EDELRID GIGA JUL Belay Braking Device User Guide

June 1, 2024
EDELRID

EDELRID GIGA JUL Belay Braking Device

Important Information

Manual braking device to EN 15151-2:2012, type 2 securing a lead climber or top rope climber, securing with rope deflections (top roping), and lowering or abseiling in mountaineering.

GENERAL APPLICATION NOTES

This product is part of personal protective equipment (PPE) for protection against falls from a height and should be assigned to a person. These instructions for use contain vital information. All documents must have been understood by the user before actual use.
The reseller must provide this document in the language spoken in the country of use and it must be kept together with the equipment during the entire service life. The following instructions for use are important and help ensuring proper practical application. However, they cannot replace experience, responsible action and knowledge required for mountaineering, climbing, and working at a height or depth; and they certainly cannot free users from shouldering their personal risk. The product must be used exclusively by trained, experienced persons or by instructed persons who are being supervised. Attention: If these instructions for use are not carefully observed, the life of persons may be at risk!

GENERAL SAFETY NOTES

Mountaineering, climbing and working at heights and in depths often entail hidden dangers and risks caused by external influences.
Errors and carelessness may cause severe accidents, injury, and even death. If this product is combined with other components, these may mutually affect safety. Use only CE marked components of personal protective equipment (PPE) for protection against falling from a height. If original components of the product are modified or removed, the safety properties may be influenced adversely. The equipment should not be altered or remodelled or adjusted by use of additional parts in any way not specifically recommended by the manufacturer in writing. Before and after use, check the product for possible damage. Ensure fitness for use and correct function. If in doubt concerning the safety condition of the product, remove it from use immediately. In case of abuse and/or improper use, the manufacturer refuses any liability. In such cases, the responsibility and risk lie with the users or persons responsible for the operation. When using this product, we recommend additionally observing the applicable national rules. Personal protective equipment is exclusively designed for securing of persons.

PRODUCT-SPECIFIC INFORMATION, FIGURE CAPTIONS

Functional and Safety Check

The user is responsible to check the perfect function of the combination of securing device, securing karabiner and climbing rope(s) used in safe surroundings (near the ground/jump height). The operating properties may vary with some of the applications described above (e. g. brake action); this is due to different karabiner geometries or rope diameters and surfaces. Before securing or abseiling, check the correct attachment of the device as well as the proper function and brake action of the device. Smooth ropes, moisture or icing may impair the brake efficiency of the device. The free end of the rope should always be held firmly in hand. It is recommended to wear gloves, especially if thin ropes are used.

Specification

1a Position of the slider in brake assisted mode (Assisted). Designations of parts: slider (A), top rope climber‘s eye (B), manual brake geometry (C), assisted brake geometry (D), opening for unlocking (E), thumb rest (F), wire bracket (G).
1b Position of slider in manual brake mode (Manual).
2 Admissible rope diameters for each type of dynamic climbing rope for both Manual and Assisted mode. (*): ATTENTION : When ropes in these diameter ranges are used, the brake efficiency may be reduced substantially and more rope may pass in all application situations. Therefore, use of the device in connection with ropes in these diameter ranges is limited to very experienced users, capable of correctly judging the weight ratio, fall potential and friction situation in the securing chain. Brake gloves must be used.

Compatibility

3 We recommend using an HMS Strike FG or HMS Strike Slider FG karabiner. Wenn selecting an alternative karabiner type, be sure an HMS automatic gate karabiner (pear shaped), if possible with turning preventer, is used and that the securing device is attached on the wide end of the karabiner. A small or pointed karabiner attached to the securing device may impair the brake function.

Compatibility

Configuration

4a Inserting one or two ropes in Assisted mode. The slider (A) is on the body side, the thumb rest (F) points away from the body. Be sure to have locked the karabiner.
4a Inserting one or two ropes in Manual mode. The slider (A) is on the body side, the thumb rest (F) points toward the body. Be sure to have locked the karabiner.
4c If only one rope is used, it should always be placed in the brake slot that is opposite the karabiner opening:

Use

5 Securing for lead climbing / top rope securing:
5a When securing a lead climber in Assisted mode, rope can be dealt out with the thumb method. In the thumb method, the thumb of the braking hand (hand that holds the braking rope) briefly pulls the securing device at the thumb rest (F) away from the karabiner, while the guiding hand pulls rope from the device.
5b When securing a lead climber in Manual mode, rope can be dealt out by the brake hand feeding the rope from front to the device, while the guding hand simultaneously pulls the rope upward from the device. The braking hand should always remain below the device.
5c/d To draw the rope in, the guiding hand conducts the rope to the device, while the brake hand simultaneously pulls the rope from the device to the front.

6a To lower a climber in the brake-assisted mode, the device must be unlocked. To achieve that, the securing device can be tilted toward the body, holding it at the thumb bracket, to allow the rope to pass through the device. Both hands should clasp around the braking rope. Avoid any pull on the thumb bracket or wire bracket.
6b To lower a climber in the manual brake mode, both hands clasp around the braking rope and control the lowering speed.

7 The entire brake hand must at all types clasp around the braking rope. If securing is done in front of the body, the ropes must not be held with one hand only. If rope is neither given out nor drawn back, the braking hand must be positioned below the securing device and the thumb of the braking hand must point to the device. Non-observance of these instructions (7a, 7b, 7c) presents a hazard for the life of persons! The braking rope must not run across the slider. If it does, the brake efficiency will be reduced substantially in manual brake mode (7d, 7e).

8 Seciromg a top rope climber from a fixed point (e.g. station): One or two top rope climbers may be secured independently (be sure not to confuse the ropes!). In manual brake mode (1b) the securing device must be fixed with the top rope eye (B) to the fixed point (Fig. 8a). Feed the rope slings through the rope slots and then attach them to a second karabiner (brake karabiner). When securing a top rope climber, the braking hand must always clasp around the braking rope. Figures 8b to 8h show inadmissible faulty uses when securing top rope climbers.

9a/b In case of a fall while securing top rope climbers the ropes may not be pinched in the brake slot and the rope may not be blocked. Therefore, be sure not to allow sagging of ropes when securing top rope climbers.

10 For lowering of a top rope climber the device can be unlocked with an additional karabiner attached to the the unlocking eye. The lowering speed must be controlled with the braking hand. If two top rope climbers are secured, be sure to secure the braking rope of the top rope climber who is not descending (e. g. by means of a knot).

11 When securing a lead climber from a station in a multi-rope length route, be sure there always is at least one intermediate securing point between the securing device and the climber.
ATTENTION : This application may lead to reduced brake efficiency and increased passage of rope length. This application therefore should be reserved to very experienced users, who are capable of correctly estimating weight ratio, fall potential and friction occurring in the securing chain. Brake hand gloves must be used.
11c/d The distance between the intermediate securing point and the fixed point at the station must be large enough to ensure that the device cannot be pulled up to the first intermediate securing point when it is loaded.

12 When securing with full body in multi-rope-length routes be sure there always be sure there always is at least one intermediate securing point between the securing device and the climber.

Maintenance And Precautions

13 Abseiling may be done in both the brake-assisted and the manual mode. Attention: For abseiling and lowering secure the rope ends with stop knots and secure the securing device with a blocking not.
14 Attention : The device should not be supported on or hindered in motion by the wall/mountain, as this may impair the braking efficiency.
15 For best possible handling during securing, the rope should be arranged orderly and free of tangling in a rope sack.

SERVICE LIFE AND REPLACEMENT

The service life of the product mainly depends on the type and frequency of use as well as on external influences. When approaching the durability limits or latest at the end of the maximum service life indicated, the product must be removed from use.

Maximum service life/useful life
No limitation.

Before use, check the product for possible damage and correct function. If in doubt concerning the safety condition of the product, remove it from use immediately.

Additionally, the product must be inspected as needed, however, at least once a year. The inspection may show that the product needs to be serviced or removed from use. In case of commercial use, the product must be inspected by the manufacturer, a qualified person or an approved inspection body/agency; the inspection must be documented.

Immediately remove the braking device from use if any of the following applies

  • fall and impact from great height,
  • extreme grooving and/or deformation,
  • sharp edges have formed due to abrasion,
  • the device is damaged or malfunctions.

STORAGE AND CARE

Storage

Store cool, dry, and protected from daylight outside transport containers. Prevent contact with chemicals.

Cleaning

Clean contaminated products in hand warm water (if needed, add pH-balanced soap). Commercial, halogen-free disinfectants may be used if required.

Climate during use

The temperature range for continuous use of the product (in dry conditions) is approx. -30 °C to +60 °C.

PRODUCT LABELLING

Manufacturer: EDELRID ,

Product designation : Braking device to EN 15151-2:2012,
Model : product name, Diameter range of ropes to be used, in mm,
Read and observe warnings and instructions, Pictorial for proper insertion of the rope,
YYYY MM : Year and month of manufacture Lot number

Our products are made with greatest care. If there is cause for justified claims, please let us know the lot number.
Technical changes reserved.
Test body : TÜV SÜD Product Service GmbH, Ridlerstrasse 65, 80339 München, Deutschland

References

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