Thuren Fabrication 1994-2013 Alien Long Arms Instruction Manual

Thuren Fabrication 1994-2013 Alien Long Arms

Product Information

The Thuren Fabrication Alien Long Arms are a set of aftermarket suspension components designed for trucks. These long arms are built to provide enhanced stability, improved articulation, and increased ground clearance for off-road enthusiasts.

This product is compatible with trucks from 1994 to 2013. It is important to note that welding of the frame brackets is required for installation. We recommend seeking the assistance of a skilled and experienced welder to ensure proper installation.

Product Usage Instructions

Bracket Install
Before starting the installation process, it is advised to take multiple measurements from various frame reference points to ensure that the new brackets are positioned correctly. These reference points include rear leaf spring bolts, front control arm original holes, and transmission cross member. Adjust the brackets as needed based on these measurements.

When measuring, make sure that all reference points are identical from side to side. The final position of the brackets should be about 1/8 inch away from the body mount. It is acceptable if the distance is slightly less, but it should not be much farther away.

Arm Install
The installation of the arms requires cutting off a majority of the factory lower control arm brackets welded to the frame rails. Use a Sawzall with new blades or a plasma cutter to remove the brackets. Take your time and exercise patience during this process.

Note : Using an Oxy Acetylene cutting torch should only be performed by a skilled individual. It is recommended to install one side at a time. Ensure that the axle is supported from front to rear. You can remove the existing short arms on one side of the truck while leaving the opposite side intact to prevent axle rotation. If desired, you can keep the truck static with its full weight on the ground, as long as wheel chocks are supporting the tire.

For the installation, use OEM bolts/hardware at the axle side and supplied hardware at the new bracket side. Refer to the provided images for visual reference:

• Image 1: [Insert Image 1]
• Image 2: [Insert Image 2]
• Image 3: [Insert Image 3]
• Image 4: [Insert Image 4]

These instructions are applicable to the following Trucks:

• 1994 – 2013 Ram 2500
• 1994 – 2012 Ram 3500
• 2005 – 2013 Power Wagon

Applicable Part Number:

• TF-ALIENS9413

Note: Welding of the frame brackets is a standard general fabrication for a skilled welder, and this is a job which a skilled seasoned welder should be performing. You can weld up the brackets and get them painted and finished, before even taking a tire off the truck. This is nice as you can do the bracket install one day, and still drive the truck daily until you plan to do the final arm install.

Bracket Install

• Test fit the brackets to fit your frame

  • They should snug up tight to the bottom of the frame rail front and rear, and the outside bracket surface should sit flush vertically on the outside of the frame The bracket will slide forward about 1/8″ away from the body mount. ( see image 1 & 2)

• Mark weld area around the bracket

  • Trace the bracket for paint removal Don’t forget the areas under the bracket, inside, backside, etc.

• Remove Long Arm brackets and clean the frame of paint in marked areas with a flap wheel in preparation for welding. ( see image 3 )

  • Make sure there are no deep grooves or Contaminants can be buried deep within and are harder to clean out. It will also affect the quality of the weld and give you limited control.
  • Cutting too much of the surface off, especially if the metal is thin, will ruin the strength and shape of the metal.
  • If you don’t wipe down the metal there could be dirt, dust and oils that will ruin your weld and can lead to defects.
  • Never weld when the metal is After you’ve cleaned the metal make sure it is dry before you start welding.
  • If you are using chemicals then you should handle them with extreme Make sure that they are covered and that you protect your skin and eyes when you use them.

• Re-install brackets and slide brackets forward so they are about 1/8″ away from touching the body mount, and clamp in place. THIS IS NOT THE FINAL LOCATION.

Warning: Take many measurements from other frame reference points (rear leaf spring bolts, front control arm original holes, transmission cross member, etc) to verify the new brackets are in identical positions from front to back on the frame, and adjust as needed.

TRIPLE-CHECK THIS THERE IS OBVIOUSLY NO GOING BACK ONCE WELDED IN.

Referencing only the body mount for bracket position will not be correct. Make sure when measuring all reference points are IDENTICAL from side to side. The final resting position will be about 1/8″ from butting up to the body mount. Less is fine, but should not be much farther away if at all.

• For a very precise install, sight through the bracket bolt holes of one side, and verify you can see through the same holes of the bracket on the opposite side.
• Tack into place (see image 4) and recheck positioning. This is the only time you can really undo what’s been done with relative ease. If everything is where it should be proceed with fully welding brackets.
• Weld brackets in place! Take your time as to not overheat the frame, and weld 2″ or so on one bracket, then move over and weld the same 2″ on the other side, as to make sure any distortions or heat-flex matches from side to side.
• Now the rear boxed braces can be welded in place. Clean frame paint, center under the frame rail where they land, and weld both sides in place. Clean up all brackets/welds and paint as you desire.

Arm Install

You will be cutting off a majority of the factory lower control arm brackets welded to the frame rails. Only leaving what you’re willing to grind off afterwards.

This can be completed with a Sawzall, using new blades, and a bit of patience. Plasma cutter works best, and again…patience. Get as much of the bracket off as you can to minimize grinding for final finish.

Warning: Using an Oxy Acetylene cutting torch should only be performed by a skilled individual

Install one side at a time. As long as the axle is supported front to rear, you can completely remove the existing short arms on one side of the truck, and the opposite side of the truck will prevent the axle from rotating. You can even leave the truck static full weight on the ground if you like, as long as wheel chocks are supporting the tire.

Use OEM bolts/hardware at the axle side, and supplied hardware at the new bracket side.

• Support one side of the axle/tire, and remove the upper and lower arms on that side only.
• Cut off the existing control arm bracket, TAKE YOUR TIME, and detail/grind/paint/etc the frame as in above notes.
• Install zerks before arm install.
  • straight zerks at lower arm on frame side
  • 45° zerks installed everywhere else
  • Install new arms. Be sure the “kick” in the arms moves the arm tube closer to the frame rail for tire clearance.
• The “kick” in the lower arms will also mount inward for tire clearance. Snug bolts down, and move to the opposite side of the truck to repeat the same process.
• Re-Torque bolts after 500 miles.
  • Torque 14mm Bolts to 150 ft/lbs
  • Upper long arms at axle end
  • Torque 16mm Bolts to 215 ft/lbs
  • Lower long arm axle bolts 2003-2009
  • Torque 18mm Bolts to 225 ft/lbs
  • Lower long arm axle end bolts 2010+
  • Torque 9/16” Bolts to 170 ft/lbs
  • Upper long arm frame mount
  • Torque 5/8” Bolts to 220 ft/lbs
  • Lower long arm frame mount
• Align truck to 3.8° – 4.0° caster, and 0.0° – .05° total toe. Visit our Tech Data Section for applicable Alignment Specs for your specific truck.

INSTALLATION

• Image 1:
• Image 2:
• Image 3:
• Image 4:

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