EDELRID JUL 2 Autotuber Belay Device Instruction Manual
- June 9, 2024
- EDELRID
Table of Contents
EDELRID JUL 2 Autotuber Belay Device Instruction Manual
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USAGE
This information leaflet contains important information which must be understood before the product is used. Mountaineering, climbing and working at heights and in depths often harbour hidden dangers and risks caused by external influences. Risk of accidents can never be excluded. For more detailed and comprehensive information, please refer to relevant special literature. The following instructions are important to ensure appropriate and correct use of the equipment. However, they cannot replace experience, responsible behaviour and awareness of the risks inherent in mountaineering, climbing and working at heights and in depths and do not release the user from any personal responsibility. Use of the equipment is only permitted to fit and experienced individuals or under appropriate guidance and tuition. Prior to first use the user must familiarize in safe surroundings with the function of the device. The manufacturer cannot be held liable if the equipment has been abused or used incorrectly. All risks and responsibilities are borne by the user at all times. The responsibility and risk in all cases lie with the user or persons responsible for him.
PRODUCT-SPECIFIC NOTES
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Components:
a. Rope slots
b. Thumb bracket
c. Wire bracket -
Function of the device depending on the weight of the climber and the rope diameter (see Fig. 2):
ATTENTION: The brake force of the device is reduced with high user weight and low rope diameter. Thus, a brake test in safe surroundings (safe jump height) is required for each combination of climber, rope and karabiner. Optimum function of Jul2 is achieved when it is combined with EDELRID karabiners type HMS Bruce Steel FG and HMS Strike. -
Inserting the rope: Feed rope sling(s) through the rope slot(s) and attach karabiner. Be sure the thumb bracket points away from the person securing others. The device must be attached to the tie-in loop of the climbing harness by means of a karabiner with snap-action automatic gate.
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We recommend using an HMS Bruce Steel FG, HMS Strike FG or HMS Strike Slider FG karabiner. Wenn selecting an alternative karabiner type, be sure an HMS automatic gate karabiner (pear shaped), if possible with turning preventer, is used and that the securing device is attached on the wide end of the karabiner. A small/pointed karabiner attached to the securing device may impair the brake function.
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Securing during lead climbing / top-rope securing: If a lead climber or top rope climber is secured, the rope may be handed out with the thumb method (Fig. 5a). In the thumb method, the braking hand (hand holding the braking rope) holds the securing device up at the thumb bracket, while the guiding hand pulls the rope from the device. To draw the rope back (Fig. 5b), the guiding hand pulls the rope in; while the braking hand pulls the rope through the securing device.
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At all times, the brake rope must be held completely with the braking hand! If securing is carried out in front of the body, the ropes must not be held with one hand only. If rope is neither given out nor drawn back, the braking hand must be positioned below the securing device and the thumb of the braking hand must point to the device. Non-observance of any of these rules (Fig. 6a, 6b, 6c) may result in fatal accidents!
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Securing a descending climber with your body: To secure a descending climber, the device must be unlocked. This may be done by employing the thumb method, in which the securing device is pulled upward at the thumb bracket, thereby allowing the rope to run through (Fig. 7a). Alternatively, the tilt method may be employed (Fig. 7b): The securing device is tilted by pointer and thumb of the guiding hand and is thereby unlocked. In both cases the brake speed is controlled by the braking hand.
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Fig. 8a and 8b illustrate inadmissible faulty operations for securing of top rope climbers.
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Abseiling: For abseiling we recommend to turn the securing device around so that the thumb bracket points to the body (Fig. 9a). Additionally, use a Prusik sling for back securing. The rope can also be inserted in the securing device as described under item 5 (securing a lead climber) (Fig. 9b). If an unfavourable combination of karabiner, securing device and rope is employed, the rope‘s run may either be inhibited or too fast. Check the compatibility of the combination, using it in a safe environment.
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Attention: During abseiling always hold the brake rope with the braking hand. Attention: For abseiling and descend climbing secure the rope ends by means of stop knots.
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For optimum handling for securing, the rope should lie in a rope sack in orderly, unconfused manner.
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If you secure others with your body in a multi rope length route, be sure at least one intermediate securing point lies between the securing device and the climber.
For further information refer to the product video / home page
Functional and Safety Check
It is the responsibility of the user to check the proper function of the combination of securing device, securing karabiner and climbing rope(s) in a safe environment (near the ground / at jump height). The operating properties may vary with some of the applications described above (e. g. brake action); this is due to different karabiner geometries or rope diameters and surfaces. Before securing or abseiling, check the correct attachment of the device as well as the proper function and brake action of the device. Smooth ropes, moisture or icing may negatively influence the braking effect of the device.
ATTENTION – At all time the brake rope must be held completely with the braking hand!
Rope types to be used
For lead climbing exclusively use dynamic ropes according to EN 892. Diameter
range see Fig. 2. The actual rope diameter may differ from the rated diameter
indicated by the manufacturer by up to ±0.2 mm. Use of static ropes is allowed
for securing with rope deflection (top roping) or for lowering/abseiling of a
person only, but not for securing of a lead climber! Avoid sagging of the
rope.
SAFETY NOTICES
When combining this product with other components, the safety aspects of the products may interfere with each other. Before and after use, check the device for signs of damage (e. g. deformation, fissures and corrosion); ensure its fitness for use and proper functioning. The equipment must be discarded immediately if there is even the slightest doubt as to its serviceability.
Warning! The products must be kept away from damaging environments. This includes contact with abrasive and aggressive substances (e.g. acids, alkalis, soldering water, oils, cleaning agents), as well as extreme temperatures and flying sparks.
CLIMATE REQUIREMENTS
The permanent use temperature of the product (in dry condition) ranges from
approx. -30°C to +60°C.
SERVICE LIFE AND REPLACEMENT
The service life of the product mainly depends on the type and frequency of use as well as on external influences. When approaching the durability limits or latest at the end of the maximum service life indicated, the product must be removed from use.
Maximum service life/useful life
No limitation. Before use, check the product for possible damage and correct
function. If in doubt concerning the safety condition of the product, remove
it from use immediately. Additionally, the product must be inspected as
needed, however, at least once a year. The inspection may show that the
product needs to be serviced or removed from use. In case of commercial use,
the product must be inspected by the manufacturer, a qualified person or an
approved inspection body/agency; the inspection must be documented.
Immediately remove the braking device from use if any of the following applies
- fall and impact from great height,
- extreme grooving and/or deformation,
- sharp edges have formed due to abrasion,
- the device is damaged or malfunctions.
Occasional use: Occasional and appropriate use without obvious wear (Use with clean ropes) and tear and with optimal storage:10 years.
Frequent or extreme use
If used frequently at very high workload, e. g. with contaminated ropes, the
servicelife may be reduced substantially; in case of extreme use it may be
less than 2 years.
Be sure to remove the securing device from service immediately
- if it has dropped and hit the ground from high altitude,
- if extreme grooving and/or deformation has occurred,
- sharp edges from erosion of material
- if the device is damaged or malfunctions.
STORAGE AND CARE
Storage: Store in a cool, dry, dark place outside transport containers. Avoid contact with chemicals (caution: battery acid!)
Cleaning: Clean soiled products in luke-warm water (if necessary, use pH- neutral soap). If required, halogen-free commercial desinfectants may be used.
Warning! Failure to follow these instructions may endanger life!
PRODUCT INFORMATION FOR THIS ITEM
Manufacturer: EDELRID
Product designation: Braking device according to EN 15151-2
Model: Product name Diameter range in mm of ropes to be used
i-Symbol: Warning notices and instructions must be read and observed
Pictorial for correct insertion of the rope Lot number with year of
manufacture
Our products are manufactured with the utmost care. However, should any of our
products give cause for a justified complaint, please advise us of the lot
number. We reserve the right to make technical amendments.
Testhouse: TÜV SÜD Product Service GmbH, 80339 Munich, Germany
References
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>