Bailey 1:32 Drop Deck Low Loader Instruction Manual
- June 16, 2024
- Bailey
Table of Contents
Bailey 1:32 Drop Deck Low Loader
Installation instructions
1:32 Bailey Drop Deck Low Loader 2x Laser Cut Sheets, 1x Checker Plate Sheet, 2x Wheels and Tyres, 2x Wheel Chocks, 2x Mud flaps, Steel Axle, Wire Rod, Tyres, 2x Wheel Chocks, 2x Mud flaps, Steel Axle, Wire Rod,
This is a rough guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each
stage to make sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations
that are not in the instructions should be carried out.
Paint: Components can be painted at any time in the build, it is a case of
what suits the builder. We tend to use Automotive spray paints such as
Halfords or 1:32 Bailey Drop Deck Low Loader 2x Laser Cut Sheets, 1x Checker
Plate Sheet, 2x Wheels and Tyres, 2x Wheel Chocks, 2x Mudflaps, Steel Axle,
Wire Rod, Straw Spacer, Decals.
Step One. Remove parts from the sprue, remove the plastic backing and
sand the parts.
Take care when removing parts, acrylic is a brittle material and can easily
snap with too much pressure. To remove parts from the sprue gently apply
pressure to the sprue attachment points with a craft knife until the part pops
out.
Peel the plastic off the back, this is best achieved by nicking a corner with
a craft knife and peeling. To improve the adhesion of glue and paint we
TAKE CARE WHEN REMOVING PARTS FROM THE SPRUE.
Acrylic plastic is brittle and should be handled with care. Remove from sprue
using a knife or snips.
Step Two. Start by gluing the front panel 4 to the front of the floor 1.
Make sure the slots align and are the right way up.
Step Three. Add the two sides 3to the floor, the shorter space between slots goes at the front.
Step Four. Assemble the tow beam. Glue the two 2’s back to back and then add the tow eye 14 to the top of the sloped end as pictured.
Step Five. Glue the tow beam into the slot at the front. The slope should be at the bottom of the trailer and the beam flush with the top.
Step Six. The main pivots 9 glue to the back of the trailer as illustrated. Each one sits in the slot at the back with the hole at the top of the deck and the overlap on the bottom in the allocated space.
Step Seven. The rear chassis starts by gluing 10 on top of 5. Ensure the
axle hole lines up and the two parts are parallel. Repeat for the other side
making sure to glue the opposite way round!
Step Eight. Glue the two assemblies together using 12 positioned in the slots on 10. Check that the front pivot aligns with the pivots on the main bed, adjust if necessary.
Step Nine. Glue the first panel 6 to the front of the frame. Ensure the panel is glued central on the frame, draw a pencil centre line to help. (Your slots will look different to the photo, don’t worry it’s the one in the picture that’s wrong)
Step Ten. Add the second panel 7 on the angle and finish with the top
panel 8.
Note: You may wish to glue the two chocks onto panel 7 now, or you can
paint them separately and glue on later.
Step Eleven. Add the rear light brackets 13 to the rear corners of 8.
Step Twelve. Glue the toolbox 15 to the back of the frame as pictured.
Step Thirteen. Glue the checker plate to the top of the bed, trim as required.
Step Fourteen. Test fit the mechanism, slide the wire through the pin
holes and captivate the two hydraulic cylinders 11. The bed should lock out
with the top of 8 level with the bed, if not use the small plastic strip to
space out the back of the cylinder lifting the mechanism higher. Lifting the
cylinders using the built in handles will allow the mechanism to drop, this is
abit fiddly, the cylinder may stick on the top of the slot if it’s not
dropping let the cylinders hinge down slightly.
Everything is now ready for paint
PAINT
Step Fifteen. The model is now ready for paint. We recommend using
aerosol spray paints
but the model can be brush painted or airbrushed.
We have used the following paintsHalfords Grey Plastic Acrylic Primer—A good
plastic primer lets the paint get a good grip and not flake off. The halfords
cans are readily available and easy to use.
RAL6002 Green Spray Paint— Supplied by a local car body supply shop you
can also buy pre-mixed RAL aerosols online. This is the best match we know for
modern bailey green, fancy an older look? Try RAL6005. Alternatively you can
use Ford Laurel Green from Halfords for a cheaper but equally effective
option.
Aluminium Effect Spray Paint— The wheels and chocks have been painted
with Hycote Aluminium Effect Aerosol, but any silver paint is suitable.
Leave time between coats and ensure all paint is fully dry before final
assembly.
Step Sixteen. Hand paint any additional details like the toolbox,
cylinders or lights, decals are also provided for the lights.
Add decals as desired, simply cut them out with scissors, peel off the backing
paper and stick down where you want them.
Step Seventeen. Cut the wire to make pins, bending one end over using
pliers. Start by mounting the hydraulic cylinders in their pivots. Use a short
pin, slot through and carefully bend the other end over to lock in place, be
gentle or you will snap the plastic.
Step Eighteen. Slot the longer pin through the lower pivots and the
rear frame to connect the two. Again lock in place by gently bending the end
over.
Finally thread the axle through the rear holes, push the wheels onto the axle
and use the black straw cut to length to space the wheels correctly.
Step Nineteen. Sit back and enjoy the model that YOU built!!! Below are
some further reference photos to aid construction/assembly
Enjoy the build? There’s plenty more kits available from Braemere Models—www.BraemereModels.co.uk Any issues or problems please get in touch wherever you purchased the kit and we’ll do our best to resole any issues.
References
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>