Armacost RGB RibbonFlex LED Accent Lighting User Guide

Armacost RGB RibbonFlex LED Accent Lighting User Guide

Please read completely before installing.

These guidelines will help you to understand how LED tape lighting can be configured, cut to size, connected, and installed so you can successfully design your own project-specific LED lighting layout.

Installing tape lighting is an easy DIY project, however, basic wiring skills such as stripping, splicing, extending, and connecting wires are required.

This LED tape lighting requires a DC power supply and a color controller, available separately. An LED Signal Repeater may be required for longer runs.

IMPORTANT

• When making any connections or cutting the LED tape light, make sure all power is disconnected. A short circuit will occur if any of the energized wires come in contact with each other, which can permanently damage your controller.
• Never connect tape light directly to 120-volt household power
• Do not power LED tape while coiled on reel, as the LEDs will overheat. The mounting surface will act as a heat sink to dissipate heat
• Do not stare directly into the LED lights when illuminated
• Never connect more than one power supply or color controller to a run of LED lighting
• Always use the indicators printed on the tape light to maintain polarity and correct color sequencing
• Do not install this product in areas that are susceptible to direct exposure to the elements
• Use only insulated staples, plastic ties, or wire support clips to secure cords and wires
• Route and secure wires so they will not be pinched or damaged
• Use properly certified CL2 or better cabling for wire runs inside walls
• Do not install Class 2 low voltage wiring in the same runs as AC main power. If AC and low voltage wires cross, keep them at 90-degree angles

All wiring must be in accordance with national and local electrical codes, low voltage Class 2 circuit. If you are unclear as to how to install and wire this product, contact a qualified professional.

Planning

RibbonFlex LED lighting is designed for indirect lighting applications. The LEDs themselves are not intended to be seen directly by the eye. Every installation is unique and the illumination effects are personal preference. Installation location, wall colors, mounting angle, and the light’s reflection off of walls, surfaces and objects will affect the final lighting appearance. Subtle adjustments to the positioning and angle of the LED tape can greatly impact the overall lighting effect.

Installation considerations

■ Where will you locate your power supply and controller?
■ How will you switch your LED lighting on and off?
■ What is the best layout configuration for your installation?
■ What are the best ways to mount the tape lighting?
■ How will you cut, connect, and conceal the wires to your lighting?

Choose a color controller

A color controller is required for RibbonFlex multi-color LED lighting. Color controllers blend the light from the LED chipsets allowing you to create custom colors and color-changing effects. The color controller will also work as a dimmer and function as an on/off switch. A wireless wall switch is also available. For current product information, visit armacostlighting.com.

Choose a power supply

Power supplies come in various sizes with different wattages and are often referred to as transformers, AC/DC adaptors, or LED drivers. RibbonFlex LED tape operates on low voltage (12-volt or 24-volt, depending on the model) and requires a power supply to convert 120-volt household AC power to low-voltage DC power.

• Never connect RibbonFlex LED Tape Lighting directly to 120-volt household power
• Only use RibbonFlex with Armacost Lighting approved LED drivers and power supplies. Using other power supplies will void warranty

TYPICAL CONNECTION SCENARIOS

Interior RV and boat applications can be powered directly by a battery. Make sure the LED tape lighting that you are using matches the voltage of your RV or boat.

Power supply location and voltage drop

The shorter the wire is between the power supply, the controller and the tape lighting, the brighter and more consistent the color will be – do not coil extra wire. If the LEDs farthest from the power supply appear dim or you see a color shift, it is due to voltage drop. Voltage drop only becomes undesirable if you notice the brightness or color in one area of your lighting is objectionably different than in another area. As a practical approach, test your LED lighting prior to final installation. If voltage drop appears to be an issue use heavier gauge wire, power tape light from both ends, or use shorter length of lighting (see Typical Configurations).

To learn more, visit armacostlighting.com/installation for an easy-to-use online voltage drop calculator.

Power supply size

Determining your wattage requirements

LED tape lighting power requirements are stated in watts, and are based on several factors, including your design configuration. LED tape strips can be installed in series (strips connected or wired end-to-end) or in parallel (multiple legs of LED strips or series of strips wired directly to a single power supply).

Choosing a higher wattage power supply does not necessarily mean you can run longer lengths of LED tape light. However, it will allow for more lighting legs in an array design. Exceeding the maximum lengths in the chart at the end of this manual will cause LEDs farthest from the power supply to appear dimmer when at 100% brightness due to voltage drop. Using a higher wattage power supply will not reduce the effect of voltage drop.

How to calculate total wattage required in lighting system

Using the chart below, determine the watts used in each leg of lighting. A straight run is considered one leg. A center feed is two equal length legs of lighting. An array can have many legs. Include only the lengths of LED tape in your calculation, not the connecting wires.

Add together the watts used in each leg of lighting to get total watts required. Note this is when lighting is at 100% full brightness and when it will use the most watts energy.

• Watts used is the power consumed by your LED lighting system, not the watt rating of a power supply.
• Always choose a power supply rated greater than your needs.
• Due to voltage drop, longer lengths of LED tape will use fewer watts per meter than shorter lengths.
• To accurately measure watts used by your LED lighting system, use a multimeter. Watts is calculated by multiplying volts by amps used in your LED system.

Cutting, connecting and wiring

There are two methods for connecting power wires and splicing together two pieces of LED tape lighting: soldering or using Armacost Lighting connectors.

Soldering is a sure method for making strong, reliable electrical connections. For tips on how to solder RibbonFlex, visit armacostlighting.com/installation.

Soldered connections are required for marine and RV applications due to vehicle movement and vibrations.

Always connect power wires to your tape lighting before removing the 3M tape backing and installing.

How to cut tape light

This tape light model can be cut at the copper pads. Whether you are soldering wires or using connectors, cut the LED tape with scissors directly in the center of the copper pad as shown in position “A” below. You can also cut the tape at position “B,” however, do not use connectors on soldered tape light joints. You can solder wires at these joints.

Always maintain same wire polarity when connecting.

Use the indicators printed on the tape light to maintain the same polarity and correct color sequencing.

Using connectors

RGB tape light has four copper pads and should only be used with Armacost Lighting RGB connectors. RGB+W tape light has fi ve copper pads and should only be used with Armacost Lighting RGB+W connectors.

Connectors with wire are used for going around corners or, when cut in half, to create two power leads or jumper cables to bridge gaps in order to get tape lighting to other areas.

To increase the wire length between two LED strips, simply cut the connector wire in two and splice in the length of wire needed. 22 gauge or heavier wire is generally recommended. Do not coil excess wire; shorter lengths and thicker wire will mean less voltage drop and higher brightness.

Be sure all wire splice connections are secure and sealed. Options include soldering, electrical tape, crimp connectors, terminal blocks, wire nuts, etc.

Splice connectors

Splice connectors are used to join two tape light strips, creating a continuous run of lighting.

If the indicator marks do not line up, flip the tape strip and use the opposite end for proper alignment.

Installing SureLock Connectors

SureLock Connectors – both the wire and splice models – connect to the copper pads on cut sections of LED tape light. Connect to clean copper pads. Do not use connectors on soldered joints.

• Carefully peel back a small section of the 3M ® adhesive tape paper backing – remove only the paper, not the adhesive underneath.
• With the connector in an upright position (logo facing up), carefully insert the LED tape into the channel grooves as shown.
• Use a gentle, side-to-side motion while inserting to make sure the tape light is seated fully inside the connector.
• Once the lighting is seated, push to close and securely lock the pressure pad door. If needed, put the tape and connector upside down on a hard surface and use a flat head screwdriver to close and lock the door in place.

Follow the same basic instructions when using SureLock Splice Connectors.

Installing Snap Connectors

• Pry open lid on the snap connector (splice connector has two lids).
• Using a side-to-side motion, carefully slide tape strip into connector channel as shown below so the copper pads on the tape are positioned underneath the connector contacts.
• Close and snap down connector lid.
• Perform a power test to be sure connection is secure and LEDs light before final installation.
• If LEDs do not light, or LEDs flicker, repeat the steps outlined above.

Surface preparation and installation

Before removing the 3M paper backing, test the LED strip in the space you intend to light. Once the paper backing is removed and the lighting is fully installed, you cannot reposition or move the LED tape light to another location. The tape may not stick securely.

Do not power LED tape while coiled on reel, as the LEDs will overheat. It is normal for the tape to feel warm to the touch when holding it. Once installed, the mounting surface will act as a heat sink to dissipate heat. Power the LED tape light and temporarily hold or tape into position with painter’s tape – do not remove the 3M paper backing. Do not stare directly into the LEDs.

Try various angles and positions to get the desired level of illumination and lighting appearance. If the LEDs create undesirable bright spots on walls or reflections, reposition the tape light strip farther away from surfaces or try a different mounting angle.

See placement options for under cabinet lighting on page 4.

Going around corners

Although LED tape lighting is thin and flexible, it is not designed to make sideways or lateral bends and turns, which can damage the lighting. Use a SureLock Connector to go around corners or create soft bends with a loop that will make the tape lighting change direction sideways.

• Mounting surfaces should be smooth, clean, completely dry, dust free and above 60ºF (15 ºC) before installing/sticking the LED tape strip in place. Thoroughly clean all mounting surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Do not use common rubbing alcohol and household cleaners, which may leave behind residues.
• For best adhesion, lightly sand the surface where you will mount the tape lighting with fi ne grit sandpaper (150-300 grit). Sand in a circular motion rather than straight-line motion.
• When installing on painted surfaces, paint should be fully cured based on manufacturer’s cure time.
• Be careful not to peel off the 3M adhesive from LED strip; just remove the tan paper backing.
• 3M sticky back tape requires pressure to activate the adhesive. Working from one end to the other, firmly press the tape down with your fingers, taking care not to press on the individual LEDs.
• Support power wire leads, especially when mounting under cabinets and shelves.

Placement options for under cabinet lighting

For maximum light output , mount the LED tape towards the front of the cabinet with LEDs facing down. To focus light on the work surface and also light your backsplash, position the tape light an inch or two back from the front of the cabinet. This mounting position works best with dull or matte finished surfaces.

If your countertop is reflective , install the LED tape lighting on the inside back of the cabinet lip frame with the LEDs facing towards your backsplash. This method helps eliminate unwanted light reflections and bright spots reflecting off your countertop. Because of the wide beam angle of the tape light, this mounting position will still provide ample lighting.

Continuous run mounting of LED tape lighting is achieved by drilling a 1/2 in. hole through cabinet side frame lips. When mounting on the back side of the front frame lip, use a multi-tool oscillating saw to make small vertical cuts in the dividers to create slots that allow the tape lighting to pass from one cabinet to another.

Create a visual barrier when mounting under a cabinet or shelf with no lip to conceal the LED tape light strip. Use a piece of angle trim, quarter round molding, or any type of trim desired to hide the LEDs.

Troubleshooting

Tape light strip does not light

• Make sure your LED power supply is turned on and receiving power.
• Confirm you have maintained correct polarity when connecting the power supply to the controller, and ensure that you have maintained polarity and consistent wire color sequencing from the controller to the LED tape light.
• Check all tape light and controller connections from the power supply to the LED tape light. Consider testing with a multimeter to ensure light strip is receiving power.

Only part of the LED tape light strip is lit

• Check connections to the part of the strip that is not lit.
• Confirm that you have maintained correct polarity and wire color sequencing to the unlit section.
• If only 1 LED series is out, cut out and remove the damaged LED group and splice together LED tape strips or replace with new LED section.

LED tape lights blink on, then go off

• Your power supply is not adequate for the length of LED tape light you are powering. Install a higher wattage power supply or reduce watts used by shortening the lengths of your LED tape lighting.

LEDs farthest from the power supply are noticeably dimmer or you see a color shift

• This is the result of voltage drop. Decrease the length of the power feed wires or use thicker power feed wires between the power supply, the controller, and the tape lighting.
• Use shorter lengths of LED tape lighting. Refer to Typical configurations in these guidelines. Consider a different configuration.

Visit armacostlighting.com/installation for additional installation tips and FAQs.

SPECIFICATIONS

Input voltage  ————————— 12- or 24-volt DC
LED modules ————————— RGB: SMD 5050 tri-chip RGB
———————————————RGB+W: SMD 5050 tri-chip RGB & 2835 white
Beam angle —————————— 120° wide
Tape height/width  ——————— 2mm x 10mm
Listings   ——————————— CE, RoHS, CSA
Country of origin  ——————— China

See product packaging or visit armacostlighting.com for additional product- specific information.

Three-year limited warranty

Improper installation, abuse, or failure to use this product for its intended purpose will void warranty. This warranty only applies when all components, including LED power supplies, have been provided by or approved for use by Armacost Lighting. The warranty does not cover labor or any other costs or expense to remove or install any defective, repaired or replaced products.

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