KAVAN BETA 1400 Kit Aeroplane Kits Instruction Manual

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Kit

BETA 1400 Kit
Instruction Manual

PRECAUTIONS:

This R/C model is not a toy. Use it with care and strictly following the instructions in this manual.
Assemble this model following strictly these instructions. DO NOT modify or alter the model. Failure to do so, the warranty will lapse automatically. Follow the instructions in order to obtain a safe and solid model at the end of the assembly. Children under the age of 14 must operate the model under the supervision of an adult. Assure that the model is in perfect conditions before every flight, taking care that all the equipment works correctly and that the model is undamaged in its structure. Fly only in days with light breeze and in a safe place away from any obstacles.

INTRODUCTION

Congratulation on your purchase of the BETA 1400 motor powered glider. You are about to embark on a magical journey into the fascinating world of electric powered RC aero planes.
The BETA 1400 manufactured of the virtually unbreakable EPO foam packed with the latest 2.4GHz radio technology and powered with a mighty brushless motor and Li-Po batteries will help to become an experienced pilot in no time! BETA 1400 is not just an entry level plane but actually a quite good thermal glider that will please any Sunday pilot – a newcomer as well as a seasoned pro!

FEATURES

• Builder’s kit, EPO foam parts
• Aileron, elevator, rudder and throttle control
• Easy handling and high stability; durable, virtually unbreakable electric motor powered glider
• Powerful brushless out runner motor (not supplied in the kit)
• Large wing area, low weight
• Lightweight Li-Po flight pack (not supplied in the kit)

SPECIFICATION

2
Recommended Motor| C2814-1400 out runner
Recommended ESC| KAVAN R-20B 20 A with BEC 5 V

*) Not supplied in the kit.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

General Warnings
An R/C aero plane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only on a safe place following all instructions and recommendations in this manual. Beware of the propeller! Keep loose items that can get entangled in the propeller away from the spinning propeller, including loose clothing, or other objects such as pencils and screwdrivers. Ensure that yours and other people’s hands, and face are kept away from the rotating propeller.
Note on Lithium Polymer Batteries
Lithium Polymer batteries are significantly more vulnerable than alkaline or Ni Cd/NiMH batteries used in R/C applications. All manufacturer’s instructions and warnings must be followed closely. Mishandling of Li Po batteries can result in fire. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when disposing of Lithium Polymer batteries.
Additional Safety Precautions and Warnings
As the user of this product, you are solely responsible for operating it in a manner that does not endanger yourself and others or result in damage to the product or the property of others. This model is controlled by a radio signal that is subject to interference from many sources outside your control. This interference can cause momentary loss of control so it is advisable to always keep a safe distance in all directions around your model, as this margin will help to avoid collisions or injury. Never operate your model with low transmitter batteries. Always operate your model in an open area away from power lines, cars, traffic, or people. Avoid operating your model in populated areas where injury or damage can occur. Carefully follow the directions and warnings for this and any optional support equipment (chargers, rechargeable batteries, etc.) which you use. Keep all chemicals, small parts and anything electrical out of the reach of children. Moisture causes damage to electronics. Avoid water exposure to all equipment not specifically designed and protected for this purpose. Never lick or place any portion of your model in your mouth as it could cause serious injury or even death.

KIT CONTENTS

• EPO foam molded parts, small accessories, 7×6” folding prop and spinner, 2 sheets of stickers

YOU WILL ALSO NEED THE FOLLOWING ACCESSORIES AND TOOLS (not included in the kit)

RC Set, Power Unit, Battery
At least a 4-channel transmitter and receiver, Li-Po flight pack 11.1 V 16002700 mAh, KAVAN C2814-1400 brushless motor or similar, KAVAN R-20B 20 A ESC or similar, 4x KAVAN GO-09 servos or similar, short Y-cable or 2x 20-30 cm extension cable.
Tools:
Small Phillips and flat screwdrivers, 1.5 mm Allen key or screwdriver, hot melt glue gun, sandpaper No. 150-200.
Glue:
Medium or thick cyanoacrylate glue (e.g. KAV9952 or KAV9953), low or medium strength thread locker (blue – e.g. KAV9970), hot melt glue or MS polymer glue (e.g. BISON Poly Max®, Soudan T-Rex®), clear sticky tape.

ASSEMBLY

FUSELAGE
The fuselage is supplied unassembled (with pre-installed push rods, carbon and plywood reinforcements) in the Kit – you are supposed to install the servos, motor and glue the fuselage halves together.
Roughen the contact areas with No. 150-200 sandpaper before applying glue.

1. Rudder Servo Installation (Fig. 1)

• Locate the right fuselage half. You will find the KAVAN GO-09-sized bay for the rudder servo in the rear part of the cockpit compartment.
• Prepare the one side arm supplied with the KAVAN GO-09 (or cut a two side arm to one side arm). Turn on your transmitter, set the rudder stick and trim to the centre (neutral). Connect the rudder servo to the appropriate receiver output (CH4 with the T8FB), plug the ESC’s cable to the throttle channel (CH3 with the T8FB) and connect the flight pack. Insert the Z-bend on the end of the elevator push rod into the middle hole in the servo arm (ca 10 mm from the centre of the arm). Now insert the servo into the servo bay so the servo output shaft was closer to the nose.
• Now attach the servo arm on the output shaft of the servo – it should be square to the side of the servo case as much as possible. Secure the servo arm with the screw supplied with the servo. Glue the servo with drops of hot melt glue or MS polymer glue over the servo lugs. You can use a medium CA as well, but the hot melt glue or MS polymer glue could be easily removed without damage to your model if you ever needed to get the servo out.

2. Motor Mount (Fig. 2+3)

• KAVAN C2814-1400 brushless motor is to be secured to the supplied aluminium mount by two M3 setting screws. Check the correct alignment of the motor mount – the setting screws have to point straight to the access holes in the side of the fuselage. Glue the motor mount using thick cyano or MS polymer glue into the slot in the fuselage.
• Please note the motor is offset up and right. This “up thrust“ and “side thrust” is correct and purely intentional. It compensates the effect of the propeller stream on the fuselage and tail. Check the correct alignment of the both two fuselage halves prior gluing the motor mount permanently into the right fuselage shell.
• Motor direction of rotation check: Connect the motor cables to your ESC and secure the motor into the motor mount with two M2x6 mm setting screws. With your radio on check the direction of rotation of your motor (see fig. 3) as described in the chapter “RC SET INSTALLATION/7. Testing the Power System” in this manual. Once set correctly, remove the motor from the motor mount.

3. Elevator Servo installation (Fig. 4)

• Locate the left fuselage half and install the elevator servo in the same way as you did with the rudder servo. Do not forget to set the servo (CH2 with the T8FB) into the neutral position with you radio on.

4. Joining the Fuselage Shells (Fig. 5)

• Attach the left and right fuselage shell together. Take care they are correctly aligned all around. If necessary, sand the contact area flush to create a neat joint. Once satisfied, apply a bead of thick cya no or MS polymer glue on the right fuselage shell. (Slow setting glue is required here in order to give you some time align the fuselage shells correctly – and double check it). Attach the shells together, check the correct alignment and secure them with modelling pins or masking tape until the glue sets down. Double check the fuselage was straight and untwisted; looking along the longitudinal axis of the fuselage, the joint of the fuselage shells must straight. Take extra care of the good alignment at the wing and tail plane area. This is the most critical step of the entire assembly – now you can make a straight and true fuselage that will give you a pleasant plane to fly – or not.

5. Finishing the Fuselage (Fig. 6)

• Check the correct polarity of the canopy lock magnets and cyano them into the respective recess in the rear side of the cockpit and canopy. Cover it with a piece of clear sticky tape in the end.
• Cyano (alternatively you can use a thin double sided sticky tape or contact cement) the plastic reinforcement to the bottom side of the fuselage.
• After the motor (do not forget to apply a blue thread locker to the setting screws) and ESC have been installed, secure the plastic servo cover into the fuselage using drops of hot melt glue, small pieces of hook and loop tape or small magnets (not supplied in the kit). The point is securing the cover in place – yet making it removable to access the servos if needed.
• Install the propeller yoke and secure it with two M3x6 mm setting screws (do not forget to apply a blue thread locker to the screws). Finally, install the spinner using two M2x8 mm screws. Be sure the propeller rotates freely; no matter what the propeller blades may not graze the fuselage. (Fig. 2)

WING

1. Releasing the Ailerons

• Deflect the ailerons 10 times up and down carefully in order to make them move easily.

2. Aileron Servos Installation (Fig. 7)

• You can find molded servo bays in both two wing halves that fit KAVAN GO-09 servos or similar. Set the aileron servos to the neutral with your radio on (in the same way as you did with the elevator and rudder servos). Attach the one side servo arms so the arms were square to the side of the servo case as much as possible. Please note you must obtain a mirror image pair – simply lay both servos down on the table, the output shaft pointing towards each other and both the servo sides with servo cables pointing in the same direction. Now attach the servo arms – square to the servo case side, same on both two servos. Check the operation of aileron servos and secure the arms with screws supplied with the servos.
• Insert the servos into the servo bays and secure them with drops of hot melt glue or MS polymer glue over the servo lugs. Connect the supplied extension cables to the aileron servos; deploy the servo cable (with the connector put neatly into the bay in the wing) in the aileron servo cable groove. The end of cable should stick out of the wing by 10 cm (4“) in order to allow to insert the cable into the fuselage. Apply a strip of clear sticky tape over the aileron servo cable grooves.

3. Aileron Linkage Installation

• Locate the two short piano wire push rods with pre-formed Z-bend on one end in the accessories bag. Insert the Z-bend into the outer hole in the aileron servo arm. Insert the other end of the push rod into the push rod connector in the aileron arm. Repeat for the other wing half.
• (The position of a push rod in holes of a control arm is a way how to adjust control throws with a non-computer radio. Moving the push rod closer to the control surface gives bigger throws whilst moving the push rod to outer holes reduces the throws. You can also move the position of the push rod Z-bend on the servo arm – in this case moving the push rod closer to the centre of the servo arm reduces the throws – and vice versa.)

4. Wing Joiner (Fig. 8)

• Locate the carbon tube wing joiner, insert it into the housing in the fuselage and slide both wing halves onto  the joiner.

5. Connecting the aileron servos (Fig. 9)

• A. A radio featuring only one aileron channel (like the T8FB supplied in the RTF set): Connect both two aileron servos to a Y-cable (not supplied in the kit). The aileron Y-cable is to be connected to the aileron channel of your receiver (CH1 in the case of T8FB).
• B: A radio featuring 2 independent aileron servo channels: Use two 2030 ccm extension cables (not supplied in the kit) to connect aileron servos to your receiver (typically, CH1 and CH5 or CH6 – it depends on the transmitter and its setting – please refer to the instruction manual of your radio).

6. Securing the Wing

• Secure the wing halves by careful tightening the M5x10 mm setting screws on the bottom side of the wing. (Fig. 10)

7. Aileron Servo Covers (Fig. 7)

• Once the aileron servo operation and aileron linkage has been set and tested successfully, glue the aileron servo covers in place.

TAIL FEATHERS

1. Releasing the Elevator and Rudder
   • Deflect the elevator and rudder 10 times up and down (resp. left and right) carefully in order to make them move easily.

2. Horizontal Tail plane Installation (Fig. 11+12)
   • Glue the horizontal tail plane into the fuselage using medium or thick cyano. Be sure the elevator horn is on the bottom side. Before the glue sets, check the correct alignment of the horizontal tail plane – it has to be square to the fin.

3. Elevator and Rudder Linkage (Fig. 13)
   • Insert the elevator and rudder push rods into the push rod connector in the elevator resp. rudder horn.
   

APPLYING THE STICKERS

• Cut the stickers following the printed outlines; apply them to the surface of your model dampened by water with a few drops of a mild dish detergent. It allows re-positioning of the sticker if necessary. Once satisfied with the position, carefully smooth out the sticker with a soft cloth to remove all air bubbles.

RC SET INSTALLATION

Now you have to install/connect your receiver, servos and electronic speed controller (ESC). (Fig. 14)

• Remove the canopy; lift the rear part up to disengage the magnetic lock.
• Following you radio instruction manual connect the servos and ESC to your receiver – the table shows the channel assignment of the T8FB radio supplied in the RTF kit:
• Put your receiver into the fuselage (into the rear part of the cockpit); you can secure it using a strip of hook-and-loop tape to the fuselage.
• The flight battery pack is to be inserted into the nose of your BETA 1400 and secured by the supplied hook-and-loop strip threaded under the plywood reinforcement plate – the exact position of the battery pack will be determined later during the Centre of Gravity position check.

CAUTION: Always turn on your transmitter first and only then connect the flight pack to the ESC. From now on always handle your model as if the motor might burst into life and the propeller start to spin anytime!

PREFLIGHT CHECK

CHECKING THE CURRENT SET-UP

1. Assure that the transmitter is turned on; place all the trims in their neutral positions and set the throttle stick into the lowest position. Connect the flight pack to the ESC.

2. Checking the control surface neutrals
   Please check all the control surfaces are in the neutral position if the corresponding transmitter sticks and trims are in the centre position. If not, please loosen the setting screw of the corresponding push rod connector and set the control surface to the neutral position. The elevator and rudder has to be flush with the horizontal stabilizer resp. the fin, both two ailerons have to be flush with the wing trailing edge. Once satisfied, apply a drop of thread locker to the setting screw a tighten it.
   CAUTION: If the quick link got loose during flight, your model could become partly or completely uncontrollable. Therefore, you should check the linkage regularly.

3. Testing the Ailerons
   A) Move the aileron stick to the left; (looking from the tail to the nose) the left aileron must move up and the right aileron must drop down simultaneously.
   B) Move the aileron stick to the right; the left aileron must drop down and the right aileron go up simultaneously.
   C) Return the aileron stick to the centre (neutral) – both two ailerons will return to the neutral position. Note: If the ailerons are moving in the opposite direction, you will have to reverse the direction by flipping the aileron reverse switch (AIL) on your transmitter.

4. Testing the Rudder
   A) Move the rudder stick to the left; (looking from the tail to the nose) the rudder must move to the left.
   B) Move the rudder stick to the right; the rudder must move to the right.
   C) Return the ruder stick to the centre (neutral) – the rudder will return to the neutral position.
   Note: If the rudder is moving in the opposite direction, you will have to reverse the direction by flipping the rudder reverse switch (RUD) on your transmitter.

5. Testing the Elevator
   A) The elevator stick is located on the left side on the Mode 1 transmitter or on the right side on the Mode 2 transmitter. Pull the elevator stick down; the elevator must move up).
   B) Push the elevator stick up; the elevator must move down.
   C) Return the elevator stick to the centre (neutral) – the elevator will return to the neutral position.
   Note: If the elevator is moving in the opposite direction, you will have to reverse the direction by flipping the elevator reverse switch (ELE) on your transmitter.

6. Control Surface Throws
   If you carefully followed the instruction in the previous sections of this manual, the correct default control surface throws has been set automatically. The control throws are set by the ratio between the length of the servo arm and the control surface throw – the actual throws set this way are listed in the column “Normal Rate” in the table below. (The throws are always measured in the widest point of the particular control surface.) It is always better to try to reach the requested throws mechanically, adjusting the arm/horn length ratio – even if you have got a fancy computer radio. If you got such a transmitter you can use the function “Dual Rate” (D/R) to get even more forgiving set- up – please refer to the “Low Rate” column. You can also do it mech anicaly – simply move the push rod Z-bends on the servo arms closer to the centre.
   A. A radio featuring only one aileron channel

B. A radio featuring 2 independent aileron servo channels

*Expo – set to decrease the sensitivity around the neutral (Futaba, Hitec, Radio link, Multiplex: -10/-20, Grau pner:  +10/+20etc.)

7. Testing the Power system
   Perform the throttle range calibration procedure as described in the instruction manual supplied with your ESC and check the motor brake function has been turned on.
   A) Turn on the transmitter, set the throttle stick to the lowest position, connect the flight pack to the ESC in the model (ESC has to be set to the “Brake OFF” mode – if your ESC features this option). If the prop rotated slowly, please check the position of the throttle stick and throttle trim.
   B) Slowly move the throttle stick up, the prop should start to rotate clockwise (looking from behind). If it spins in the opposite direction, pull the throttle stick back, disconnect the flight battery and swap any two of the three cables between the motor and the ESC. The re-check again. Repeat the ESC throttle range calibration. Then re-check again.
   Note: If the motor does not respond to the throttle stick advance, check the model power cable connection and the state of charge of your battery.
   CAUTION: Keep away from the propeller once the battery will be connected to the model. Do not try to stop the propeller with your hands or anything else.

8. The Centre of Gravity (Fig. 16)
   A) The CG has to be located 70-75 mm behind the leading edge of the wing. Balance your BETA 1400 supporting the wing with your fingertips 70 mm behind the leading edge for the first flight.
   B) You can fine tune the CG position later to suit your requirements. Moving the CG forward the model flight will be more  stable, moving backward the controls will be become more sensitive, also the thermal ling performance might improve slightly.
   Note: Moving back the CG too much could cause your model would be hard to control or even so unstable that you would not able to control it at all. Now you are ready to fly!

FLYING

CHOOSING THE FLYING FIELD. WEATHER
Flying Field
The flying field should be a flat grassy area. There should be no cars, persons, animals, buildings, power lines, trees or large stones or any other obstacles that BETA 1400 might collide with within the range of ca 150 m. We highly recommend you to join a local model flying club – you will get access to their flying field along with advice and help to make your first steps into model flying much easier and safer.
Weather
Calm summer evenings are perfect for the maiden flight. Your BETA 1400 is a light thermal glider that is the happiest with wind under 5 m/s. DO NOT fly when it is raining or snowing, on foggy days. Thunderstorms are clearly not the right time to fly either.

RANGE CHECK
Perform the range check as described in the instruction manual of your radio. Ask a friend to hold the transmitter, and walk away holding the model in a regular flight position in the height of your shoulders. The servos have to respond to control inputs (control stick movements) without any glitching or jitter, with the motor off and at full throttle within the range stated by the radio manufacturer. Only prepare to fly if the range check is 100% successful.
CAUTION: Never try to fly with your transmitter in the range check (reduced output power) mode!

THE FIRST FLIGHT

Now the most important advice in this entire manual:
During the first flight we recommend that you have the support of an experienced RC pilot.

There is no shame in asking for help – new full size aircraft are test flown by skilled factory test pilots – and only then are regular pilots allowed to take control. RC model control requires some skills and reflexes people are not born with. It is not complicated to gain these skills – it just takes some time; this will vary with your natural talent. Full size pilots start under the supervision of a skilled instructor; they learn to fly at a safe altitude at first, learn landing and take-off techniques, and only then are they allowed to fly solo. The same principles apply with RC models too. Please do not expect that you will be able to put your model in the air and fly it without any previous RC experience.
Many will have gained skills in controlling their favourite computer game character by hammering the control buttons or sticks. For model flying this skill will have to be unlearnt!
The sticks movements required to control your model are small & gentle. Many models including BETA 1400 are happier if you let them “fly by themselves” for most of the time, with small and gentle stick movements to simply guide the model in the required direction. RC flying is not about stick hammering, it is all about small stick movements, and observing the effect of that stick movement. Only later is it possible to anticipate the effect of larger stick movements that can be dangerous to your model in the earlier stages of model flying.

Step 1: Hand launch and initial trimming
The model must be launched into wind every time. Throw grass into the air to observe the wind direction. Turn on your transmitter.
Connect and put the flight pack into the battery compartment and secure the canopy.
Hold your model with the wings and fuselage level (refer to the drawing) – it is better to ask a friend to launch your model than to do everything by yourself – you can then concentrate on the controls.

Launch the model against the wind,

fuselage and wing level

Give the model full throttle and launch your model with a gentle push straight and level. You will feel the point at which the model is trying to fly naturally. Do not give it too strong a push. Do not throw your model with nose up, or greater than 10 degrees down. The model must have a certain minimum speed from the very start to stay airborne. It is not enough to just “put” your model in the air.
If everything is OK BETA 1400 will climb gently. If your BETA 1400 loses altitude, pull the elevator stick very slightly towards you (just a little!) to achieve a steady climb.

Step 2: Flying
Keep your BETA 1400 climbing until she reaches at least 50 m in height, then throttle back the motor just to maintain the level flight. The real flying fun begins now.
Please note:
BETA 1400 is not a large model, so do not let her fly too far away. Please remember you can control your model only so long as you are able to see the model’s orientation in the air. The safe range of your radio is much further than the range of your eyes!

How to control your model?
In contrast to cars or boats, aircraft fly in three dimensional space which makes full control more complex. Turning the steering wheel left or right makes a boat or car to turn left or right, applying more throttle the vehicle speeds up – and this is it. Moving the control sticks left or right has more effect than simply turning the model. The aileron and rudder control will be explained later.
Please note: the control is fully proportional – the more you move the stick, the more movement of the control surface. The actual stick movement required is mostly quite small, and almost never from one end stop to the other!

Elevator controls the model in the vertical axis; apply up elevator and your model’s nose will raise (and the model will climb if it has sufficient power),  apply down elevator and your model will descend. Please note that your model can only climb if it has sufficient power applied. Your model will not necessarily climb simply because you have applied up elevator, and will normally need full power applied for a safe gentle climb. If the climb angle is too great, or the power applied insufficient, your model will
lose flying speed until the minimum (stall) speed. At the stalling speed (when the airflow starts to break away from the upper surface of the wing), your model will start to feel as though it is not responding as normal to control inputs, and then drop with little warning – apply down elevator to regain flying speed and full normal control.
Ailerons control the angle of bank. If you gently move the aileron stick to the left, your model will start bank to the left as long as you are holding the stick. Now if you return the aileron stick to the centre position (neutral), your model will maintain the bank. If you want to resume straight flight you have to move the aileron stick to the opposite direction.
Rudder of a model without ailerons (you might be already familiar with) controls the angle of bank, which then controls the rate of turn. Natural stability of your model keeps the wings level in normal straight flight. Since your BETA 1400 features a “full house” controls including ailerons that are the main means how to control the angle of bank, the use of the rudder is slightly different. You can even start to control your model without use of the rudder – but you will learn lately the correct coordinated turn actually requires both aileron and rudder inputs. Any turn requires an appropriate bank angle – BETA 1400 will fly nice big and safe flat turns with only a small angle of bank. During initial flights never use a bank angle of greater than 45 degrees. By planning the direction that the model will take, normal turns will be made with less than 30 degrees of bank. Move the rudder to the left a little way, and your model will bank into a gentle turn. Increase the rudder input a little more, and your model will continue turning to the left, but it will also start to descend (this is a good time to move the control stick to the centre to allow your model to recover from the dive!).
Why does your model descend when only rudder is applied? Once the rudder leaves its exactly vertical position it also starts to work as an elevator turned down telling your model to dive. When in a banked turn to maintain level flight it is necessary to apply a little up elevator to counter the effect of the down turned rudder. (Actually, the reason why your model descends in the bank is much more complex – the wing gives less lift in the bank as the vertical projection of the wing is the area that counts and you also have to beat the inertia that tries to keep your model in the straight flight…) The elevator applied when your model is in a banked turn also works like a rudder – fortunately it helps to maintain the turn!

Coordinated left turn (180°)

In practise, the ailerons are used to put your model to the desired angle of bank, the rudder is used to maintain it, and the elevator input helps to control height whilst also increasing the rate of turn.
Alternatively, you can use only the ailerons to bank your model, then turn your model using just the elevator and finally resume the straight and level flight with the opposite deflection of ailerons.
We have got through about 3/4 of the turn and it is the time to think about returning to straight and level flight in the desired direction. Return the controls to the middle position (you may need to correct the turn with a little right ailerons and/or rudder).
If necessary give slight elevator input to settle your model into a straight and level flight.
If you take a look at our drawing on the right you will notice that it takes some time until the model actually starts to turn. And, when leaving the turn, you have to start to apply the op- posite ailerons and rudder sooner than the nose of your model is pointing to the desired final direction. The elevator and rudder deflections are marked with dotted lines – this is because you cannot tell exactly the track that the model will take during a gentle banked turn, or entry to straight and level flight.

Congratulations! You have learnt how to achieve a coordinated turn using rudder and elevator. Remember that model aircraft control is about guiding your model in the desired direction rather than precise steering. Another complication is the rudder
control. It is easy and natural while the model is flying away from you, but when your model is flying toward you the direction of control commands has to be reversed. A simple trick when the model is flying towards you is to move the control stick towards the wing that you want to lift, imagine supporting the wing by moving the stick under that wing – it works!

Final setup
Now is the time for the final setup. Fly your BETA 1400 straight into wind, leave the controls in the neutral position. If the model turns in one direction apply the rudder trim in the opposite direction until BETA 1400 flies straight. Without power your model must settle into a gentle glide, not too fast so that it plummets to the ground, and not so slow that the controls feel “soggy” and the model is on the edge of the stall. Apply the elevator trim in  the way described in the initial trimming section.
If your model banks to a side, apply a little of the aileron trim in the opposite direction.

Powered and unpowered flight
The model has been already fine tuned for the unpowered phase of flight.
When you turn on the motor your model might tend to pitch nose up when full throttle is applied. You cannot completely trim out this tendency with any motor powered glider – just be aware of this characteristic when flying your model. In practise you might have to make slight elevator corrections to maintain a gentle, but positive climb.
Landing
When the power available starts to reduce check that you landing field is clear of people and other obstructions. Position your model about 10 to 20m off the ground at the down wind end of your field. Make the final approach into wind, keeping the wings level all the time as your model descends slowly, and finally settles gently onto the ground. With more practice you will be able to use a little up elevator to “round out” (slow down the model) at less than 1m off the ground.

Congratulations!

REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE

• Please perform the range check in the beginning of each flying session.
• Before every take off please check the correct control surface movement.
• After every landing check the plane for any damage, loose push rod connectors or push rods, bent undercarriage, damaged propeller etc. Do not fly again until the damage is repaired.

Although your BETA 1400 is manufactured of the extra tough and virtually unbreakable extruded polyolephine (EPO) foam, damage or broken parts may occur. A minor damage can be repaired simply gluing the parts together with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue or with a clear sticky tape. In a case of a major damage it is always better to purchase a brand new spare part. A wide range of genuine spare parts and accessories is available through the KAVAN dealers.

In the unfortunate event of a crash or heavy landing, no matter how minor or major, you must lower the throttle stick to its lowest positions as quickly as possible to prevent damage to the electronic speed controller in the control unit.
Failure to lower the throttle stick and trim to the lowest possible positions in the event of a crash could result in damage to the ESC, which may require replacement of the ESC.
Note: Crash damage is not covered under warranty.

BUILDING SEQUENCE

Guarantee

The KAVAN Europe s.r.o. products are covered by a guarantee which fulfils the currently valid legal requirements in your country. If you wish to make a claim under guarantee, please contact the retailer from whom you first purchased the equipment. The guarantee does not cover faults which were caused in the following ways: crashes, improper use, incorrect connection, reversed polarity, maintenance work carried out late, incorrectly or not at all, or by unauthorised personnel, use of other than genuine KAVAN Europe s.r.o. accessories, modifications or repairs which were not carried out by KAVAN Europe s.r.o. or an authorised KAVAN Europe s.r.o., accidental or deliberate damage, defects caused by normal wear and tear, operation outside the Specification, or in conjunction with equipment made by other manufacturers. Please be sure to read the appropriate information sheets in the product documentation!

KAVAN Europe s.r.o. | +420 466 260 133 | info@kavanrc.com
Doubravice 110 | 533 53 Pardubice | Czech Republic
Made in China

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