HYDRA EV Zodiac 7kw Home Charger User Manual
- May 15, 2024
- HYDRA
Table of Contents
- HYDRA EV Zodiac 7kw Home Charger
- Product Usage Instructions
- FAQs
- EV HISTORY
- The EV Bible
- Hybrid or BEV
- Buying a USED EV
- Servicing an EV
- EVs and Recovery Companies
- Charging at home
- Bi-directional charging or V2G
- Can you make money from your EV charger
- Workplace and Commercial Charging
- Towing with an EV
- HYDRA HOME APP
- References
- Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
- Download This Manual (PDF format)
HYDRA EV Zodiac 7kw Home Charger
Specifications
- Product Name: HYDRA ZODIAC 7kW HOME CHARGER
- Features: Robust and feature-packed design
- Variants: Black, Grey, White; Socket only or Tethered
- Availability: Always in stock for next day delivery
- Contact: 01268 205121 | sales@hydraev.co.uk | www.hydraev.co.uk
Product Usage Instructions
1. Installation
Ensure the charger is installed by a certified electrician following the provided installation manual.
2. Charging Process
Connect the charger to your electric vehicle following the manufacturer’s guidelines.
Choose the appropriate charging mode (socket only or tethered) based on your vehicle’s compatibility.
3. Safety Precautions
Always unplug the charger when not in use.
Avoid using damaged cables or plugs.
Keep the charger away from water or moisture to prevent electrical hazards.
4. Maintenance
Regularly inspect the charger for any signs of wear and tear.
Clean the charger with a dry cloth to prevent dust accumulation.
Ensure proper ventilation around the charger to prevent overheating.
FAQs
- Q: Can I leave my electric vehicle connected to the charger overnight?
- A: Yes, it is safe to leave your vehicle connected to the charger overnight as modern chargers have built-in safety features to prevent overcharging.
- Q: Is it possible to use the charger for different electric vehicle models?
- A: The charger may be compatible with various electric vehicle models, but it is recommended to check with the manufacturer for specific compatibility information.
- Q: How can I troubleshoot if the charger is not working?
- A: Check the power source, cables, and connections for any issues. If problems persist, contact customer support for assistance.
EV The Bible
Your complete guide to owning and driving Electric Vehicles
Sponsored by
HYDRA ZODIAC 7kW HOME CHARGER
The HYDRA ZODIAC Electric Vehicle Charger is robust and feature-packed with a sleek, stylish and unobtrusive design.
· Domestic/Commercial · 7kW or 22kW output · Socket or 4.8m cable
· IP65 weatherproof rated · PEN detection · Wi-Fi or Ethernet
· Smart-phone App · Wall or pedestal mount · Networkable
Black, Grey or White, Socket only or Tethered, always in stock for next day delivery!
01268 205121 | sales@hydraev.co.uk | www.hydraev.co.uk
The EV Bible
EV HISTORY
Ferdinand Porsche developed his first EV, the P1 in 1898. Shown right in the Porsche museum in Stuttgart, Germany
Where it all began
It may be interesting to note that the Electric Vehicle is not a new thing at
all. In fact the first battery powered vehicles appeared in the early 1800s.
At a time when most large transport was steam powered and the general public
were limited to horsepower quite literally a few ingenious individuals
explored the opportunity of powering personal transport with electricity.
It is hard to pinpoint the exact birth of the industry as several innovators
across the world were working on their own inventions. The UK, Hungary,
Netherlands and USA all claim to have nurtured early adopters.
In 1898 Ferdinand Porsche , yes THAT Ferdinand Porsche, designed his first
car, The P1 or `Porsche No.1′, also known as the EggerLohner electric vehicle
C.2 Phaeton model, in Austria. The P1 promised amazing performance at the time
and a quite respectable range, even by today’s standards. The 2.2kW motor
propelled the vehicle up to 22mph and offered a drive time of four-to-five
hours or 50miles.
In September 1899 Porsche entered the car into a race in Berlin and crossed
the line
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Fritchle Electric
In 1905 one of the best selling cars, of any type, was the Fritchle Electric.
Costing more than 6-times the price of a `normal’ Ford Model-T the Fritchle
appealed to the well-heeled and those who wanted to stand out.
Offering to propel six people at heady speeds of 14mph for a total range of
100 miles a Fritchle costing $2000 could be delivered within 10 days of
ordering.
Oliver Fritchle set up a publicity stunt in 1908 driving 1,800 miles from
Nebraska to New York City in one of his cars. It took him 20 days and he
charged the battery along the way at whatever charge points he could find.
a full 18 minutes before the car which came 2nd. He went on to develop this
vehicle further to create the world’s first hybrid car using an electric motor
and battery in conjunction with a combustion engine which powered the
generator.
By 1900 Electric vehicles were enjoying their best ever sales, accounting for
roughly one third of all vehicles sold worldwide. Even New York City, USA, had
a fleet of more than 60 electric taxis.
The same considerations and benefits of electric vehicles were recognised over
100 years ago as they are today. Ease of use and clean to use with no
emissions at the point of driving. Petrol combustion engines, on the other
hand, were very hard to start, notoriously difficult to drive with their
complex gear changes and foul exhaust emissions.
The death knell for further development of the EV was pronounced with the
discovery of more oil reserves and Henry Ford. In 1900 an
EV would cost around $1800 and was heavily dependent on battery charging
facilities, much as modern EVs depend on the charging infrastructure today.
Henry Ford’s Model T gave buyers the option of personal mobility, without the
horse, for under $700. The rest is history. Petrol and diesel powered
transport pretty much took over until the turn of the 21st century.
However EVs didn’t go away, they have been used almost continuously in certain
specialist industries ever since.
Those of a certain age will all remember the electric milk floats which
delivered milk to our doorstops every day. These were perfectly suited to
electric power: Silent in use, very short range required and able to carry
very heavy loads.
In underground mining operations, too, the electric motor was much preferred
to the combustion engine where safety and fire prevention measures are
paramount.
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The EV Bible
21st Century EVs
The Toyota Prius was launched in Japan in 1997 but not exported worldwide
until 2000. This petrol/electric hybrid offered the best compromise at the
time of emission free driving in town with a petrol engine backup. Adopted by
celebrities and other influencers (this was before influencer’ was even a thing) The Prius became the go-to option for
green’ transport.
Six years later a small startup named `Tesla’
announced it had built an electric-only sports car which offered a 200 mile
range (shown below). Tesla used lithium battery technology – similar to laptop
batteries – which turned out to be far superior to the nickel-hydride used in
the Prius. The leap in technology was momentous and cemented Tesla as the
world-leading EV manufacturer which other car manufacturers used as a
benchmark.
Interestingly Elon Musk, CEO of Tesla, offered the EV technology and
developments patent free to any vehicle manufacturer which wanted to use it.
His only stipulation was that those manufacturers could not, in
turn, register patents of their own which could limit the development of EV
technology. Few manufacturers took him up on his offer but most do now offer
similar tech to power their own EV fleet.
Reva-G-Wiz
Billed as the worst car ever made the G-Wiz was an ill-fated attempt to
develop an electric solution to urban transport.
Built in India it promised transport for two adults and two children with a
range of 50 miles at speeds of up to 50mph. In reality you’d be hard pressed
to fit one large sized adult in the car and the paltry 13kW motor would
struggle to get you to much over 30mph never mind 50!
The real concern performance and range aside was safety. It had all the
structural integrity of a discarded fast food carton and
the shoddy build meant you’d get wet whenever it rained.
Reva continued to update the car with better AC motor, batteries and brakes
but it just never delivered anything that it promised. It briefly achieved the
honour of being the best selling electric car in the world. But back in 2008
there was very little competition.
Legally classed as a quadricycle it could be driven on the roads by a 16 year
old but no self-respecting teenager would be seen dead in it.
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2030 and Beyond
If you’re thinking about buying an EV then you probably already know that from
2030 no petrol or diesel powered cars will be sold in the UK, although the
sale of hybrid cars (petrol or diesel engine plus battery power) can continue
until 2035.
What this means, in stark volume terms, is that the current sales of 150,000
EV cars per year will need to rise to 2.5million annual sales just to meet the
normal, existing demand for new cars. Not only will the vehicles and
manufacturing facilities need to be ramped up but so will the EV charging
infrastructure.
This transition is the biggest policy change to affect the UK population since
decimalisation in 1971. Renaming the Marathon chocolate bar to Snickers just
pales in comparison. Can we cope with such a swift transition?
We can and, quite frankly, we must. The law is in place. Those die-hards can
harrumph all they like but the EV sector is here to stay. Other countries have
shown willing, in Norway no less than 70% of all new cars sold are already
electric. In Germany the increase in EV sales has been almost four-fold.
New Models.
Many manufacturers have progressed from replacing the petrol engine with a
battery pack and motor and gone straight to developing new electric only
models. While electrifying familiar and existing models certainly helps those
too nervous to embrace completely new technology it also, arguably, held back
development by allowing people to look at a direct comparison between a petrol
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The EV Bible
Replacing the fuel tax
The conundrum for central government is how to balance the target of Net Zero
emissions by 2050 (a big part of which is forcing the switch to EV transport)
and the loss in revenue gained from fuel duties.
The UK government currently receives £28billion in fuel duty per year, the
equivalent of roughly £1,000 per household. While this will not instantly
disappear in 2030 petrol and diesel cars will still exist the total tax
take will reduce year on year.
Making up for this shortfall has not been openly discussed by those in
Westminster MPs are very cautious of discussing rises in tax! but other
local and regional governments have raised the issue of road pricing using
ANPR technology (Automatic Number Plate Recognition) similar to that used for
the Congestion Charge and Low Emission Zones in London and the Dartford
Crossing tolls.
Although the technology does not yet exist to charge a vehicle owner for every
mile they drive instead of relying on them driving past a roadside camera, it
is not beyond the realm of possibility that it could be deployed in the near
future.
Black-box systems are already in-place for young drivers and corporate fleets
which log vehicle usage as well as driving charateristics. However this is
usually private monitoring where there is a direct benefit to the young driver
(reduced insurance premiums) or the company (better fleet management).
Attaching a black box’ that feeds data directly to central or local government is an entirely different prospect which opens up concerns about privacy and potential misuse. There are currently many incentives in place to make it easier and financially beneficial to switch to EVs. Drivers are firmly used to the perception of the
low tax’ environment for Electric Vehicles as well as the much lower running
costs. Applying new taxes too early could stifle the uptake of EVs, applying
it too late risks losing revenue for government.
The conundrum remains unresolved . . .
powered car and the electric equivalent. The higher price and perceived
shorter range just highlighted negatives while promoting few of the positives.
Developing completely new models with no direct petrol/diesel equivalent both
helps potential buyers focus on the beneficial aspects and help manufacturers
remove the limitations imposed by trying to fit a form of propulsion into a
vehicle not originally designed to use it.
New EV models and improved versions are now coming to the market in a steady
stream from almost all manufacturers. The current choice of pure EV models
range from the smallest city runabout right up to sportscars with a seven-
figure price tag and everything in between. There’s no doubt you should be
able to find a car that fits your needs and budget.
From a charging infrastructure standpoint the current estimate is that there
are approximately 500 EV chargepoints per 100km of public road. Informed
estimates suggest that this will need to rise to over 1,000 chargepoints per
100km to support the increased use of Electric Vehicles.
While it might look like the UK is quite a way off that target you could also
look at it and say we’re already half way there with another eight years to go
before the switch to pure EV sales comes into effect.
The EV Bible
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HYDRA EVC
As soon as you mention Electric Vehicles, whether you just say you like the
look of one, or are thinking of buying one, you will immediately come across
the angry luddite who, armed with nothing more than Facebook Science and
completely made up facts, will try to `educate’ you about the horrors of EV
ownership.
Read some of the most common anti-EV arguments on the following pages.
You have been warned!
EYVosuicnawna’ttderri!ve
FAKE NEWS! You cannot drive ANY car in water beyond its designed limitations.
It is obviously true that water and electricity donot mix but the various
drivetrain components on an EV are far more resistant to, and less susceptible
to, water ingress. For petrol and diesel engines the wading depth (the deepest
water you can safely drive through) is usually the position of the air intake.
For most cars this can be as low as 150-200mm, getting water into a combustion
engine will kill it instantly in most cases. There is no air intake on an
electric vehicle. Unless you drive a vehicle made before the 1990s it will
more than likely be fitted with an ECU and an array of other electrical
components. Getting water into any of these can cause problems so are petrol
and diesel cars better for driving in water? Not at all.
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The EV Bible
FAKE NEWS! The National Grid should know what they are talking about on this
sbTwehiaetcbEhleleestcottorcioeclpeGecrtirifdiecvwveoerhnyi’octnlees
subject. They
have stated that
the current electrical consumption for the whole of the UK is 16% lower than it was in 2002. If every
single vehicle was replaced with an EV it would increase demand on the National Grid by just 10%.
So we wouldn’t even be going back to 2002 levels, and the system coped quite happily then.
Ealreecttroiocevxepheincslievse
FAKE NEWS! The price for EVs is dropping
Electricity isn’t
clean, it burning
involves coal!
significantly with a starting price of less
than £18,000. For many manufacturers the
FAKE NEWS! For a continuous two
like-for-like cost of petrol and EV models
month period in 2020, UK power generators burnt no
is closing. So while it might cost an extra
coal at all. Fossil fuels (both Coal and Gas combined)
£5,000 for an equivalent EV, that cost would
account for around one-third of all electricity
be recouped very quickly once the higher
generated and the level is constantly falling as
costs of petrol and diesel consumption are
renewable sources increase. A number of utility
factored in. VolksWagen recently confirmed
companies provide only green energy which is 100%
that the `break even’ point of buying a VW
from renewables. So if you switch to these your EV
ID 4 instead of a similar spec VW Golf was
will not require coal to be burnt at all. Additionally if
four years. After that the Electric Vehicle is
your property is fitted with solar panels your EV could
cheaper in every measurable way.
be charged without
Electric vehicles don’t have enough range relyingonanypower from the grid at all.
FAKE NEWS! Everyone seems to get hung up on the range of an EV. How far it can go between charges, and simply because a few cannot manage the same 400 miles that a tank of petrol gives them they dismiss EVs as useless. But almost no- one needs to drive 400 miles non-stop every day. Government statistics show that the average car journey length for the UK as a whole is 8.5 miles or 22minutes and the average main family car travels 37 miles each day, with second cars only travelling 11 miles. So why demand a 400 mile range? A 200 mile range could be perfectly adequate for a whole
week of driving after a single charge. Even if you do need to travel 400 miles in an EV with only 150 mile range all it would take is two or three stops of 30 minutes or so while connected to a rapid charger to get you to your destination, about the same time as going to the loo and buying a coffee from a service station. There is no need to fully recharged the batteries to 100% every time, in fact many experts even recommend against it. You can charge to 80% very quickly with many fast chargers to get you another 100 miles or so on your journey.
The EV Bible
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HYDRA EVC
EVs more
pporlolduutcieon
FAKE NEWS! Nothing man-made can ever be totally pollution-free but over the total lifetime of use an EV is a clear winner compared to petrol or diesel power. While there are concerns around the extraction and processing of raw materials such as lithium, the entire industry is adapting and improving. Most responsible manufacturers are working hard to ensure that their production facilities are as close as possible to zero-emission. Encouragingly the EV world has embraced the concept of sustainability and recycling. Not just the batteries and electric motors but also the body panels, interior trim and other components are designed and manufactured with an eye on being recycled later. The biggest boost to pollution reduction with an EV is removing the pollution from congested urban and suburban areas which creates a better living environment for everyone.
EVs are a huge fire risk
FAKE NEWS! There have been many media reports of EVs bursting into flames’ but this is mostly down to media bias. Petrol powered cars also
burst into
flames’ and at a much higher rate than EVs. The regional Fire Services in the
UK reported a total of over 100,000 vehicle fires for 2018 equating to
roughly 300 every day! and resulting in the deaths of over 100 people. Fires
in EVs are normally as a result of a `foreign object’ impacting or piercing
the battery pack. Even so, the design of a battery pack is more
compartmentalised with each cell being separated and insulated from
neighbouring cells. While it is true to say that chemical fires are more
difficult to extinguish, particularly when fire trucks are only fitted with
water or foam to supress a fire, it is a slower burn which allows occupants
and bystanders to evacuate the area. A petrol tank can explode into flames
very quickly but a battery fire is slow to start and also increases in
intensity very slowly. Simply put, if EVs presented the kind of fire risk that
the media alludes to, they simply would not be passed as safe to drive on the
roads.
EthVrebeaytetearrisesanndeecdanrenpoltabcienrgeecvyecrleyd!
FAKE NEWS! Most manufacturers are offering battery warranties of around 7 years or 100,000 miles. The latest lithium-ion batteries should far outlast the life of an EV, even allowing for an amount of degradation. When you hear people saying the battery lost 20% of its charge power in just a few short years it is worth asking if they are referring to older metal-hydride cells instead of lithium-ion. The degradation of the old-style batteries is a known
limitation but, in reality, over a ten year period should be no more-or-less than the loss of performance and economy in an average petrol or diesel powered vehicle. Even when they are no longer suitable for powering an EV the batteries can be recycled, often by being used for different electricity storage systems like domestic solar power installations, or being stripped down to extract the base components. No cars, whether EV, petrol or diesel end up in landfill.
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The EV Bible
Living with an EV
Is an Electric Vehicle suitable for everyday use? The question that every EV
owner has asked themselves before buying their EV and finding that it is very
easily done!
We’ll look at several areas where people seem to have the most concerns and
try to cut through to the reality rather than the myths (see the previous
section for our rebuttals to the most common Fake EV News stories and other
misinformation you’ll see on social media).
· Hybrid or BEV (Battery Electric Vehicle)? · Running Costs for an Electric
Vehicle · Buying a used EV · EV Charging Times · EV Range Anxiety · Servicing
an Electric Vehicle · EVs and Recovery Companies
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Hybrid or BEV
While there is obviously still some anxiety about adopting a fully electric
mode of transport the hybrid’ option looks like a sensible compromise. But, in reality it is just that: a compromise. You get the convenience of a petrol or diesel engine so your driving habits do not need to change all that much, but with the added advantage of being able to use cheaper and cleaner electric power to take over the most fuel-consuming activities, like driving in slow or stop-start traffic or moving off from a stand-still, all of which are easily undertaken with battery power. However, the electric-only range is probably going to be very short, 20-40 miles at most, and the small petrol engine (there are very few diesel-powered hybrids) will not give you a very exciting driving experience. Additionally the servicing costs for hybrid cars can be higher than either electric-only or petrol-only as the system is more complex than either of the other vehicles so servicing can take longer. Hybrids themselves can be further segregated into
mild-hybrid’, self charging-hybrid’ and
plug-in-hybrid’.
The EV industry and wider environmental community do not really consider mild-
hybrids and self-charging-hybrids to be much of an environmental benefit at
all. While they may reduce the overall fuel consumption of the vehicle they
still operate 100% on diesel or petrol. The on-board batteries are simply
charged by the combustion engine which can then give a `boost’ to the vehicle
when required.
Plug-in hybrids will have a larger battery bank to give you that 20-40 mile
electric driving range. This could be enough for a family to use as an
everyday vehicle in electric-only mode but still have the option for the
occasional longer journeys with petrol.
As the plug-in hybrid has a smaller battery it can usually be charged
overnight via a simple three-pin domestic socket. However we would always
suggest it be charged from a dedicated chargepoint as this offers a much safer
method of charging and can be controlled and monitored via a smart-phone app.
NOTE: If you do acquire and install a dedicated chargepoint for your plug-in
hybrid vehicle it might only be capable of 3.6kW charging (using a 16amp
supply from your fusebox).
This is perfectly adequate for a hybrid vehicle but if you later switch to a
fully electric vehicle it could struggle to fully recharge overnight on the
slower 3.5kW capacity. A 7kW charger should be considered the minimum capacity
for a home charger.
If you want to delve even further into the world of hybrids there’s another
system which only uses electric-powered motors to drive the vehicle and the
petrol engine is utilised simply as a range extender’. In effect the petrol engine just operates as a battery charger to keep the battery topped up. You do get the main benefits of the electric system with this instant power and smooth driving experience but it is not that
green’ and still produces
pollution at the point of driving.
A fully electric vehicle gives you the satisfaction of knowing that you’re not
using petrol or diesel, there’s no pollution at the point of driving and it is
far cheaper per mile to use. If you further opt for an energy supplier which
provides energy from renewable sources or you have solar panels at home your
vehicle can be 100% green and sustainable. (Note that not all EV chargers can
be powered by domestic solar installations).
The trade-off is that your driving habits may need to adjust and adapt to
accommodate charging your vehicle at home and breaking up longer journeys with
more pit-stops to top up the battery.
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EV Running Costs
There should be no doubt in anyone’s mind that running an electric vehicle can
be considerably cheaper than a similar petrol or diesel powered car and while
there are several factors which affect the calculations, running on electric
will almost always be cheaper.
Calculating the running cost of a petrol or diesel car is fairly easy and
predictable. You probably know what your average fuel consump-
tion is and you know how much your fuel costs as you fill up at the forecourt.
You’ll know roughly what your mileage is over any given period and how long
that tank fill-up will last.
This is something most drivers have been doing for years and is second nature.
But with electric vehicles the parameters have changed so we need to change
the way we look at running costs. Working out how much it costs to fully
charge your vehicle’s battery is easy enough, just multiply the battery
capacity in kW by the cost of the electric in kWh.
So if your vehicle battery has a total
capacity of 50kW and your energy supplier charges 30p per kWh then it is 50 x
30 = 1,500 or £15. If that gives you a range of 180miles, for instance, the
cost per mile is £15/180 = 8p per mile.
That is a very simplistic but easy way to calculate costs. The cost per kWh is
the largest varying cost. You may pay your domestic energy supplier 30p but
plugging into a public charger in a shopping centre car park could cost
anywhere between 40p-80p per kWh.
This doesn’t necessarily mean your running costs are doubled, though, as you
might only plug in for an hour while you’re out shopping then plug in again
when you get home so paying 50p or so isn’t going to break the bank, but it is
worth bearing in mind.
Obviously there are other factors which can affect running costs. Just like
weather, local traffic conditions and driving style will affect petrol
consumption, the same applies to electric. Driving in winter at night with the
heater on will shorten the range compared to driving in daylight in summer
simply because everything is powered from the battery.
Comparing electric vs petrol, even in broadly average terms, show that there
is a huge advantage with electric. If we go back to that example above the 180
miles range cost £15 on electric but with Petrol costing £1.70 per litre (at
the time of writing) a Ford Focus returning 50mpg would use £27.80 in petrol,
and that is being optimistic, frequently driving in traffic or around town is
likely to increase the fuel consumption to around 35mpg which pushes costs up
to £39.70. Other factors to bear in mind when considering electric are things
like road tax, insurance, parking, congestion charges etc. All of these can be
lower for electric cars than similar petrol or diesel models.
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HYDRA EVC
Buying a USED EV
There’s not much difference buying a used EV to buying any used car, the
advice is mostly the same, but with a couple of extra things to add to your
checklist.
SET A BUDGET AND STICK TO IT its easy to get carried away when you set a
budget then see a car that is just a bit over it. Only those with the
strongest will can walk away from a great car at a decent price. But the
further you push the budget envelope the more its going to cost. It sounds
obvious but that’s extra money you’re spending, are you absolutely sure
there’s nothing else available?
DON’T RUSH As above, don’t say yes to the first car you try. Dealers are
well trained in securing the sale, don’t be rushed, don’t listen to all the
stories of “it’ll be sold by the weekend” There is no shortage of used cars.
They all look lovely with a bit of polish and good clean. Have a look at a few
examples and get a proper feel for the market.
INSPECT ALL THE PAPERWORK Check to see how many owners and how long the last
owner had it, if it was just a few months why did they get rid of it? Maybe an
EV wasn’t for them but maybe there was something else you can’t see. If
there’s no paperwork just walk away. Its not worth the risk. You can check MOT
history online (if the car is over 3 years old). This will also have a record
of the mileage at each MOT, does it correspond with the rest of the paperwork?
HAVE A GOOD LOOK AROUND THE CAR EVs are not likely to have been used as
racecars but the smaller examples could have been used as a family runabout.
This doesn’t affect the EV components but it could mean it’s had a few dings
along the way. Look down the length of the car in good light and NOT when it’s
raining. Do the panels match? Does the paint match?
TAKE IT FOR A TEST DRIVE If you can’t take it for a test drive, why not?
Don’t accept excuses from a dealer, you drive it or you walk away, its that
simple.
GET A HPI REPORT for around £20 you can get a full HPI report. We don’t like
spending money we don’t need to but this could be the only way to properly
check the history of a car. For newer models the most important thing is to
check that it is clear of finance. If the previous owner hasn’t fully settled
the finance then they cannot legally sell the vehicle and you might lose the
car with no comeback other than legal action against the seller.
EV Specific checks:
BATTERY HEALTH – The battery and motor are the two most important components
in an EV. All rechargeable batteries degrade slightly over time, this is not
unusual. Depending on which EV you’re buying you should be able to check the
battery health and then find out how that compares to the original `new’
state. Don’t be alarmed if the capacity is lower, just use it as a bargaining
chip with the seller when negotiation the sale. Also check if the battery has
been replaced, whether the original guarantee is transferrable and,
importantly, whether you will actually own the battery: Some early EVs –
notably from Renault and Nissan – only leased the battery to the EV buyer, so
there could be an ongoing rental charge to consider.
ACCESSORIES Make sure you have all the accessories which came with the car
including charging cable, carry-bag and any plug adapters if your EV isn’t the
standard Type-2 charge-plug. A Type-1 to Type-2 adapter could cost up to £100.
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The EV Bible
EV Charging
Times
You may have guessed by now that there are variables which affect every
calculation you might wish to make when considering an Electric Vehicle.
Charging times is no exception.
You will see vehicle manufacturers quoting charging times such as “40 minutes
to charge from 10% to 80%”. Which is actually a very good metric to go by. You
are unlikely to run your EV down to below 10% of remaining capacity and 80% is
more than enough to get you going again. So a 30-40 min downtime for
recharging is acceptable.
However, it is worth looking at the charging RATE which this figure is based
on. The advert will probably state `based on a 100kW Rapid DC Charger’. This
is the type of charger most commonly found on motorway service stations and
other commercial forecourts.
Your home charger will only deliver 7kW from a 240v, 32amp electrical supply,
so the charging time from 10% to 80% is more likely to be 7-8 hours rather
than the 40 mins stated in the advert. The domestic Hydra Zodiac has a power
output of 7kW AC and can run from a standard 240v 32amp supply in private
dwellings.
I might sound silly but the type of electricity plays a big part in the
charging rate:
AC (Alternating Current) or DC (Direct Current). If it is AC then the power
from the charger has to pass through the vehicle’s onboard transformer which
converts it to DC all vehicle batteries are based on DC so an AC supply has
to first be converted to DC. This is quite normal and is the same as how a
wide variety of other domestic electrical devices are powered.
When connected to an AC supply
the vehicle’s onboard transformer is the determining factor that dictates
possible charging rates. So even if you find a charger offering 43kW AC, your
vehicle might limit that charge to 11kW due to the specification of the
transformer.
A charger delivering a DC supply can bypass the onboard transformer and
connect directly to the battery bank, thus allowing more rapid charging.
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This might all look very confusing, even for long standing EV drivers it can be a headache to understand, but it shouldn’t be anything you’ll worry about on a daily basis. If you’re plugged in at home you’ll probably get 7kW AC power taking 7-8 hours to charge your car overnight. If you’re out and about you might make use of a rapid charger but just go for whatever you can find, there’s little benefit in driving around to find a specific charger.
Once you start using public chargers in your area you’ll become familiar with
them, just like you might have favourite petrol stations. On longer journeys
the motorway network is well served with rapid DC chargers which can give you
a boost in a short period of time and get you on your way again.
Locating available chargepoints in your area is made much easier by using any
one of a number of smartphone apps or website. (See page 33 for more
information).
Range Anxiety
Potential EV buyers and a good deal of anti-EV luddites are obsessed with
the potential range of an electric vehicle. This has become known as Range Anxiety’. However if you know how far you can drive on a full charge you can work that in to your journey plans just like you would with a petrol car. The main factor is that recharging takes longer than topping up with petrol but this can also be factored in. You might see people arguing that an EV offering only 150 miles range is
just
not enough’. But this ignores the fact that the average car journey is just
8.4 miles (according to government statistics) and the average family car
covers only 130 miles per week. So going by these figures the EV offering 150
miles range only has to be plugged in once per week.
When travelling on longer journeys – the Luddites seem to be obsessed with
driving
non-stop from London to Cornwall it is now very easy to plan recharging
stops along the way. Everyone on a long journey will need to stop for a toilet
break or cup of tea at some point, so just get used to the idea that these
pit-stops could take a bit longer. Stopping for an hour to recharge is not
that much different to stopping for lunch.
If you imagine a journey of 300 miles, an EV might take 7 hours (5hrs driving
time at an average 60mph plus two one-hour recharging stops) whereas a petrol
car might complete it in 6 hours (the same 5hrs driving time plus two 30
minute toilet and tea breaks).
That extra one hour travelling time is more than made up for by the fact that
it probably cost you £20 in electricity as opposed to £70 in petrol. Even
allowing for buying coffees and lunch you’re still in profit.
As mentioned earlier, what is required is a change in driving habits. Before
you know it, making allowances for these additional recharging stops will
become second nature.
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Servicing an EV
Servicing an EV is similar to any other car but with a few notable
differences. Obviously there are fewer moving parts and components we had to
change every few years, such as cam-belts and fan-belts, just aren’t used at
all, so don’t need replacing.
However most manufacturers quote the same service intervals for EVs as for
petrol cars. This is because our driving habits remain broadly similar even
when driving an EV and we tend to cover the same distances each year, so items
such as tyres, brakes and suspension are subject to the same amount of wear so
need checking at the same intervals.
There has been some discussion regarding brakes on electric vehicles with fake
news stories about them generating more harmful brake dust because EVs tend to
be heavier than petrol cars. However, EVs use regenerative braking for the
vast majority of driving, this means slowing the car down is done by the
electric motors themselves. As this happens the inertia of the vehicle turns
the motors and provides a brief amount of re-charging to the
batteries, just like a dynamo. The traditional brakes systems as used in
petrol cars are purely a backup.
The electric motors used in EVs also have fewer moving components so are less
prone to wear and failure but they do need inspecting at regular intervals, as
do the HT leads connecting the electric components (usually coloured bright
organge). Garages with the necessary equipment can also check the performance
of individual cells in the battery and ensure optimal performance is
maintained.
One area where servicing of EVs is changing is with manufacturers using
`condition-based servicing’. This ignores the regular interval or mileage
based servicing and recommends servicing based on your driving. The vehicle
monitors your vehicle usage, your driving style and the daily road conditions
and will alert you when a service is due. So an enthusiastic or harsh driving
style will mean more servicing. But even if you drive like a saint the
intervals are not likely to be longer than 2-years.
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EVs and Recovery Companies
You may have heard the luddites proclaiming “You can’t tow an EV!”. Well
they’re not wrong, but you cannot tow some petrol cars with automatic
gearboxes or all-wheel-drive systems either!
Recovering your vehicle in the event of a breakdown will be an `all-wheels-up’
affair, so expect your EV to be recovered on a flatbed recovery truck.
This is perfectly normal and is the preferred method of recovery for the vast
majority of recovery companies and garages as it is easier and safer for them
to quickly get you off the road and to safety.
The RAC uses a neat Rapid Deployment
Trailer carried by all of its emergency patrols where a stranded vehicle can
be lifted and towed to safety.
In the event of you running out of charge there are mobile and portable
charging products available which can supply just enough charge to get you a
few miles further down the road and hopefully find an EV chargepoint. Some
recovery vehicles are fitted with a quick-boost system to get you going again,
although the major recovery companies still seem to prefer to tow you to a
chargepoint and get you properly recharged rather than just offer a quick
boost.
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Charging at home
· Choosing an EV charger for home · How much does an EV charger cost? · Choosing an EV charge point installer · EV Charging Tariffs · Solar Power Integration · Bi-directional charging · Two EV Chargers for Two Cars? · No off-street parking? · Can you make money from your EV charger?
Charging your EV at home couldn’t be easier.
There is certainly no shortage of options for installing a chargepoint at home
but there are a few key considerations to be aware of, not just for the
physical installation of a charger but how you’ll use it and other options
which you might not even know about.
Firstly we have to get you connected. We’d recommend a charger with an output
of 7kW (the amount of electrical power it can deliver to your EV). There are
chargepoints which offer 3.5kW output, these are cheaper to use and can run
from a 16amp electrical supply but the lower power rating means it takes
longer to charge. A 7kW charger needs a 32amp supply so would normally be
connected directly to your main household consumer unit (the fusebox) and have
its own fuse.
You can charge your EV using a standard 3-pin plug but it will take around
24hours to fully charge a family saloon. Whereas it would
take 15 hours using a 3.5kW charger and 8 hours using a 7kW chargepoint.
If you only use your EV for a couple of short journeys each day the 3-pin lead
might suffice but we wouldn’t recommend it. Mainly as you have no control over
the charging other than switch it on or off, and you might have to keep a
window open in your house to feed the charge lead through to the nearest plug,
unless you have an external socket or can charge your car in the garage.
Be aware that there are several chargers out there which offer 22kW output
from a `domestic’ looking charger. The Hydra Zodiac 22kW, for instance, is
almost identical to the 7kW residential version. However these all require a
three-phase electrical supply which is only found in commercial properties
like shops and offices and cannot be connected to a single-phase 240v domestic
supply. You cannot just connect a 22kW unit to a 240v supply and hope it will
deliver 7kW instead, the wiring inside is completely different.
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So, you’re looking at a 7kW charger as the best option for home use, what
next?
The choice of charger can be largely down to personal preference. Different
units will offer a variety of options, some are simple plug’n’play while
others require an app on your phone to activate the charging functions and
some have display screens and simple buttons, some look better than others, or
are smaller or thinner, some have the charging plug and lead attached
(tethered) others have separate charging leads or no lead at all, allowing you
to use the lead which was supplied with your EV.
Just on the subject of tethered or unteth-
ered, while it is often easier to use a charger that has a charging lead
attached this does mean that the cable and charging gun are always on show and
could look a bit unsightly unless they are wound up properly every time.
Also, if the charger has a lead attached it will probably be approximately
4-5m long. Fine if your charger is to be installed next to the car parking
space, but what if you have two EVs? Will it reach without moving the cars
around? If you bought an untethered (socketonly) charger at least you have the
option to buy additional or replacement charging leads. Or even buy an extra
long lead, some manufacturers offer leads up to 10m in length.
In reality, each EV charger must all conform to certain standards and be OZEV
approved so it could come down to a simple choice of what you think will look
nice attached to the house.
NOTE: Although all EV chargers have to meet certain standards and offer
certain facilities to be sold and installed in the UK, these standards are
updated frequently. An EV charger which met all the standards last year may no
longer be up to spec., so be aware of buying old stock, even if it is being
offered at a bargain price! Most reputable manufacturers offer remote updates
to the software that operates the charger so some specs can be updated
automatically but other physical characteristics obviously cannot.
Once you’ve decided on the aesthetics (how it looks) we’d recommend that you
choose a charger that is backed by a good warranty and from a company which
offers great customer
service. It should be simple to operate, offering you the option to just plug
your car in and press go with as little fuss as possible. But it should also
have an intuitive smart-phone app which allows you to control the charger, set
up charging functions which take advantage of cheaper electricity (see tariff
driven charging on the following page) and allow you to monitor how much
electricity you’re using and what it is costing you.
Using an app also dictates that your charger should be able to either connect
to your home WiFi network, to Bluetooth on your phone or by ethernet cable
direct to your internet router, the best chargers have all of these options
available. Some even have a built in data SIM too.
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How much does an Electric Vehicle charger cost?
Unfortunately this is not a simple question. You can find the cost of buying
an EV charger just by searching the internet and looking at the various
alternatives from different companies. But whatever you buy will need to be
installed, which can cost more than the purchase price of the EV charger
itself.
A good rule-of-thumb guide is to expect to pay between £500-£800 for a single
output domestic 7kW charger. The precise specification, as mentioned earlier,
is likely to be similar for all models although there will be some variations.
For this you’d expect to get at least a 3 year comprehensive warranty and an
intuitive smartphone App so that you can monitor and manage the charger
remotely (Even sitting indoors while you monitor your car charging outside is
classed as `remote’ operation).
Don’t be enticed by too-good-to-be-true low prices, as mentioned before, these
units are often old stock, previous models or basic units that mean you have
to pay extra to buy additional components in order to install them. No point
saving money on the charger then paying more for the installation.
As for the installation cost, again this varies according to your exact
requirements. Most Electrical Engineers or specialist EV chargepoint
installers can give you a rough estimate
based on a number of assumptions. These can be things like distance of the EV
chargepoint away from the main consumer unit (fusebox) in the property. Ease
of installing electrical cable. Whether an earthing rod is required. Is the
Fusebox up to date and can it accommodate an additional 32amp circuit for the
charger? Etc.
If the charger is located in the garage a few feet away from the fusebox it is
obviously going to be more straightforward, and less costly, than if the
electrician has to lay 20 metres of cable and upgrade the fusebox.
As a general guide we’d say that you should expect to pay from £500 to £1,000
for installation with an OZEV approved electrician.
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Choosing a charge point installer
Although installing an EV charger is straightforward and should not be a
complex job for any electrician, there are important considerations specific
to EV charging which need to be taken into account.
For this reason we recommend that you employ the services of either an EV
chargepoint specialist or use one recommended by the manufacturers of the
chargepoint you’ve bought. Even if you have a friendly electrician willing to
do the job at mates-rates it might not be the best option if things go wrong.
An EV specialist will not only be able to advise on the best placement for the
charger and accommodate the various characteris-
tics required for long-term and trouble-free charging but they will carry an
EV simulator. This is a piece of equipment which they can plug into the
charger to simulate the charging of an EV to fully test that it operates as
expected, just getting a green `on’ light might not be enough.
A specialist will probably also be able to help you set up your smartphone-app
and get you charging straight away. This might require connecting with your
home WiFi network, running a cable to your internet router, or installing a
mobile data SIM card. These are tasks which, while not being complicated, not
all electricians will wish to carry out.
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EV Tariffs and off-peak charging times
Most energy suppliers now offer either specific EV tariffs or tariffs which
charge less for electricity used at night. Octopus Energy, for instance offer
an EV specific tariff which charges just 12p per kW for electricity used for
charging an electric vehicle between the hours of 12:30am and 04:30am.
Although this is only a four-hour window it is less than one-third the cost of
electricity on their standard rate tariff and well worth taking advantage of.
Imagine being offered Petrol for 60p/litre instead of £1.80!
NOTE: Other energy suppliers also offer EV specific tariffs which cost less
for a set period of time each night. However, changing supplier at the moment
is tricky because of the Energy Crisis so you might have to wait until things
are more settled before switching.
Obviously you don’t really want to get up at 2am just to plug the car in to
charge so many EV chargers offer tariff-driven charging profiles which
automatically delay charging until the cheap rate kicks in, allowing you to
plug it in when you get home, comfortable in
the knowledge that it won’t start charging until the cheap-rate hours.
The only downside is that this you might need to do a bit of mental arithmetic
to work out if the four, or six hour cheap rate period will be sufficient to
charge your EV fully to use the next day. It also means that you will need a
charger linked with a smartphone app through which you can enter the charge
times and other important data. Simple Plug’n’Play operation might look
appealing but it could end up costing you slightly more in the long run.
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Solar power
integration
Many people like the thought of running their EV on purely renewable energy
for the environmental benefits as well as the reduction in costs charging an
EV using the power generated from your own solar panels is effectively `free’.
The downside to using solar is that the PV panels generate electricity in
sunlight and most people recharge their EV at night when there is no
sunlight. So a solar system with accompanying battery storage could be
required. The battery stores the excess elec-
tricity not used during the day so that it can be used at night.
As the battery storage will also supply the rest of the house you will need to
ensure that the stored energy will be sufficient to both supply the house and
also have enough left to charge the EV. Just adding a larger battery will not
help if the solar PV array cannot generate enough to keep them topped up. More
maths is required to make the necessary calculations but a solar panel
specialist will be able to assist you.
It is important to note that not all EV chargers are compatible with
Solar/Battery systems so it is worth checking the spec if this is a system you
are considering.
Why can’t we just fit solar panels onto the roof of a car?
Well, the roof just isn’t big enough! In April 2022 Mercedes ran a test with
its EQXX car which managed to drive 1,000km on a single charge (621 miles).
That vehicle has solar panels bult into the roof panel but Mercedes boffins
estimated that they provided only enough electricity for 25km or about 2% of
the total power required. We might get there
one day but the current solar PV technology just isn’t up to it.
Bi-directional charging or V2G
Another option which may be of interest to some people is the facility to use
your EV battery to power your house in the event of a power cut from the grid
or bi-directional charging. In a similar way to how a battery can be used to
store power generated from Solar panels then power the house after dark, the
battery in your EV can be used the same way.
Not all manufacturers offer this facility though. Nissan is one car company
which does include Vehicle-to-Grid (V2G) tech in its EVs while some, like
Tesla, intentionally
disable the feature even though it is technically possible.
For people in remote areas it could be a useful insurance against blackouts,
albeit on the understanding that you may not have enough juice to drive your
car in the morning!
At the time of writing, OVO Energy were running a trial to see if customers
could use their EVs to simply `top up’ the power supply to the house or even
export it back to the grid at peak times, then recharge during off-peak times.
Initial findings from OVO suggested a customer could save around £800 per year
on average by using their EV as a supplementary power supply. However to do
this requires the installation of a specific and more expensive – bi-
directional EV charger and an account with an energy company which facilitates
it.
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Two EV Chargers for Two Cars?
Even if you’re only just considering buying your first EV or hybrid there are
already familys out there with multiple EVs so it may not be that far off that
you ask the question “Do I need two chargers?”
There’s no absolute answer but you shouldn’t worry about getting two chargers
installed just because you think you might buy a second EV for domestic use.
There are domestic chargers out there which can be
daisy-chained or even come with two charging cables or sockets but there are
trade-offs to consider.
In the commercial EV market it is not unusual to see dual-output chargers, in
fact there are some chargepoints which offer triple- or quad-output, but these
are always powered by a higher capacity electrical feed. Many offices and
workplaces operate from three-phase 400v electrics which can easily be
utilised to power multiple chargepoints of 7kW or more.
In a domestic or residential building you will almost certainly be limited to
a single phase 240v supply. On a 32amp circuit (eg connect
the charger to its own fuse in the main consumer unit) the most you will get
is 7kW. So daisy-chaining chargers or fitting a dual output EV charger to this
will just limit the charge to 3.6kW per car, therefore doubling the time taken
to charge a vehicle.
Even if you installed two separate EV chargers on separate 32amp circuits you
might not achieve the full 7kW output per charger as the supply to each will
be load-balanced with whatever else is drawing power in the house.
The easiest option is to just organise the charging times between cars and
take turns. Even an EV with a modest 100 mile range could cope with charging
every couple of days when the average daily commute is only 25 miles and the
average individual journey is 8 miles.
So just charge one car one day and the other car the next.
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No off-street
parking?
Many people with no off-street parking are understandably cautious about
switching to an EV because they cannot charge the car at home. But there are
very few houses with a petrol pump on the driveway either and that hasn’t
stopped people buying petrol cars.
OK, so that’s a simplistic answer. In reality it is possible, it just needs a
bit of thought and planning. It might seem like a faff now but it’ll soon
become second-nature.
Many supermarkets and other retailers are installing EV charge points in their
car parks. So too are offices and other workplace premises. So you might be
able to charge your EV for an hour or two while shopping, charge it at work,
while you go for lunch or out in the evening with friends. You’ll just be
choosing a convenient parking spot with an EV chargepoint instead of what’s
closest to wherever you’re going.
You don’t need to fully charge an EV every day, topping up an hour here,
another hour there should be enough to get you through the day. If you’re also
lucky enough to live somewhere that has rapid DC chargers you could get up to
80% full charge in well under an hour!
While you might be paying a bit more per kW compared to charging at home you
also don’t have the cost of installing an EV charger at home either! At an
average cost of £1,000 to £1,500 to buy and install an EV charger you can buy
3,000kW of electricity at 50p per kW, at an average 4miles per kW that’s
enough juice for 12,000 miles. All it takes is a bit more maths and pre-
planning your journeys than you’ve probably been used to.
But even if you’re still not convinced there are some other options worth
exploring to facilitate charging your EV if you have no off-street parking.
If you live in a flat or are renting your property it could be worth
contacting your landlord or building owner to encourage them
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HYDRA ZODIAC 7kW or 22kW output
At home or at the office, the HYDRA ZODIAC is the
perfect EV chargepoint
HYDRA ZODIAC
The HYDRA ZODIAC Electric Vehicle Charger is robust and feature-packed with
a sleek, stylish and unobtrusive design.
· Sleek and aesthetic design · Domestic or commercial application · 7kW output
(Single-phase 230v) · 22kW output (Three-phase 400v) · OCPP 1.6J compliant ·
Type 2 charging socket (untethered) · 4m charging cable (tethered) · IP65
rated · PEN detection, no earthing rod required · WiFi or Ethernet
connectivity · Smart-phone App control or Plug’n’Play · Energy tariff driven
charging times · Wall or pedestal mount
Contactless payment options available
HYDRA ECHO
· Wall or pedestal mount · Aluminium alloy housing · 7kW 240v single-phase ·
22kW 400v three-phase · Type-2 socket (untethered) · 4m charging lead
(tethered) · Ethernet, WiFi or 4G GSM · OCPP 1.6J compliant · IP55 rated · PEN
detection · RFID card access control · Networkable with Hydra-
Cloud monitoring and management tools (option)
HYDRA GENESIS
· Dual Type-2 charging · 7kW / 22kW / 43kW · No earth rod required · Onboard
RCDs · IP55 Rated · OCPP 1.6J compliant · Ethernet, WiFi or 4G
connectivity · 5″ LCD user interface · Fabricated sheet steel · Emergency stop
button · Networkable with Hydra-
Cloud monitoring and management tools (option)
HYDRA APOLLO
· 55″ advertising screen · Dual Type-2 charging · 7kW / 22kW / 43kW · Three-
phase 400v · OCPP 1.6J compliant · Anti-UV protection · IP55 rated · Ethernet,
WiFi or 4G · Emergency stop · PEN protection,
no earth required · Networkable with Hydra-
Cloud monitoring and management tools (option)
01268 205121 | sales@hydraev.co.uk | www.hydraev.co.uk
Can you make money from your EV charger
Yes! We’ve already looked at the option of feeding power from your EV battery
back to the grid. But there’s another option which is potentially much more
lucrative: You can open up your charger for other people to use, and charge
them for the convenience.
There are several smart-phone apps or spin-offs from other apps which allow
you to list your chargepoint location available for other users to make use
of. The methods for taking payment vary, some apps process the payments for
you, others allow you to send a link to your PayPal account. (see next
chapter: Chargepoints, Apps, Plugs and Leads)
Normally a domestic chargepoint will be `locked’ to prevent strangers from
plugging in without your permission but, depending on the model of charger you
have and which app you use you can temporarily grant access to other users or
unlock it. The app should also monitor how much power is used and the length
of time the charger is being used.
Another option being offered by one company is to have an EV charger fitted at
your property for free on the understanding that you make it available for
commercial vehicle drivers to use. The theory is that as more companies switch
to EV for delivery vans the more they will need to charge them during the day.
Also, many commercial drivers take their vans home at night but may not have
access to their own EV charger so they will need to plug the van in at night.
Obviously this will mean that you need to leave your driveway accessible
during the times agreed but everything is arranged and booked through an app
so there’s little chance that someone will be knocking on your door demanding
you move your car late at night.
to get EV chargepoints installed. The government has an entire department for
managing the EV charging infrastructure: The Office for Zero Emission Vehicles
or OZEV. This agency distributes grants to cover or subsidise the cost of
installing EV chargepoints.
In recent years private home owners could claim up to £350 towards the cost of
installing an EV charger but now the emphasis is towards commercial and rented
properties. If you rent a property you can apply for this OZEV grant yourself
(assuming you have a parking space) or the landlord can apply for a grant to
get multiple EV chargepoints installed for the use of multiple tenants. So get
in touch with your landlord or the management company today.
Local councils can also claim grants towards the installation of on-street EV
charging facilities. You may have seen these already in the form of
bollardsized totems next to parking spaces where residents can charge their
EVs. Local councils are notoriously slow at getting things like this organised
so they will need `encouraging’. Don’t be shy, contact the planning office,
the local councillors or even the people who stood for election against the
local councillors at the last local election and get them to campaign on your
behalf. There is free money there, they just need to claim it!
Finally, get your boss to think about it. OZEV provides grants for commercial
and workplace locations too. If the company you work for charges you for
charging your EV while you’re in the office hopefully they won’t charge you
TOO much they could recoup the cost of installation very quickly once you
take into account the grant money too.
It’s not as easy as applying for a library card, this will take some work and
determination but the more people speak up the less excuse that landlords,
councils and companies will have to say “There’s no call for it”.
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Chargepoints, Apps, Plugs and Leads
Anyone just venturing into the world of EV ownership can find the steep
learning curve a bit bewildering. Just rocking up to a petrol station and
filling up was complicated only by the choice of cheeky Mars Bar or Twix as
you queued to pay for the fuel.
Now you have to factor in things like charging times, battery range and remem-
bering to plug it in overnight ready for the morning commute. On top of all that there’s a whole new world of smart-phone apps, charging leads and charging gun plug types. But these shouldn’t complicate things and the various apps make ownership and driving an EV much simpler and more enjoyable.
In this chapter: · EV plug types · SmartPhone Apps · Make it pay for itself
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Let’s start with
plug types…
For the vast majority of EV owners in the UK and Europe, there’s nothing to
worry about. You’ll be provided with a Type-2′ or
Mennekes’ charging cable,
even Tesla now use Type-2 and almost every home chargepoint is Type-2
compatible so you just plug one end into your car and the other into the
charger.
There are some oddities to be aware of. Early EVs used different plugs before
the manufacturers mostly adopted the Type-2 standard almost ten years ago.
Japan and China have their own favourite plugs, but unless you have bought an
import you shouldn’t have a problem. In any case there are adapters available.
Just to complicate things slightly there are two different Type-2 plugs, one
for home charging or any chargepoint hooked up to an AC electrical supply
and one for rapid charging, usually referred to as a CCS charger. See the
illustration right. It is simply a Type-2 charger with an extra couple of
contacts to facilitate rapid DC charging.
Where you might find a public charger with a CHAdeMO plug you may also find a
suitable adapter or choose to carry your own. Chargepoints with CHAdeMO
connectors are normally the rapid DC chargers found at motorway service
stations.
That’s all a long-winded way of saying “You probably have nothing to worry
about!” so just use the cable that came with your car or use the cable and
plug provided by the public chargepoint you pull up to.
If you want to get technical there are different types of cable (the
electrical cable which connects the plug to the socket) but, unless you really
want to know the specifics you shouldn’t even bother looking into it.
In essence it is the same as any other cable used in your home, a higher power
rating and/ or thicker cable will be required for higher powered output
chargers. For 99% of EV owners, just use the cable you’re given by the vehicle
manufacturer or chargepoint manufacturer.
Type 2 AC
(Mennekes)
CCS2 DC
CHAdeMO DC
Tesla
(Outside UK & EU)
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Smart-phone Apps
The ubiquitous smart-phone has become such an integral part of our lives that
is should come as no surprise that EV charging relies on smartphone apps just
as much, if not more, than any other activity you’ll get involved with.
From managing and monitoring your home EV charger to finding available public
chargepoints and from plotting a driving route to encompass as many
chargepoints as possible to paying for using those charging sessions en route,
everything relies on a smartphone app.
Almost every domestic chargepoint manufacturer has their own app which you
must download and install to monitor and control your charger. But unless you
use multiple chargers, in reality you’ll just download and use the app they
recommend.
When it comes to using public chargers,
however, things get a bit more complicated. Just like car parking apps you’ll end up saving a small selection to your phone to make sure you can connect to all the various chargers you are likely to use. BP, Shell, Gridserve, Allego, Ecotricity are just a few of what you might come across – a quick search on Google Play found 30 different apps! Plus the likes of Tesla have their own built into the car infotainment system.
The best known and most useful independent app is ZAP-MAP. This collates the details for over 15,000 EV public chargepoints, listing information such as availability, type of charging plug, fees, whether it is actually working or not. It also has the ability to plot a journey split up into sections where you can recharge along the way. It is actually a very clever mapping tool which plots the route depending on your vehicle specification (battery size and range) and allows you to specify how much battery life you’re prepared to go down to before you must stop to recharge. The downside is that the best features of Zap-Map require a paid subscription. There are currently three levels of membership: Free, £30/year and £48/year with the latter offering all of the bundled facilities and no adverts. If you drive a lot and use public chargers a lot then it will be worth it for the equivalent of 92p/week.
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Make it pay
The interesting new-ish development for people with EV chargers at home, as
mentioned in the previous chapter, is the option of allowing other EV drivers
to charge their vehicle using your charger, obviously in return for suitable
payment.
Zap-Map has this feature built in, although it is currently a fairly clunky
add-on. The company Co-Charger (www. co-charger.com) was established with this
sole purpose in mind so their app and the way it works is a much sleeker
offering.
Just Park the app which allows people
to rent out their driveways as private temporary car parking space has an off-
shoot called JustCharge (www.justpark.com) which does the same thing as Co-
Charger. As their business model was already established and just adapted for
EV charging rather than parking it is a very good option to consider.
Obviously this does mean that you have to make your charger and driveway
available for others to use so possibly not an option if you have one space
and need that for your own car.
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Workplace and Commercial Charging
For many people with no off-street parking the option to recharge their EV at
work looks like a great solution. If you’re parked up most of the day, or
maybe just a few hours, then even a 7kW chargepoint could fully recharge the
average family saloon before you clock off.
An EV with a 50kW battery will take around 7 hours to fully recharge from 0%
to 100% on a 7kW outlet, but you’re hardly ever going to be completely empty.
A 7kW chargepoint can add 20-30 miles of range per hour. A 22kW chargepoint
the type most often installed at workplace locations could treble that range
per hour, but only if your EV can accommodate the higher charging power.
As we have mentioned elsewhere in this guide, most family EVs are actually
limited to 11kW AC charging power, even if connected to 22kW AC. If that is
the case with your car then you could look at add around 40 miles range for
each hour you are plugged in.
For employers the more affordable 7kW chargepoints seem to make the most sense
for people who work in the office all day. A higher powered chargepoint will
re-charge faster but if the car doesn’t need to move then the faster charging
times would be redundant.
Faster chargepoints do make more sense, however, if they are to be used for
staff who won’t be on site all day or who need to recharge delivery vans. As
stated above a 22kW chargepoint could add 40-50 miles range to a vehicle
during a lunch break.
Delivery companies or other businesses with a fleet of vehicles might look at
installing faster DC chargers. These can typically add 100+miles of range in
around 30 minutes. The perfect solution for companies who operate a local
fleet and need to return to base frequently to restock or collect more
shipments for delivery.
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Free or paid-for access?
Securing access to your office EV charger with a Keyfob or RFID Card
There is no doubt that installing EV charging facilities in a workplace car
park will be of benefit to staff and probably the logistics and delivery
departments too. But how do you make sure that only those authorised to do so
will be charging their EVs?
As the take up of Electric Vehicles continues apace the demand for EV
chargepoints in the office car park is also increasing. Government grants are
still available for companies looking to install EV chargers which will go
towards both the cost of the charger and its installation (see OZEV website
for more details), so it makes sense for companies to at least get the ball
rolling ahead of the 2030 deadline for cut-off of petrol or diesel vehicles.
Controlling the access to these EV chargepoints can be achieved in a few
different ways so the only real decision to make is whether to provide EV
charging as a free employee perk or charge for use.
charging facilities are activated.
· SmartPhone App Charging functions can be controlled by those with the
necessary App on their phones.
· Pay as you go charging Usually requires a card payment or contactless
payment terminal fixed to the chargepoint.
Plug’n’Play charging
Although most EV chargers have the clever management and access facilities
built in there’s nothing to stop someone setting up an EV chargepoint as an
open’ plug’n’play charger. The
always on’ facility is quite safe, most EV
chargers have a standby power usage as low as 2w when not charging.
However we would recommend only doing this if you do not need to monitor
individual usage (you can still monitor overall statistics) and your car park
is secure or closed out of office hours to prevent unauthorised usage by
people outside your organisation.
RFID Cards or Keyfobs
Options for EV charging in the workplace:
· Simple Plug’n’Play use Just park up, plug the EV in and start charging.
· RFID cards or Keyfobs The employee swipes the card or keyfob across the
reader built into the EV chargepoint and
The simplest method of restricting access to an EV charger to only authorised personnel is by using an RFID card or Keyfob. This is the same technology as used in some company ID passes. The credit card sized RFID card is simply `swiped’ or held near to the reader on the EV chargepoint to unlock the device.
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The benefits of an RFID card is that the cards are individually identified so
whatever method is used to remotely monitor and manage the device can also
identify users and log individual power consumption and other statistics such
as total usage, time connected and disconnected, etc.
This data can then be used to charge the employee for the usage, if required,
or simply to generate reports relating to CO2 savings to be included in an
annual Sustainability Report.
Smartphone App
Almost all EV chargepoints have an associated SmartPhone App which allows the
user to set up charging sessions and log usage and power consumption etc. In
the workplace some of these apps are not suited to `Group’ usage as they are
designed for single users.
This may be perfectly adequate for small companies with only a few EV drivers
but for larger organisations a more commercially focussed SmartPhone App
linked to a powerful back-office platform may be the answer.
These cloud-based platforms allow organisations to monitor their entire EV
charging facility from one chargepoint to a nationwide network, providing
realtime data on power
usage, peak usage, employee usage, etc. The associated app can also be used by
employees to access the EV facilities.
Pay as you go charging.
For companies looking to recoup the installation cost and power usage and
maybe even provide a useful additional revenue stream there is the option of
fitting a contactless payment terminal to an EV chargepoint.
These work just the same as parking meters in public carparks, the user simply
plugs in their EV, swipes their credit or debit cards and starts charging. The
device communicates with the EV charger and charges the user for the time
and/or power consumed.
Actual rates to be charged can be set by the company which owns the EV
chargepoint and everything is managed and monitored via the back-office
platform. The contactless payment terminals installed by providers such as
Hydra EVC can also accept Apple Pay and Google Pay.
Companies looking to generate additional income can leave the EV chargers with
contactless payment terminals `Open’ for use by anyone, including the general
public, to earn income from the chargepoint out of office hours and at
weekends.
NOTE: If your company or organisation intends to invoice or bill people for electricity used then the chargepoint MUST contain an MID certified meter.
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EVs for business
It is estimated that there are over 700,000 company cars in the UK so
encouraging them into Electric Vehicles could go a long way towards fulfilling
net-zero targets.
If an employee is allowed to use a company car for personal use, it is classed
as a benefit in kind by HMRC (BIK) and the employee pays tax based on the BIK
rates.
Traditionally the rates have been skewed to encourage use of vehicles with
lower CO2 emissions. As EVs do not emit CO2 new figures were introduced. The
current BIK rate for Electric Vehicles is 2% (to be reviewed 2025) so if your
company EV has a list price of £30,000 the annual taxable value would be £600.
(Different rates apply in Scotland).
To further incentivise employers the government allows the full cost of an EV
to be deducted from pre-tax profits and no Vehicle Excise Duty is payable. So
switching to EVs saves the Employer and the Employee money.
Commercial EVs
The market for eLCVs is growing massively with some manufacturers reporting
annual sales in the thousands. While still way behind diesel powered vans it
is growing exponentially as more models are launched and the available range
is improved.
Although companies such as Vauxhall, Renault, Nissan and SAIC Maxus have all
released commercial vehicles running pure electric drivetrains everyone was
waiting to see what Ford did with the Transit. They did not disappoint!
The king of the road for commercial users for many years, the whole Ford
Transit lineup is the market leaders in most segments from owner-operator
businesses to nationwide fleets.
Looking at the eTransit Custom it offers an expected 225mile range and the
ability to also run tools and equipment from the vehicle’s main battery,
making it perfect for Bob-theBuilder users. Recharging can be carried out via
a standard domestic 7kW chargepoint adding 20-30 miles range per hour or
via a 150kW rapid charger to recharge back to 80% in around 30-40 mins.
Competing with the Transit is the Vauxhall Vivaro. Currently the best-selling
eLCV in the UK. The range is not quite as good as the Transit with between
145-205 miles depending on spec but it costs a fair bit less too.
The relative newcomer to the LCV sector and taking the market by storm is SAIC
Maxus. Previously known as LDV the brand was bought by SAIC the company
which also owns MG and offers the eDeliver-3, eDeliver-9 as well as the T90
EV pickup.
The eDeliver-3 offers almost a ton of payload and 215miles range while the
eDeliver-9 offers 1.3 tons of payload for a similar range. The ultimate choice
for a lot of businesses will be the lease terms and any other offers at the
time of purchase. Once The
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Ford Transit variants hit the showrooms other manufacturers are likely to
offer good deals on their competing vans.
Electric HGV
The possibility for a useful Electric HGV is getting closer by the day. At the
moment there are a couple of specialist companies, such as VOLTA TRUCKS, which
are developing pure electric HGVs from the ground up.
Volta has already gained a foothold into the UK market with the world’s first,
purpose built 16-tonne truck. It has won a contract to be the sole provider
for London’s prestigious Regent Street shops. To cut down on delivery vans and
emissions the landlord managing the whole estate requires that deliveries are
dropped at an out-of-town hub and delivered to Regent Street en-masse by their
own trucks.
The 125mile range of the Volta is perfect for this kind of work and provides
emission-free delivery. DAF has a range of electric HGVs offering up to
300miles range. The infrastructure to support recharging of these will need to
be installed at delivery hubs and other dedicated chargepoints but the future
looks good for electric haulage.
VW I.D. Buzz
The recently launched I.D. Buzz from VW is a bit of a strange beast. Following
the success of the relaunched VW Beetle the I.D. Buzz hopes to trade on the
legendary reputation and attraction of the old VW combi van and Camper, many
millions of which were built over the decades.
VW stated they were making a new version of the van but offering it in both
people-carrier and van options was unexpected. The VW T-series vans are widely
used by businesses as commercial vehicles but probably more recognisable as
camper vans and day vans with a myriad of outdoor equipment tied to the roof:
bikes, surfboards, etc.
The Commercial variant of the I.D. Buzz is a stunning looking vehicle which
still offers practicality for the user, including the proposed 258mile range.
While The T-series is still available, and with electric options, cost-
conscious commercial operators might choose to stick with that, but those
looking to make
an impact and get recognised may consider the higher cost of the I.D. Buzz
will be worthwhile.
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Towing with an EV
Looking at the specification for some electric vehicles you could easily come
to the conclusion that EVs cannot tow. This is due to the very low towing
weight limits quoted for quite a few EV models.
The vast majority of manufacturers seem to have opted to quote the lowest
possible towing weight of 750kg this roughly equates to a small box trailer
filled with camping gear.
There is no real technological reason for such low towing weights other than
the effect it could have on regenerative breaking (see next page). An electric
motor has maximum torque at all speeds so it should be perfect for getting a
heavy load moving. The extra weight of an average EV, compared to a similar
sized petrol-powered vehicle, would also suggest that they are safer for
towing a heavy trailer or caravan.
The main reason for the lower towing limits is purely down to the effect that
towing has on battery range and that manufacturers have not put the vehicle
through the homologation process for certified towing limits, probably on the
assumption that very few people will actually tow with one so why bother?
Towing a heavy load will reduce the available range, just as it would consume
more petrol. Electric vehicle range has been a touchy subject so manufacturers
have taken
the easy route of quoting lower towing limits rather than address the issue of
reduced range. Some vehicles only have a 200mile range to begin with, so
reducing this by half would obviously place harsh limits on holiday trips with
a caravan.
What this does mean is that the market for EVs capable of towing the larger
family caravans, or horse boxes is fairly limited. There are a few models
which offer towing weights heavier than 750kg but it is still worth checking
carefully. Even a 1,200kg towing limit could drastically reduce your caravan
choice once you allow for equipment, passengers and supplies.
The Polestar 2 (main photo) is a rare vehicle in the EV sector as it offers a
1,500kg towing limit generous for a mid-sized family car and can even be
specified with a towbar from new. Volvo/Polestar obviously set out to make it
a capable towing unit right from the design stage.
Don’t assume manufacturers offer the same specification across the range: The
Tesla Model X offers a towing limit of 2,250kg which opens up your choices
quite nicely but at a hefty cost of over £100,000 for the vehicle. The new
Model Y costs half this starting from £51,000 but the towing weight of
1,500kg.
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REGENERATIVE BRAKING
Electric Vehicles make use of regenerative braking to recharge the battery
momentarily when the brake is pressed or, in some cases, when you lift off the
accelerator. Instead of actually applying the brakes the power to the motor is
cut and this slows the vehicle. The inertia or kinetic energy of the car
forces the motor to turn and this is converted to energy which tops up the
battery. In a towing situation a heavy load drastically increases the overall
weight of a car and trailer or car and caravan combination. Using regenerative
breaking in this scenario can overload the motor leading to more energy being
produced than the electrical systems can handle.
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Driving an EV
Abroad
Charging an EV abroad is really no different to any other car but there are
some additional considerations to be aware of.
Firstly you should make yourself aware of the driving regulations for
whichever country you’re travelling to or through. Each has different laws and
requirements about what should be carried in the car. Things like Hi-Vis
vests, spare bulbs, first aid kit etc are all good things to have but whereas
it is only advisory to carry these in the UK it is mandatory in some EU
countries.
The RAC has good general advice on its website, including local requirements:
https:// www.rac.co.uk/drive/travel/driving-in-europe/ checklist/
As most EVs are still considerably more expensive than their petrol
equivalents the finance method used to buy them may also affect your travel
arrangements. If you lease the vehicle, for instance, the leasing company is
the registered keeper and you should get permission from them to travel
abroad.
This is particularly important if you have acquired your EV through a Salary
Sacrifice Scheme which are used by companies for their employees to own a new
EV. These have become very popular in recent years as an alternative to
company cars, but they are still leased vehicles so there’s a bit of extra
admin to do before boarding the ferry.
You will need a Vehicle on Hire Certificate (VE103) and a letter of authority
from your lease company. This also applies to hire cars, always check with the
hiring company about their restrictions and levels of cover.
You will also need to check your insurance policy, you might be covered
automatically for up to 90 days travel outside the UK but it might only be on
a third-party basis.
Similarly, for European Breakdown many recovery companies may have limits on
the cost of recovering the vehicle back to the UK in the event that it cannot
be repaired finding a fault
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with the EV motor, battery or charging system will mean the choices for
getting your EV repaired will be more limited. If the recovery company deems
it too expensive to recover back to the UK in the event of no repair, they
might just leave you stranded always check the small print.
That’s all the warnings out of the way, if you still want to travel abroad
there’s nothing else to stop you.
Charging networks.
We get used to looking out for certain chargepoint locations, logos and
branding for the well known UK chargepoint operators. When you travel abroad
very few of these will be instantly recognisable, although Shell and Ionity do
operate across the EU.
It is estimated that there are over 250,000 Fast chargepoints in Europe and
around 50,000 rapid chargers. Their location will be similar to the spread in
the UK, more in urban areas and major transport links, fewer in out of the way
towns.
The larger companies to look for are IZIVIA (part of EDF) which operates over
100,000 charging locations. The company allows the purchase of a pass which
can be used across the whole network. ALLEGO, IONITY and FRESHMILE are other
networks to look for.
PLUGSURFING operates an App with a subscription which allows access to
chargepoints across Europe operated by Allego, EnBW, Eon, Innogy, IONITY and
Vattenfall. Other services worth considering all of which are free to join
are ELECTRIC JUICE, SHELL and BONNET.
And don’t forget the supermarkets like LIDL, you’ll find one in every town and
a huge number of them have EV chargepoints.
Overnight Stay
If you need to charge your EV overnight then luckily the booking services such
as AirBnB, Hotels.com, Booking.com and Expedia.com all allow you to filter
accommodation to view only those destinations with EV charging facilities.
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Converting older cars to electric
While the early focus for mainstream manufacturers has been on developing new
electric models there is a growing market in converting older petrol or diesel
cars to battery power.
It’s actually not a new concept, enthusiastic DIY engineers have been swapping
engines for batteries and motors for a long time. While in the past these may
have been in the form of banks of standard 12v car batteries, there is now a
huge market in the resale and salvage of accident damaged electric vehicles
where the EV components are stripped from a vehicle and transplanted into
another.
For cars with an ECU (the electronic brain) that controls everything from the
fuel/air mix in the engine to the heater controls, transplanting an EV
battery/motor setup can be problematic. The ECU will be looking for and
monitoring signals and readings from sensors all over the vehicle, such as
monitoring the exhaust gasses, for instance, so removing the exhaust will
confuse the ECU which could affect other components in the vehicle.
For older pre-1990s vehicles this is actually an easier process than for more
modern cars as there are very few, if any, electronic components in these
cars. The older cars also won’t have those sensors communicating with the ECU.
In these cars the EV transplant is simply treated as a different drivetrain,
the rest of the vehicle is `dumb’ so is unaffected.
While some specialist companies will certainly have the knowledge and
experience to deal with and reprogram ECU systems it is far easier if these
were not there in the first place.
New classics
Companies such as Lunaz in the UK will take an already valuable vehicle and
rebuild it onto an EV platform. They offer new’ Jaguars, Rolls Royces, Bentleys and Range Rovers which have been completely rebuilt but retain the look and feel of the original from the 40s, 50s or 60s but with a hefty price tag. A good way to preserve the useful longevity of a vehicle but not one for the purists (some specialists do offer to preserve the original petrol/diesel drivetrain for you should you wish to go back to the bad old days later). The company
Electric Classis Cars’ may be more familiar as it was featured in
a popular TV series highlighting the diverse range of vehicles it can convert,
from the tiny Fiat 500 to a Land Rover Defender and everything in between
(search for `Vintage Voltage’ on YouTube or Quest TV channel). ECC will
undertake conversions according to the customers’ requirements, from a basic
powertrain swap to a full restoration.
Spending £30k-£50k on a conversion might
The Lunaz Jaguar XK140 (right) is completely rebuilt from a 1954 original. It leaves the factory as a `new’ model, fully electrified and upgraded to cope with 21st century traffic.
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not appear to make much financial sense, but for those who already own the
vehicle it could still be cheaper than buying a new EV there are not many
new EVs costing less than £30k and they get to keep and enjoy the vehicle
they love for many more years to come.
The DIY approach
It should come as no surprise that there is a sizeable DIY market for
converting older cars. Some of these vehicles only exist today due to the
dedication of classic car enthusiasts and DIY engineers. While the scene is
roughly split between those who view electrification as a complete travesty
which ruins the original vehicle and those who see it as the best way to
preserve the longevity of the car in a way which ensures it can be used for
decades to come.
A good proportion of classic trucks and cars are not driven that far each year
anyway
so being limited to a range of 100-200 miles is not much of an issue. For
these owners it is fairly straight forward to buy something like a Nissan
Leaf, strip it down to remove the electric drivetrain and transplant that into
their classic.
The earliest Leaf was launched in 2010 so there are a fair number of still
running but very affordable examples around.
Other convertors go down the Tesla route. The battery banks, motors and other
components from Teslas are very easy to obtain, obviously more expensive than
the Nissan Leaf but offering more power and a longer range too.
Then there are the semi-pro engineers who are able to design the entire system
themselves, choose the individual components from multiple sources and build
the vehicle to their precise specification. Whichever camp you might fall into
there are numerous resources online and groups on Facebook
where you can discuss your ideas and get inspiration from others.
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Anatomy of an EV
The structural design of most EVs resembles that of a skateboard, having a completely flat floor housing the batteries and a wheel at each corner. The body is supported on this. Manufacturers often adopt a `platform’ approach to car design where the main structure underpinning a vehicle remains the same for a number of models.
The Volkswagen Group, for instance, have the MEB platform which is used for
the Volkswagen ID3 and ID4, Seat El Born, Audi Q4 e-tron and Skoda Enyaq.
The illustration used here shows a generic design with the components in their
`normal’ position. Obviously this changes between vehicles and the precise
layout will vary.
Electric power steering is nothing new, even in ICE cars but more common in Electric Vehicles. Sensors calculate the amount of force being applied by the driver and translate that to the steering mechanism. One criticism of this is the lack of `feel’ for the driver. More sophisticated systems can be used in higher value performance cars which do add more tactile response for the driver.
An EV still requires a cooling system. The temperature of the batteries needs to be maintained at a steady level. The motor may also need to be cooled depending on the specification of the EV. The liquid in the cooling system can also be fed through a heater matrix, much like an ICE vehicle to heat the interior of the car.
Electric motor and gearbox. The electric motor is up to three times more efficient in generating propulsion than an ICE unit. Maximum torque is available at all speeds so there is no `lag’ between pressing the accelerator and moving the vehicle forward. The characteristics of an electric motor means that there is only one gear, multiple gears are not required. The gearbox fitted to an EV is usually to reduce the gearing to a manageable level for the drivetrain.
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Battery Management System. The BMS manages the electrical current flow in and out of the battery to protect the battery and extend its life. Every EV is going to have a BMS that is designed specifically for the battery in the car. Thus, modifying the battery or adding a battery could prove to be quite difficult if the BMS is not also modified to compensate.
Charging socket
Onboard battery charger. Most EVs have a battery charger built into the car for AC charging, not DC fast charging. The charger is there to limit the total amount of power going into the battery to avoid damage to the battery or the electrical circuit the charger is plugged into.
Power inverter. When an EV has AC motors, the energy from the battery must be converted in order to be used. The inverter also operates when the car is using regenerative braking converting the alternating current generated by the electric motors into direct current to be stored in the battery.
Battery storage is at the heart of every electric vehicle – well, the floor in this case. Most manufacturers opt to mount the batteries in the floor to keep a low centre of gravity but as the total battery storage is made up of hundreds of smaller cells the batteries can be spread around the vehicle.
EVs do not use brakes in the same way as ICE vehicles. An EV can use Regenerative Braking which effectively uses the motor to slow down the vehicle. This also has the advantage of using the inertia of the vehicle to momentarily provide charge back to the batteries. Standard brakes are only fitted as a backup so do not wear out the same way.
Some things you will not find in an EV:
· Exhaust · Air Intake · Air Filter · Petrol/Diesel Fuel Tank · Spark Plugs ·
Ignition Coils · Timing Belt · Oil Filter, or engine oil · Alternator ·
Starter Motor
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Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to buy the EV charger that the car manufacturer recommends?
No. Electricity doesn’t care what charger it flows through and your EV won’t
know the difference either. All EV chargepoints have to adhere to standards
and almost all use the same Type-2 charging cable. So unless they are bundling
the charger in for free you’ll probably save money by buying your own charger
separately
Can I install my own EV charger?
No, only fully qualified electricians should carry out the installation of EV
charging equipment. Furthermore, we advise that you should only choose OZEV
approved installers.
Do I need Planning Permission to install an EV chargepoint?
In most instances no planning permission is required to install an EV
chargepoint but it is always worth checking with your Local Council Planning
Department to ensure there are no local restrictions in place. See Planning
Portal for more information:
https://www.planningportal.co.uk/ permission/common-projects/electrics/
electric-vehicle-charging-points
Do I need to inform the landlord?
If you live in rented accommodation or rent a commercial property you should
always gain permission of the Landlord and/or leaseholder before installing EV
charging equipment. In fact, the Landlord can probably get a grant to
subsidise the cost of installing an EV charger so it would be worth talking to
them anyway and doing a deal.
Can I get a grant towards buying an EV charger?
Yes and no. The OZEV grants criteria change from time to time so while the
government is still promoting the installation of EV chargepoints and
subsidising some of the costs, those eligible for the grants are limited. At
the time of writing the OZEV grants are being aimed at tenants and landlords
of rented residential properties, companies wanting to install EV chargers in
a workplace car park and local authorities installing public chargers.
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What is the difference between single-phase and three-phase electricity?
Almost all private residential property – and an amount of commercial
properties such as high street shops and offices – operate on the standard
single-phase 240v electrical supply. If this is the case you will be limited
to using a 7kW charger such as the Hydra Zodiac. However, larger shops,
offices, industrial premises and warehouses are powered by a three-phase 400v
supply which will allow for the installation and use of a higher powered EV
charger of 22kW and above.
What is Fast’ or
Rapid’ charging?
The first domestic EV chargers were able to provide 3.6kW output from a 16 amp
supply. While this was better than using a standard 3-pin plug it was hardly
earth shattering performance, but just about acceptable for hybrid cars with
smaller batteries. The advent of 100% electric cars demanded faster charging
and 7kW output became possible from a 240v 32amp feed. In a workplace with
three-phase electrics 22kW iss possible (if your car could take it) so these
became known as `Fast’ chargers. Rapid charging generally refers to anything
between 43kW and 150kW. A DC rapid charger delivering 120kW could recharge a
normal family car from 0% to 80% in under an hour. These are most often found
at motorway service stations and other similar locations on major roads or
retail areas.
What is the difference between Tethered and untethered?
This simply refers to whether your EV charger has a cable and charging gun
permanently attached (tethered) or just has a socket for you to plug a
separate charging cable into (untethered). Some people prefer the convenience
of leaving the cable attached and just plugging it into their car, other
people prefer the neater look of a socket-only and just use the charging cable
which came with the car.
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Do I need to switch the charger off when not in use?
No, most EV chargers draw a minimal 2W on standby. They are also protected
with multiple built-in safety features which means it is safe to leave the EV
charger unattended for prolonged use.
Can I charge other vehicles from the same chargepoint?
Most EV chargers can charge a range of EVs from private cars to electric
mopeds and commercial vans to HGV delivery trucks. Anything that takes a
regular Type 2 charger can be connected. For commercial and public
installations access to the charger can be activated by the use of a
contactless RFID card thus preventing unauthorised use.
What do I do if the charging gun is stuck and will not release?
Chargers have a locking mechanism to hold the plug in place while charging and
prevent accidental (or malicious) removal while charging. Sometimes this lock
can get stuck if the correct disconnect sequence has not been followed.
Repeated tugging on the charge gun when locked can also damage the locking
mechanism. Firstly open the car door then unplug the charging gun from the
car, then unplug from the charger, if it is a socket version.
Can the charging cable get damaged if I drive over it?
No the structure of the electrical cable includes a reinforcing layer to
protect the live wires. This is why they are so heavy. Running over them
repeatedly is not recommended but it won’t harm it in the short term. If you
damage the wire by running over it with the lawn mower then it could be
damaged. In this instance the RCD built into the charger will automatically
shut off power to the charging cable. The RCD in the fusebox in your house may
also trip, but this happens instantaneously so should not harm anyone.
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What happens if my children poke their fingers into the socket?
Nothing. Power is only supplied to the charging socket once it is plugged in
to your EV and the charging sequence has been activated.
manufacturers guarantee them for 8 years or 100,00 miles while others say they aim to supply batteries which will last the whole life of the vehicle (in broad terms this means 12-15 years). Over time the performance and capacity may diminish but not to the point where the vehicle is unusable.
Can I use an EV chargepoint if I am pregnant or have a pacemaker?
All EV chargepoints have to conform to certain regulations, one of these is an
Electro Magnetic Compatibility standard. This alone should make it safe to use
when pregnant or if you have had a pacemaker fitted. Further to this, each EV
chargepoint should be installed on a dedicated circuit in the home with its
own 32amp fuse, this makes it safer than almost all other domestic appliances
which are simply plugged in to the nearest socket and will be operating from
the same circuit.
How long will the batteries last in my Electric Vehicle?
Battery technology is improving all the time. So while some early EV drivers
only expected 5 years or so from the batteries you should easily get 10 years
or more now. Some
What is Regenerative braking?
In a normal petrol or diesel powered car the engine provides power to move it
forward and the breaks provide force to slow it down. In an EV both of these
functions can be covered by the electric motor. Power is supplied to the motor
to make it turn and move the car forwards, to slow it down the power to the
motor is decreased and inertia of the vehicle turns the motor backwards. When
this happens it acts like a dynamo and provides a tiny amount of generated
power back to the battery. It is not a huge amount but possibly enough to get
a few extra miles each day. Most EV manufacturers still fit regular brakes as
a backup but these are not often used. The option to choose an EV with no
conventional brakes at all is not that far off.
Also see the FAKE NEWS! section – pages 9-11
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AC AFV Amp Bar
Battery
BEV
BHP
A to Z of EV
Alternating Current
Alternative Fuel Vehicle
A measurement of an electrical current
A measurement of pressure. One Bar is roughly equal to the air pressure at sea
level. Air pressure is often also measured in PSI (pounds per square inch).
A storage device containing electrochemical cells which converts chemical
energy to electrical evergy
A Battery Electric Vehicle. Usually refers to a vehicle propelled by 100%
electrical energy.
The power of an engine is often measured in Brake Horse Power. This is the
notional power generated before any effect from the drivetrain is taken into
account.
BMS
The Battery Management System. An internal component of an electric vehicle, similar to the ECU, but with the sole purpose of managing and maintaining the battery system.
Capacitor A capacitor stores energy in an electrical circuit.
CCID
A Charge Circuit Interrupting Device is a safety device which can disable power to an EV charging cable in the event of a fault.
CCS
Combined Charging System is
type of Charging plug adopted
as the European DC charging
standard.
CHAdeMO The Japanese DC rapid charging plug standard.
Charge Point A charging point for electric vehicles
Charge Time The time taken to recharge the battery bank on an Electric Vehicle. Usually refers to the 0% to 100% time when referring to AC charging and 10% to 80% for Rapid DC charging.
Charging The process of replenishing the electric stored in a battery
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CNG
Compressed Natural Gas can
be used as an alternative fuel
source for vehicles, usually
large plant or industrial
machinery
CO2
Carbon Dioxide is a colourless
and odourless gas, occurs
naturally in the air but can
affect climate. The reduction of
CO2 is one of the main areas to reduce climate change.
Current
The flow of an electrical charge through a circuit
Cycle Life
This refers the number of charges a battery can undertake before a reduction in potential capacity is affected.
DC
Direct Current
Discharge The opposite of battery charging.
E-Rev
See Range Extender
Electric Motor
The engine of an electric vehicle is powered by the electric stored in the battery and provides power to the drivetrain.
Electromagnet
An electrically induced magnetic field is created in a coil of wire as current passes through it.
ELV
Electric Light Vehicle weighing
less than 250kg, often a quad
bike or motorcycle.
eLCV
Electric Light Commercial Vehicle is a small commercial vehicle or van.
Fast Charge Refers to any chargepoint able to deliver a higher rate of charge than a standard domestic plug. Usually 3.5kW, 7kW or 22kW.
FCV or FCEV A fuel Cell Electric Vehicle uses a Fuel Cell (see below) to power the motor rather than a battery.
Fuel Cell
A device which reacts hydrogen and oxygen to create electricity and water.
Flywheel
A flywheel is a heavy rotating device which spins. Often used to smooth the power output from a motor or engine.
Hydrogen
An abundant element in the universe it can be manipulated to react with oxygen and generate electrical power.
HCU
Home Charging Unit
HEV
Hybrid Electric Vehicle (see
below)
Hybrid
A vehicle which combines an electric battery and motor with an internal combustion engine (petrol or diesel) Power to the drivetrain can come from either source with some Hybrids combining the two.
ICE
Internal Combustion Engine
(petrol or diesel) Burns fuel
to force the pistons to turn
the crankshaft and provide
rotational power to the
drivetrain.
ICED
A slang term referring to an
ICE vehicle parking in a spot
reserved for Electric Charging
therefore blocking access to
the chargepoint.
KERS
Kinetic Energy Recovery System.
kW
A Kilo Watt equal to 1,000 watts
kWh
Refers to the battery capacity of
an electric vehicle. Measured
as ower in kW over time (hours)
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Lead-Acid A type of battery previously used in vehicles
Li-Fe
Lithium-ion, a type of battery
Li-Fe
Lithium-Iron, a type of battery
Li-S
Lithium Sulphur, a type of
battery
LiCoO2
Lithium Cobalt Oxide, a type of battery
LiFePO4
Lithium Iron Phosphate, a type of battery
LiPo
Lithium Polymer, a type of
battery
Memory Effect
A term used for older batteries where the capacity was reduced to the most frequently used level rather than the total potential capacity
Mennekes
The name given to the standard 7-pin charging plug and socket, named after the German company of the same name
Mild-Hybrid Differs to a full hybrid in that it uses a much smaller battery system which only briefly provides power to the drivetrain.
MPG
Miles Per Gallon, the term used to quantify the efficiency of an ICE vehicle in terms of miles driven per gallon of fuel.
National GridThe UK national grid is the power distribution network which takes electrical energy from the point of generation to the point of use.
NiCd
Nickel Cadmium, a type of battery
NiMH
Nickel Metal Hydride, a type of battery
Nm
The standard term for
measuring torque: Newton
Metres
NOx
Nitrogen Oxide and Nitrogen
Dioxide
Peak Oil
The term used to describe the maximum amount of oil produced in a year. This was originally stated as 2020, after this date international oil production will decline year on year.
PHEV
Plugin Hybrid Electric Vehicle combines a plugin battery and motor system with an ICE.
Photovoltaic These are the components of Cells (PV) a solar panel which
convert
sunlight to electricity.
Power
The measurement of the output of a motor. Often measured in PS (the metric equivalent of BHP) or HP (horsepower).
Range
The total distance a vehicle can travel determined by the electricity stored in the battery
Range Anxiety
The Term used to describe the fear that an EV does not have the required range for a particular journey.
Range Extender
A vehicle where the drivetrain is powered by electricity but has an onboard generator to replenish the battery.
Rapid Charge
The next level of charging after Fast Charging. Generally refers to DC charging above 40kWh
RegenerativeA method of slowing a vehicle Braking down by limiting the
rotation of
the motor rather than applying braking force to the wheels. This can
momentarily provide power generation to the battery.
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Renewable A term used to describe power
Energy
generated by non-destructive
forces such as wind, solar,
waves and geo-thermal.
RFID
A Radio Frequency
Identification Card can be used
to unlock a chargepoint and
provide charging facilities to
an EV. Does not require the use
of apps or other contactless
payments
Single-PhaseThe UK standard of electrical
power
system for domestic properties.
Limited to 32 amps and 240v,
enough to power a 7kW
chargepoint
Three-Phase The term used for electrical
power
power networks in commercial
properties where a higher
level of power consumption is
expected. Can be used to power
an AC chargepoint up to 43kW
Torque
The measurement for turning force of an object such as a motor
Type 1
A five-pin plug/socket for charging EVs, most often found in the USA and Japan
Type 2
A seven-pin plug/socket most often found in UK and Europe, see also Mennekes
ULEV
Ultra Low Emission Vehicle
V2G/V2H
Vehicle to Grid or Vehicle to Home is the term used for powering a domestic property with the electrical power from an electric vehicle or returning the stored electricity to the national grid.
ZEV
Zero Emission Vehicle
Links and Resources
HYDRA EVC LTD UK Distributor of Domestic and Commercial Chargepoints. AC and
DC from 7kW up to 320kW www.hydraev.co.uk Tel: 01268 205121
OZEV – Office of Zero Emission Vehicles The UK Government department
responsible for promoting the switch to Electric Vehicles and overseeing hte
improvements in charging infrastructure www.gov.uk/government/organisations/
office-for-zero-emission-vehicles
ELECTRIC VEHICLE DATABASE
Independent database of every EV available in the UK. Listing all features and
specification for each vehicle www.ev-database.uk
EV MAGAZINE
Magazine covering all aspects of the Electric Vehicle market
www.evmagazine.com
EV BUILDERS GUIDE
International magazine covering the conversion of older and classic vehicles
to Electric www.evbuildersguide.com
FULLY CHARGED SHOW
World’s largest EV and Clean Energy YouTube Channel and Event hosted by Robert
Llewellyn www. fullycharged.show
© 2022 HYDRA EVC LTD – No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission of the publisher.
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HYDRA HOME APP
Hydra Home gives you complete control of your Zodiac EV Charge Point
· Start and stop charging remotely
· Take advantage of Cheaper Rate Energy Tarrifs
· Monitors Energy usage and logs all charging sessions
· Allow other family members to access the charger
· Totally secure communications and OCPP compliant via Wi-Fi or Ethernet
01268 205121 | sales@hydraev.co.uk | www.hydraev.co.uk
References
- Booking.com | Official site | The best hotels, flights, car rentals & accommodations
- Co Charger - Co Charger: Neighbourhood EV charger sharing made easy
- Compare electric vehicles - EV Database UK
- EV Builder’s Guide: Learn about Electric Vehicle Conversions
- Home of Electric Vehicle News | EV Magazine
- Departments, agencies and public bodies - GOV.UK
- Hydra EVC - The Fast Charging Specialists - Hydra EVC
- JustPark - The Parking App | Find parking in seconds
- Driving in Europe: top tips, advice and guidance | RAC Drive
- Planning Portal
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>