eurowise MK1 Caddy 4 Link DIY Installation Guide
- May 15, 2024
- eurowise
Table of Contents
eurowise MK1 Caddy 4 Link DIY
Specifications
- Manufacturer: Eurowise
- Model: MK1 Caddy 4-Link DIY
- Location: 4 40 Springbrook Road, Charlotte, NC 28217
- Contact: 704-559-8100 | [email protected]
- Websites: www.eurowise.com | shop.eurowise.com
INSTRUCTION
Caddy Rear 4-link how-to guide
Remove the OEM rear beam, leaf springs, shackles, and brake hose at fittings
on the body.
NOTE: Do not dispose of the beam, as you will need the spindle and brake
backing plate to bolt onto your new beam later on!
First, the front control arm boxes must be mounted.
They fit into the front spring mounting pockets using the factory bolt, and
two additional bolts that must be drilled and tapped into the top of the
pocket.
Clean area on the body where control arm boxes sit against the body of all/any
seam sealer. The box must sit as flush to the bottom of the body as possible.
A simple paint scraper and some elbow grease will remove the factory
undercoating and dirt away.
Place the box into the front, freshly cleaned pockets. Use the picture as a
reference, as the boxes are side-specific. 
Using the long bolt supplied, loosely bolt the box into the pocket using the
factory leaf mounting holes/captive nut.
Now with the box roughly bolted, drill two holes or use a good center punch to
transfer marks onto the body, and then remove the box and drill holes for the
M8 bolt.
Provided in the hardware kit is 4 M8 self-tapping bolts. Use a 6.5mm or 9/32
drill bit to drill a starter hole. Then use an impact drill or normal drill to
run in the self-tapping bolts included.
These two bolts on each side are not structural. The main bolt that runs
horizontally is for strength and those two bolts are just to keep the bracket
from moving.
Now using only the two M8 bolts install the control arm boxes “snug” to the body.
NOTE: Do not install the large through bolt just yet.
- Take four control arm bars and approximately center the heim joints in/out on the bars (they should be close to us when shipped).
- Place the first control arm in the control arm box at the upper position where the bolt holding it to the body passes through.
- Pass the large bolt through the box and control arm heim joint and into the body and begin to tighten it down. Do not tighten completely.
- Once the large bolt is fully threaded into the body, tighten the two M8 bolts holding the box to the body. Now tighten the large bolt for the upper control arm up tight.
- Do this procedure on both sides……That was the hard part!
- Install the lower control arm in each control arm box using supplied M10 bolt and nut.
- Now take the factory bump stop (if it’s still present on your truck) and remove it. The factory bump stops can be disposed of as they will no longer be needed.
- Once removed, you should see a sort of “arrow” slot in body- this will be the air bag mounting “hole”.
Install a supplied carriage bolt into the air bag- only thread it in a couple
turns- it needs to be stick up off bag. 
Now take the air bag, bolt the side up, slide the carriage bolt head into the “arrow head” of the slot, and slide the bag to the back of the back truck until it cannot be slid any further back.
- Once pushed back, spin the bag clockwise until the top of bag mount is tight to the body. The carriage bolt is kept stationary because of its square collar that fits nicely in the body “arrow body” slot.
- Do not spin the bag excessively tight as it only needs to be held snugly to the body for location purposes- the weight of the truck is what keeps it firmly pressed against the body.
- Take the beam and attach four control arms on the truck to the respective mounting tabs on the beam using supplied M10 nuts and bolts.
Install shocks to truck in stock shock locations and attach to beam.
Were almost done!
Now there should be a beam that is attached to the truck by four control arms
and two shocks. All hardware should be tight.
The beam can now be lifted up to the bags that are hanging above the beam on
the truck.
A stud should be pointing down out of the bag, this correlates to the small holes in the bag plate on the beam.
- If it’s not clocked correctly, simply spin the bag a slight amount until the bag will line up with the mounting hole on the beam plate. If the bag becomes loose from the frame rail on the truck, remove the bag and clock carriage bolt a few turns to allow for more adjustment when secured to beam. Once the bag stud is approximately lined up with the smaller bag perch hole, simply lift the beam up to it and install the supplied nut on each bag stud.
- The beam should be hanging from the truck with four control arms, two shocks, and two airbags.
- Disregard the pan-hard bar in this picture installation step follows.
- Now for the pan hard bar install, but first the brake line bracket on the body must be modified to avoid pan hard bar possible interference at full air out conditions.
- Push factory steel lines out of stock tab on the body above the beam, and bend the mount flat to the bottom of the truck.
- Using the supplied bracket and two self-tappers, mount the new brake line tab so the lines are towards the rear of the truck PAST the beam.
- The factory brake lines, if in good shape should be able to be pulled back to their new location. If not, this is a good time for brake safety maintenance. In example: replace your rusty old brake lines.
- Now that the body steel lines are connected to the beam’s rubber lines, the connection point should be behind the beam and not directly over top of it.
- Now take the pan hard bar (shortest bar with heim joints) and adjust the heim joints in/out on the bar to have an even amount of adjustability on either side. This is important as this way you get a full adjustability of axle positioning.
- Install one end of the pan hard bar onto the beam tab location on top of the beam.
- FOn the other end of the bar, install the mounting plate.
- Go ahead and tighten all the M10 bolts up.
- With the beam hanging under the truck lift the pan hard bar up to the bed cross member directly above the beam and square up the pan hard bar plate on it. Using lock pliers
(easiest method we found) clip the plate to the beam. Now one at a time mark and drill each of the m6 holes in the plate to the cross member. Drill a hole and install the bolt- this will help avoid having the plate move in the midst of drilling all the holes. Remove pliers, now you should have the pan hard bar mount bolted to the floor of the truck.
- With a floor jack push the beam up into the truck’s “aired out” position. Everything should move easily and no bidding should occur. Check for interference between truck and the beam.
- Now remove the spindles and brake setup from your OEM beam.
- Using the supplied hardware, bolt the spindles to their respective sides on the beam. Our beam uses nuts and bolts; bolts pass through the spindle/backing plate and out to the backside of the “drop plate” on the beam as pictured.
- Hook up hard lines on beam to wheel cylinder (VERY good time to replace these as they are very cheap and the bleeders generally break on old wheel cylinders).
- Minus air management, you now have an air ride beam in your caddy! Bleed your brakes, check for leaks, and put on your wheels…..we are ALMOST DONE!
- With your wheels on, the truck still on jack stands, and bags not hooked to air management use a jack and press the beam once again to the full “aired out” position. Go slowly and notice the very slight swing of the beam to the driver’s side of the truck- this is caused by the pan hard setup- but fear not it is adjustable!!!!
- With the wheels at full “tuck” use the four main control arms to center your wheels in the wheel wells front to back location. Then using the pan hard bar, center your wheels side to side in the wheel wells. The beam itself should be kept as square to the belly of the truck (the top of the beam square tube flat to the bottom of the truck). If it’s not, simply adjust only one of the four control arms a bit to “twist” the beam.
- Now hook up your air management, back up, and lower the truck onto the ground. Slowly go through the air ride motions of the truck to check for interference between wheels and body.
- Test drive the vehicle and find the desired ride height. Be sure to have an alignment performed at the ride height setting.
With the adjustable control arms, the beam can be aligned square to the front
wheels, and caster set, and you may need a camber adjustment depending on your
“camber needs”. 
Enjoy, pssssshhhh psssssshhhh, scrape scrape!
QR SCAN
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, COMMENTS, OR CONCERNS RELATED TO YOUR PRODUCT PLEASE CONTACT US!
FAQ
- Q: What should I do with the OEM rear beam?
- A: Do not dispose of the rear beam, as you will need the spindle and brake backing plate from it to bolt onto your new beam later on.
- Q: Are the two bolts on each side of the control arm boxes structural?
- A: No, these two bolts are not structural. The main horizontal bolt provides strength, while the side bolts prevent bracket movement.
440 SPRINGBROOK ROAD. CHARLOTTE, NC 28217 |
704-559-8100
[email protected] |
WWW.EUROWISE.COM |
SHOP.EUROWISE.COM
References
- Specializing in European Service, Performance and Fabrication – Eurowise Performance
- Eurowise Audi, BMW, Volkswagen, Mercedes, & Porsche Service