STEINBACH Steel wall pool Nuovo round Instruction Manual

STEINBACH Steel wall pool Nuovo round

These installation instructions are valid in general, if you place your pool free. If you sink your pool partially or completely, so please check the separate instructions in the installation manual and the in-stallation instructions enclosed. To protect you from unnecessary surprises, it makes sense that you make a plan before setting up the pool on what material you need and what you want to do in a time schedule. Do not install the swimming pool on a windy day. It is extremely diffi-cult to keep the swimming pool wall upright and it would probably fall, resulting in injuries. Mount the pool liner on a warm, sunny day, so it is easy to interpret in the pool. You shouldn’t also mount the swimming pool liner in direct sunlight, since the thermal expansion not an optimal fit of the film is given. The best time for the installation of the swimming pool liner is in summer, early morning or late even-ing. Do not mount the pool liner at temperatures below 15°C, other- wise the film is stiff and difficult to assemble.
The swimming pool filter system and other accessories may be op-erated electrically. If you do not have appropriate electrical connec-tions in your garden, it is necessary to establish this.
The necessary electrical connections must be made by a licensed electrical contractor. The supply lines are secure and in addition to earth with a residual current circuit breaker 30 milliamps. The rele-vant statutory provisions as ÖVE, VDE etc. must be observed. Avoid sharp objects in the pool. This could lead to damage to the film. Do not climb onto the handrail. This could result in damage to the handrail or the pelvic wall. Swimming pools with a depth of 90 or 120 cm are not suitable for dives or headjumps. Failure to comply could result in severe head or spinal injuries!
Never leave your children unattended when they are in or around the swimming pool!
Should there be children in your home or neighborhood, who can not swim, we recommend you to set up an inexpensive mesh fence which is available in construction stores, around your pool. Tarpau-lins or other pool covers do not provide child safety. So do not leave that pool covers, no matter what kind they are, get rid of the respon-sibility for your children.

Location of your pool (Figure 1) When choosing a location for your pool, you should take considera-tion of several factors.
Under no circumstances, the swimming pool must be installed below ground level. This swimming pool must only be installed above ground and on a hard, solid ground. Your pool should therefore not be bolted on banked surfaces. This could lead to subsidence and thus damage to the swimming pool. If it is possible choose the sunniest spot in your garden. The larger the area of the basin, the better it is. At least you should have an open space of about 90 cm around the pool. If there is the possibility of a sheltered spot, so you should choose for your pool. A swimming pool that is unprotected from the wind is subject to a high heat loss by convection and evaporation. You shouldn’t place your pool next to or under trees, bushes, etc. (large maintenance effort). Under no circumstances your pool should be installed under overhead lines. Avoid providing your pool on landlines.

Location of the filter system
Your pool should be equipped with a sand filter. In free-standing filter systems is a minimum distance from the edge of the pool to be observed. For further information please see the attached description of the filter system.

Preparing an installation site
We want you to have your pool for many years with great pleasure. The effort and care that you put into the preparation of the founda-tions can make a great difference in the life span of your swimming pool and its liner. The better prepared and fixed the place is, the longer you will have to enjoy your swimming pool. Therefore we apply appropriate care. It is absolutely necessary that the ground on which your pool is built is flat and stable (no banked areas). Settlements would inevitably lead to deformity and damage to your pool. Remove roots, grass and stones in the selected area, including those under the ground. The weight of the water will compress these elements between the liner and the earth under the swimming pool, resulting in damages. Grass left underneath the pool liner will rot and give of an unpleasant odor and stones and roots will damage the pool liner.
If you build your pool directly on concrete, asphalt or a similar sur-face, so it is essential that between the substrate and the film a commercial mineral fiber fabric is introduced as a separating layer. Never install this swimming pool inside a garage, or on a balcony, roof, terrace or any other surface that is not completely flat and solid. The maximum weight that the installation site can support must be taken into consideration. The basin is generally not suitable for installation in the ground, there is no guarantee at contravene.

Plot the place of installation
Please refer to the dimensions according to the table and draw on your installation location with lime powder or spray paint.

1. Hammer a peg into the ground in the center of the area where you want your pool.
2. Now drag a circle with a cord and a can of paint or spray with lime powder, with the radius of which is specified in the table.
3. Level the ground in the marked area. The entire area of the swimming pool must be leveled and free of stones and twigs. (Figure 5)

Leveling the place of installation
Using a leveling tool, a straight wooden board or even better would be a yardstick (alu slat) and level the surface down to the level of the lowest point. Do not fill in the holes; dig away higher areas. Scatter a fine layer of sifted sand over the levelled surface and level again. Dig from the raised spots. In no case the subscript throw up, this could lead to subsidence.
Figure 6, 7 Now pave the installation location so until this is completely flat. Only a properly prepared installation site is a prerequisite for a functional pool.

Using floor insulation:
If you isolate the pelvic floor with Styrofoam or Styrodur, it is necessary to make the whole pool to the insulation. Bring to a maximum of 3 cm thick, flat gravel layer and compress them. Then place the insulation into the bottom gravel bed. Figure 9

1. Floor insulation treadable

2. Gravel bed max. 3 cm

3. Excavation turf
   Figure 10

4. Excavation

5. gravel bed

6. floor insulation added sheepishly

With a concrete foundation the instructions are the same, with the concrete slab replaced the gravel bed (thickness depends on the lo-cal conditions at 15 – 20 cm with steel reinforcement).

Underground Installation
In-ground installation of the pool, you must provide a suitable pres-sure protection around the basin. This can be made of lightweight concrete, lean concrete or by building a peripheral wall. Why? The pressure of the back- filling with earth or gravel is a multiple of the water pressure. If no backfill to stabilize with light or lean is done, the pool may collapse during emptying.

Installation of floor rails
Place the bottom profiles around the circular area, except the last profile. The profiles are connected with 2 joints of plastic. Figure 11.12 Unpack the coiled pool wall and place it vertically on a cardboard at the center of the pool circle. The starting end of the wall must be po-sitioned over a base plate, and the holes for the filter hoses should be positioned where the pump and filter will be The wall is rolled clockwise completely over the entire length of the circle in the inner profiles. Figure 13 Complete the circle, line up the holes in the two ends oft he pool wall and join the ends with a bolt and nut through each head. The head oft he bolts must be on the inner surface oft he wall, and the wash-ers and nuts on the outer surface. There are two lines of holes on the wall. It is important that each hole has a screw (except the last one), otherwise, the pool could break when filling. Recheck all of the base plates to make sure each one are centered where the base rails meet. Even make sure, that all lower profiles are set correctly. Now you may cut to measure the last section with a hacksaw. For this you only just need to lift the steel wall a little bit. Also do not for-get the plastic connectors.Figure 14

Using a strip of PVC, cover the bolt heads on the inside of the pool wall to protect the liner from rubbing against objects, which is the main cause of tears in the liner (fig. 16). This tape must adhere firmly, if it’s necessary, use PVC glue. Stick the strip with glue for PVC to insure that for instance the screws are completely covered before moving on to the next step. Figure 15
Make sure that the swimming pool is completely circulare. Figure 16  If you use no floor insulation
Cover the inside bottom border of the circle using clean thin sifted sand free of any stones or foreign objects with a height of 1 – 2 cm and condense this. Press the sand into a vertical triangular-shaped layer that covers the sections and the inside part of the metal wall. The height of this triangular layer must be around 7 cm. In this way, you will prevent the liner from sliding under the metal wall and being damaged due to the pressure and the weight of the water. To avoid running away of the sand, you should install as shown below, in addition, a plastic sheet along the pelvic floor. Figure 17

1. chamfer
2. tape
3. platic film
4. steel jacket

Figure 18

If you use floor insulation
Here you can use our optional Styrofoam wedges. These are glued with an adhesive force on the round floor insulation along the pool wall. Alternatively, you can also make the furrow of sand. Regardless how you make the groove, you have to apply to the floor insulation and the fillet a swimming fleece because otherwise the bottom of the pool liner insulation deprives the plasticizers, the film becomes brittle and thus significantly reduces the lifetime.

Installation of the swimming pool liner
The liner used has been developed to withstand exposure to heat and ultraviolet rays for a long period of time. Therefore, under certain climates and conditions of use, the liner quality can vary slightly.
Never walk on the liner with shoes on. The liner is the most important and delicate part of the swimming pool. Do not use knives or any sharp objects to open the swimming pool bag/container. Carefully separate the liner from the rest of the parts and keep it in a safe place to avoid undesired holes or damages that could be caused by the tools or the metal wall. Install the liner on a sunny day, minimum 20º C, so that it can easily stretch during the installation. It is made of a highly flexible vinyl material.

1. Place the liner (L) in the center of the swimming pool and unfold it towards the sides. Place the rough side towards the inside of the pool. The welded part that joins the base of the liner with the side must perfectly match the lower sections and the wall, all around the inside perimeter at the bottom of the swimming pool. Figure 19
2. Locate the side welding so that it is perfectly right and perpendicu-lar on the ground. This will help you to place the liner without folds.
3. Lift the side of the liner that covers the upper edges of the swim-ming pool and fasten it to the top of the wall with clothespins. Re-move the wrinkles by pulling smoothly outwards and adjust the lin-er. Flatten the pool liner with your hands. Don’t pull too hard. Figure 20
4. It is very important, that the liner is centered, well extended and not wrinkled. Start filling the pool with water, but not more than 2-3 cm and work out all the wrinkles and smooth the liner to the wall. Dont’t strech the liner too much. Now make sure the pool wal lis level. If the level is off by more than 25 mm across the diameter of the pool, empty the pool, take the wall apart and level the founda-tions again. Figure 21
5. Insert the U-profiles (Poolcoping) around the edges of the pool. Af-ter the U-profiles are installed, cut the last profile to the appropriate length. Figure 22, 23

Installation of handrails

1. Now press the handrail profiles on the U profiles.
2. After you complete the circle, cut from the last profile with a hack-saw to measure. Best you continue filling the pool with water halfway. With the weight of the water, the pool will expand. The dis-tance will be more accurate. Make sure that all lower profiles are set correctly before you start cutting. Figure 24 

Installation of the decorative foil (optional)
Now put on the decorative film on the steel jacket and make sure that there are no wrinkles. Now you have to cut in the steel casing prepunched outlets for skimmer and inlet ring all around about 2 inches larger. Figure 25, 26

Installation of the inlet nozzle and skimmer
Also note the information in the description of the skimmer. Continue filling your pool. Keep on filling the swimming pool with water until 5 cm below the cutted inlet nozzle. Scan the circle in the pelvic wall and make a cross- section with a sharp knife (stanley knife), without cutting out beyond the punching out! Figure 27  Insert the inlet nozzle with a seal of the tank wall inside through to the outside. The resulting film triangles on the outside should be cut off along the nozzle clean and accurate. Now bring on the second seal on the outside of the inlet nozzle and screw it together with the plastic nut. Tighten the inlet nozzle orderly (Caution: do not overtighten!). Figure 28

1. seals
2. steel jacket
3. swimming pool liner

If your inlet nozzle should be equipped with a loose pump connec-tion piece, it is necessary to seal the threads with Teflon tape! After placing the inlet nozzle properly, keep on filling the swimming pool with water until 5 cm below the skimmer. First, plug the skimmerflap into the skimmercase. Depending on the design of the skimmer there are 2 seals individually or 1 lip seal in- cluded.

Assembly with two skimmer seals
Take the skimmer flange and a seal and plug one screw at each top on the right and left. Now scan the both openings in the foil and the corresponding holes from the steel wall and pierce them through with a pointed end. Plug the two screws with the skimmer flange and the seal from the inside through to the outside and put on the second seal on the two screws on the tank wall outside. Now onto the pool wall outside the skimmer has to be fixed with the two screws. As a result, the remaining holes are punched in the foil and pushed through the separately screws and bolt together with the skimmer case. Be sure that the skimmer seals are mounted even all round. Tighten the screws diagonally and evenly to ensure tightness. The tightening of the screws may only be done by hand, because not to overtighten the screws (don’t use a cordless screwdriver). As a re-sult, the film square is cut with a sharp knife (Stanley knife) within the skimmer flange. Figure 29 Assembly with V-shaped skimmer seal
Replace the lip seal on the skimmer section. Note the flange holes! Proceed the same as previously described above.

1. steel jacket
2. swimming pool liner
3. seals
4. skimmer flange

After connection to the filter system, the water is filled to approxi-mately half the skimmer. (Figure 30)  If your skimmer should be equipped with a loose pump connection piece, it is necessary to seal the threads with Teflon tape!

End of season
At the end of the season decrease the water level just below the skimmer opening or inlet nozzle of the pool. In addition, the connect-ing tubes to the filter plant have to be dismantled. The filter system or filter pump is drained by opening the drain plugs. Filter systems located outdoor must be accommodated in a frost-free room in the winter. We recommend a winterization only if the water temperature is be-low 12 degrees.

Damage caused by freezing isn’t covered by warranty!
Steinbach VertriebsgmbH, Aistingerstrasse 2, 4311 Schwertberg, Österreich
FR/IT/CZ/HU/HR/SK/SLO/RO/BG/TR: +43 (0) 7262 / 61431-0
e-mail: service@steinbach.at
www.steinbach.at 

References

• Steinbach Pools und Poolzubehör - “we are pool”

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