MORIMOTO BAF132H Bigbanger and Bangerbar Wire Harness Installation Guide
- June 8, 2024
- MORIMOTO
Table of Contents
MORIMOTO BAF132H Bigbanger and Bangerbar Wire Harness Installation Guide
Harness Diagram
DISCLOSURE
While BangerBar harnesses are designed to minimize modifications to your
vehicle and its wiring, some modifications may be required in order to create
an optimal path for routing the wiring. The BigBanger version also requires a
T-tap into the low beam or parking light circuit. Professional installation is
highly recommended. Morimoto is not responsible for improper installation,
improper usage, and/or any modifications made to your vehicle.
SWITCHES
Each harness has two triggers, so that you can control the illumination of the LED pods independently. (e.g. you can illuminate the outer four pods alone, and the inner three pods alone). The harness includes two kinds of switches, described below:
NEW PUSH BUTTON SWITCHES
Use the included Push Buttons.
These universal switches can be installed on any flat surface panel inside the cabin. (Requires 0.75in hole)
OE UPFITTER SWITCHES
Use the upfitter trigger harnesses.
These provide a single positive (+) lead that should be wired to the hot Leads from your OE upfitter switches in the engine bay.
TIP 1:
Run the wiring for your switches before using the barrel connector to link it
with the main body of the relay harness. This will make passing the wiring
through your vehicle’s firewall much easier. There is a rubber gasket pre-
installed on the line to re-seal any holes you need to make in order to run
the wiring (mates with a 0.75in hole).
TIP 2:
Want to control the entire light bar off one switch? If using the supplied
push buttons, remove the green wire from the second switch and tie it into the
blue wire on the first switch. If using trigger wires, connect both trigger
wires to the same upfitter switch wire.
TIP 3:
The harness is built to work with up to 7 pods, however, it can also be
used to power shorter bars. If running 6 pods instead of 7, skip one of the
middle three connectors for a 2+2+2 switching configuration. If running 5 pods
instead of 7, skip the first and last connector for a 1+3+1 switching
configuration. Remember to use the included DT connector caps to seal off any
unused connectors.
FUSE TAPS
The harness is designed to provide power to the backlight on the BigBanger pods using an ignition-switched fuse location.
TIP :
In order to identify a fuse position in your fuse box that provides 12V
only when the engine is running, use a multi-meter or test light to test
various positions with the engine / accessory power completely off, and re-
test with it on. In most cases you can find a suitable location in the fuse
box under the hood. Certain Toyota trucks require use of the fuse panel under
the dash.
Once you identify a position that can be used to power the backlight, use the appropriately-sized Fuse Tap connector to replace that fuse, and re-install the original fuse into the top of the fuse tap.
BACK LIGHT DIMMER
The back light on the BigBanger pods is designed with a low-intensity mode for use at dusk/night time. The full-intensity back-light is too bright to be used in the dark and will be glaring to oncoming traffic.
In order to trigger the Low-intensity mode: use the included t-tap connector to tap this wire into the positive circuit for your low beam headlights, or parking Lights.
When those lights are on, your BigBanger backlight will automatically dim down
for use in the dark.
When those lights are off, the backlight will run at full intensity.
RELAYS
The relays transfer the power from the battery to the light bar. While they are waterproof, it is highly recommended that you find a safe location to mount them.
TIP :
To maximize lifespan & reliability, use the integrated hanger and install
with the wires facing downwards.
BATTERY TERMINALS
The relay draws 12V from your battery to power the light bar and its backlight. Make sure these are securely connected to the contacts on your positive and ground leads. There are two in-line 40A fuses with the positive battery terminal connection. Re-cover the positive terminal after connecting.
OUTPUTS
In order to safely power all of these high-powered LED pods; The main output line has to be big in diameter. This often makes it difficult to conveniently route the output-wiring from the engine compartment up to your roof.
The most ideal path for this run of wiring will vary by make & model, but the most typical options are as follows:
EXTERNALLY
Along the edge of the windshield glass and A-Pillar
This kit is a great solution to secure / cover the wiring
INTERNALL
Through the firewall and up the inner side of the A-Pillar behind the interior trim panel.
The wiring is then passed up and out, through a hole that is drilled into the channel for the roof rack. It must be carefully resealed to avoid leaking.
De-pin the inline connector in order to drastically reduce the diameter of the line. Doing so will make it easier to run the wiring, and/or reduce the diameter of any holes that need to be drilled in order to accommodate it. To do so, disconnect the connector, snap a photo of the wiring order, and use a de-pinning tool (or tiny flat-blade screw driver) to carefully de-pin the male pins from the plastic socket. For more specific advice on de-pinning the large DT connector, check out this video @ 1:20.
TIP :
Make sure to carefully re-assemble the connector in reverse order, and if you needed to drill any holes, take care in re-sealing.