PERFORMANCE DIY 12-15-23 Certified Coatings Poly Coat Certified Instruction Manual
- June 1, 2024
- PERFORMANCE DIY
Table of Contents
PERFORMANCE DIY 12-15-23 Certified Coatings Poly Coat Certified
Installation Instructions
Certified Poly-Coat System – Flakes included
Monday-Friday 9-5 PM Tech Support Saturday 11-3 PM EST 800-841-5580 EST
Step 1:
Sweep or power blow the entire floor surface area.
Step 2:
Typically, old concrete floors have contaminants that must be removed before
coating. Using a diluted degreaser and hot water, you should scrub those areas
vigorously. Heavy contaminated or oily areas should be concentrated and
repeated if necessary. Grinding should be done if the degreaser is
ineffective. Add acid granules of floor prep solution into 5 quarts of chilly
water in a plastic sprinkling can or plastic pump sprayer and mix until
diluted. (Prep solution is not necessary if the floor is diamond ground). For
Industrial/Commercial floors we recommend shotblasting or diamond grinding.
Step 4:
Apply the premix evenly over the surface. Do not expect foaming. Scrub the
premix into the surface with a stiff bristled broom.
Step 5:
After application of floor prep, double rinse the surface with a water hose.
Scrub while rinsing to insure removal of all loosened material. After the
surface has dried, check any glossy or oily areas by applying a few drops of
water. If water does not penetrate quickly, re-etch the affected areas.
Note: Muriatic acid can be used in place of clean and prep solution in the same fashion. Allow the floor to dry fully before coating. A power blower can be used to assist in the evaporation of the remaining water. Once your floor is dry, rub your fingers on the concrete and check your fingers for a film. If there is no film, you are prepared for application of the coating. Remember you must remove contaminants and create a profile before coating, or your coating will not adhere correctly.
Mixing Instructions
Step 6
Into the large, mixing bucket, pour all Part “B” EPOXY ACTIVATOR/HARDENER
contents.
Step 7
Mix all of Part “A” of Epoxy in its original bucket for 3 minutes. **If the
colour is not what you like “STOP”” do not activate and contact
PerformanceDIY.com for options. Activation, mixing or application will NOT
change colour.
- Pour all pre-mixed contents of Epoxy Part “A” RESIN into a large bucket and mix along with Part “B” in the large container for 3 minutes.
Step 7A: MORE THAN ONE KIT
If more than one kit is being used, please check the batch numbers on the top
of the part “A” lid. If different batches mix all colored Part “A” resins
together for colour consistency If the colour is not what you like “STOP” do
not activate and contact PerformanceDIY.com for options as activation, mixing
or application will NOT change colour.
Note: Mixing must be very thorough (3 minutes), or the coating will not cure and clean up, and removal of the uncured epoxy will be costly and very time-consuming. Do not wipe the sides of the mixing bucket between mixes or after the final mix as there may be residual unmixed epoxy. The residual epoxy in the mixing bucket will not adversely affect future epoxy mixes.
Step 8:
After mixing Part “A” and Part “B” Immediately pour ALL mixed contents in a
line on the floor (Do not leave any mixed coating in the bucket for cut-in,
use the material on the floor to cut in around the perimeter). Starting in the
farthest corner of the room, pour mixed contents (parallel to and approx. two
ft. from the wall). Using the kit brush, cut in the perimeter walls or any
other obstruction that may be hard to roll. For a full kit pour half of the
mixed contents parallel to the wall and half parallel to the first pour in the
centre of the room. You will have two equal lines of materials approximately
3″-4″ wide separated approximately 8′-12:
Note: After pouring mixed coating from the bucket to the floor, you have 30-40 minutes working time @ 70 degrees F (lower at higher temps).
Application Instructions
Step 9:
Using the kit squeegee, (perpendicular to the poured line of epoxy) draw the
epoxy from the back wall with the squeegee until there is no longer wet epoxy
to draw back. Continue to squeegee pulling this product down the line until
complete.
Step 10:
With the kit roller, perpendicular to the squeegee application, roll the epoxy
until even and consistent.
Step 11:
After the second section is squeezed and rolled, go back to the first section
and re-backroll it completely (approx. 5 minutes after first backroll).
Step 12:
Flake Application for Base Epoxy Coat
Taking a pinch amount of flake chips, apply by throwing the flakes into the
air a minimum of 5′ or higher preferably bouncing off the ceiling. Apply
evenly throughout the entire floor. Re-apply flake chips in the same manner
until flake density is achieved and consistent.
Note: You will want to apply smaller amounts so you can have enough for an even more consistent look. If you apply larger amounts at the beginning you may run short on flake chips to give an even look. Only flake a section after the floor area looks satisfactory as once you flake the floor you will not be able to re-back roll again. Applying more flakes to the floor will hide inconsistencies and patching in the concrete is better than fewer flakes. Heavier flakes make the floor more uniform in appearance. Clean the squeegee while still wet with xylene or MEK thinner for use in the next coat.
Performance Poly 300 Clear Top Coat mixing instructions
NOTE: After 8 hours, you can apply Poly 300. If you wait more than 24
hours, you need to sand the surface with 100-120 grit to get the bond back.
WARNING: Wear protective gloves, clothing, glasses, and spike shoes when
using this product. Proper ventilation is required for use. See the SDS sheet
for more information, available at PerformanceDIY.com.
Step 13:
Into the large mixing bucket, pour 1/2 Part “B” POLY ACTIVATOR/HARDENER
contents.
Step 14:
Into the large mixing bucket, pour 1/2 Part “A” of Poly and mix with Part “B”
for 2 minutes. Pour all mixed contents of Poly evenly and parallel to 6″ from
the wall. Leave a small amount and cut in half of the floor.
Step 15:
Using the kit squeegee, (perpendicular to the poured line of poly) draw the
poly from the back wall with the squeegee until there is no longer wet poly to
draw back. Continue to squeegee pulling this product down the line until
complete.
Step 16:
With the kit roller, perpendicular to the squeegee application, roll the poly
until even and consistent.
Step17:
Repeat Steps 13-16 to complete the second half of the floor.
Step 18:
After the second section is squeezed and rolled, go back, and re-roll the
entire floor. If you desire to have aluminium oxide nonskid added to the floor
broadcast aluminium oxide non-skid over the floor after final back-rolling.
Taking a pinch amount apply by throwing the non-skid into the air a minimum of
5′ or higher. Re-bounding the non-skid off the ceiling is a good idea to get
even coverage.
Note: Aluminum oxide will make the floor more slip-resistant but will make it harder to clean; it should be used according to your desired needs. PerformanceDIY.com non-skid additive is the industry standard and accepted means for creating a properly recommended OSHA 0.5 COEFFICIENT FRICTION slip- resistant non-skid surface.
169 N. Gratiot • Mt. Clemens, MI 48043 O: 800-841-5580. F: 586-468-844 PerformanceDIY.com
Surface Coatings Industrial & Commercial Garage Basement Deck & Patio Driveways Paver Coating
Product Information
Specifications
- Product Name : Industrial & Commercial Surface Coatings
- Brand : PerformanceDIY
- Application Areas: Garage, Basement, Deck & Patio, Driveways, Paver Coating, Counter Tops, Concrete Patch
FAQ
Q: Can I use Muriatic acid as a substitute for the cleaning solution?
A: Yes, Muriatic acid can be used similarly to the clean and prep solution.
Q: How should I clean the tools after use?
A: Clean the tools while still wet with xylene or MEK thinner to prepare
for the next coat application.
References
- PerformanceDIY - DIY Certified Epoxy & Polyaspartic Coating kits
- PerformanceDIY - DIY Certified Epoxy & Polyaspartic Coating kits
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