SIM LAB XP-1 Pedal Set Instruction Manual
- June 13, 2024
- SIM-LAB
Table of Contents
SIM LAB XP-1 Pedal Set
BEFORE YOU START
Thank you for your purchase. In this manual we will provide you with the means to get started using your new pedals!
Introducing the Sim-Lab XP-1 200KG Loadcell Pedal Set! Simulate any pedal of any car with the most complete sim-racing pedal set available. Carefully crafted to satisfy the needs of serious sim racing enthusiasts, this top-notch and fully customizable pedal set is designed to take your on-track performance to new heights. Experience the thrill of absolute control, immerse yourself in the authenticity of sim racing, and unleash your true racing potential with the Sim-Lab XP-1 200KG Loadcell Pedal Set. It’s time to elevate your racing experience and leave your competitors in the dust.
XP-1 LC PEDAL SET and CLUTCH
Features:
Aluminum construction Custom integrated loadcell (Brake) Hall sensor (Throttle/Clutch) Multiple elastomers included Multiple springs included Plug and play (USB-B) 16-Bit resolution input.
Installation
Depending on your setup, the pedals can be mounted directly to both profile (P1-X) or pedal decks (like the GT1-EVO). Also the latest universal baseplate is also compatible with these new pedals so no matter which setup you own, there are ways to mount this pedal set.
Simply bolt down the set using the 6mm slots (seen from the bottom) shown below.
Profile based pedal deck
In the case of a profile based pedal deck, like found on the P1-X, mounting is very easy. Sufficient mounting hardware is included.
The example on the right shows the pedals mounted to the bigger of the two profiles to allow for a heelplate to be fitted on the smaller profile. This of course depends on your preference.
On the next page, you can review our recommended mounting solutions for pedal decks and baseplates.
Pedal deck and baseplate
Due to the 6mm slots, you can use almost every slot found on these products and it all comes down to personal preference.
For baseplates, there still more than enough of possibilities.
The obvious difference here is the lack of slot-nuts, and the inclusion of some additional washers to help protect your baseplate. As mentioned, the exact slots you use really don’t matter too much, as almost all slots on our pedal deck based products match the 6mm slots on the pedal side mounts.
When mounting to a pedal slider baseplate for example, use the hardware indicated on the right.
For normal pedal decks, the same hardware applies. The bolts will stick out a bit, that is okay.
Configuration
Pedal Base
We tried to re-use as many parts throughout the pedals as possible. This means the configuration and adjustments are virtually the same for all three pedals.
The angle of the pedal arm in relation to your cockpit can be changed by adjusting the pedal base. Simply loosen four bolts, start with the two (P) where the arm pivots around. After those are loose, loosen the two (A) in the arcs. Now you should be able to rotate the entire pedal as a whole while the base remains fixed in place. Tighten all bolts again after you have found your preferred position and you are good to go.
There is quite a large range of adjustment (20 degrees) possible so you can adjust these pedals to your seating position perfectly.
Note: especially for the brake pedal, make sure all four bolts (A,P) are tight before using the pedal with higher brake forces.
Pedal Face
One of the more simple adjustments is the ability to change the position and angle of the pedal face. Loosen the two bolts (F) holding the pedal face and you can adjust the position of the pedal face to your preference.
As mentioned, it is also possible to change the angle of the pedal face. Begin by loosening the top (T) (countersunk) bolts, but do not remove them. Temporarily remove the bottom (B) bolts and now the bracket can rotate freely. The bracket comes with a preset slot for different angles you can choose from. Choose your angle and fix it in place using the two bottom bolts (B). When happy, tighten the upper two (T) bolts again as well.
Prepare for changing parts
To get acces to the parts we can change, first we must temporarily remove the spring bolt (S), which keeps the clevis fork attached to the pedal arm. In this example we are using the throttle pedal.
Release any tension from the spring by loosening any adjustment knob(s) before trying to remove the spring bolt.
Unclip the spring bolt (S) from the clevis fork shaft (left drawing) by rotating it upwards, then pull it away from the clevis fork altogether. Now the entire shaft holding parts, can be turned away from the pedal arm and as many parts removed as desired.
Be careful! The pedal arm is unsupported right now and will be able to fall towards the front or the rear of the pedal. We recommend to keep holding the pedal arm or provide support to it by other means, while removing the clevis fork and shaft parts, to avoid damage.
Throttle configuration
This pedal is easy to setup, be it stock or after you have changed the springs. There are two main options basically. The throttle spring can be adjusted to be more stiff or soft. Unlock the blue knobs and tighten (clockwise) the adjustment knob (A) for a stiffer throttle feel. To go softer, do the opposite. When you are happy with the change, hold the adjustment knob (A) and tighten the locking knob (L) against it, this locks your change in place.
The same principle applies to the maximum travel of the pedal. On the bottom of the pedal arm you will find two blue knobs as well. The inner one is the locking knob (L), the outer one is the adjustment knob (A). Turning the adjustment knob clockwise results in less travel, turning the adjustment knob anti-clockwise results in more travel. By default, the pedal has been setup to provide a middle of the road range of travel but you are free to experiment.
Adjusting spring force isn’t only possible by using the adjustment knobs. Using the lower of the three adjustment points on the pedal arm gives you a slightly softer (S) pedal pressure for example. The higher of the three a slightly firmer (F).
Note: by the nature of the position of the clevis fork so low on the pedal arm, travel might be mechanically limited. Please do check the travel manually (meaning literally, by hand) to see if you need to decrease travel using the travel adjustment knobs,to prevent the clevis fork interfering with the flange on the pedal arm. When it does, please reduce maximum travel until you have about 3-4mm between the flat base of the clevis fork and the pedal arm flange.
In case you aren’t happy with the overall spring force range, we supply a heavy throttle spring for ultimate control. Simply follow the steps on page 7, remove the adjustment knobs and replace the default spring with the heavy one.
Brake configuration
We will focus just on changing parts in this chapter.
After you have followed the steps on page 7, you can now remove the clevis fork and shaft. This makes it very easy to change around parts to suit your preference.
Keep in mind, all parts connected to the shaft are loose fitting. Make sure to keep parts together which don’t need to be replaced to avoid misplacing them.
The parts which we expect to be removed when changing the brake stack as shown on the right:
Locking Knob (L)
Adjustment Knob (A)
Elastomer (E)
Bushing (B)
Elastomer Washer (W)
Pre-load Spring (P)
Depending on your preference, we have included four elastomers (E) in different hardness (Shore A) ratings for you to try. The medium one is pre- installed.
Included are the following elastomers, the Shore A ratings are:
Soft – Shore 50A
Medium – Shore 60A
Hard – Shore 70A
We recommend to match your max pressure to the elastomer rating. We expect you to run lower pressures with the 50A, this ensures its durability
We also supply you with different preload springs to adjust the feel of the preload. The medium strength one is fitted n case you do not want any preload, we included a preload buffer(BOM) to replace the spring with. This is basically a spacer which replaces the spring.
As a matter of fact, when you are going to install the preload buffer and do not want any preload all, remove the spring entirely. This way there is no unnneccesary strain on the whole assembly and the preload buffer will do its job regardless.
Clutch (sold separately) configuration
We hardly mentioned the clutch in this manual so far. Let’s change that.
The clutch shares all base parts with the brake and mostly the throttle pedal. It does have an additional (heavy) spring and travel is adjustable to a point.
This is the only pedal which we limit to only using the top adjustment point on the pedal arm. Because of the swiveling pivot part, we do not support any of the other adjustment holes.
In the case of the clutch, it means adjustability is limited, if only simply by the nature of the intended feel.
As with the other pedals, maximum travel can be adjusted. Please be aware this does diminish the feel of where the bitepoint is rather quickly and might not have the desired effect.
When adjusting the adjustment knob for spring tension, please be mindful that at full travel it doesn’t collide with the pivot. We recommend to make adjustments in small increments to make sure no parts collide, possibly causing damage.
Control box
Installation
The mounting tabs are suited to a 80×40 pattern so they can be mounted almost everywhere near your pedals. Here we chose to mount the control box underneath a profile based pedal deck found on our P1-X and X1-Pro cockpits.
Using the hardware provided the control box won’t go anywhere.
Don’t overtighten the M5 bolts, the control box doesn’t go anywhere.
Connected the cables to and from the pedals as labeled.
We recommend taking some time for cable management.
Please refer to the included quick start guide for more information about mounting the control box.
Plugging in the pedals
All pedals are plugged into the control box the same way. All inputs are labeled, for reference, here is top-down drawing with the same information as found on the box.
Every pedal uses the same connector, so you don’t have to worry about mixing up the cables or anything.
They are all identical to each other.
When your is powered on during installation, please make sure you plugin the USB cable last. This is ensures all connected pedals are calibrated correctly on the first connection.
When you have trouble calibrating pedals correctly, we recommend to reset the control box by unplugging the USB cable, wait a second or two and plug it back in. Now you can resume calibration of all pedals.
Race Director
Download and install the lastest version of RaceDirector from www.sim-lab.eu /srd-setup
For explanation on how to install and use RaceDirector, please read the manual. This can be found here: www.sim-lab.eu/srd-manual
We will now go over the very basics to get going using RaceDirector to get you on track asap. We really urge you to go through the manual for a more in depth explanation of the possiblities RaceDirector has to offer.
First we need to activate the product, this is done on the ‘Settings’ (1) page.
Tick the ‘Activate’ tickbox next to ‘XP-1 Pedals’ (2) and its icon (3) should appear on the left side of the screen. Selecting the icon (3) will take us to its device pages.
Device page
The device page for the pedals allow you to calibrate (1), adjust the input curves (2) and adjust deadzones (3). We will focus on the middle colum in this example, as their functionality is identical:
Calibration
-
Press ‘Calibrate’ (1) for the device to enter calibration mode.
-
Press the pedal to the maximum travel or force, press ‘Finish calibration’ when done.
-
We advise to dial some deadzone (3) on both sides of the spectrum. This way
when you’re not touching a pedal, it can’t provide an unwanted input. -
The percentages are using the calibrated range. We advise to keep these in the single digits.
Input curve adjustment
Adjusting the input curves (2) is as easy as moving points on a line. You can manipulate a maximum of 5 points per graph. By manually moving/overriding the ‘input slider’ (4) you can see how the curve affects your input
By pressing ‘save profile’ (5) you can save all settings.
By pressing ‘load profile’(6) you can load a settings file you previously
configured.
We supply some presets (7), which come with RaceDirector by default.
Maintenance
Although the pedal set has bronze bushings and teflon parts, we do recommend to take care of your pedal set. Every now and then some cleaning and oiling will benefit performance and condition of your pedal set.
As for lubrication , we generally recommend WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease to lubricate moving parts. Also, do not forget the spring bolt which also sits in a bushing on the pedal arm.
This doesn’t take much time and effort at all but goes a long into enjoying your pedal set for many hours on the virtual track to come.
Firmware
When first using the pedals, we recommend to check for firmware updates. At the time of writing, we are using a separate piece of software designed to work across multiple devices (Sim-Lab/GRID).
To download, please use the following link: sim-lab.eu/firmware-updater
Unzip the downloaded file ‘updater.zip’ and extract the folder to a location of your choice, run ‘DeviceUpdater.exe’ to start the software.
- Make sure RaceDirector is not running.
- Select your pedals (1) (possibly after clicking ‘Refresh’ (2) when they don’t show up)
- Select the port the pedals are using from the ‘Port selection’ (3) dropdown.
- Begin updating the firmware by pressing ‘Start flash’ (4)
Note: the ‘Start flash’ button will only appear when the appropriate com port has been selected.
Do not close the software, unplug the control box, unplug pedals or turn off your pc. Wait for the software to show the ‘Flashing done’ message.
After this message appeared, you can close the software and reset the control box.
Unplug the USB cable, wait for about two seconds, and plug it back in.
Now you have updated your firmware, you can re-calibrate your pedals and head out on the virtual track again.
Bill of materials
THROTTLE AND BRAKE SET
#| Part| QTY| Note
A1| Brake pedal| 1|
A2| Throttle pedal| 1|
A3| Control box| 1|
A4| Pedal cable short| 2| 30cm.
A5| Pedal cable long| 2| 75cm.
A6| USB-A cable| 1|
A7| Elastomer set| 2| 50A, 70A.
A8| Brake preload spring set| 2| Light, Heavy.
A9| Brake preload buffer| 1|
A10| Throttle spring heavy| 1|
A11| Bolt M6 X 30 DIN 912| 10|
A12| Bolt M6 X 20 DIN 912| 10|
A13| Bolt M5 X 25 DIN 912| 2|
A14| Bolt M5 X 12 DIN 912| 4|
A15| Washer M6 DIN 125-A| 20|
A16| Washer M5 DIN 9021| 2|
A17| Washer M5 DIN 125-A| 4|
#| Part| QTY| Note
---|---|---|---
A18| Lock-Nut M6| 20|
A19| Lock-Nut M5| 2|
A20| Slot-Nut M6| 10|
A21| Slot-Nut M5| 4|
CLUTCH
#| Part| QTY| Note
B1| Clutch pedal| 1|
B2| Clutch spring heavy| 1|
B3| Bolt M6 X 30 DIN 912| 4|
B4| Bolt M6 X 20 DIN 912| 4|
B5| Washer M6 DIN 125-A| 8|
B6| Lock-Nut M6| 4|
B7| Slot-Nut M6| 4|
More information
If you still have some questions regarding assembly of this product or about the manual itself, please refer to our support department. They can be reached at: support@sim-lab.eu
Alternatively, we now have Discord servers where you can hang out or ask for
help.
www.sim-lab.eu/discord
Product page on the Sim-Lab website:
References
- Sim-Lab
- sim-lab.eu/srd-setup
- sim-lab.eu/firmware-updater
- Pedal Set XP1 Loadcell
- sim-lab.eu/srd-setup
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