LUMBER JACK WL305 Woodworking Lathe User Manual

Operator’s Manual
Woodworking Lathe

CAUTION: Read and follow all Safety Rules and Operating Instructions before First Use of this Product. Keep this manual with the tool.

PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS

Attention: Please choose the proper power source, voltage, and frequency that are shown on the label for your lathe.
Woodworking Mini Lathe

520-3400RPM   60Hz
Spindle taper| MT2
Tailstock taper| MT2
Tool Rest| 200mm
Face plate| ￠80mm

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

WARNING: When using electric tools, basic safety precautions, including the following, should always be followed to reduce the risk of fire, electric shock, and personal injury. Read all these instructions before operating this product and save the instructions.

GENERAL

1. Read and understand the manual.
   For your own safety, read and understand the entire instruction manual before operating the lathe.

2. Read and understand the warning labels.
   Read and understand the warning labels posted on the machine. Failure to comply with all of these labels may cause serious injury.

3. Keep the work area clean.
   Cluttered areas and benches invite injuries.

4. Consider the work area environment.
   Do not expose power tools to rain. Do not use power tools in damp or wet locations. Keep work area well lit. Do not use power tools where there is a risk to cause fire or explosion.

5. Guard against electric shock.
   Avoid body contact with earthed or grounded surfaces (e.g. pipes, radiators, ranges, refrigerators).

6. Keep children away.
   Do not let visitors touch the tool or extension cord. All visitors should be kept away from the work area.

7. Store idle tools.
   When not in use, tools should be stored in a dry, high of locked-up place, out of reach of children.

8. Do not force the tool.
   It will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it was intended.

9. Use the right tool.
   Do not force small tools or attachments to do the job of a heavy-duty tool. Do not use tools for purposes not intended; for example, do not use circular saws to cut tree limbs or logs.

10. Dress properly.
    Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry, they can be caught in moving parts. Rubber gloves and non-skid footwear is recommended when working outdoors. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.

11. Use safety glasses and hearing protection.
    Also, use a face or dust mask if the cutting operation is dusty.

12. Do not abuse the cord.
    Never carry the tool by the cord or yank it to disconnect it from the socket, Keep the cord away from heat, oil, and sharp edges.

13. Do not overreach.
    Keep proper footing and balance at all times.

14. Maintain tools with care.
    Keep cutting tools sharp and clean for better and safer performance. Follow instructions for lubrication and changing accessories. Inspect the tool cord periodically and if damaged have it repaired by an authorized service facility. Inspect extension cords periodically and replace, if damaged. Keep handles dry, clean, and free from oil and grease.
    15. Disconnect tools.
    When not in use, before servicing and changing accessories such as blades, bits, and cutters, disconnect tools.
    16. Remove adjusting keys and wrenches.
    Form the habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from the tool before turning it on.
    17. Avoid unintentional starting.
    Do not carry a plugged-in tool with a finger on the switch. Ensure the switch is off when plugging in.
    18. Use outdoor extension leads.
    When the tool is used outdoors, use only extension cords intended for outdoor use.
    19. Stay alert.
    Watch what you are doing. Use common sense. Do not operate the tool when you are tired.
    20. Check damaged parts.
    Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended function. Check for alignment of moving parts, free running of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may be properly repaired or replaced by an authorized service center unless otherwise indicated in this instruction manual. Have defective switches been replaced by an authorized service facility? Do not use the tool if the switch does not turn it on and off.
    21. Warning.
    The use of any accessory or attachment, other than those recommended in this instruction manual or the catalog, may present a risk of personal injury.
    2 2. Have your tool repaired by a qualified person.
    This electric tool is in accordance with the relevant safety requirements, Repairs should only be carried out by qualified persons using original spare parts, otherwise, this may result in considerable danger to the user.

ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR THE LATHE

1. This lathe is designed and intended for use by properly trained and experienced personnel only. If you are not familiar with the proper and safe operation of a lathe, do not use it until proper training and knowledge have been obtained.
2. Always wear eye protection while using this lathe.
3. Always use a face or dust mask.
4. Do not operate this machine while tired or under the influence of drugs, alcohol, or any medication.
5. Use the right tool at the correct speed and feed rate.
6. Turning off the machine before cleaning. Use a brush or compressed air to remove chips or debris, do not use your hands.
7. Check the workpiece carefully for splits, knots, or other obstructions which may cause a safety risk while turning.
8. Adjust tool rest to proper height and position for the work. Rotate the workpiece by hand to check clearance with the tool rest before turning on the machine.
9. Select the appropriate speed for the turning job at hand. Start at low speed and allow the lathe to ramp up to operating speed.
10. Never apply coolants or water to a spinning workpiece.
11. Never stop a rotating workpiece with your hand.
12.  If gluing up a workpiece, always use a high-quality glue of the type necessary for that particular workpiece.
13. Before attaching a workpiece to the faceplate, rough-cut the workpiece close to the finished shape before screwing it to the faceplate.
14. When turning between centers, make sure the headstock and tailstock are snugs against the workpiece.

ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS

POWER SUPPLY AND MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS
WARNING: To avoid electrical hazards, fire hazards, or damage to the tool, use proper circuit protection. Use a separate electrical circuit for your tools. To avoid shock or fire, if the power cord is worn or cut, or damaged in any way, have it replaced immediately.
GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS
WARNING : This tool must be grounded while in use to protect the operator from electrical shock.
IN THE EVENT OF A MALFUNCTION OR BREAKDOWN , grounding provides a path of least resistance for electric current and reduces the risk of electric shock. This tool is equipped with an electric cord that has an equipment-grounding conductor and a grounding plug. The plug MUST be plugged into a matching receptacle that is properly installed and grounded in accordance with ALL local codes and ordinances.
DO NOT MODIFY THE PLUG PROVIDED. If it will not fit the receptacle, have the proper receptacle installed by a qualified electrician.
IMPROPER CONNECTION of the equipment-grounding conductor can result in a risk of electric shock. The conductor with green insulation (with or without yellow stripes) is the equipment-grounding conductor. If repair or replacement of the electric cord or plug is necessary, DO NOT connect the equipment- grounding conductor to a live terminal.
CHECK with a qualified electrician or service person if you do not completely understand the grounding instructions, or if you are not sure the tool is properly grounded. Refer to nether picture:

WARNING: Improper connection of equipment grounding conductor can result in the risk of electrical shock. equipment should be grounded while in use to protect the operator from electrical shock.
-Check with a qualified electrician if you do not understand grounding instructions or if you are in doubt as to whether the tool is properly grounded.
-This tool is equipped with an approved cord and a 3-prong grounding-type plug for your protection against shock hazards.
-Grounding plug should be plugged directly into a properly installed and grounded 3-prong grounding-type receptacle, as shown.
-Do not remove or alter the grounding prong in any manner. in the event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a path of least resistance for electrical shock.
WARNING: This machine is for indoor use only. Do not expose to rain or use in damp locations.
GUIDELINES FOR EXTENSION CORDS
USE THE PROPER EXTENSION CORD. Make sure your extension cord is in good condition. When using an extension cord, Be sure to use one heavy enough to carry the current your product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage, resulting in loss of power and cause overheating.
Be sure your extension cord is properly wired and in good condition. Always replace a damaged extension cord or have it repaired by a qualified person before using it. Protect your extension cords from sharp objects, excessive heat, and damp or wet areas.

ACCESSORIES AND ATTACHMENTS

RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES
WARNING: To avoid injury:

• Use only accessories recommended for this machine.
• Follow instructions that accompany accessories. The use of improper accessories may cause hazards.
• Use only accessories designed for this machine to avoid injury from thrown broken parts or workpieces.
• Do not use any accessory unless you have completely read the instruction or operator’s manual for that accessory.

CARTON CONTENTS

UNPACKING AND CHECKING CONTENTS
Carefully unpack the machine and all its parts, and compare it against the illustration following.
WARNING:

• To avoid injury from unexpected starting, do not plug the power cord into a power source receptacle during unpacking and assembly. This cord must remain unplugged whenever you are assembling or adjusting the machine.
• If any part is missing or damaged, do not plug the machine in until the missing or damaged part is replaced, and assembly is complete.

TABLE OF LOOSE PARTS

Unpack the carton; check your machine to see the parts listed below:
No. Description

INSTALLATION

1. Installing handle to handwheel.
   Attach handle screw through handle hole onto the handwheel, secure it by a screwdriver.
   

2. Installing the tool holder
   Take the pan head screw from the base, and install the tool holder to the base by using the pan head screw. Then accessories can be mounted to the tool holder.
   

3. Installing tool rest
   Loosen locking handle and insert tool rest into tool rest base, adjust the height up or down and tighten locking handle.
   

4. Installing/removing the faceplate
   • Mount faceplate by screwing it clockwise as far as it will go onto spindle threads.
   • You can tighten or loosen the faceplate by using a wrench and knockout rod.
   

5. Installing/removing spur center
   • Make sure mating surfaces of spur center and spindle are clean.
   • Drive spur center into the workpiece. (See the section of operation)
   • Push spur center into the spindle.
   You do not need to remove the faceplate to install the spur center.
   To remove spur center:
   •  Hold spur center to prevent it from falling. Use a rag to protect your hand from the sharp edges.
   •  Use knockout rod through spindle hole to tap out spur center.
   

6. Installing/removing the live center
   •  Rotate tailstock handwheel clockwise a few times to advance quill.
   •  Push live center into the quill.
   To remove live center:
   • Hold live center to prevent it from falling.
   • Rotate handwheel counterclockwise to retract quill, until live center releases from the quill.
   

7. Mounting lathe to bench table
   For effective and safe operation, the lathe should be mounted to a bench table, removing feet and using four threaded holes in its base.

ADJUSTING

1. Tool rest
   The tool rest assembly is designed to allow adjustment for height, position on the bed, and angle to the work.
   Loosen locking lever on tool rest base to slide base forward or back, and angle it to the bed. Tighten the locking lever firmly before operating the lathe.
   Loosen a small locking handle to raise or lower the tool rest and angle it to the work. Tighten the handle before operating the lathe.
   

2. Tailstock
   Loosen tailstock locking lever and slide tailstock into the desired position. Retighten the locking lever. Quill locking handle locks and unlocks the tailstock quill. Handwheel advances and retracts quill.
   

3. Speed adjustment
   This lathe has five speeds shown on the speed label.
   To change the speed:
   Loosen the knob A, pull up, and rotate the back cover.
   Loosen the knob B, pull up, and rotate the side cover.
   Release the lock handle and pull the lever to loosen the belt tension.
   Change the belt location to change the speed.
   Tighten the belt tension and lock the handle.
   Replace the back cover and side cover.
   

OPERATION

ATTENTION: Read and understand the entire instruction manual before operating the lathe

• Switch action
  To start the lathe, turn on the switch.
  To stop the lathe, turn off the switch.
  

• Turning tools
  If possible, select only quality, high-speed steel turning tools. High-speed steel tools hold an edge and last longer than ordinary carbon steel. As one becomes proficient in turning, a variety of specialty tools for specific applications can be acquired. The following tools provide the basics for most woodturning projects.
  Large roughing gouge
  Basic function: Use this tool to shape square or out-of-round spindle-turning stock into a cylinder. Other uses: Creating shallow coves.
  Skew chisel
  Basic function: The skew evens out high and low spots to shape cylinders. Vary the angle at which the tip meets the workpiece to change the aggressiveness of the cut. Other uses: Cutting beads and V-grooves.
  Spindle gouge
  Basic function: The spindle gouge cuts coves, beads, and free-form contours. Other uses: Producing shallow hollows on faceplate turnings.
  Parting tool
  Basic function: Use the parting tool to form grooves and tenons, and to cut stock off. Other uses: Rolling small beads.
  Bowl gouge
  Basic function: The bowl gouge cuts external and internal profiles on faceplate-mounted stock, such as bowls and platters.
  Other uses: Creating ultrasmooth cuts on bowls and spindles by using as a shearing scraper.
  Round nose scraper
  Basic function: Use the scraper for nonaggressive shaping of spindles and bowls, and to smooth without removing much stock.
  Other uses: Nonaggressive smoothing.
  

• Spindle turning
  Spindle turning takes place between the centers of the lathe. It requires a spur center in the headstock and a live center in the tailstock. A cup center rather than a cone center in the tailstock will often reduce the risk of splitting the stock.
  3.1 Stock selection and installation
  Stock for spindles should be straight-grained and free of cracks, knots, and other defects.

• With a combination square, or plastic center finder for round stock, locate and mark the center on each end of the workpiece. Accuracy is not critical on full rounds but extremely important on stock where square sections are to remain. Put a dimple in the stock with an awl or nail, or use a spring-loaded automatic center punch.

• Extremely hardwoods may require kerfs cut into the ends of the stock using a band saw, so the wood will accept the spur center and the live center.

• Drive the spur center about 3mm into the workpiece, and use a wooden mallet or dead blow hammer. Be careful that you do not split the workpiece. Never use a steel face hammer and never drive the workpiece onto the spur center while it is mounted in the lathe spindle.
  

• Clean the tapered end of the spur center and the inside of the headstock spindle.

•  Insert the tapered end of the spur center (with the attached workpiece) into the headstock spindle.

• Support the workpiece while bringing the tailstock into position. Lock the tailstock to the bed.

• Advance the tailstock quill with the handwheel in order to seat the live center into the workpiece. Use enough pressure to secure the workpiece between the centers so that it won’t fly off, but do not use excessive pressure.

• Tighten the quill locking handle.
  Attention: The tailstock ram is capable of exerting excessive pressure against the workpiece and the headstock. Apply only sufficient force with the tailstock to hold the workpiece securely in place. Excessive pressure can overheat center bearings and damage both the workpiece and lathe.

• Move tool rests into position. It should be parallel to the workpiece, just below the centerline and approximately 3mm to 6mm from the corners of the workpiece to be turned. Tighten tool rest base to lathe bed.
  

• Rotate the workpiece by hand to check for proper clearance.

•  Start the lathe at the lowest speed and bring it up to the appropriate speed for the size of the workpiece.
  3.2 Cutting techniques
  Roughing out

• Begin with a large roughing gouge. Place the tool on the tool rest with the heel of the tool on the
  surface to be cut.

• Slowly and gently raise the tool handle until the cutting edge comes into contact with the workpiece.

• Beginning about 50mm from the tailstock end of the workpiece, roll the flute (hollowed-out-portion) of the tool in the direction of the cut. Make long sweeping cuts in a continuous motion to rough the piece down to a cylinder.

• Keep as much of the bevel of the tool as possible in contact with the workpiece to ensure control and avoid catches.
  Note: Always cut downhill, or from large diameter to small diameter. Always work toward the end of the workpiece, never start cutting at the end.
  

• Once the workpiece is roughed down to the cylinder, smooth it with a large skew. Keep the skew handle perpendicular to the spindle and use only the center third of the cutting edge for a long smoothing cut (touching one of the points of the skew to the spinning workpiece may cause a catch and ruin the workpiece).

• Add details to the workpiece with skew, parting tool, scraper or spindle gouge.
  Beads

• Make a parting cut for what is to be a bead to the desired depth. Place the parting tool on the tool rest and move the tool forward to make the full bevel of the tool come into contact with the workpiece. Gently raise the handle to make the cut to the appropriate depth.

• Repeat for another side of the bead.

• Using a small skew or spindle gouge, start in the center between the two cuts and cut down each side to form the bead. Roll the tool in direction of the cut.
  Coves

• Use a spindle gouge. With the flute of the tool at 90 degrees to the workpiece, touch the point of the tool to the workpiece and roll in towards the bottom of the cove. Stop at the bottom; attempting to go up the opposite side may cause the tool to catch.
  

• Move the tool over the desired width of the cove.

• With the flute facing the opposite direction, repeat the step for another side of the cove. Stop at bottom of the cut.
  V-grooves
  

• Use the point of the skew.

• Lightly mark the center of the “V” with the top of the skew.

• Move the point of the skew to the right half of the desired width of your cut.

• With the bevel parallel to the right side of the cut, raise the handle and push the tool into the desired depth.
  

• Repeat from the left side. The two cuts should meet at the bottom and leave a clean v-groove.

• Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the depth or width of the cut.
  Parting off

• Use the parting tool.

•  Adjust lathe speed to lower speed for parting through a workpiece.

• Place tool on tool rest and raise the handle until it starts to cut and continue to cut toward the center of the workpiece.

• Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as it separates from the waste wood.
  Sanding and finishing
  Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of sanding required. Move the tool rest out of the way, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarser sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle. Progress through each grit without skipping grits (for example, do not jump from 120 grit to 220 grit). Fold the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper around your fingers or the workpiece. To apply a finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe. Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel to apply the finish. Remove excess finish before restarting the lathe. Allow to dry and sand again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of finish and buff.

4. Faceplate and bowl turning
4.1 Mounting stock
The use of a faceplate is the most common method for holding a block of wood for turning bowls and plates.

• Select stock at least 5mm larger than each dimension of the finished workpiece.

• Always select the largest diameter faceplate that can be used for the workpiece to be turned.

• True one surface of the workpiece for mounting against the faceplate.

• Using the faceplate as a template, mark the location of the mounting holes on the workpiece, and drill pilot holes of the appropriate size.
  If the mounting screws on the faceplate interfere with the workpiece. A glue or waste block can be used:

• Make a block the same diameter as the faceplate. Both waste block and workpiece should have flat surfaces for gluing.

• Glue the block to the workpiece. Avoid using brown paper or newspaper between the waste block and the workpiece. It may work fine if you are using scrapers, but a slight catch with a bowl gouge can separate the two.
  Using a chuck
  While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable method of holding a block of wood for turning, chucks can also be used. A chuck is not a requirement but is handy when working on more than one piece at a time. Rather than removing screws, you simply open the chuck and change workpieces. The most popular ones are four-jaw scroll chucks with a variety of jaws to accommodate different size tenons. Most also come with a screw chuck as well.
  4.2 To shape the outside of the bowl

• Odd-shaped burls, crotches, and other irregular-shaped blanks require special preparation before mounting in a chuck or onto a faceplate. Remove the bark, if there is any, from what appears to be the center of the top of the workpiece.

• Driver spur center into the top of the workpiece with a mallet or dead blow hammer.

• Slip the spur center into the headstock taper and bring the tailstock with a live center into position. Lock the tailstock to the bed and advance the quill in order to seat the cut center into the workpiece. Tighten the quill locking handle.

• Turn the workpiece by hand to ensure proper clearance.

• Start the lathe at the lowest speed and bring it up to the proper speed for the size of work to be turned. If the machine starts to vibrate, lower the speed until the vibration stops.

• Rough out the outside of the bowl with the bowl gouge, holding the handle of the tool firmly against your hip.

• As the bowl takes shape, work on the bottom (tailstock end) to accommodate attaching a faceplate.

• Turn a short tenon to the size of the hole in the faceplate. This will allow the centering of the workpiece when the faceplate is attached.
  Note: If you plan to use a chuck, turn a tenon of the appropriate length and diameter to fit your chuck.
  

• Stop the lathe, remove the workpiece and attach the face plate or chuck.

•  Finish turning the outside of the bowl with a bowl gouge. Leave additional material at the base of the bowl for support while turning the interior. This will be removed later.
  To shape the interior of the bowl

• Stop the lathe and move the tailstock away.

• Adjust tool rest in front of the bowl just below centerline, at a right angle to the lathe ways.

• Rotate the workpiece by hand to check clearance.

• Face off the top of the bowl by making a light shearing cut across the top of the workpiece, from rim to center.

• Place bowl gouge on tool rest at the center of the workpiece with the flute facing the top of the bowl. The tool handle should be level and pointed toward the four o’clock position.
  

• Use the left hand to control the cutting edge of the gouge, while the right-hand swings the tool handles around toward your body. The flute should start out facing the top of the workpiece, and rotate upward as it moves deeper into the bowl to maintain a clean even curve. As the tool goes deeper into the bowl, progressively work out toward the rim. It may be necessary to turn the tool rest into the piece as you get deeper into the bowl.
  Note: Try to make one, very light continuous movement from the rim to the bottom of the bowl to ensure a clean, sweeping curve through the piece. Should there be a few small ridges left, a light cut with a large domed scraper can even out the surface.

• Develop wall thickness at the rim and maintain it as you work deeper into the bowl (Once the piece is thin toward the bottom, you cannot make it thinner at the rim). When the interior is finished, move the tool rest to the exterior to re-define the bottom of the bowl.

• Wok the tight area around the faceplate of the chuck with a bowl gouge.

• Begin the separation with a parting tool, but do not cut all the way through yet.
  Sanding and finishing

• Remove the tool rest and adjust to a slower speed. High speed can build friction while sanding and cause heat check in some woods.

• Begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit) and progress through each grit, using only light pressure. Coarser sandpaper tends to leave deep scratches that are hard to eliminate. Use power-sanding techniques to avoid concentric sanding marks around your finished piece. Avoid rounding over the rim and foot with sandpaper; try to keep details crisp. Finish sanding with 220 grit.

• Remove sanding dust with tack rags or compressed air, with the lathe turned off, and apply the first coat of finish. Let stand for several minutes, and wipe off excess. Allow drying before sanding again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

• Turn the lathe back on and continue the separation cut almost all the way through the base. Stop at about 75mm and use a small fine tooth saw to separate the bowl from the waste.

• Apply a second finish coat and allow to dry before buffing.

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance General
Keep your machine clean. At the end of each day, clean the machine. Wood contains moisture, and if sawdust or wood chips are not removed, they will cause rust. Regular oil attracts dust and dirt. Teflon lubricant tends to dry and has fewer tendencies to accumulate dirt and sawdust. Periodically check that all nuts and bolts are tight.
Drive belt
The drive belt should last for many years (depending on the usage) but needs to be inspected regularly for cracks, cuts, and general wear. If damage is found, replace the belt.
Bearings
All bearings are sealed for life and do not require any maintenance. If a bearing becomes faulty, replace it.
Rust
The lathe is made from steel and cast iron. All non-painted surfaces will rust if not protected. It is recommended that they are protected by applying wax.

TROUBLESHOOTING

cut
Improper belt adjustment, or worn belt| Adjust or replace the belt
Worn spindle bearing| Replace bearing
Excessive vibration| Workpiece warped, out of round, has a major flaw or was improperly prepared for turning| Correct problem by planning or sawing workpiece, or discard entirely and use new workpiece
Worn spindle bearing| Replace spindle bearings
Worn drive belt| Replace drive belt
Lathe on an uneven surface| Place lathe on a flat surface
Tools tend to grab or dig in| Dull tools| Keep tools sharp
Tool rest set too low| Reposition tool rest height
Tool rest set too far from workpiece| Reposition tool rest closer to the workpiece
The improper tool being used| Use the correct tool for operation
Tailstock moves when applying pressure| Cam lock nut needs adjusting| Tighten cam lock nut
Lathe bed and tailstock mating surfaces are greasy or oil| Remove tailstock and clean surfaces with a cleaner. Reapply a light coat of oil to the lathe bed surface

ASSEMBLY DIAGRAM

PART LIST

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