TRANSGO SK200-4R-B Valve Body-ACCM-Servo Kit Instruction Manual

TRANSGO SK200-4R-B Valve Body-ACCM-Servo Kit

SYSTEMS CORRECTION AND CALIBRATION KIT
MOST OF THIS THICK PAPER IS TECHNICAL INFO, THAT IS NOT IN THE REPAIR MANUALS SO THAT YOU CAN PREVEN T ERRORS, AND ALSO CORRECT ERRORS SOMEONE ELSE COULD HAVE “BUILT IN.” THE SHIFT KIT® IS THE EASY PART.

THE COMPlAINTS

• 3-2 CUT LOOSE OR RUNAWAY
• 1-2 SOFT, SLIDE OR SLIDE BUMP
• WRONG GEAR STARTS OR 2ND GEAR STARTS DOWNSHIFT CLUNK – BANG or ROUGH 2-3
• PART THROTTLE TO 1 ST UNDER 35 MPH
• TV WON’T ADJUST PROPERLY
• LATE SHIFTS or EARLY SHIFTS
• KICKDOWN DELAY OR BIND UP ABOVE 50 MPH BUZZ, MOAN or PUMP CLATTER
• WHAT IS SUCCESS??? ARE YOU READY FOR SOME?
• IF YOU KNOW WHY YOU ARE DOING IT, IT COULD TURN OUT BETTER THAN EXPECTED.

START HERE – AND READ THE WHOLE THING

• Are you ready to road test this trans and NOT HAVE a 3-2 cut loss or a 1-2 slide or slide bump?
• Are you ready to road test this trans and NOT HAVE now or 6 months from now, a 3-2 cut loose, a 1-2 slide or a slide bump?
• Would you like to give this vehicle back to your customer without the “traditional” downshift clunk and severe neutral to drive engagement?
• Are you ready for gear changes that are crisper with more throttle, instead of longer and softer?
• You can uncross your fingers about the 2nd gear band and the direct clutch burnout also because the CAUSES of their failure will be corrected.
• All of the UPSHIFTS and DOWNSHIFTS in this trans are ACCUMULATED, except the 2-1 downshift@ 8 MPH. This means that AN Y slide, bump, bang, or clang is
• proof of a SLIPPING friction unit, that does not apply during the ACCUMULATOR action, then applies abruptly.
• Even when you get this job for other reasons, such as a stripped Sun Gear Shell (Input Drum) or broken pump rings, have you noticed that the shifting comp­laints just seem to APPEAR, like the intestinal flu with a good headache for a bonus?

THE QUESTIONS

1.  Are the CAUSES there since day one and nobody noticed?
2.  Do they “wear in” over time and miles from WARP & WEAR?
3.  Are they inherent in the design and time lets them appear?
4.  Is it something that you do or do not do during repair?

SOME OF THE ANSWERS

SINCE DAY ONE?
Some of the complaints are noticed from the start, with a careful road test on a hot day. The complaints new or nearly new are a 1-2 slide, 1-2 slide bump, a long soft 1-2 above 5/s throttle (starts at 32 and finishes at 40MPH), a slight flair or cut loose during a 3-2 part throttle KD at 26-40MPH, a long delay during KD above 55MPH, a coasting downshift clunk and a rough forward engagement.

Why are not these complaints dealt with during warranty?
Though the complaints are there, they are not yet interfering with the vehicle’s ability to get “there” and back again. Also, it’s new, it smells good, it’s com­fortable, and who wants to admit, in much of a hurry, that his @ $?0,000 decision wasn’t quite perfect? Those who do complain and have enough horsepower to get the service person’s attention AND are also willing to be without their car while the dealer “investigates” the complaint, usually hear the standard “Fairy Tale”. “I really don’t think there is anything wrong with it. Yes, some of them do have this complaint. The engrs are working on this problem, we will let you know if a solution is discovered.” And, the mind- boggling statement of paradoxical nonsense, which is, “George, don’t you worry about a thing, just keep driving, because it’s GUARANTEED.” All of that yak, is just a backhanded way of not telling the truth of, “I am sorry George, but we don’t know how to fix it.”

WARP AND WEAR
Does play a big part in the com­plaints. Only when the trans is brand new are all the parts flat, square and parallel. This means that if the flow and regulation were PERFECTLY cor­rect when the trans was new, those same specs could not be correct, even with what could be considered “normal” warp and wear.

INHERENT IN THE DESIGN?
Of course, they are inher­ent in the design, but if all the inherent possible failings were designed out, the vehicle would cost$10,000,000 and you (and we) wouldn’t have a job. It is now your job to correct the causes of complaint/failure. You are now the one getting paid for the fix, not the factory. The combination of 1, 2 & 3 added together really mat­ter, but there is something else that changes more than the trans. THE ENGINE.

A seasoned engine (40-80,000 miles), at 5/a throttle, will have as much power, as wide open throttle had when the engine was brand new. When an engine is new, it re­quires @ 50 ft. lbs. of torque just to rotate it. With 60,000 miles on it 10 ft. lbs. may turn it. This means that at ½ throttle in 2nd at 30 MPH the engine is del­ivering 40 lbs. more torque than it did new. When the engine was new the compression ratio is usually around 7½ to 1. (maybe even less) In 60,000 miles carbon has built up in the chamber to cause a compression ratio of 8¾ to 1. This increases torque output by 16%.  At 60,000 miles the engine has 16% more torque at all throttle openings, plus 40 lbs. from the reduction in engine friction.

NEW ENGINE
With@  ¾ throttle a 3-2 kick down at 30 MPH lets the engine rev up to@ 3000 RPM. When new this is@ 200 ft. lbs. of torque. The converter is still multiply­ing torque, at this speed at approx. 1.6 to 1. – 200x 1.6 = 320 ft. lbs. the trans must hold – 60,000

MILE ENGINE
¾ throttle 3-2 kick down pro­duces 200x 1.16 (16%) = 232 plus 40 = 272 at engine times 1.6 at converter = 435 ft. lbs. the trans has to hold, during the downshift. It is not going to make it with the original calibration. Does this explain why a new car may not have a 3-2 cut lose, but a 40-100,000 mile vehicle will have that cut loose even when everything in the trans has been replaced? Does this explain why a 1-2 shift that starts at 40 doesn’t get finished until over 50? What this means is that unless you do something about it during your repair, it is just not fixed. You will find that when you do the SYSTEM CORRECTION technology it will be fixed and everything else you do is just along “for the ride”.

THINGS YOU DO OR DON’T
Now we are down to what really counts. You and what you do. When a customer gives you a job, he does not care about one iota about the concept, design, inherent, disinherit, flat, square, parallel, torque, horsepower, and RPM. He also does not give one hoot whether you put in one clutch or 18. Or 46 seals and 11 bushings or what brand of oil do you use? The job is there for only three reasons and if you are going to give the customer honest value for his money, then you have to be there for the same three reas­ons. These are the things that he needs and wants.

1.  Wants the CAUSES of the complaints/failures corrected.
2.  Wants the vehicle to respond properly to throttle opening.
3.  He wants it to LAST.
   These are also the only things that he can use to judge the value of your work. These are also the only things that you should use to judge the VALUE and the PRICE of your work.

This means that the VALUE and PRICE depend upon how well you do 1, 2, & 3 and not on how many bands, clutches, bushings, and seals you installed. They have nothing to do with correcting CAUSES, or throt­tle RESPONSE or how long it will LAST. Those are just things that you do because – (take your pick) – It proves it was O’hauled. – They were burned out – They had miles on them – They were dirty. Those things may have been the fix in the “Dinosaur” days of the trans business, but not now. A big stack of parts doesn’t fix’em anymore. What fixes to­day’s tr and’s is awareness, awakeness, active data, and active parts that are more CONSCIOUS of the signals sent to them and respond better by sending QUICKER and more DISTINCTIVE instructions to the friction units that are just obedient servants. It doesn’t take a genius to see that SYSTEM CORREC­TION is the TECHNOLOGY that fixes today’s trans and everything else is “Just along for the ride”. Your application of SYSTEM CORRECTION technology IS the EVIDENCE of both your TECHNICAL ability and your ETHICAL correctness because without it this trans is NOT FIXED. “IT’S A LOT EASIER TO FIX THE TRANS
THEN IT IS TO DEAL WITH THE HASSLE.”Our very best to you and your customer, THE TECH TEAM 2621 MERCED AVE., EL MONTE, CALIF. 91733 Featuring BOOTSTRAP® TV US Patent #4, 711,140 Most complaints of LATE or EARL V shifts and clutch or band failure are caused by malfunction of the TV system or a delay in response to throttle opening. We’re con­vinced this new system will continue to perform and prevent the complaints and comebacks caused by TV malfunction.

Want tech assistance? Need Training?
Research tech service has what you need to get those troubling jobs out the door FAST. A private phone number direct to our techni­cians and tech books with the data you need.$92 a month. Call 626-443-0991 GASKETS, SEALS, OR DRILLS ARE NOT FURNISHED AS PART OF THIS KIT. SOME MAY BE INCLUDED FROM TIME TO TIME FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

APPLY PISTON ORIFICE

If the orifice is a cup plug, with a hole in it, it is OK as is. If the orifice is a drilled hole, install a BLACK cup plug furnished. HERE’S HOW: Enlarge the orifice hole with a %2” drill (.147-.157) and install the cup plug into it.

BAND ADJUSTMENT
The clearance for the 2nd gear band is return Install spring WHITE NOT CRITICAL, but it must have SOME. BEFORE CHECKING CLEARANCE: Pt pump pliers.)

BEFORE CHECKING CLEARANCE
cover out against the snap ring with pump pliers.

WITH PAN OFF
Reach up past the v with a screwdriver. Move the band FRONl Must move freely FRONT to REAR 1/a’

WITH PAN ON
If you can turn the drive BACKWARD RDS, by hand, and only feel the reduction, the 2nd gear band clearance

SAFETY CHECK
Push the cover “IN” e slide a paper match between the snap ring. If 2nd gear band wiggle front to rear, you can 1 the driveshaft backward, by hand, if it’s tight, remove one or two GOLD.

CONVERTER CLUTCH SHIFT VALVES

BAND ADJUSTMENT
The clearance for the 2nd gear band is NOT CRITICAL, but it must have SOME.

BEFORE CHECKING CLEARANCE
Pull the cover out against the snap ring with water pump pliers.

WITH PAN OFF
Reach up past the valve body with a screwdriver. Move the band FRONT to REAR. Must move freely FRONT to REAR 1/s” or more.

WITH PAN ON
If you can turn the driveshaft BACKWARDS, by hand, and only feel the gear reduction, the 2nd gear band clearance is OK.

SAFETY CHECK
Push the cover “IN” enough to slide a paper match between the cover and the snap ring. If 2nd gear band will still wiggle front to rear, or you can still turn the driveshaft backward, by hand, it’s OK. If it’s tight, remove one or two GOLD spacers.

HOLD IT

CHECK THE TV SYSTEM BEFORE INSTALLING THE VALVE BODY WHEN IT’S RIGHT, IT WORKS LIKE THIS
Look down the drilled TV hole. Each time the plunger is pushed flush, the valve must move leftward and open the hole 1/3 or more. As the plunger is released slowly, the valve must move rightward and close to the hole. Try it about a dozen times. It should work every time. That’s it. Don’t FORCE THE PLUNGER: If it’s handy or doesn’t want to go flush, there is a bind on the TV valve. The TOUGH spring may be cocked and binding on the BLUE spring. Rotate the TOUGH spring and try it again. Still Hang? Try the TOUGH spring by itself.GASKETS, SEALS, OR DRILLS ARE NOT FURNISHED AS PART OF THIS KIT. SOME MAY BE INCLUDED FROM TIME TO TIME FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

CHECK THE TV SYSTEM BEFORE INSTALLING THE VALVE BODY WHEN IT’S RIGHT, IT WORKS LIKE THIS
Look down the drilled TV hole. Each time the plunger is pushed flush, the valve must move leftward and open the hole 1/s or more. As the plunge-er is released slowly, the V?lve must move right-ward and close the hole. Try it about a dozen times. It should work every time. That’s it. Don’t FORCE THE PLUNGER: If it’s handy or doesn’t want to go flush, there is a bind on the TV valve. The TOUGH spring may be cocked and binding on the BLUE spring. Rotate the TOUGH spring and try it again. Still Hang? Try the TOUGH spring by itself.GASKETS, SEALS, OR DRILLS ARE NOT FURNISHED AS PART OF THIS KIT. SOME MAY BE INCLUDED FROM TIME TO TIME FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

WHAT SIZE HOLE IS REALLY THE BEST?
V6s have lower axle ratios. They need small holes. Midsize cars 6 & 8 are lighter. They need small holes.

EXAMPLE
Hole “B”-V6s and midsize cars-.062-.067 Full-size VB’s -.068-.073 Cheaters get complaints.

SOME COMMON SENSE
Nearly all of the downshift and upshifting complaints and burned friction is caused by DELAYED or UNDER active pressure condition. The #1 goal of this SysKoKalkit is to correct and prevent UNDER active regulation. And the kit FIXES it. When pressure rise is not correct, the accumul­ator systems cannot work correctly; AND there are NO HOLE SIZES or “Special” plates that can make it work right or prevent friction failure. If you install LARGER HOLES than recommended and don’t have ROUGH SHIFTS, it is PROOF that the trans STILL HAS a PRESSURE rise or accumulator PROBLEM.

WHO NEEDS A 3-4 DAY HEADACHE FOUR TIMES A YEAR?
Our estimate is that one out of four of these jobs will have the wrong VB and plate combination when it arrives. If you are doing exchanges or any parts cross-mixing without knowing what will work and what won’t, you can spend forever fighting NO 2nd, no Lock­up, or early lockup with no unlock. Pay attention to the TECH furnished in this kit. IT WORKS. All diesel AND EXPORTS I Canada that require a cover switch on the 1-2 Accm casting, MUST have a hole-in plate at the “G” location.

STEP4: Hole sizes

Don’t cheat –Use the exact sizes shown

Passenger  Police-Taxis-Limo-Hot Rod

• A= .072-.076    A= .076-.080
• B = .062-.072  B = .072-.076
• C= .072-.076  C= .076-.080
• D= .072-.076  D= .076-.080
• E = .110-.113  E = .113-.116
• F = Plugged  F = Plugged

If the plate doesn’t have hole “E”: Use the gasket as a guide and drill “E” to .110 to .113For firmer 1-2 and 2-3 shifts: Order 2nd piston and cover for an 87 BLl:r:-1< Grand National. It is OK if the inner steel piston fits loose in 2nd applied piston.

GOT A HOLE THAT IS TOO BIG?
Place the part of the plate with the hole that’s too big onto the front or rear face of a sprag race. Put a check ball on the hole and hit it with a light hammer. Then, redrill it to the correct size.

CHEC KBALL LOCATIONS (8) when trans is ON THE BENCH

GASKETS, SEALS, OR DRILLS ARE NOT FURNISHED AS PART OF THIS KIT. SOME MAY BE INCLUDED FROM TIME TO TIME FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE. SHIFT KIT® is the brand name for valve body kits designed by Gil Younger and manufactured by TransGo® Be careful about calling other valve body kits by our brand name, “SHIFT KIT®”. You might end up with some parts that will not be or do what you expected.

IF THE TRANS IS OUT OF THE VEHICLE DO THE PUMP TECH

To REDUCE LEAKS and PREVENT seals from BLOWING OUT -ENLARGE THE FRONT SEAL DRAINBACK HOLE AS SHOWN

THROTTLE AND TV CABLE RELATIONSHIP

For more than thirty-five years I’ve been working on trans’s. It’s common knowledge that I’ve researched, designed, and produced more, successful problem-correcting trans parts, than all other persons or companies put together. ALSO: By many times over, myself and my tech crew, has identified, isolated, researched, and corrected more causes of complaint/failures, that shops have than every­body else, including the car factories. AND YET: Even with all of this experience and all of these results, there are only a VERY FEW THINGS that I am cert­ain that I know PERFECTLY. One of them is: When you ad­just the cables EXACTLY like these instructions, they will be RIGHT. ANY OTHER WAY- Or not doing it, is WRONG.

GASOLINE

1. REMOVE the AIR CLEANER and place it on your BENCH (PLEASE).
2.  Push the TV adjusting TAB and move the cable hous­ing TOWARDS the CARB, as far as it will go.
3.  Have someone floor the gas pedal from INSIDE the car. While they hold the pedal floored, you BEND the THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET away from the carb until the CARB ARM BOTTOMS SOLIDLY against its stop.
4.  While someone is still holding the pedal floored, DEPRESS the adjusting TAB and slide the TV cable housing AWAY from CARB FIRMLY until it stops. Re­lease TAB and let it lock. (Go to Step 5)@Copyright Nov. 1986 by Gil Younger All rights reserved. No part of this paper may be reproduced, copied or trans­cribed without prior written permission of Gil Younger.

DIESEL

1.  Release the locking tab and push the cable HOUSING an inch or more towards the bare CABLE.
2.  Have someone floor the throttle pedal from inside the cab, while you adjust the rods or cable until the arm on the injector pump is against its wide-open stop.
3.  While the throttle is still being held wide open, re­lease the TAB and push the HOUSING FIRMLY away from the bare cable until it stops and engages the TAB.
4.  Go to step 5. NT POCKETKNIFE a deep MARK on the cable HOUSING tight up against the front of the adjustment assembly. This MARK is MAX TV.
5.  Depress TAB and move mark 1/a” towards carb (for­ ward).
6.  Road test BEFORE installing AIR CLEANER.
7.  The first check is tor DETENT. Here’s how: Make a very light or min throttle 1-2 shift. As soon as it shifts, floor the throttle. The trans MUST shift back into 1st. If it doesn’t you need more TV.

SOME HINTS
The mark you made is MAX TV. Moving the mark AWAY from the adjustment assembly reduces the TV. Diesel and gas V8s work best from max to two clicks away (about 3132”). V6s work better with about 4 clicks away from max (%2”). LISTEN UP: This trans will KICK your BUTT good if you let it out the door without a LOW SPEED 2-1 kick down

If you are overhauling this trans, there are some other “NICE THINGS” you might want to do while it is apart.

FOR A SMOOTH NEUTRAL TO DRIVE EN ENGAGEMENT
Sand the forward clutch steel plates, by hand, with 40-180 grit emery. Yes, even NEW ones. HERES WHY: If the plates stop the trans rotation before the cushion spring bottoms, the engagement will be smooth.

HI GH DRUM SURFACE
Sand around the drum with 60-120 emery on two angles to get a cross-hatch pattern. This will ► help the trans have smoother shifts at light throttle openings.

WORN PLATE AT CENTER CHECK BALL
No big deal. A small leak won’t matter. A .015 over the GOLD ball is furnished for normal wear. If the plate is worn badly, use the .030 over BL ACK ball from SK 279 Kit.

THE CHECK BALL INSTALLED MUST HAVE CLEARANCE
Hold the plate firmly down against the valve body. The ball must still wiggle. It could happen that somebody has already done some TRICK and you have a too- firm 1-2 shift. If this happens, give us a ring and we will help you Product support: (626) 443-7451Research has a troubleshooting service by phone & FAX and HI-TECH training for the seri­ous technician who needs to get it right FAST. Every day you spend on a job that won’t ship re­duces a shop volume of $1000 that week and stresses you out. Let us help you get the jobs out FAST. $92 a month. Call 626-443-0991

SUN GEAR SHELL (INPUT DRUM)
If the rotating movement of the sun gear is more than a ¼ of a tooth it should be replaced. You will likely be able to find a used 200 that is still in good condition if cost is a factor. But you should be aware that a good used one is not FOREVER even tho 2-3 years of service could be expected. To get a FOREVER fix order a new heat-treated Input Drum 8648484. It retails from your GM dealer at $24.50

2004R Reverse Fix

Prevents/corrects hot chatter or slip in Reverse

Install the accumulator transfer plate and the 2nd accumulator assembly loosely with bolts. Remove one bolt and install Guppy™ on top of the transfer plate. Swing it leftward against the casting. Yes, the Guppy™ just sticks out over the edge. When the pan is installed, it will pressure the Guppy™ against the plate and fix the reverse leak.

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