Grizzly T10808 Wood Lathe Chuck Set Instructions

: June 5, 2024
: GRIZZLY

Grizzly T10808 Wood Lathe Chuck Set Instructions

Introduction

The T10808 23⁄4″ Wood Lathe Chuck Set includes a scroll chuck with four self- centering bottom jaws and five top jaw sets to provide a variety of gripping needs for your wood turning projects.

Specifications

Chuck Body Diameter: 23⁄4″
Chuck Bore: 1″ x 8 TPI
Outside Grip Range:
- #1 Step Jaws: 3⁄32″–5⁄8″
- #2 Round Jaws: 11⁄8″–13⁄4″
- #3Round Jaws: 21⁄4″–23⁄8″
- Pin Jaws: 1⁄4″–7 ⁄8″
Inside Grip Range:
- #1 Step Jaws: (Upper Step) 3⁄4″–11⁄4″
- #1 Step Jaws: (Lower Step) 11⁄2″–21⁄8″
- #2 Round Jaws: 11⁄2″–21⁄8″
- #3 Round Jaws: 27 ⁄8″–33⁄8″
- Pin Jaws: 15⁄16″–11⁄2″
Flat Jaws Maximum Outside Diameter: 43⁄8″
Flat Jaws Minimum Inside Diameter: 21⁄16″
Woodworm Screw Required Hole: 1⁄4″ x 7 ⁄8

Warning To prevent personal injury, always understand and follow all safety instructions in your wood lathe owner’s manual.

Inventory

Description

B. Spindle Lever 8mm: 1
C. Woodworm Screw 1
D. Lathe Chuck Key 8mm: 1
E. Chuck Body: 1
F. Pin Jaws: 4
G. #2 Round Jaws: 4
H. Grip Studs 18mm, M6-1 x 6: 8
I. Flat Jaws: 4
J. #1 Step Jaws: 4
K. Grip Studs 13mm, M6-1 x 6: 8
L. Cap Screws M4-.7 x 8: 8
M. #3 Round Jaws: 4
N. Hex Wrench 4mm: 1
Description

Safety for Wood Lathes

Warning

MAIN INJURY HAZARDS: Death or crushing injury from getting entangled in rotating spindle or work piece; death, blindness, or broken bones from being struck by a work piece that breaks apart or comes loose during rotation, turning tool kickback, or flying wood chips. To minimize your risk of these hazards, always heed the following warning information:

INTEGRITY OF STOCK. Verify each work piece is free of knots, splits, nails, or foreign material to ensure it can safely rotate on spindle without breaking apart or causing turning tool kickback.

WORKPIECE PREPARATION. Before mounting, cut off waste portions with a band saw or other tool to ensure work piece has no large edges to catch turning tool, and it will rotate without dangerous wobbling.

SECURING LOCKS. Verify tool rest, headstock, and tailstock are secure before turning lathe ON.

SECURING WORKPIECE. An improperly secured work piece can fly off spindle with deadly force. Use proven setup techniques and always verify work piece is well-secured before starting lathe. Only use high-quality fasteners with non- tapered heads for faceplate attachment.

TOOL SUPPORT. An improperly supported tool may be grabbed or ejected. Adjust tool rest approximately 1⁄4″ away from work piece and 1⁄8″ above work piece center line to provide proper support for turning tool. Firmly hold turning tool with both hands against tool rest.

TOOL KICKBACK. Occurs when turning tool is ejected from work piece with great force, striking operator or bystanders. Commonly caused by poor work piece selection/preparation, improper tool usage, or improper machine setup or tool rest adjustment.

ADJUSTMENT TOOLS. Remove all chuck keys, wrenches, and adjustment tools before turning lathe ON. A tool left on the lathe can become a deadly projectile when spindle is started.

SAFE CLEARANCES. Before starting spindle, verify work piece has adequate clearance by hand rotating it through its entire range of motion.

EYE/FACE PROTECTION. Always wear a face shield and safety glasses when operating lathe.

PROPER APPAREL. Do not wear gloves, necktie or loose clothing. Keep keep long hair away from rotating spindle.

SPEED RATES. Select correct spindle speed for work piece size, type, shape, and condition. Use low speeds when roughing or when turning large, long, or non-concentric work pieces. Allow spindle to reach full speed before turning.

NEW SETUPS. Test each new setup by starting spindle rotation at the lowest speed and standing to the side of the lathe until work piece reaches full speed and you can verify safe rotation.

ROUGHING. Use correct tool. Take light cuts, use low speeds, and firmly support tool with both hands.

SHARP TOOLS. Only use sharp turning tools— they cut with less resistance than dull tools. Dull turning tools can catch or grab and pull your hands into the rotating work piece.

STOPPING SPINDLE. Always allow spindle to completely stop on its own. Never put hands or another object on spinning work piece.

ADJUSTMENTS/MAINTENANCE. Make sure wood lathe is turned OFF, disconnected from power, and all moving parts are completely stopped before doing adjustments or maintenance.

MEASURING WORKPIECE. Only measure work piece after it has stopped. Trying to measure a spinning work piece increases entanglement risk.

SANDING/POLISHING. To reduce entanglement risk, remove tool rest before sanding. Never completely wrap sandpaper around work piece.

Safety for Chucks

Warring

ENTANGLEMENT. Entanglement with a rotating chuck can lead to death, amputation, broken bones, or other serious injury. Never attempt to slow or stop the lathe chuck by hand, and always roll up long sleeves, tie back long hair, and remove any jewelry or loose apparel BEFORE operating.

CHUCK SPEED RATING. Excessive spindle speeds greatly increase the risk of the workpiece or chuck being thrown from the machine with deadly force. Never use spindle speeds faster than the safe limits of your chuck and workpiece.

USING CORRECT EQUIPMENT. Many workpieces can only be safely turned in a lathe if additional support equipment, such as a tailstock center, is used. If the operation is too hazardous to be completed with the lathe or existing equipment, the operator must have enough experience to know when to use a different machine or find a safer way.

TRAINED OPERATORS ONLY. Using a chuck incorrectly can result in workpieces coming loose at high speeds and striking the operator or bystanders with deadly force. To reduce the risk of this hazard, read and understand this document
and seek additional training from an experienced chuck user before using a chuck.

CHUCK CAPACITY. Avoid exceeding the capacity of the chuck by clamping an oversized workpiece. If the workpiece is too large to safely clamp with the chuck, use a faceplate or a larger chuck if possible. Otherwise, the workpiece could be thrown from the lathe during operation, resulting in serious impact injury or death.

CLAMPING FORCE. Inadequate clamping force can lead to the workpiece being thrown from the chuck and striking the operator or bystanders. Maximum clamping force is achieved when the chuck is properly maintained and lubricated, all jaws are fully engaged with the workpiece, and the maximum chuck clamping diameter is not
exceeded.

PROPER MAINTENANCE. All chucks must be properly maintained and lubricated to achieve maximum clamping force and withstand the rigors of centrifugal force. To reduce the risk of a thrown work piece, follow all maintenance intervals and
instructions in this document.

DISCONNECT POWER. Serious entanglement or impact injuries could occur if the lathe is started while you are adjusting, servicing, or installing the chuck. Always disconnect the lathe from power before performing these procedures.

TOP JAW TYPES. Mixing top jaw types will create an unbalanced and off- center load that could fly from the lathe and cause personal injury or property damage. Use all four top jaws of the same type when securing work piece.

POWER TOOLS. Do not use power tools on cap screws or grip studs, which can easily damage the threads and cause the component to fail during operation. A work piece or chuck component not properly secured can fly off during operation and
cause serious personal injury.

TENON/RECESS SIZE. Size the tenon or recess properly and choose the correct jaw configuration so that there is the greatest possible amount of surface contact between jaws and work piece. The greater the surface contact, the greater the gripping power!

FLAT JAWS. Flat jaws (or cole jaws) provide the least gripping power of the jaw types. Always use slow speeds when using flat jaws.

SAFETY SET SCREW. The safety set screw under bottom jaw #4 prevents the jaws from moving beyond safe engagement with the scroll gear. If this should happen, the jaws and work piece could fly off the chuck during operation resulting in serious personal injury to operator or bystanders. Always make sure this set screw is properly
installed and tightened when using the chuck.

Mounting Jaws

Clean top and bottom jaws with mineral spirits. When dry, apply a thin coat of ISO 32 or equivalent oil to the mating surfaces.
Place top jaws on bottom jaws so alignment rings (see example below) fit into alignment slots and screw holes are aligned.
Note: Make sure stamped numbers of chuck jaw guide, bottom jaw, and top chuck correspond with each other to ensure jaws safely and evenly grip work piece.
Apply a thin coat of ISO 32 or equivalent oil to cap screw threads to prevent screws from seizing under operational forces.
Thread the cap screws through the top jaws into the bottom jaws and finger tighten them, then back them off 1 ⁄4 turn.
Use chuck key to converge jaws to the center so they are evenly up against one another and even in height.
Fully tighten cap screws—do not overtighten.
Check jaw alignment. They should be evenly up against one another with no gaps and even in height.
- If this is not the case, repeat this procedure until they are.

Warning

The safety set screw under bottom jaw #4 (shown below) prevents the jaws from moving beyond safe engagement with the scroll gear. Unsecured jaws could fly off the
chuck during operation resulting in serious personal injury to operator or bystanders.
Always make sure this set screw is properly installed and tightened when using the chuck.
Safety Set Screw

Mounting Chuck

It is important that the chuck is properly mounted to the lathe to ensure safe and accurate turning (see the example below).
Mounting Chuck

To mount the chuck onto the lathe

DISCONNECT LATHE FROM POWER!
Thoroughly clean threads of spindle and chuck bore with mineral spirits and a stiff brush.
Properly mount top jaws onto bottom jaws.
To prevent chuck binding to spindle under operational forces, apply a thin coat of ISO 32 or equivalent oil to spindle threads.
Thread chuck onto spindle and hand tighten. It should screw on without binding or excessive play.
Lock spindle in place.
Back chuck off slightly, then quickly rotate chuck onto spindle. This will firmly seat the chuck.

Indexing

The chuck back plate has indents and numbers for performing indexing operations. Indexing allows the circumference of the work piece to be divided into equal segments.

An indexing arm (not included) is required to take advantage of this feature. Research books and the internet to better understand the process, what is required, and how to perform indexing operations.

Notice

When mounting work piece on jaws, do not contact work piece with the lower flat of
jaws. This provides better gripping power and avoids any inconsistencies between surfaces that would interfere with true rotation.

Chuck Types

The best jaw type to use is the one that will provide the greatest contact between the jaw and the work piece this provides the best gripping power!

Round Jaws
Round jaws (or dovetail jaws) are typically either closed around a tenon (or foot) turned on the bottom of a bowl, or they are expanded into a recess cut into the work piece. The tenon is later removed with the work piece mounted on the flat jaws.

A dowel work piece can also be fed through the center of the chuck and spindle bore, and gripped with center surfaces of the jaw flats. As each piece is turned and cut off, the dowel can be advanced for the next piece.

The #2 round jaws have a slight dovetail profile. If a matching profile is cut into the recess, the jaws can expand with much greater gripping power.

The #3 round jaws can hold much larger work pieces than the #2 round jaws and have ridges that press into the wood for a better grip.

2 Round Jaws:
Outside Grip Range: 11⁄8″–13⁄4″
Inside Grip Range: 11⁄2″–21⁄8″

3 Round Jaws:
Outside Grip Range: 21⁄4″–27 ⁄8″
Inside Grip Range: 27 ⁄8″–33⁄8″

Pin Jaws
Pin jaws are typically used to expand into a deep recess cut into a bowl- shaped work piece for initial roughing of the outside and tenon (or foot).

When used to grip the inside of a recess, the advantage to pin jaws over step or round jaws is that they offer a lot of surface area for gripping. They also have ridges on the outside for greater gripping power. The disadvantage is that the recess must be fairly deep. However, this is usually cut into the waste portion of the work piece and removed later.

The smooth center surface of the pin jaws can also grip externally around a small tenon on objects such as Christmas ornaments, wooden tops, lace bobbins, or other delicate work without marring the work piece.

Outside Grip Range: 1⁄4″–7 ⁄8″
Inside Grip Range: 15⁄16″–11⁄2
Pin Jaws

Step Jaws
The step jaws have two outside profiles of different circumferences designed to expand into the recess cut into the work piece. The surfaces of the jaws have ridges that push into the wood which increases the gripping power.

The center surfaces of the step jaws are ridged and can grip a dowel-type work piece from the outside that is fed through the chuck and spindle bore.

Basically, step jaws combine the capabilities of the round jaws and the pin jaws, but are much more versatile than either of those jaws alone.

Outside Grip Range: …………………………. 3⁄32″–5⁄8″
Inside Grip Range:
- Upper Step: 3⁄4″–11⁄4″
- Lower Step: 11⁄2″–21⁄8″

Flat Jaws (or Cole Jaws)
Used with included grip studs, flat jaws are primarily used to finish the bottom of a bowl-type work piece (see examples below). The included studs are 13 and 18mm in height and are rubber coated to prevent marring. Use the stud set and configuration that has the most surface contact with the work piece.

Flat Jaws Maximum Outside Diameter: 43⁄8″
Flat Jaws Minimum Inside Diameter: 21⁄16

Woodworm Screw
The woodworm screw is typically used with the #2 round jaw set for holding small items. Refer to the illustration below for closing the round jaws around the base of the screw.

The woodworm screw has a very coarse 45° thread that provides a positive grip in the wood.

Using the woodworm screw is an easy way to mount a blank work piece, but does not provide the gripping power that the other jaws do. For heavy, unbalanced work pieces or ones that require more gripping power, use one of the jaw types or screw the work piece to a faceplate.

When using the woodworm screw, make sure the work piece is as round as possible, then drill a 1⁄4″ x 7 ⁄8″ hole in the waste portion of the work piece. Thread the work piece onto the screw until it is seated firmly against the chuck.

Bottom Jaw Removal & Installation

If it is necessary to remove the bottom jaws for maintenance or replacement, follow these steps to ensure the jaws will safely and evenly grip work pieces.

To remove the bottom jaws:

Remove top jaws.
Using chuck key, bring bottom jaws together in center of chuck. This will provide access to safety set screw.
Remove safety set screw under bottom jaw #4 (see below) and set it aside.
Insert chuck key and rotate it counterclockwise to move the bottom jaws away from center of chuck.
Remove jaws one by one as they disengage from the scroll gear.

To re-install the bottom jaws

Clean bottom jaws and jaw guides with mineral spirits. When dry, apply a thin coat of ISO 32 or equivalent oil to the mating surfaces.
Make sure safety set screw is properly installed in jaw guide #4.
Rotate chuck key clockwise until you see the tip of scroll gear lead thread just begin to enter jaw guide #1 (see below).
Insert bottom jaw #1 into jaw guide #1, and hold jaw against scroll gear.
Rotate chuck key clockwise one turn to engage tip of scroll gear lead thread with bottom jaw. Pull the jaw; it should be locked into jaw guide.
Install the remaining jaws in numerical order, in the same manner. If installed correctly, the jaws will converge evenly at center of chuck.
- If jaws do not converge evenly, remove them. Make sure stamped numbers of bottom jaws and jaw guides match, then re-install jaws and make sure each one engages with scroll gear lead thread during its first rotation.

Maintenance

Clean and lubricate the chuck on a regular basis to ensure the jaws move in and out evenly, can be properly secured to the chuck, and provide a solid grip.

Cleaning

Brush chips and dust off the chuck and jaws. Do not use pressurized air that can drive the debris farther into the chuck.

If resin builds up on the sliding surfaces making the chuck difficult to operate, soak the chuck and jaws for 30 minutes in mineral spirits with 10% ISO 32 or equivalent oil added. Drain thoroughly and allow to dry

Lubrication

Apply a thin coat of ISO 32 or equivalent oil to all outside surfaces of bottom and top jaws, and chuck body.
Turn the chuck upside down and remove the two Phillips head screws that secure back plate, then remove back plate (see below for an example).
Add several drops of ISO 32 or equivalent oil to pinion gears, then use chuck key to rotate scroll gear back and forth to evenly distribute the lubricant.
Replace the back plate before using chuck in operations.

Parts

REF

| PART #|

DESCRIPTION

---|---|---
1| PT10808001| CAP SCREW M4-.7 X 8
2| PT10808002| SET SCREW M4-.7 X 6 CONE-PT
3| PT10808003| ROUND JAW #2 4-PC SET
4| PT10808004| BOTTOM JAW 4-PC SET
5| PT10808005| PINION GEAR
6| PT10808006| CHUCK BODY
7| PT10808007| THREADED LOCK PIN
8| PT10808008| SCROLL GEAR
9| PT10808009| EXT RETAINING RING 34MM
10| PT10808010| INDEXING BACK PLATE
11| PT10808011| FLAT HD SCR M3-.5 X 10
12| PT10808012| STEP JAW #1 4-PC SET
13| PT10808013| PIN JAW 4-PC SET
14| PT10808014| ROUND JAW #3 4-PC SET
15| PT10808015| FLAT JAW 4-PC SET
16| PT10808016| WOODWORM SCREW
17| PT10808017| GRIP STUD M6-1 X 6, 18L 8-PC SET
18| PT10808018| HEX WRENCH 4MM
19| PT10808019| T-HANDLE HEX WRENCH 3MM
20| PT10808020| LATHE CHUCK KEY 8MM CHROME
21| PT10808021| GRIP STUD M6-1 X 6, 13L 8-PC SET
22| PT10808022| SPINDLE LEVER 8MM
24| PT10808024| CHUCK ASSEMBLY

Please Note : We do our best to stock replacement parts whenever possible, but we cannot guarantee that all parts shown here re available for purchase. Call 800-523-4777 or visit our online parts store at www.grizzly.com to check for availability.