Front: ……………Rear:…………..
Body:……….
Body Notes:…………..
Chassis Weights:…………………
Chassis Notes:……………
:: For more setups, visit RC10.com and click on “Setup Sheets”
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Associated Electrics, Inc.
21062 Bake Parkway Lake Forest, CA 92630 USA call: 949-544-7500 – fax: 949-544-7501 Check out the following web sites for all of our kits, current products, new releases, setup help, tips, and racing info! www.AssociatedElectrics.com
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References

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