TEAM ASSOCIATED RC10T6.4 2WD Electric Off Road Competition Truck Kit Installation Guide

June 17, 2024
TEAM ASSOCIATED

TEAM ASSOCIATED RC10T6.4.JPG

TEAM ASSOCIATED RC10T6.4 2WD Electric Off Road Competition Truck Kit

Installation Guide

TEAM ASSOCIATED RC10T6.4 2WD Electric Off Road Competition Truck
Kit.JPG

Introduction

Thank you for purchasing this Team Associated product. This assembly manual contains instructions and tips for building and maintaining your new vehicle. Please take a moment to read through the manual and familiarize yourself with the steps.
We are continually changing and improving our designs; therefore, actual parts may appear slightly different than the illustrations.
New parts will be noted on supplementary sheets located in the appropriate parts bags. Check each bag for these sheets before you start to build.

RC10T6.4 KIT Features

• New 13mm big bore threaded aluminum shocks and springs with machined shock pistons for improved bump / jump handling
• 13mm machined shock pistons, 2×1.6mm front and 2×1.8mm rear
• New front ballstud mount and top plate with angled steering system for improved steering consistency
• New 3.5mm heavy-duty ball cups and turnbuckles for maximum durability
• Updated rear suspension with wider C and D mounts from the RC10B6.4 series
• New longer 92.5mm CVA driveshafts for more rear grip
• 7.0mm blue aluminum rear clamping hexes with laser etching
• New chassis side rails with the RC10B6.4 fan mount system
• New truck length aluminum chassis with 22.5° kick-up to complement updated front-end geometry and with new shape to reduce chassis scrub with the track surface
• 20°, 22.5°, and 25° molded bulkheads included for a complete range of caster and kickup options
• B6.4 adjustable height steering bellcrank and rack system for optimized bumpsteer at all ride heights and caster angles
• B6.4 -1mm kingpin offset steering and caster block set for smoother and more predictable steering through the entire wheel throw
• Aluminum RC10B6.4 ESC mounting tray shifted forward in the chassis and with a wider footprint to fit electronics, resulting in a weight bias placed further forward
• Factory Team RC10B6.4 11g aluminum ESC tray

Additional

Your new T6.4 Team Kit comes unassembled and requires the following items for completion (Refer to www.rc10.com and www.Reedypower.com for complete listings):
• RC two channel surface frequency radio system
• AA-size batteries for transmitter (#302 alkaline)
• Electronic Speed Control, ESC
• Steering servo
• 540 size electric motor
• Pinion gear (48P), size determined by type/wind of motor
• Battery charger (a peak detection charger, or LiPo compatible charger)
• 2 cell LiPo battery pack
• Polycarbonate 1/10 Stadium truck body
• Polycarbonate specific spray paint

• Cyanoacrylate glue (CA)(#1597)
• Thread locking compound (#1596)
• Tires and Inserts, Fronts and Rears
• Wheels w/12mm Hex
White Wheels #7852
Yellow Wheels #7853

Other Helpful Items

• Silicone Shock Fluid (Refer to www.rc10.com for complete listings):
• Body Scissors (AE Part #1737)
• FT Hex/Nut Wrenches (AE Part #1519, 1650)
• Green Slime shock lube (AE Part #1105)
• Soldering Iron
• Needle Nose Pliers

• FT Body Reamer
• FT Ballcup Wrench (#1579)
• FT Dual Turnbuckle Wrench (#1114)
• Hobby Knife

• Shock Pliers (#1681)
• FT Universal Tire Balancer (#1498)
• Calipers or a Precision Ruler
• Wire Cutters

Hardware “Fold Out”

Hardware – 1:1 Scale View

FIG 1 Hardware.JPG

FIG 2 Hardware.JPG

FIG 3 Hardware.JPG

Bag 1: Steering

FIG 4 Steering.JPG

FIG 5 Steering.JPG

Bag 2: Front Suspension

FIG 6 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 7 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 8 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 9 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 10 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 11 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 12 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 13 Front Suspension.JPG

FIG 14 Front Suspension.JPG

Bag 3: Caster Blocks

FIG 15 Caster Blocks.JPG

FIG 16 Caster Blocks.JPG

FIG 17 Caster Blocks.JPG

Bag 4: Rear Suspension

FIG 18 Rear Suspension.JPG

FIG 19 Rear Suspension.JPG

Bag 5: Ball Diff

FIG 20 Ball Diff.JPG

FIG 21 Ball Diff.JPG

FIG 22 Ball Diff.JPG

FIG 23 Ball Diff.JPG

Bag 6: Gearbox

FIG 24 Gearbox.JPG

FIG 25 Gearbox.JPG

FIG 26 Gearbox.JPG

FIG 27 Gearbox.JPG

FIG 28 Gearbox.JPG

FIG 29 Gearbox.JPG

Bag 7: Rear Hubs

FIG 30 Rear Hubs.JPG

FIG 31 Rear Hubs.JPG

FIG 32 Rear Hubs.JPG

Bag 8: Turnbuckles

FIG 33 Turnbuckles.JPG

FIG 34 Turnbuckles.JPG

FIG 35 Turnbuckles.JPG

FIG 36 Turnbuckles.JPG

Bag 9: Shocks

FIG 37 Shocks.JPG

FIG 38 Shocks.JPG

FIG 39 Shocks.JPG

FIG 40 Shocks.JPG

FIG 41 Shocks.JPG

FIG 42 Shocks.JPG

FIG 43 Shocks.JPG

FIG 44 Shocks.JPG

Bag 10: Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels

FIG 45 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

FIG 46 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

FIG 47 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

FIG 48 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

FIG 49 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

FIG 50 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

FIG 51 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

FIG 52 Battery Strap, Body, and Wheels.JPG

Notes

Tuning Tips

Painting:
Your Kit requires a clear polycarbonate body and polycarbonate specific paint. You will need to prep the body before you can paint it. Wash the INSIDE thoroughly with warm water and liquid detergent (do not use any detergents with scents or added hand lotion ingredients!). Dry the body using a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. Use the supplied window masks to cover the windows from the INSIDE of the body (RC cars get painted on the inside). Using high quality masking tape, apply tape to the inside of the body to create a design. Spray (use either rattle can or airbrush) the paint on the inside of the body (preferably dark colors first, lighter colors last). NOTE: ONLY use paint that is recommended for polycarbonate plastics. If you do not, you can destroy the body! After the paint has completely dried (usually after 24 hours), cut the body along the trim lines. Make sure to drill or use a body reamer to make the holes for the antenna if needed! Use hook and loop tape to secure the body to the side rails of the vehicle.

Tips for Beginners:
Before making any changes to the standard setup, make sure you can get around the track without crashing. Changes to your vehicle will not be beneficial if you can’t stay on the track. Your goal is consistent laps. Once you can get around the track consistently, start tuning your vehicle. Make only ONE adjustment at a time, testing it before making another change. If the result of your adjustment is a faster lap, mark the change on the included setup sheet (make adddtional copies of the sheet before writing on it). If your adjustment results in a slower lap, revert back to the previous setup and try another change. When you are satisfied with your vehicle, fill in the setup sheet thoroughly and file it away. Use this as a guide for future track days or conditions. Periodically check all moving suspension parts. Suspension components must be kept clean and move freely without binding to prevent poor and/or inconsistent handling.

FIG 53 Rear Arm Mount Pill Insert Setup.JPG

FIG 54 Rear Arm Mount Pill Insert Setup.JPG

FIG 55 Motor Gearing.JPG

Diff Height Adjustment:
Diff height adjustment (p.12) .
On high grip surface when using low ride heights, a higher diff height would be a good option.
On low grip surface when using high ride heights, a lower diff height would be better.

Gear Box Type:
Selecting the correct gear box is dependent on the type of track it will be used on. The optional 4-gear standup gear box is for the lowest grip conditions. This gear box moves the weight towards the rear of the car and also uses the rotation of the motor to transfer weight to the rear while on- power. The 3-gear standup gear box also moves the weight towards the rear of the car, but in this configuration, the motor’s rotation helps with on-power steering.
The laydown gear box is used on high grip conditions when on-power steering and stability are most important.
This gear box will change directions the quickest and generate the most steering. Layback is used for most indoor clay track conditions.

Slipper Clutch:
The assembly instructions give you a base setting for your clutch. Turn the nut on the shaft so that the end of the top shaft is even with the outside of the nut. At the track, tighten or loosen the nut in 1/8 turn increments until you hear a faint slipping sound for 1-2 feet on takeoffs. Another popular way to set the clutch is to hold both rear tires firmly in place and apply short bursts of throttle. If the clutch is properly set, the front tires should lift slightly up off the surface.

Caster:
Caster describes the angle of the caster block as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle. Positive caster means the kingpin leans rearward at the top. The kit includes three inserts to adjust caster angle at the caster block, 0°, 2.5°, and +5°. The total caster angle is the sum of the kick-up angle and the caster block angle. Standard total caster angle for the B6 is 30°, with 25° kick-up and +5° caster block angle.

For less entry steering and more exit steering, try 0° caster block angle.

Front Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.
A camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

Rear Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.
A camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

FIG 57.JPG

FIG 58.JPG

FIG 59.JPG

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References

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