JBL GTO939 3 Way Coaxial Audio Speakers Installation Guide
- June 12, 2024
- JBL
Table of Contents
JBL GTO939 3-Way Coaxial Audio Speakers
In This Guide
Installing car speakers often requires the removal of door, dash, or rear window shelf interior panels to access the speaker mounting points. Component speakers require the additional steps of installing a separate tweeter and passive crossover network. Follow these easy installation steps to ensure the proper installation of your speakers.
Important
This content has not been verified by Amazon for accuracy, completeness, or
otherwise. Consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual and the product’s manual
before attempting an installation. Contact the product’s manufacturer or
consult a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional installer if you are
uncertain about how to properly install your product. Amazon attempts to be as
accurate as possible; however, because of the number of vehicles and products
available to consumers, it is not possible to provide detailed installation
steps that apply universally to all vehicles and products. Amazon does not
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Tools and Supplies Needed
Before You Begin
Note
Accessories, such as oval-to-round speaker mounting adapters and speaker
wire, may be required to complete the installa-tion and are available for
purchase on Amazon.com
Upgrading Speakers
Coaxial or Component Speakers
Coaxial speakers combine a cone speaker for midrange frequencies with a
tweeter for high fre-quencies in a single speaker chassis. Many coaxial
speakers use high-quality materials and fit directly into factory locations,
simplifying installation and delivering upgraded sound quality.
Component speakers have separate midrange and tweeter drivers providing the flexibility to mount tweeters at the listener’s ear level. Components also have a passive crossover network that routes appropriate frequencies to the midrange and tweeter respectively, which improves the power han-dling of the speakers and optimizes sound production. Consider component speakers when you are in pursuit of the highest caliber music experience.
Match RMS Power Ratings
RMS power ratings represent a realistic expectation of a product’s
performance. To ensure quality sound production, match the amplifier’s RMS
power output with the speaker’s RMS power handling. Overpower-ing speakers can
overheat the speaker’s voice coils causing premature failure. Under powering
speakers may cause sound distortion. As an example, if the speakers are rated
at 50 watts RMS, choose an amplifier that provides between 40 to 60 watts RMS
to each speaker. A little more power (up to +25%) over the speaker’s RMS power
handling is okay, as it adds ‘headroom,’ or reserve power, to the audio system
when the music gets complex and/or loud.
Sound Deadening Treatment
Consider installing sound damping and vibration control materials in the
doors, trunk, rear shelf, and floor of the car. These adhesive sheet materials
install easily on metal and plastic to reduce the road noise and vibration
from interior panels to create a quieter, more enjoyable listening
environment. By adding mass (weight) to the panel, any vibrations are
suppressed, transferring energy from the speak-ers into great sound rather
than annoying buzzing, vibrating, and rattling of interior panels.
Speaker Locations
If you are unsure of the factory speaker sizes and locations in your vehicle, visit Scosche or Metra to get fitment information.
Dash Locations
Speakers located in the dash may require removal of the protective speaker
grilles to access the speaker. This may be as easy as direct removal of the
grille, but may require additional dash top panel disassembly. Short
screwdrivers or socket wrenches are usually required to remove the speaker
given the limited space between the dash and windshield. To avoid cracking or
scratching the glass, place a towel on the inside of the windshield in the
areas near the speakers.
Door Locations
Speakers located indoors typically require the removal of door panel(s),
unless the protec-tive speaker grill is independently removable and provides
direct speaker access. If the door panel must be removed, use non-scratching
plastic panel removal tools to carefully pry the outer edges of the panel and
gently release the pressure fit clips. Most door pan-els have screws placed
around door pulls, window cranks or armrests. Remove these screws, and then
disconnect any electrical wiring plugs behind the panel before removing the
panel. With the panel removed, this is an excellent opportunity to install
sound-deadening materials.
Other Locations
There may be additional speakers behind side panels in trucks and SUVs, in
rear strut tower panels in hatchbacks, or in the floor (under seats) in luxury
cars. It may be necessary to remove seats and large interior pan-els to access
the speaker mounting points. Use care and take your time when disassem-bling
any of these speaker locations.
When to Consider a Professional
Before attempting speaker installation, assess your comfort level with the
required disassembly of your vehicle. Consider a professional installer if you
are not comfortable disassembling vehicle interior panels.
Component Speaker Considerations
In addition to the midrange driver, component speakers have tweeters and
passive crossovers that need to be installed. These may be new components to
your audio system without a factory location, so the installation location
choice is important. Review the speaker manufacturer’s installation
instructions for specific details.
Tweeter Locations
Tweeters should be installed higher up in the vehicle to ‘lift’ the sound off
the floor. Recommended tweeter locations include the top triangle area at the
front edge of the door panel (near the side view mirror), the ‘A-pillar’
windshield trim, or the upper front area of a door panel forward of door pull
hardware. Many component sets offer more than one mounting hardware option
including surface mount, flush mount, or mounting brackets for installation
behind an existing speaker grill. Review the speaker manufacturer’s
installation instructions to choose the appropriate hardware for the tweeter
installation.
Passive Crossover Locations
The passive crossover is a critical part of the component speaker system.
Avoid installing it near high current power wiring where radiated noise can
enter the crossover com-ponents. Also, avoid wet or moist locations, such as
inside a vehicle door cavity with window and locking mechanisms. Recommended
locations include under seats, in the trunk, or (for door-mounted component
speakers) on the inner door skin outside of the moisture barrier plastic
between the door panel and inner door skin metal or in the kick panel area.
Additional speaker wiring may be needed to connect the amplifier and speakers
to the passive crossover. Verify if extra speaker wiring is included with the
component speaker set.
Using Factory Speaker Wiring
To find factory speaker wire color information for your vehicle visit DIY wiring resources like www.eAutoRepair.com or www.AllDataDIY.com Review the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the component speakers for specific details of wiring connections on the speaker.
Coaxial Speakers
If you are replacing factory speakers with coaxial speakers, use existing
factory wiring.
- After removing the factory speaker, cut the factory speaker plug, leaving 2-3 inches of extra wire for the connector. This is recommended in case you ever want to reinstall the factory speaker.
- Crimp a female .250” push-on terminal to each speaker wire by inserting the bare wire into the terminal, positing the terminal in the appropriate gauge setting in the crimper jaws and squeezing the crimper on the terminal to secure the wire.
- Gently pull each wire to ensure a good crimp connection. The wire should not pull out of the crimp terminal.
- Connect the positive (+) factory speaker wire to the positive (+) terminal of the speaker.
- Connect the negative (-) factory speaker wire to the negative (–) terminal of the speaker.
- Repeat steps 1-5 on the remaining speakers to install in factory locations.
Component Speakers
If you are installing component speakers in a factory location, use existing
factory wiring for the input to the passive crossover. The midrange and
tweeter outputs of the passive crossover will use new speaker wire. Note: you
may need to purchase additional speaker wire separately.
- After removing the factory speaker, cut the factory speaker plug, leaving a 2-3 inches of extra wire for the connector. This is recommended in case you ever want to reinstall the factory speaker.
- Connect the positive (+) factory speaker wire to the positive (+) ‘input’ terminal of the passive crossover.
- Connect the negative (–) factory speaker wire to the negative (–) ‘input’ terminal of the passive crossover.
- Speakers lacking spring-loaded binding post terminals may require crimping female .250” push-on terminals to con-nect the speaker wiring.
- Connect the positive (+) ‘midrange output’ of the passive crossover to the positive (+) terminal of the midrange speaker.
- Connect the negative (-) ‘midrange output’ of the passive crossover to the negative (-) terminal of the midrange speaker.
- Connect the positive (+) ‘tweeter output’ of the passive crossover to the positive (+) terminal of the tweeter. If there are multiple level settings (0dB, -3dB, etc.) choose the 0dB terminal connection.
- Connect the negative (-) ‘tweeter output’ of the passive crossover to the negative (-) terminal of the tweeter.
- Secure the wires with zip ties and the passive crossover with the included mounting hardware.
Using New Speaker Wiring
If you are using new wiring, connect the new speaker wire to the positive (+)
and negative (–) speaker output of the receiver or amplifier, then connect it
to the corresponding positive (+) and negative (–) terminals on the speaker
and (if applicable) passive crossover following the manufacturer’s
installation instructions. Secure all new wires to fac-tory wiring harnesses
using zip ties.
Test and Reassemble
Test the Speakers
Test the new speakers by turning on the audio system and playing dynamic
music. You should notice a definitive sound quality improvement over the
factory speakers. To verify that both left and right speakers are working
properly, use the receiver’s audio controls to change the speaker balance to
left only, then center, then to right only. If low frequencies seem more
evident when balanced only on the left or right channel, the polarity may be
incorrect. If a speaker is connected incorrectly, meaning a positive (+) wire
is connected to a negative (–) terminal, it will create cancellation with
other speakers, causing a deficient low-frequency effect when the balance is
in the center position. To fix this, ensure that you connected the positive
(+) and negative (–) wires to the corresponding speaker terminal.
Reassemble the Vehicle
Once you have tested and verified the performance of the new speakers,
reassemble the interior panels in the reverse order of removal. Pay careful
attention to panel clips and pressure-fit hardware to ensure all clips are
securing the panel from unnecessary vibrations. Verify all wiring is securely
tied down with zip ties and routed away from moving parts or heat sources.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the RMS wattage output?
There is no output. These are speakers, not an amp. Per JBL specs, they'll handle 100w continuous, 300w peak.
Is this a pair of speakers or a single speaker?
Its a pair of speakers. 2 pieces.
Do they fit well in the front doors of a 2005 dodge ram 2500?
Because of the size of the driver magnet, I would not recommend installing it on the front doors. I believe they will interfere with the operation of the windows. The 6.5-inch would be a better option. Unless you plan on using a standoff when you mount them.
Will these work for a 2011 dodge charger se 7 speaker alpine ?
When you remove your factory speaker, it will have an ohm load stamped on the back. If it's the same it's ok. If it's higher you may cause damage to your stereo. If there is no stamp check your manual for recommended ohm speaker.
Will these fit 99 camry?
Yes. Our JBL GTO 939 is a compatible fit with your Toyota 1999 Camry.
Will these fit a 2005 Toyota Tacoma 4 door. And doi need spacers and harness?
Our JBL GTO939 doesn't fit in your 2005 Toyota Tacoma 4 door. You may check out our JBL Club 9632 which fits in the lower front door of your vehicle.
What amp do you recommend for (4) 6x9 Jbls?
The GTO939 can handle 200 watts of RMS power handling. So as long as your amp has a power output of 200 watts per channel or less, these speakers will sound great with any amplifier of your preference.
These speakers are the only thing I need to buy or?
Yes if you are only replacing the original door speakers.
Will these fit in a 2023 toyota Rav4 (non JBL)?
Our JBL GTO939 doesn't fit into your 2023 Toyota RAV4.
Will these fit in a 2014 Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab?
They fit in my 2017 3500 crew perfectly, sound great when you throw some power at them! I don't think the interiors on the RAMs changed from 13-18'.
Will these fit a 2008 jeep patriot?
They should if you have 6X 9 speakers already. I have an 07 Dodge Caliber and didn't have any problems.
What do I need for mounts and connectors for a 2014 Tacoma?
I replaced a pair of 6x9 speakers the only thing I needed was different wire connectors the factory didn't fit.
Do they fit 2010 highlander?
Our JBL GTO939 will not fit in your 2010 Toyota Highlander. We recommend the JBL Club 9632 as these speakers would fit at the front door speakers of your vehicle.
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