Millenium Focus Drum Set User Manual
- June 5, 2024
- Millenium
Table of Contents
Focus Drum Set
User Manual
Focus Drum Set
Drum Set
Safety instructions
DANGER!
Danger for children
Ensure that plastic bags, packaging, etc. are disposed of properly and are not
within reach of babies and young children. Choking hazard! Ensure that
children do not detach any mall parts (e.g. knobs or the like) from the unit.
They could swallow the pieces and choke! Never let children unattended use
electrical devices.
Note
This document is a general guide showing typical steps for setting up a
drum set. Depending on the model, there can be variations in the type and
number of components.
Unpacking
Assi gning
The following guide makes it easy for you to completely assemble your drum
set, to tune it and to set it up properly. The complete drum set is supplied
in two cardboard boxes. It is supplied dismantled in its individual parts. We
recommend that you first sort the individual parts that belong together as
described below.
Snare drum
The snare drum is delivered fully assembled. The drum heads are already
fitted.
Bass drum
Due to the size of the bass drum, it is always supplied dismantled. The bass drum includes the following parts:
- 1 drum shell
- 2 hoops
- 2 bass drum heads (1 × resonant and 1 × batter head)
- 16 clamping screws (square-head) with one washer each
- 16 claw hooks
- 2 bass drum spurs
- 1 damper pillow v
2 hanging toms
The hanging toms are delivered fully assembled. The drum heads are already fitted.
Floor tom
The floor tom includes the following parts:
- 1 drum shell
- 2 hoops
- 2 heads
- 12 tension rods with one washer each
- 3 spurs
Hardware package
The hardware package includes the following parts: 1 bass drum pedal
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1 hi-hat stand| 1 snare stand
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1 straight cymbal stand| 2 tom holders
Accesso r ies
The accessories include the following parts:
- 1 tuning key
- 1 pair of drumsticks
- 3 sound control rings for tom/snare
Cymbals
Depending on the scope of supply, a set of cymbals is included:
- 1 crash / ride cymbal (16 inch)
- 1 hi-hat cymbal (14 inch)
Setting up the bass drum
Let’s start with the bass drum.
Position the bass drum shell such that the screws of the tom holder point
downwards.
Now lay the black resonator head on the shell and put a hoop over it. Both the
hoops are identical so it doesn’t matter which one you put on first. Align the
black resonator head such that the “Millenium” writing is parallel to the tom
holder. The head must be lying evenly on the edge of the shell on all sides.
The next thing we need is the tension rods.
Proceed as follows:
Put the washer on the screw and then the claw hook. We need 8 square-head
screws per side.
Hand-tighten all eight screws. When doing this, tighten the screws in the
diagonally opposite sequence. You only need to tighten the screws slightly, we
will be tuning the drums later on.
Mounting the spurs
Now, you can screw the bass drum’s spurs into the holder provided at the side.
Keep the spurs folded in at the side at first; when we have assembled all the
shells, we can start setting up the drum set. First you must mount all the
heads and then tune them.
Now turn the shell by 180° to mount the transparent batter head.
If you want to dampen the bass drum, now would be just the right time to put
the damper pillow in the shell to do this.
Mounting the beater head
The transparent batter head is used on the beater side. When mounting it, we
pro‐ ceed in just the same way as with the resonator head. Put the head on
first and lay the hoop n t, put the washers and claw hooks on the tension
rods and screw them on. Do not tighten them too much; only enough for the
hoops not to be shifted. We’ll do everything lse when we tune the drums. So
that’s the bass drum finished; now we’ll do the toms.
Assembling the floor tom
The principle of assembling the floor tom is basically the same as with the bass drum. The shell is smaller which means that they don’t have as many tension rods. The hoops re made of steel. This means that they don’t need any claw hooks; rather, you screw them on directly. The tension rods aren’t as long as with the bass drum either, since the hoops are not as wide.
To make the hoops easier to transport, they are fixed on one side of the shell with a couple of screws. To mount the heads, you must first completely remove the hoops.
Now lay head on the shell and put a hoop over it. Both the hoops and heads are
exactly the same so it doesn’t matter which one you use where. If you look
from the top, you can see whether the head and the hoop are really contacting
the middle of the drum shell.
You now screw in six tension rods per side. With the tension rods, you must
always ensure that the each washer is inserted.
You hand-tighten the tension rods in the diagonally opposite sequence. Like
the bass rum, we will be tuning later on.
You can now attach the legs. When doing this, turn the feet outwards to ensure
as much stability as possible. Fix the two legs at the back in about the
middle. First lightly fix the eg facing the drummer by hand and then fasten it
properly when it is standing. Hold the shell with one hand while screwing it
with the other one.
Assembling the bass drum pedal
Let’s concentrate on the hardware first. You have to assemble the bass drum
pedal first. Budget bass drum pedals often don’t have a continuous floor
plate. To guar‐ antee that the elements lie in a stable way, they are fitted
with a connecting rod.
In fact, there are two round iron rods that are spring-urged to press
outwards. You can press them together with one hand and push them into the
cutouts on the frame of the bass drum pedal. If the bass drum pedal has a
floor plate, you don’t need to carry out this step.
Now you screw the beater into the holder.
! NOTICE
Do not stick the bottom end of the shaft in too far; otherwise, it could
damage the bass drum head.
You can make all the other settings later on. A separate user guide is
enclosed for the bass drum pedal.|
Assembling the hi-hat
Pull the stand’s three legs far enough apart until there is optimum
stability between the base point of the stand and the legs. A wing nut ensures
that the legs do not move out of position.
As with the bass drum pedal, the hi-hat’s pedal is stabilized with a rod. To do this, reach under the pedal, and press the rod fork together a bit until the ends lock home in the holes.
The next thing to do is to tightly screw home the pull rod in the stand’s
thread. Put the centre tube over the pull rod and screw it tight.
We will adjust the height exactly later on once we have positioned the hi-hat
stand in the correct location and attached the cymbals.
Assembling the cymbal stands
The legs of the straight cymbal stand are folded out or extended until it
stands secure. After this, you fix the legs using the wing nut.
Push the center and spacer tubes onto the bottom case and fix them with the
wingscrews. We will make the final settings later on. The cymbal holder is
directly on the retractable spacer tube. You attach the cymbals in exactly the
same way as with the thehi-hat-stand after positioning.
Assembling the snare drum stand
In the case of the snare drum stand too, you fold out the three legs and fix them with wing nut. Now put the top part with the arms into the lower section and screw it tight.
Screwing down the union nut opens the support arms. The union nut on the joint allows you to set the angle of the drum. Here too, we will make all the necessary settings later on when positioning the set.
Tuning the shells
All the drum shells are mounted. All the hardware is assembled.
Basics
Snare drum The snare drum is supplied completely assembled. Apart from a
couple of slight cor‐ rections, the pitch should be OK. To check, tap a few
times near the tension rods. All the tones should sound the same. Proceed in
the same way with the resonator head. When checking the pitch, the snare
should not be touching. To do this, completely release the snare wires and put
a drum stick between the edge of the hoop and the snare wires (the stick
should not touch the drum head). After tuning, you must tension the snare
again. By the way, the snare tension has a significant effect on the vibration
of the resonator head and the typical snare sound. You just have to keep
trying until you find a sound you like.
Snare drum
The snare drum is supplied completely assembled. Apart from a couple of
slight cor‐ rections, the pitch should be OK. To check, tap a few times near
the tension rods. All the tones should sound the same.
Proceed in the same way with the resonator head. When checking the pitch, the
snare should not be touching. To do this, completely release the snare wires
and put a drum stick between the edge of the hoop and the snare wires (the
stick should not touch the drum head).
After tuning, you must tension the snare again. By the way, the snare tension
has a significant effect on the vibration of the resonator head and the
typical snare sound. You just ave to keep trying until you find a sound you
like.
Tighten all the screws evenly finger-tight. Start with the beater side. First
press fairly hard with both hands on the head to press it on to the shell
evenly. When you do this, the head may make noises but that’s normal.
Now tighten the tension rods in the diagonally opposite sequence by one turn
until the head is tuned to a pitch. A good way to check is by the reflection
on the head – you shouldn’t be able to see any wrinkles.
Bass drum
Hanging toms and floor tom
Tighten all the screws evenly finger-tight. Start with the beater side.
First press fairly hard with both hands on the head to press it on to the
shell evenly. When you do this, the head may make noises but that’s normal.
Now tighten the tension rods in the diagonally opposite sequence by one turn
until the head is tuned to a pitch. A good way to check is by the reflection
on the head – you shouldn’t be able to see any wrinkles.
The bass drum head is often not tensioned as much as you would think.
Tune the resonator side of the bass drum in exactly the same way.
You proceed in the same way with the hanging toms and the floor tom. Seat the
head slowly and evenly. At first, press the head down with your hands to seat
it well. Tap your finger along the rim to check: you should hear a ringing
tone. You shouldn’t be able to see any more wrinkles.
The sounds of the three toms should also harmonize. The sounds should
harmonise while you’re tuning the heads. Don’t be afraid to play the other two
toms to ensure that the tones harmonize. Don’t tune the resonator heads until
you have tuned the heads on all three toms. You tune the batter and resonator
heads to the same pitch. This considerably amplifies the drums’ sounds. As you
come closer to the pitch of the beater head when tuning the resonator head,
the drum shell gets louder and clearer with more punch.
Hit the beater head and the resonator head to compare. You will then quickly
realise whether the same pitch is produced on both heads. If you tension the
head too much, you lose the clear sound of the shell. Then, the easiest thing
to do is to evenly loosen all the tension rods (count the turns) and start
from scratch. It is not possible to tune drum heads backward little by little.
Setting up the drum set
For optimum playing, we don’t just need tuned drums; rather, it is also
necessary to position all the drums in an optimum way. We now make all the
settings that we neglected before. The set-up that is described here is
intended for right-handers. The set-up for left-handers is a mirror image of
this one. A non-slip surface like a carpet or similar guarantees stability.
Drum stool
Let’s start with the drum stool. Set the height such that your thighs are
almost horizontal. This allows you to sit comfortably and not tire when using
the bass drum and hi-hat pedals.
Snare drum stand
His next job is to take the snare drum stand and fix the snare drum on it. To
do this, open the arms far enough to be able to reach over the bottom hoop.
After this, tighten the union nut such that the snare drum cannot fall off the
stand. It is important to ensure that none of the three arms affects the snare
or the throw-off lever. The throw-off lever should face the drummer so that it
is easy to operate.
Now set the height of the snare drum such that the hand holding the drumstick
can touch the head without hitting your thigh. A slight lean towards the
drummer makes drumming – and rimshots in particular – easier.
Completing the bass drum
Now that we’ve tuned our bass drum, it’s time to mount the bass drum pedal and the tom racks on the bass drum shell. Let’s start with the bass drum legs. Fold the bass drum spurs out such that they point forwards at an angle of about 45°. This guarantees a safe and stable position and protects the bass drum from being pushed for‐ ward when we operate the pedal. If you lay carpet under the drum set (which is highly recommended), you can screw in the rubber feet until you can see the spikes. These spikes stick into the carpet and prevent our drum set from “wandering off”. Lets consider the length of the spurs.
We adjust the length of the spurs such that there is a gap of the width of one finger between the floor and the lower edge of the hoops; when doing this, the drum shell should ot lean forwards or toward the player. To retain the settings of the spurs, the bass drum spurs for height adjustment are fitted with memory clips (that remain in position at dismantling too.) You must use the drum key to fix the screws.
Now you can push the assembled bass drum pedal onto the clamping ring and fix it with the claw. Use some gaffa tape to protect the hoop from scratching.
Now, there are only the tom racks. There are different designs. The tom holder – that’s the clamp for the tom arms on the bass drum – is intended for one or two tom arms. This means that if only one tube fits in, there is an adapter for both tom arms. Our tom holder takes both tom arms directly.
Here too, there are memory chips that have a cutout. Here, the clip not only “remembers” how far you put the tube in but also at what angle
Bass drum and hi-
hat
The snare drum is now between the drummer’s knees and we will add the bass
drum and hi-hat stands. The bass drum and hi-hat pedals are placed where the
drummer’s feet rest naturally when they are in a normal upright seated
position. In this connection, the knees must not touch the snare drum.
The bass drum with pedal comes on the right-hand side and the hi-hat stands on
the left-hand one. The two pedals form a V shape pointing towards the stool.
Positioning these 3 elements, snare, bass drum, and hi-hat is very important.
The rest of the set results almost automatically from this.
The lower hoop of the snare drum should be just above the bass drum’s hoop.
The hanging toms are next. Put each tom shell in the bracket arm and screw it
tight. Make sure that the bracket arm hits the tom shell at right angles. With
the junior drum set, the tom shells are drilled through and the bracket arms
are pushed into the shell.
Mount the smaller tom to the left of the drummer and the larger one to their
right. As with the snare drum, the heights and angles of the toms depend on
the height at which the rummer is seated. In this connection, it should be
possible to play the drumstick as parallel as possible to the head.
With small people, the tom should be angled more than with larger ones. Mount both toms at the same height and the same angle. They should not sit on the bass drum or touch one another.
Now there’s just the floor tom. Set up the floor tom next to your right thigh. When doing this, ensure that there is enough space between the snare drum and the floor tom. Your leg must have enough space to the left and the right.
The height of the floor tom depends on the height of the snare drum. Both
hoops should be at the same height. The floor on tom’s head is not angled;
rather, it is horizontal. Viewed from above, the snare drum, the hanging toms,
and the floor tom are aligned in a V shape.
Drum sets of the 22 series also include some transparent plastic rings – these
are damper rings. They are only placed on the toms and the snare drum (they
fit exactly). These unprepossessing rings have a remarkable effect – just try
them out.
Attaching the cymbals
Our drum set is starting to take shape. We’ve already found the position of
the hi-hat stand. What’s missing now is attaching the hi-hat cymbals and
adjusting the height.
Attaching the hi-hat cymbals
First place a metal washer and the felt disk on the hi-hat stand. Then the
bottom cymbal (labeled “bottom”). Lie it freely onto the stand’s felt disk.
We have to make some preparations for the top cymbal (labeled “top”). The top
cymbal is fitted with a hi-hat clutch. To do this, turn the holder upside down
and lay it in the palm of your hand. Now put on a felt disk, the top cymbal
(with the dome downwards), another felt disk, a washer, and the screw
connection.
Now push the top cymbal over the pull rod such that it lies loosely on the
bottom hat.
Now adjust the height of the stand such that the bottom of the hi-hat cymbal is about the width of your hand above the snare drum’s hoop.
Now tread the hi-hat pedal halfway down and tighten the wing screw of the hi- hat clutch.
Attaching the ride and crash cymbals
The ride cymbal is placed on the right between the floor tom and the right- hand hanging tom. As with the hi-hat, you screw the cymbal between two felt washers. Now position the cymbal such that you can comfortably reach it with your drumstick it doesn’t hit the shell.
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Now all the parts are in place and you can start to play. Have lots of fun with your new drum set.
Protecting the environment
Disposal of the packaging material
For the transport and protective packaging, environmentally friendly materials
have been chosen that can be supplied to normal recycling.
Ensure that plastic bags, packaging, etc. are properly disposed of. Do not
just dispose of these materials with your normal household waste, but make
sure that they are collected for recycling. Please follow the notes and
markings on the packaging.
Thomann GmbH
Hans-Thomann-Straße 1
96138 Burgebrach
Germany
Telephone: +49 (0) 9546 9223-0
Internet: www.thomann.de
17.06.2022, ID: 495988, .