JAMES J1 Superlux Autocycle Motorcycle Instructions
- June 12, 2024
- JAMES
Table of Contents
J1 Superlux Autocycle Motorcycle
Instruction manual
Controls
LIGHTING SET
The head and tail lamps are fitted with single pole, single contact bulbs, and
it is essential that both lamp bodies make metal to meta! contact with the
cycle frame to ensure a good EARTH for the lighting circuit.
The correct bulbs are listed in the DATA above, and the dry battery fitted in
the head lamp is the EVER-READY No. 1289, or one of similar size and
capacity.
SPECIFICATION
Fitted with the Mark 2.F. Engine, has built in unit with a countershaft clutch
the drive from engine crankshaft being by an endless rosier type chain running
in an oil bath case.
A deeply finned cast iron cylinder with one exhaust and two transfer ports of
unique design is used, the carburetter being mounted on a stub at the rear.
Secured to the cylinder by four bolts is an aluminium alloy head in which is.
fitted a 14 mm. sparking plug (Lodge H 14). The aluminium fiat topped
piston carries a floating gudgeon pin located endways by circlips. The ” big
cr.d ” bearing consists of two rows of steel rollers running on a crankpin
fitted in double crankwebs carried by a large ball journal bearing on each
side.
Power is taken through a two plate cork insert clutch, control being by Bowden
cable and lever fitted on handlebar.
Final drive to rear wheel is by a roller chain. A Villiers Junior pattern
carburetter is fitted at the rear of cylinder, control being by a single
lever. A strangler for easy starting, and within the reach of the rider, is
provided, and a gauze type air filter prevents the entry of dirt and water.
A decompressor to assist in starting the engine is fitted in the cylinder
head, control being by Bowden cable and lever fitted on the handlebar.
The ignition and lighting current is provided by the Villiers flywheel
magneto. a special model giving increased output having been developed. The
headlamp now carries a 6 volt 12 watt bulb–
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE -JAMES” SUPERLUX
AUTOCYCLE FITTED WITH VILLIERS MARK 2.F. UNIT **BEFORE USE
CHAI NCASE. Remove the chaincase oil filler and oil level plugs.
see Fig. I. and with the cycle off the stand, pour in recommended Oil (see
page 38) until it runs out at the level plug hole. Refit plugs securely.
Examine every 500 miles and top up if necessary.
ENGINE LUBRICATION AND FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM
FUEL TANK.** Capacity 14 gallons approximately. Fill up tank with Fetial”
mixture made by mixing thoroughly half a pint rccommeride . Oil (see page 38)
with one gallon of Petrol, or four measures of Oil to one gallon of Petrot
(measure incorporated in filler cap). On no account must the oil be put into
the tank before mixing, and it is advisable to pour the mixture through a fine
mesh gauze when putting into tank.
If these instructions are followed, lubrication of all parts of the engine is
automatic and efficient
STARTING THE ENGINE
Where the owner has had no previous experience of driving it is advisable to
become accustomed to the use of the various controls and, therefore, before
attempting to start the engine, the cycle should be put on its stand, the rear
wheel being off the ground.
The carburetter control lever is moved by the right hand and opens inwards to
increase the speed of the engine.
The decompressor or compression release valve, as it is sometimes called, is
controlled by a small lever usually fixed on the underside of the left
handlebar and immediately in front of the clutch control lever.
The function of the decompressor is to release the pressure in the cylinder
head so making it possible to rotate the engine by means of the pedalling gear
when starting by this method.
The fuel tap can now be turned to the ON position, and the strangler closed by
lifting the lever at rear of carburetter. Open the carburetter control lever
about one third its total movement, and flood the float chamber by depressing
tickler. Rotate engine by pedalling whilst sitting on the saddle, and the
engine should start when the decompressor lever is released. As the engine
warms up after running for half a minute or so. the strangler can be gradually
moved to the fully open position. In very cold weather it may not be possible
to do this immediately, in which case leave strangler partly closed until
engine is warmed up. if opened up too quickly spitting back through
carburetter will occur. When the engine is warm from previous running, it
should not be necessary to either flood the carburetter or use strangler when
restarting.
Having started the engine by the pedals. the machine still. being on the
stand. withdraw clutch by pulling up the clutch control lever.
The lever is held in the ” OUT position by a spririg loaded trigger. The
machine can now be pushed off the stand, the rider still being astride the
saddle, and a get away can be made by gently letting in the clutch at the same
time opening the throttle to take the load.
An alternative method of starting is by pushing the machine. Flood the
carburetter. open the throttle and depress the compression release valve as
before, wheel the machine forward a couple of yards and release the valve
control lever, and then as the engine fires, pull up the clutch control lever.
With the clutch disengaged and the engine running, the rider can then mount
the machine and move off by clutch and carburetter control.
STOPPING THE ENGINE
The engine is stopped by moving the control lever to the closed position, and just before coming to rest the release valve should be used to prevent the engine jerking over compression.
FAILURE TO START
FAILURE TO START. If the engine will not start after a reasonable number of
attempts, ascertain if this is due to lack of compression, no fuel or faulty
ignition. COMPRESSION should be felt whilst rotating the engine by the
pedalling gear, with the throttle partly open.
FUEL SUPPLY. Depress tickler at side of carburetter body. If fuel is reaching
float chamber, it will spurt from vent hole in tickler cap.
FAULTY IGNITION. Unscrew spark plug from cylinder head and with the igintion
cable attached place on a flat metal part of engine. When the engine is
rotated a spark should be visible at the points. If no spark, detach cable and
hold end j from cylinder whilst rotating engine.
If these preliminary tests prove negative a more detailed examination wilt
have to be made, and reference should be made to ” Tracing Engine Troubles ”
on pages 14-15.
RUNNING IN
For the first 500 miles the engine must not be over-driven, and during this
period the throttle should not be fully opened. The engine must not be allowed
to race, or run at a high speed under a :ght load. Do not exceed 20 m.p.h.
during the running-in period, and after covering about 500 miles it will very
likely be necessary to weaken off the mixture by lowering slightly the taper
needle in carburetter. How to do this is explained in the section dealing
with the carburetter.
CHAIN LUBRICATION
The primary chain runs in an oil bath case. See page 4 chaincase. The rear
chain is not automatically lubricated, and should be removed occasionally for
lubrication ; a graphited oil is recommended.
PERIODICAL ATTENTIONS
WEEKLY TYRES. Check pressures frequently, and keep inflated to 17
pounds for the front and 32 pounds for the rear. When using the machine on wet
or greasy roads, it is better to apply BOTH brakes together, because sudden or
harsh application of either brake only, under such conditions, may result in a
skid.
SPARKING PLUG. Clean once a week.
MONTHLY
Clean carburetter pipe and filter.
Check rear chain for adjustment. Normal slack to at tightest place.
EVERY 1,000 MILES
BRAKE CAMS. Lubricate with oil can. An excessive quantity of oil should
not be used. otherwise this may get through to the brake linings.
FORKS. Check adjustment of fork links and spindles. To adjust the fork
shafts, release the nuts at each end. and turn shaft by the square end anti-
clockwise to take out play caused by wear : afterwards tighten locknuts
securely. A knurled washer is placed on each fork shaft, and it should just be
possible to revolve this when the adjustment is correct.
EVERY 5,000 MILES (or more frequently under extremely wet or muddy
conditions)
HUBS. The hubs are packed with grease during assembly, to lubricate the
bearings and prevent the entry of mud and water. A grease nipple on the
hub is provided for the periodical injection of fresh grease. The quantity
injected must not be excessive—one or two shots of the grease gun will be
sufficient—or there will be a tendency for the surplus to work into the brake
drum and so cause inefficiency.
It is advisable, in order to enjoy trouble-free riding, that the engine and
machine should have periodical attention, and the following hints will help to
keep the engine in good running order :-
Every 500 miles inspect level of oil in clutchcase by removing level screw.
(See Fig. 1) . Top up if necessary with grade of oil previously
recommended.
Examine the contact breaker points after the first 500 miles have been
completed as the points may require slight adjustment after initial bedding
in. The correct gap when points are fully open is .015′. They should also be
kept free from oil.
Every 2.000 miles remove cylinder head and scrape cut carbon. The edges of the
exhaust port in the cylinder can be cleaned when the piston is at the bottom
of the stroke. Clean piston top.
It should not be necesasry to remove barrel and piston every 2,000 miles,
every 4,000 miles should be sufficient.
Every 2,000 miles remove and clean silencer, exhaust pipe, and carburetter air
filter.
Occasionally check clutch control cable adjustment. There should be a very
;mall amount of slack in the clutch cable when clutch is engaged. Adjust
clutch cable by means of adjustment screw on clutch bridge casting (see Fig.
I). Screw adjuster in until there is just a trace of slack in the cable ; this
is essential, otherwise the clutch may be slightly disengaged and cause
slipping. Tighten iocknut after adjustment.
Periodically examine joints, cylinder head. cylinder base, crankcase and
clutch-case for gas or oil leaks, and tighten if necessary. Examine all
visible nuts, bolts and screws for looseness.
Check tyre pressure weekly and keep inflated at 17 pounds front, 32 pounds
rear.
Clean plug weekly.
Clean petrol pipe and filter monthly. Check rear chain adjustment monthly.
GENERAL ATTENTION TO MAINTAIN
ENGINE EFFICIENCY
INSPECT ENGINE MOUNTING, AND TIGHTEN IF NECESSARY
- Engine frame bolts (3).
- Crank case bolts.
ENGINE LUBRICATION AND FUEL SYSTEM ENGINE ” PETROIL ” LUBRICATING AND FUEL SYSTEM
-
Check quantity of fuel in tank. Do not forget that the fuel also serves the purpose of lubricating all internal parts of the engine, and always remember to replenish the fuel tank with the correct mixture of oil and petrol. which should be mixed before putting it into the tank if possible. See page 5.
-
Security of tank fixing bolts (2).
-
Leaks at taps and unions. Do not over-tighten where fibre washers are Tighten petrol tap. If petrol tap is loose, slacken petrol
pipe before tightening. Check banio union at carburetter end of pipe. Check nut on base of float chamber. -
Throttle cable frayed or sharp bends in cable run. Alter position of dips if necessary.
STEERING, BRAKES, WHEELS AND TYRES EXAMINE CONTROLS
- Examine handlebar control levers for tightness on handlebar, freedom of operation of clutch, brake.
- Put a spot of oil on the end of each control wire and on the pivot pins for clutch and brake.
TO ADJUST CHAIN
Release nut holding Brake Anchor Bolt, slack off spindle nuts (3), both
sides. To tighten chain, draw wheel back by means of nut 5. an equal turn on
each to keep the wheel central. After the adjustment has been carried out
tighten nuts (3), check position of the rim. This should be central, in the
chain stays. Do not forget to secure Rear Brake anchorage.
TO ADJUST TENSION AND PEDAL CHAIN
- Release the 2 cotters by unscrewing the 24s nuts found on the underside of the bottom bracket.
- Turn the eccentric bracket, by means of the flats milled on the left hand side, clockwise to tighten the tension on the chain and vice versa.
- Re-t ghten nuts when the correct tension is obtained.
SECURITY
- Examine each control able inner wire for fraying.
- Examine each control outer cable and see that there are no sharp bends, and cables are not kinked or chafed.
- Wheel mounting nuts (2 on front axle, 2 on rear axle).
LUBRICATION
Before applying gun, carefully clean exterior of nipples. Wipe off all
excess lubricant when finished.
- Wheel hubs (1 nipple on each hub). Periodical attention only. See page 7.
- Grease fork shafts (1: nipples).
- Moving parts—Oilcan- Brake levers, front and rear.
Rear brake joint.
Rear stand.
Brake cams. Periodical attention only. See page 7.
WEAR AND ADJUSTMENT
- Test for up and down play in steering head.
(a) Grip the handlebar head clip lug where it meets the main frame head lug with the fingers of the left hand, and at the same time hold the forward end of the front mudguard with the right hand and lift. Movement of the head clip lug felt with the left hand indicates slackness.
(b) Adjust if necessary by releasing head clip nut, and screwing down the large head locknut. Do not use excessive force. Finally, tighten head clip pin locknut.
TO ADJUST FRONT WHEEL
First slacken nuts A, then nut 5 and the adjustment is quite easily made
by the adjusting cone C. When the correct adjustment is obtained no side play
should be felt, but the wheel should revolve quite freely.
Brake adjustment. Tighten by screwing knurled adjuster clockwise on brake
plate.
SILENCER
The silencer fitted on this machine provides for a clear passage of the
exhaust gas and is designed to give the utmost power output from the engine ;
it should not be interferred with in any way with the exception of an
occasional dean, say every 2.000 miles. To do this first undo the screw which
holds the collar, then detach the complete silencer from the frame of the
machine. Afterwards undo the three small screws at the tail pipe end of the
silencer, pull apart and take off the old glass wool and replace with either
glass wool or if this is not available, wire wool, which should be wrapped
round the interior of the silencer so that no holes arc exposed. Replace this
by pushing it back into the body making sure that the screw holes in the end
cap correspond with the Email holes in the body of the silencer. Re-insert the
three small screws and assemble on to the machine.
CARBURETTER
The Villiers Junior Carburetter is used with the Mark 2.F. Engine, and it should not be necessary to alter the setting obtained by the maker (except for needle adjustment). after road testing the machine.
OPERATION OF CARBURETTER
The function of the carburetter is to supply a mixture of petrol and air in
correct proportion under all conditions. In the Villiers carburetter the float
chamber surrounds the jet and centrepiece, and in the chamber an annular float
rises as the fuel enters the chamber until the correct level is obtained, then
the forked lever which rests on the top of the float lifts the fuel needle
which has a conical end and shuts off the fuel supply by closing the hole in
the bush fitted in carburetter body.
Fuel enters the centrepeice through a hole in the side and passes through the
calibrated jet fitted in the bottom of centrepiece.
The throttle operated by the able is fitted with a taper needle which extends
below the throttle and into the centrepiece. When the throttle slide closes
the air supply the largest diameter of the needle nearly closes the fuel
outlet, but when the slide is lifted admitting more air, the smaller diameter
of the needle now in the centrepiece allows more fuel to pass. A suitable
combination jet size, needle position and taper will give a correct mixture
strength on all throttle openings.
The fuel level is maintained by a float and needle valve, and under no
circumstances should any alteration be made either to the above or to the
float lever.
The amount of fuel supplied to the engine is controlled by one jet which is
fixed in the bottom of the centrepiece, and by the taper needle which is
carried in the throttle and operates in the top end of the centrepiece.
The jet is not detachable from the centrepiece and is not supplied separately.
The carburetter is automatic in action and gives a correct mixture over the
whole range of throttle openings. the only available adjustment being the
position of the taper needle in the throttle (which controls the size of the
jet orifice), and is necessary to suit individual engines.
The needle controls the mixture strength from tickover to approximately two-
thirds throttle, the jet controls the remainder.
The position of the taper needle in the throttle is determined during testing
at the works, but should it be necessary to alter the setting this is done by
the needle adjusting screw situated in the centre and top of throttle. Screw
in to weaken mixture, (i.e. lower needle), the screw should not be loose in
the throttle slide as it is likely to move and alter the setting. It is split
to make it grip the hole. should the screw be loose the split portion should
be gently prised apart before fitting.
NOTE.-The taper needle spring should be fitted with the small coil under
the head of needle.
TO DISMANTLE CARBURETTER
TO REMOVE THROTTLE FROM BODY
Open throttle to full open, undo top ring, throttle can now be withdrawn. Take
care not to damage or bend the taper needle. Return throttle to fully closed
position, the guide peg attached to top disc will then be exposed and, if
necessary, the control cable can be detached by compressing throttle spring,
the inner cable then being lifted out through the slot.
TO REMOVE CENTREPIECE AND FUEL NEEDLE
Unscrew the bottom nut underneath the float chamber cup. Next remove the fibre
washer, the cup with float inside. and if loose, the fibre washer between cup
and carburetter body. Then remove the small centrepiece locking screw situated
below and to the rear of the banjo petrol pipe union, the centrepiece with
fibre washer under head can now be pushed up through the throttle bore.
When the centrepiece is removed the fuel needle lever can swing round and will
thus allow the fuel needle to drop out of its seating : the needle should
therefore be removed at the same time as the centrepiece and kept in a safe
place until required for reassembly. No attempt should be made to remove the
fuel needle lever from the carburetter body.
The flywheel should not be removed unless absolutely necessary. and then it is advisable to use a Villiers hammectight spanner for the centre nut. The nut is imprisoned in the flywheel and acts as an extractor when curried anti- clockwise looking at the magneto. Before access can be made to the nut, of course, the flywheel cover has first to be removed by releasing the three screws holding cover to flywheel.