DIY Epoxy Coat Good and Better Instruction Manual
- June 1, 2024
- DIY
Table of Contents
**DIY Epoxy Coat Good and Better Instruction Manual
**
Product Using Instruction Coating Kit Installation Instructions
Good System – Flakes included
Better System – Flakes included 
www.PerformanceDIY.com
Step 1: Sweep or power blow entire floor surface area.
Step 2: Typically, old concrete floors have contaminants which must be
removed prior to coating. Using a diluted degreaser and hot water, you should
scrub those areas vigorously. Heavy contaminated or oily areas should be
concentrated and repeated if necessary. Grinding should be done if degreaser
is ineffective.
Step 3: Add acid granules floor prep solution into 5 quarts of chilly
water in a plastic sprinkling can or plastic pump sprayer and mix until
diluted. (Prep solution is not necessary if floor was diamond grinded)
Step 4: Apply the premix evenly over the surface. Do not expect foaming.
Scrub the premix into the surface with a stiff bristled broom.
Step 5: After application of floor prep, double rinse the surface with a
water hose. Scrub while rinsing to insure removal of all loosened material.
After the surface has dried, check any glossy or oily areas by applying a few drops of water. If water does not penetrate quickly, re-etch the affected areas.
Note: Muriatic acid can be used in place of clean and prep solution.
Allow the floor to dry fully before coating. A power blower can be used to
assist in the evaporation of the remaining water. Once your floor is dry, rub
your fingers on the concrete and check your fingers for a film. If there is no
film, you are prepared for application of the coating. Remember you must
remove contaminants and create a profile before coating, or your coating will
not adhere correctly. Mixing Instructions (Good and Better)
Step 6: (Optional Epoxy Primer is applied the same way as base coat. The
minimum dry time is 12 hours. If coating time succeeds 24hours, the old
coating must be sanded with 100-120 grit sand paper for a new coating to bond
with old.)
Step 6: Install spike shoes Into the large, mixing bucket, pour all Part
“B” ACTIVATOR/HARDENER contents.
Step 7: Mix all of Part “A” of epoxy in its original bucket for 3
minutes. Once a customer mixes part “A” first determine color to assure the
color is acceptable before activating. If the customer does not like the color
STOP and call Tech Support at
800-841-5580 to determine appropriate
options. Do not assume that the color will change. Pour all pre-mixed contents
of epoxy Part “A” Resin into same bucket as Part “B” and mix again for another
3minutes.
NOTE: If UV additive is purchased, you would add it to Part A color coat
when mixing. Step 7A: MORE THAN ONE KIT If more than one kit is being used,
please check batch numbers on the top of part “A” lid. If different, batch mix
all colored Part “A” resins together for color consistency If the color is not
what you like “STOP,” do not activate and contact PerformanceDIY.com for
options as activation, mixing or application will NOT change color. Note:
Mixing must be very thorough (3 minutes), or the coating will not cure and
clean up, and removal of the uncured epoxy will be costly and very time
consuming. Do not wipe the sides of the mixing bucket between mixes or after
the final mix as there may be residual unmixed epoxy. The residual epoxy in
the mixing bucket will not adversely affect the future epoxy mixes. Into the
same large, cleaned mixing bucket, pour 1 gallon of Part “B”
ACTIVATOR/HARDENER contents.
Step 8: Immediately pour ALL mixed contents in a line on the floor (Do
not leave any mixed coating in the bucket for cut in, use the material on the
floor to cut in around perimeter). Starting in the farthest corner of the
room, pour mixed contents (parallel to and approx. two feet from the wall”).
Using the kit brush, cut in the perimeter walls or any other obstruction that
may be hard to roll. For a full kit pour half of the mixed contents parallel
to the wall and half parallel to the first pour in the center of the room. You
will have two equal lines of materials approximately 3″-4″ wide separated
approximately 8′-12.
Note: After pouring mixed coating from the bucket to the floor, you have
30-40 minutes working time @ 70 degrees F (lower at higher temps). Application
Instructions:
Step 9: Using the kit squeegee, (perpendicular to the poured line of
epoxy) draw the epoxy from the back wall with the squeegee until there is no
longer wet epoxy to draw back. Continue to squeegee pulling this product down
the line until complete.
Step 10: With the kit roller, perpendicular to squeegee application, roll
the epoxy until even and consistent. If you do not have spike shoes, make sure
you only squeegee those areas to give you enough room to back roll without
walking into the wet epoxy.
Step 11: (If you have spike shoes) After the second section is squeegeed
and rolled, go back and re-back roll entire floor completely.
Step 12: Flake Application for Base Coat (Do not flake primer coat)
Taking a pinch amount, apply flake chips into base coat by throwing the flakes
into the air a minimum of 5′ or higher, rebounding off ceiling if possible,
apply evenly throughout.
Remember, only flake a section after the floor area looks satisfactory as once
you flake the floor you will not be able to re-back roll again.
The flake chips should be broadcasted into your final color coat (prior to
applying clear coat if clear coat will be applied/Premium System).
Clean squeegee while still wet with xylene or MEK thinner for use in next
coat.
Next Step: Clear Epoxy Instructions (Better kit only)
Install spike shoes.
Step 13: Rinse and dry the large mixing bucket (which held all kit
contents) with a clean rag prior to mixing. Install the supplied mixing tool
into a high-speed drill. Step 14: Into the same large, cleaned mixing bucket,
pour 1 gallon of Part “B” ACTIVATOR/HARDENER contents. Step 15: Pre-mix Part
“A” Clear (large bucket) Epoxy in its original container. INTO THE SAME OUTER
MIXING BUCKET, pour all 2 gallons pre-mixed contents of Epoxy Part “A” CLEAR
RESIN.
Note: For smaller mixes, the actual mixing ratio is 2.3 parts of Part A
Resin to 1 part B Activator/Hardener. Step 16: Mix thoroughly with the mixing
tool for 3 minutes paying close attention to mixing all around the buckets
sides and raising and lowering with the mixing tool.
Note: Mixing must be very thorough (3 minutes), or the coating will not
cure and clean up, and removal of the uncured epoxy will be costly and very
time consuming. Do not wipe the sides of the mixing bucket between mixes or
after the final mix as there may be residual unmixed epoxy. The residual epoxy
in the mixing bucket will not adversely affect the future epoxy mixes.
Step 17: Immediately pour ALL mixed contents in a line on the floor (Do
not leave any mixed coating in the bucket for cut in, use the material on the
floor to cut in around perimeter). Starting in the farthest corner of the
room, pour mixed contents (parallel to and approx. two feet from the wall”).
Using the kit brush, cut in the perimeter walls or any other obstruction that
may be hard to roll. For a full kit pour half of the mixed contents parallel
to the wall and half parallel to the first pour in the center of the room. You
will have two equal lines of materials approximately 3″-4″ wide separated
approximately 8′-12.
Note: After pouring mixed coating from the bucket to the floor, you have
30-40 minutes working time @ 70 degrees F (lower at higher temps).
Step 18: Using the kit squeegee, (perpendicular to the poured line of
epoxy) draw the epoxy from the back wall with the squeegee until there is no
longer wet epoxy to draw back. Continue to squeegee pulling this product down
the line until complete and all dry area of flake is covered.
Step 19: With the kit roller, perpendicular to squeegee application, roll
the epoxy until even and consistent.
Step 20: Re-back roll entire floor in opposite direction completely. If
you desire to have aluminum oxide nonskid added to the floor broadcast
aluminum oxide non-skid over the floor in lesser amounts (only in the previous
section which has been back rolled a 2nd time). Taking a pinch amount apply by
throwing the non-skid into the air a minimum of 5′ or higher. Re-bounding the
non-skid off the ceiling is a good idea to get even coverage.
Note: Aluminum oxide will make the floor more slip resistant but will
make it harder to clean; it should be used according to your desired needs.
PerformanceDIY.com non-skid additive is industry
standard and accepted means for creating a proper recommended OSHA 0.5
COEFFECIENT FRICTION slip resistant non-skid surface.
If you desire to have aluminum oxide nonskid added to the floor broadcast
aluminum oxide non-skid over the floor
in lesser amounts (only in the previous section which has been back rolled a
2nd time). Taking a pinch amount apply by throwing the non-skid into the air a
minimum of 5′ or higher. Re-bounding the non-skid off the ceiling is a good
idea to get even coverage.
Note: Aluminum oxide will make the floor more slip resistant but will
make it harder to clean; it should be used according to your desired needs.
PerformanceDIY.com non-skid additive is industry
standard and accepted means for creating a proper recommended OSHA 0.5
COEFFECIENT FRICTION slip resistant non-skid surface.
169 N. Gratiot Mt. Clemens, MI 48043
Ο: 800-841-5580.
F: 586-468-844
PerformanceDIY.com
Surface Coatings:
Industrial & Commercial
Garage
Basement
Deck & Patio
Driveways
Paver Coating
References
- PerformanceDIY - DIY Certified Epoxy & Polyaspartic Coating kits
- PerformanceDIY - DIY Certified Epoxy & Polyaspartic Coating kits