Bailey TB18 Grain Silage Trailer Model Kit Instruction Manual

: June 1, 2024
: Bailey

Table of Contents

CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER
References
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**Bailey TB18 Grain Silage Trailer Model Kit Instruction Manual

**

CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER

The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before
painting.
This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to make sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations that are not in the instructions should be carried out.
Glue: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super Glue. I use the Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue which is readily available from most hardware stores including B&Q and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond, the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks.
Paint: The instructions will suggest the best point to paint components. A good quality automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive acrylic is recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be problem free and provide a good finish to your model while being readily available.

Read all the instructions before building to avoid any unexpected surprises

Step 1: To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (wheels and tyres ) in a strong washing up liquid solution. Remove any flash from the resin parts too, this is excess resin left over from the casting process where resin is poured into the mould. Then remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and use a knife to cut the small tabs holding each part to the sprue, DO NOT push the parts out, always cut them. Sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or less. The laser cutting process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond can be made and the surface of the plastic is improved for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can give a thin paint application that shows as white edges in the final paint.
It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a brittle material and can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can set firmly. Same applies to resin parts.

Step 2: Start the build by gluing the chassis rails. Glue part 6 to 8 aligning them at the front and with the angled drop down that will become the ram mount. Repeat for the opposite side ensuring you glue the other way around.
Step 3: Glue the cross members into the slots in the chassis, from the front glue 18, 10, 11, 9, 9, 9.
Ensure they are glued square to the chassis rail in both directions.
Then glue the opposite chassis rails to the other side to create the chassis.

Step 4: Add the following chassis parts: 2 part 12 ram mounts in the slots on part 11, ensure the holes line up with the holes in the chassis.
The light brackets 22 slot into the rear of the chassis.
The front end 7 glues central to the front of the chassis.

Step 5: Construct the drawbar by gluing the edge of 16 to the flat face of 15 as illustrated, repeat for the other side then glue the tow eye 17 to the bottom. Step 6: Glue the drawbar in place, it should slot into the front with the rear butted up against the front cross member. You can now glue the shoe 25 x2 in place on the drawbar.
Glue the drawbar springs 19 back to back, then glue them to the underside of the drawbar and to the cross member 10 as illustrated below.

Step 7: Complete the drawbar by building the hose holder, glue 21 on the top of 20 as shown.
It is easier to paint this part separately so don’t glue to the drawbar yet.

This completes the chassis, you can dry fit the wheels and rams to check everything lines up before moving onto building the body.

Step 8: Start the body build by gluing the thin floor sheet to the floor part 2. Trim any excess material from the sides.

Step 9: Glue the side sheet 1 to the flat plastic side, Ensure the engraved side isn’t against the plastic sheet. If building a silage version also glue the silage sides 33 to the sheet. Note that the front steps out at the top. The plastic sheet needs cutting around the notch at the front, this cut should run all the way up the grain side, and come across at the silage side, see illustration below.

Step 10: Trim the rear of the plastic sheets as shown and pierce the sheet where the hole for the tailgate pin is.
If building the grain trailer trim thin sheet to suit.

Step 11: Remove the paper backing from both sides of the laser cut thin front panel. Glue the front panel part 3 to the sheet aligning with the base and central. If building the silage variant glue the silage top part 34 above the arch. If building a grain trailer trim the sheet around the arch.

Step 12: Begin to construct the body by gluing the front to the side as illustrated, then glue the floor to the side and front to create a corner.

Step 13: Complete the body by adding the second side as pictured.

Step 14: Glue the chassis rails part 4 to the body aligning with the notches at each end of the floor. Then glue the tipping member part 24 to the floor as shown, gluing the ram pivots part 23 into the notches of the tipping member.

Step 15: Complete the body by gluing the hinges part 14 into the slots in the floor, then cap the rear end off with part no 5. If building the silage variant you can also cut the metal mesh at this stage and glue it to the back of the front sheet. Do not glue the clear plastic front in place at this stage.

Step 16: Begin the tailgate by gluing the tailgate 27 to the thin tailgate sheet. If building a silage trailer add the extension 36 gluing central to the top of the tailgate. Note the bottom of the tailgate is where the thinner central section is. Trim the excess sheet as appropriate. The grey plastic grain hatch can also be glued in at this stage in the centre section.

Step 17: Tailgate arms are made by gluing the flat face of 29 to the edge of 28 as illustrated. Repeat for the other side ensuring you glue 29 the opposite way around.

Step 18: If building the silage version glue the extensions 35 to the narrow thin plastic strip. Then trim any excess plastic away.

Step 19: Glue the notches of each tailgate arm to the front of the tailgate as illustrated. The notch should reach up to the edge of the first cut out on each side of the tailgate. Glue the silage extensions to the top of 28 and edge of 36.

Step 20: Tri Axle Only. If building the tandem axle trailer skip this step, the resin mudguards are fitted after paint.
The tri axle mudguards are constructed by gluing the side to the long edge as shown, then glue the short downwards angle to either end. The assembled mudguards then fit to the body 40mm from the rear, they should stick out of the side of the body by 2mm.

The model is now ready for paint, you may wish to dry assemble everything first to check it all fits.

Step 21: Paint
Ensure all parts are clean and free of dust before painting. Contamination such as grease from fingertips can cause issues with paint so give all parts a good wipe down before painting.

Begin by spray painting all parts with a grey plastic primer. We use the Halfords Grey Plastic Primer, it is readily available, a good price and doesn’t tend to react with any top coat paint.

Allow the primer to dry in full before applying a top coat.
For the top coat we have used a custom mixed paint from our local car body supply shop. In this case we have painted the trailer in RAL 6005 a good match for darker Bailey green, for lighter Bailey green try RAL 6002.
Halfords Ford Laurel Green is also a reasonable match for Bailey Green.

The wheel rims, ladder and hose holder are painted in Tamiya XF16 Flat Aluminium, any silver paint is suitable.

If building the tandem axle trailer the mudguard want to be painted in a matt or satin black, we used Tamiya XF85 Rubber Black.

You can leave the Perspex screen unpainted, or to paint the screen lightly sand the areas to paint, then mix some green top coat with some grey plastic primer. Brush paint the primer top coat mix on to the screen, build up in layers until satisfied with the finish.

Step 22: Final fit. Once the paint has cured in full the model can be assembled. To mount the body on the chassis bend one end of the thick wire length, thread through the hinge holes, bend the other end and trim the wire to length. Repeat the process for both ends of the ram mounts as pictured.

Step 23: The tailgates is fixed using the thinner wire, bend one end, thread through the holes, bend the other end and trim to length.

Step 24: The mudguards for the tandem axle can be glued on at this stage. Glue them 46mm back from the back, check the position using the wheels as pictured.

Step 25: The mudflap can now be cut out and glued to the mudguards and the mounts at the front, Cut the decals out and stick these to the rubber.

Step 26: Glue the ladders to the nearside of the trailer, the hose holder in the slot on the drawbar and the Perspex screen in the arched hole at the front of the trailer.

Step 27: The wheels can be attached with a small dab of glue on the end of each axle, use the black straw cut to short lengths to space the wheels away from the chassis rails. Check the direction of the tyre tread to make sure each side matches.

Step 28: The last step is to add the decals. You may find this easier to do as you are assembling the body. The decals are cut out of the sheet using scissors. Cut as close as comfortable to the text, then peel away the backing paper and stick the decal down onto the body. For the conspicuity/reflective tape cut they included sheet into 2mm strips, then peel off the backing and apply to the trailer. The below photos are included for decal placement.