IFIXIT Quest 2 Oculus Virtual Reality Instruction Manual

IFIXIT Quest 2 Oculus Virtual Reality

Product Information

Specifications:

• Product Name: Oculus Quest 2
• Manufacturer: Meta (formerly Facebook/Oculus)
• Processor: Qualcomm XR2
• RAM: 6 GB
• Resolution: 1823 x 1920 per eye

Product Usage Instructions

Tools Required:

• T2 Torx Screwdriver (1)
• Phillips #0 Screwdriver (1)
• ESD-safe pry tool (1)
• 3.5mm Hex Socket (1)
• iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6) (1)

Step-by-Step Disassembly:

1. Unscrew the rear cover: Remove the T2 screws holding the inner lining in place.
2. Remove the rear cover: Use a pry tool to carefully lift and remove the rear cover.
3. Unscrew the front cover: Remove the P0 screws securing the front cover.
4. Remove the front cover: Release the clips by prying at designated spots and lift the front cover away.
5. Unplug the battery: Disconnect the side WiFi antenna, remove screws, and unplug the battery.
6. Remove the Bluetooth antenna, cooling fan, heatsink, and mainboard: Follow the specific steps mentioned in the manual to detach these components.
7. Remove the midframe and battery: Unscrew and detach these components carefully.
8. Remove the arms/speakers: Detach these components by removing the specified screws.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):

1. Q: How long is the battery life of Oculus Quest 2?
   A: The Quest 2 has a battery life of 2.5 hours, drawing an average of 5.6W.

2. Q: What are the main tools needed for disassembly?
   A: The main tools required for disassembly are a T2 Torx Screwdriver, Phillips #0 Screwdriver, ESD-safe pry tool, 3.5mm Hex Socket, and iFixit Opening Picks.

Oculus Quest 2 Disassembly
The Oculus Quest 2, also known as the Meta…

Written By : sctanf

INTRODUCTION

The Oculus Quest 2, also known as the Meta Quest 2, is a VR headset developed by Facebook (formerly Oculus) and is the 2nd iteration of the original Quest. The Quest 2 can run as a standalone headset, or in tandem with a computer when it’s connected with either a USB cable or over Wi-Fi. The headset also features a Qualcomm XR2 processor, 6 GB of RAM, and a resolution of 1823 x 1920 per eye.
Also, be sure to keep track of all the screws, this headset has a lot of them.
For step-by-step repair guides, click here.

TOOL:

• T2 Torx Screwdriver (1) Phillips #0 Screwdriver (1)
• ESD-safe pry tool (1)
• 3.5mm Hex Socket (1)
• iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6) (1)

Step 1 – Unscrew the rear cover

Start by removing the six T2 screws that hold the inner lining of the headset to the front.

Step 2 – Remove the rear cover

• One side at a time, insert a pick next to the nosepiece, slide it to the edge and pry.
• When both sides are loose, carefully lift the cover out, and fold it so that the nose piece is on the outer perimeter of the device, as shown in the second image.
• The proximity sensor is still connected via a flex cable, so be careful to not rip or crease the cable.
• Lift the small black clip on the ZIF connecter up, and pull the flex cable out.
• The cable is lightly adhered to the headset so be careful when removing it.
• During reassembly, make sure to position the cable correctly. Latching the small black clip back on shouldn’t require much force. If you don’t connect the cable correctly, the headset’s screen may stay black and the device will  turn off after a few seconds.

Step 3 – Unscrew the front cover

• Remove the three P0 screws.
• Remove the two P0 screws
• The two orange screws near the top are very deep, a longer head screwdriver may be required

Step 4 – Remove the front cover

• Insert a pick and pry at these four spots to release the clips.
• Lift the front cover away from the headset.

Step 5 – Unplug the battery

• Unplug the side WiFi antenna.
• Remove the single P0 screw
• Remove the two P0 screws
• Unplug the battery.
• Remember to put part of the battery ribbon cable under the logic board when reassembling.

Step 6 – Remove the Bluetooth antenna

• Unplug the Bluetooth antenna. 2x P0 screws
• 4x P0 screws
• 2x P0 screws—these are longer than the other screws.
• Lift the antenna away from the headset.

Step 7 – Remove the cooling fan

• Unplug the fan.
• 1x T2 screw
• 1x P0 screw
• Lift the front LED away from the headset. Lift the fan away from the headset.

Step 8 – Remove the heatsink

• 4x P0 screws
• Remove the heatsink.

Step 9 – Remove the mainboard

• Unplug the side WiFi antenna connector.
• Unplug the cable leading to the USB Type-C port and headphone jack.
• Lift and unplug the cables leading to the speakers.
• Unlatch and remove the cables leading to the top cameras, power button and status LED, bottom cameras, microphones, and volume rocker.
• Unplug the cables connecting the bottom cameras.
• Unlatch and remove the cables leading to the front LED and IPD sensor, and proximity sensor.
• Unplug the cable leading to the screen.

Step 10 – Remove the mainboard

• 1x 3.5mm hex screw 4x PO screws
• Remove the mainboard.

Step 11 – Mainboard

Close up on the mainboard.

Step 12 – Remove the midframe

• 2x P0 screws
• 2x P0 screws
• Unroute the side WiFi antenna.
• Lift the midframe away from the case.

Step 13 – Remove the battery

• 4x P0 screws hold the battery in the case.
• 3x T2 screws secure the battery cover.
• The Quest 2 has a battery life of 2.5 hours, drawing an average of 5.6W.

Step 14 – Remove the arms/speakers

• Four P0 screws hold part of the retaining plastics on each arm/speaker.
• Remove the four metal clips on each arm/speaker.
• The plastics holding the arms on can be removed/twisted off, releasing the arms from the rest of the case.

Step 15 – Lens assembly

• Small metal tabs hold the guide rails that the lenses slide on. Removing the rails reveals the display.
• There is a protective sheet of plastic over the screen. Be careful of dust and scratches.

References

• Meta Quest 2 Repair - iFixit
• Halberd Spudger
• iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6): Thin Prying and Separating Tools
• Phillips #0 Screwdriver
• T2 Torx Screwdriver

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