catalinbread Knight School Filter DIY Kit Instruction Manual
- August 31, 2024
- catalinbread
Table of Contents
Knight School Filter DIY Kit
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Product Information
Specifications:
- Product Name: DIY Knight School Filter Kit
- Manufacturer: Catalinbread, LLC
- Equipment Required: Soldering iron, ventilation devices, hand
tools
Product Usage Instructions
Soldering Instructions:
-
Choose the appropriate solder type and temperature based on the
type of solder being used. -
Heat the pad around the component with the soldering iron and
feed the solder to the pad to allow it to flow. -
Ensure the pad is covered in solder but not excessively
so.
Assembly Instructions:
-
Install components by height starting with resistors and
diodes, followed by ICs, capacitors, and potentiometers. -
Follow the color coding to identify resistor values for proper
installation. -
Insert components into their indicated positions on the board,
ensuring correct orientation. -
Solder components in place and trim off any excess leads.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Is there a warranty for this product?
A: Please refer to the manufacturer’s warranty policy for
details on product warranties.
Q: Can I customize the components used in this kit?
A: While it is possible to customize components, it is
recommended to use the specified components for optimal
performance.
Q: What should I do if I encounter issues during assembly?
A: If you encounter any difficulties during assembly, refer to
the instructional materials or seek assistance from technical
support.
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DIY
Knight School Filter Kit
HELLO PEDAL BUILDER!
Yes, you, after finishing and executing the contents of these instructions,
you will have earned that title. The information contained herein will let you
know how we can go about accomplishing that goal.
YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING EQUIPMENT:
· A soldering iron (not a “gun,” preferably one with a variable temp) · Solder
(lead-free or the standard stuff, it’s up to you) · Wire cutters (nail
clippers will work in a pinch) · Sockets or a pair of pliers (for tightening
nuts)
· A well-ventilated workspace (don’t breathe solder fumes)
OPTIONAL BUT HELPFUL:
· A “third hand” tool or PCB vise/holder (to hold the board, soldering is
typically a two-handed job) · A “solder sucker” (in case you make mistakes)
AND BEFORE WE GET INTO IT:
Neither I nor Catalinbread, LLC, will be held responsible for any personal
harm, property damage, or any other kind of liability stemming from the
assembly of this device from instructional materials found on this site or
elsewhere. This includes the included componentry as well as the use of tools
specified as necessary for the
assembly of this kit, such as soldering irons, ventilation devices, hand
tools, etc.
SOLDERING: QUICK AND DIRTY
Before we start, I want to say that there are plenty of fine videos on YouTube
that can cover this in great detail. However, in the interest of space, I will
keep it quick.
1. Whatever solder type you are using will dictate the temp at which you
should run your iron. If you’re using leaded (standard) solder, you can keep
it between 600 and 650 degrees. Lead-free
solder requires a slightly higher temperature, between 650 and 700 degrees.
2. Use your iron tip to heat the pad around the part and not the part itself.
Heat the pad with one hand holding the iron and the other feeding the solder
to the pad. With any luck, the solder will flow.
Make sure the pad is completely covered in solder but not bubbled over into a
huge glob. Think concave, not convex.
ASSEMBLY VIDEO
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Generally speaking, when I’m assembling a board, I install components by
height, so that when I flip the board over to solder the components, the board
is relatively flat on my workspace, and
then I don’t have to use a third hand/PCB vise. In many cases, this means that
resistors and diodes are first, any ICs/chips are second, non-electrolytic
capacitors are third, transistors are fourth
(there are none in this build), electrolytic capacitors are fifth, and
potentiometers/hardware are last. Lastly, you can assemble the components in
any order you wish and it has no bearing on the final product. The
instructions below will assume you are
following my preferences.
1. Insert the resistors into their indicated positions, and bend the leads
outward such that they stay in the board when you flip it over to solder. Trim
excess component leads off after soldering. The orientation of the resistors
on the board does not matter. Resistors are measured in Ohms, “K” is shorthand
for “kiloohms.” The values are written on the PCB itself, but unfortunately
resistor values are not normally printed on the part. The color bands
correspond to the value, and you are welcome to look up a decoder chart, but
here’s the quick
and dirty:
2K7: red/violet/red/gold 8K2: grey/red/red/gold 12K: brown/red/orange/gold
10K: brown/black/orange/gold 22K: red/red/orange/gold 100K:
brown/black/yellow/gold 120K: brown/red/yellow/gold 680K:
blue/grey/yellow/gold 2M2: red/red/green/gold 560: green/blue/brown/gold
2. Insert the diode into its indicated position, making note of the stripe on
the part itself, and match it to the picture on the board. Unlike resistors,
the direction of these does matter. Bend the leads out to secure them,
solder them in, then trim off the excess.
3.Insert the IC into its position, with the IC notch/dot aligned according to
the PCB graphic. Make sure that each pin is in a pad, sometimes if an IC that
isn’t properly aligned, it can smoosh the pins up onto itself rather than
going into the board. Verify that all pins are inside the pads, then solder
them in. The pins are short, don’t worry about trimming them after soldering .
These ship to us (and thus, you) with the legs slightly fanned outward, so
they will not drop directly in without some coercion. To make this work, hold
the sides of the IC (don’t worry, you can touch the legs) and then gently bend
the pins inward.
With some gentle shaping, the IC will drop right in.
4. Insert the film (non-cylindrical) capacitors into their indicated
positions and bend the leads out. Solder them in and trim off the excess. The
orientation of the non-electrolytic capacitors on the board does not matter.
Capacitors are technically measured in Farads, but we work with very small
values, typically in picofarads (p, pF), nanofarads (n, nF) and microfarads
(u, uF). All nano- and microfarad parts will have
the value printed right on them.
5. Insert the electrolytic capacitors into their positions, (shorter leg is
negative, it is also printed on the part itself), bend leads outward, solder
them in and trim off the excess.
6. Add the hardware, which includes the LED (the shorter of the two legs is
negative), the footswitch (make sure the flat footswitch lugs are parallel
with the board’s bottom edge, not perpendicular), jacks,
DC jack and ground spring. Solder them in and trim off the nubs.
7. Solder the wires to the potentiometer lugs, then orient the other ends of
the wires into the pads onto the board. Match the value (printed on the pots)
to the writing on the board and with the potentiometer shafts pointing up,
align them such that the lugs are pointing in the direction of the arrow
graphic near each. On this board, there are three pots (one is a dual-gang, or
double pot), the top two facing inward
and the third facing downward.
At this point, you can try the pedal out without putting it in the enclosure.
If you followed these instructions exactly, it will work, and if it does,
congratulations, put it in the enclosure and let it rip! If it doesn’t
work, it’s not a big deal! But some fixes are easier than others. If you own a
desoldering pump, you’re going to get some usage out of it.
TROUBLESHOOTING
ISSUE: NO SOUND WHATSOEVER AND NO LED LIGHT Potential problems: 1N4001
backwards, capacitor (the one near the DC jack) backwards,
footswitch inserted with lugs perpendicular to bottom board edge.
Solutions: Make sure the first two components are oriented correctly. If it’s
the footswitch, you can desolder it but it will be a challenge. Unfortunately
it is emboldened within the instructions
for this reason. ISSUE: NO SOUND WITH PEDAL ON AND/OR NO LED LIGHT Potential
problems: Missing component, electrolytic capacitors installed backwards, LED
installed backwards, IC installed backwards.
Solutions: Verify that all components are installed and in accordance with the
board footprint.
ISSUE: FILTER SOUNDS WONKY Potential problem: Dual-gang potentiometer not
wired properly
Solution: Verify that this part is lined up with its board footprint and that
all wires are in the correct pads.
ISSUE: SOUND, BUT LED ISN’T FUNCTIONING Potential problems: LED installed
backwards
Solutions: Make sure the LED is inserted according to the footprint.
Other issues? Email us! help@catalinbread.com
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