logitech G PRO Load Cell Sim Racing Pedals User Guide

logitech G PRO Load Cell Sim Racing Pedals

FEATURES

1. Clutch Pedal
2. Brake Pedal
3.  Gas Pedal
4. Optional Springs
5. Lubricating Grease
6. Allen Key
7. USB Cable
8. Optional Brake Elastomers

CONNECTION AND INSTALLATION

If attaching to a simulation racing rig / seat then please allow for a maximum depth of 10mm with the M6 bolts that you use. Note the thickness of the plate / platform that you’re attaching the pedals to, add that to 10mm and you will then know the length of M6 bolt that you need to use. Due to the standard sizes of M6 bolt lengths you may need to use washers to prevent longer bolts from encroaching too far inside the pedal unit when attaching it to your rig. You only need to hand tighten – do not use power tools to tighten the bolts.

ADJUSTING PEDAL SPACING

Use the included allen key to loosen the two bolts on the underside of the pedal set and then slide the module until you have the desired spacing between each of the pedal modules. Tighten all bolts to ensure that all of the pedal modules are securely in place and won’t move during a race.

ADJUSTING PEDAL FACES

The pedal faces can also be adjusted to fine tune the spacing between the pedal faces, as well as the height of the pedal face on the pedal arm. The Clutch and Brake pedal faces can be adjusted horizontally and vertically using the holes provided. The Gas pedal can be adjusted vertically.
Loosen the two bolts in the pedal face. Remove the bolts, reposition the pedal face in the desired position and then reinsert and secure the bolts.

ADJUSTING PEDAL SPRING FORCE

All of the pedals can have different levels of spring force applied, using the springs (Gas and Clutch) and elastomer dampeners (Brake) included in the accessory box. The process for starting this is the same for all three pedals and involves lifting the piston out of its location in the pedal module.
The easiest way to achieve this is to wrap your hand around the pedal face from the front and grip the knurled edge of the piston body. You then squeeze the piston to dislocate it from its locking position using the pedal face / arm as leverage and lift it out of the cavity in the pedal module where it sits.

GAS AND CLUTCH

Once the piston is clear of the main pedal module, simply pull it away from the steel rod and remove the spring. There are four springs included in the box, two of which are already mounted on the Clutch and Gas pedals. Simply choose one of the other springs and reverse the process: Push the spring back over the steel rod and then push the piston back onto the rod, ensuring the spring is captured by the two locators.
Then reinsert the piston back into its place, reversing the process by which you lifted it out: squeeze the piston using the pedal face / arm as leverage and then lower it into place, ensuring that the bottom of the piston is in the correct orientation to locate securely.
NOTE:
When you have relocated the piston in place, try pressing the pedal a couple of times to ensure that the movement is smooth and free of any noise. If you notice any noises as you press the pedal, try rotating the spring slightly in place and press the pedal. Keep doing this until you hear no noises.

BRAKE

The brake is different to the Gas and Clutch as it uses the elastomer dampeners found in the accessory box. The procedure is still straightforward though. Once the piston has been lifted clear from the pedal module you need to open the piston in order to access the elastomer pieces inside it. To do this grip the knurled cap at the top of the piston in one hand and then unscrew the body of the piston from the cap.
Once the piston body is removed from the cap, turn it upside down and shake the elastomer pieces out. They will be slightly sticky with lubricating grease so do have something available to wipe your hands on.
You will notice that there are three pieces of elastomer or foam in the piston body: two of equal size and one slightly smaller one. The smaller piece must always be present in the piston body with the other two pieces determining the overall feeling of the brake pedal, enabling you to configure to be fairly soft with a larger range of travel or, alternatively, as hard and limited in travel as some real race cars. Also, the small piece should always be at the bottom of the piston: You can alter the feeling of the brake using the different pairings of elastomer pieces as determined by this table:
You will note that there are two small foam pieces provided, one soft and one hard – only one of these should be used in combination with two
of the larger elastomer pieces.

NOTE:
We do not recommend using combinations that include the soft beige piece if the PRO Pedals are hard mounted into a simulation rig / seat as this will likely result in damage to the elastomer. Conversely, we do not recommend using the hard elastomers if you are using the pedals in a desk-based scenario. Unless the pedals are secured in some manner this could easily result in the pedals tipping when applying the brake, or the pedals sliding away from you.
Once you have chosen your elastomer pieces apply a small amount of the included grease to the sides of the pieces and insert them back into the piston body remembering to insert the small piece first. Two or three drops applied to various sides of the elastomer and spread using the tip of the bottle should be more than enough.
Once the elastomer pieces are back in the piston body you can reattach it to the cap on the brake pedal module and then reinsert it into place using the same method as the other pedals.

SAFETY WARNING:
With the very hard pieces of elastomer (and especially if using the small hard foam dampener) some strength will be required to squeeze the piston body enough to enable it to be reinserted into place. Please do take care to avoid trapping your fingers between the piston body and the pedal module casing.
Our suggested method for doing this as depicted in this manual should help avoid this possibility.

CUSTOM PEDAL SETUP

The PRO Racing Pedals have been intentionally designed to allow anyone to mount the pedal modules in any manner that they wish. The pedal modules can be completely removed from the main pedal base that they are attached to and then mounted into a custom simulation rig in any orientation to suit your needs.
If you want to create a setup where the clutch and brake are inverted and the gas is floor mounted then this is entirely possible. All you need to achieve this are the pedal modules and the Pedal Hub.
First, unplug the pedal modules from the hub. Next, remove the bolts holding the pedal modules on to the pedal base, taking care not to let them fall in the process. Lift them away from the base and feed the cable for each module through the holes in the pedal base, ensuring they don’t get caught. Next remove the screws holding the Pedal Hub into the pedal base and lift it out of the base. You can now mount the pedal modules into your custom simulation rig as you need them – just connect them back into the Pedal Hub and then connect the Hub into your PC or directly into the back of a compatible Logitech Racing Wheel (if you own one).

G HUB SETTINGS

Your PRO Racing Pedals can be configured using the G HUB software on PC, whether they’re connected directly to your PC or into a compatible Logitech Racing Wheel.
You have the ability to adjust the sensitivity of your pedals and the amount of pressure required to produce 100% axis output on the load cell-equipped brake pedal.

SENSITIVITY

The sensitivity slider enables you to change the linearity of the pedal response. If you leave it at 50 then this will result in a 1:1 linear response between the physical movement of the pedal and the axis output to your racing titles. Any adjustment above or below this will introduce a curve to the axis output;

• As you increase from 50 to 100 then the pedal will become increasingly responsive at the start of the pedal travel (meaning you will see a much quicker increase in axis response at first)
• As you decrease from 50 to 1 then the pedal will become decreasingly responsive at the start of the pedal travel (meaning you will see a much slower increase in axis response at first)

It is generally recommended to leave this setting at 50, but the flexibility is there should you wish to experiment. You can see the actual response of the pedal here in G HUB; as you press it you will see the axis response indicator change, so you can easily see the results of any adjustments that you make.

BRAKE FORCE

This changes how much pressure is required in order to make the brake pedal achieve 100% axis output. The default value is 30, which for the PRO Racing Pedals equates to 30kg of force; logically therefore if you set this to the maximum of 100 then 100kg of force is required to achieve 100% axis output. The amount of force to be used is very subjective but should be considered with regards to the following factors:

• Whether the pedals are mounted into a racing rig, or sat on the floor
• The actual strength of the person using the pedals
• Which combination of elastomers you have installed into the brake pedal

For floor-mounted scenarios, 30kg is likely the maximum, unless the pedals are secured (such as pushed against a wall under your desk); indeed, lower values are likely required in order to prevent the pedals from sliding away from you whilst in use.
For rig-based scenarios, the limit becomes purely about the overall strength of the rig, the person using the pedals and the elastomers that you have chosen to use. As mentioned earlier in the manual, it is strongly recommended not to use elastomer combinations that include the softer beige piece when setting forces higher than 30kg otherwise you could cause damage to this through prolonged use.
Due to the onscreen axis response indication it’s easy to experiment with different force settings to see what suits you the best. A good recommendation, especially when racing cars without ABS, is to set the force so that you can’t easily achieve 100% axis output – if you always bottom out your brakes then it’s likely to result in the locking up of your wheels, losing grip and sliding off the track.
NOTE: If connected to a compatible Logitech Racing Wheel with an integrated display then you can also adjust the Brake Force setting using the wheel, as well as see the response output of the brake pedal.

COMBINED PEDALS
This is usually only required if using very old racing titles. Pedals on older racing wheels would often only have a brake and a gas pedal, with each pedal representing one half of the same axis. Combined Pedal mode changes the default configuration of the PRO Racing Pedals from fully separate axes for the brake and the gas, to a combined mode, so that you should still be able to use them in older titles that don’t support pedals with separate axes.
It is highly recommended for the vast majority of racing titles that this box is therefore left unticked, in order to get the most out of your PRO Racing Pedals.

RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE

Your PRO Racing Pedals have been engineered to continue to operate for many hundreds of hours and feel as good as they did when you first started using them. As with your real car though, it is recommended to keep them clean by performing some simple, semi-regular maintenance.

Regular maintenance (weekly)
Clean the base and each pedal with a damp, lint-free cloth, ensuring that there is no excess water present in the cloth

Every 200 hours
Remove any excess built-up grease (especially on the brake pedal) using a clean cloth or piece of kitchen towel. Reapply new grease (sparingly) to ensure continued smooth operation of the pedals. If you run out of the supplied grease then you may source a replacement of your own. However, you must only use a silicone-based grease/lubricant in order to prevent any issues. Petroleum-based lubricants or Gasoline and Hydrocarbon solvents must NOT be used as they will degrade the components used in the pedals.
QUESTIONS?
logitechG.com/support/pro-pedals

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