Handi Quilter HQ Studio3 Quilter Studio 3 Quilting Frame

Product Information

Specifications

• Number of Boxes: 7
• Parts and Hardware Lists: Pages 2, 3, 4, and 5

What’s Included
Your frame should have been delivered in seven separate boxes. Upon opening, please check immediately to see if you have received the items listed in the Parts and Hardware lists found on pages 2, 3, 4, and 5. If you find you are missing any items, please contact your retailer.

Frame Assembly Instructions
Follow the steps below to assemble your frame:

1. Step 1: Pole End Assembly

2. Take out 5 Pole End parts (QF09341-703) from Box 4.

3. Take out 5 Locking Retainer parts (QF09341-706) from Box 4.

4. Take out 5 Shoulder Screw parts (8mmx16 SHLD M6 THRD) (QF09341-708) from Box 4.

5. Step 2: Shoulder Screw Assembly

6. Take out 2 Shoulder Screw parts (8mmx10 SHLD M6 THRD) (QF09341-108) from Box 4.

7. Take out 4 Retainer Pole End parts (QF09341-707) from Box 4.

8. Step 3: Rear Pole Side Arm Assembly

9. Take out Left Rear Pole Side Arm Assy (QF09341-200-2) from Box 5.

10. Take out Right Rear Pole Side Arm Assy (QF09341-100-2) from Box 5.

11. Step 4: Handwheel Assembly
    Take out the Handwheel Assembly (QF09341-750) from Box 4.

12. Step 5: Connecting Arm Assembly

13. Take out the Left Connecting Arm (QF09341-202) from Box 5.

14. Take out the Right Connecting Arm (QF09341-102) from Box 5.

15. Step 6: Ratchet Wheel Assembly
    Take out 3 Ratchet Wheel parts (QF09341-704) from Box 4.

16. Step 7: Front Pole Side Arm Assembly

17. Take out Left Front Pole Side Arm Assy (QF09341-220) from Box 5.

18. Take out Right Front Pole Side Arm Assy (QF09341-120) from Box 5.

19. Step 8: Tube, Side Arm Height Assembly
    Take out 4 Tube, Side Arm Height parts (QF09341-104) from Box 5.

20. Step 9: Leg Assembly

21. Take out the Left Leg Assembly (QF09341-500-2) from Box 3.

22. Take out 2 Middle Leg Assembly parts (QF09341-600) from Box 4.

23. Take out the Right Leg Assembly (QF09341-400-2) from Box 3.

24. Step 10: Table Section Assembly

25. Take out the 4-Foot Table Section (QF09341-300) from Box 2.

26. Take out the 2-Foot Table Section (QF09337-300) from Box 6.

27. Step 11: Frame Coupler Assembly
    Take out 4 Table Frame Coupler parts from Box 5.

28. Step 12: Track Support Section Assembly

29. Take out the 4-foot Track Support Section (QF09318-02) from Box 2.

30. Take out the 2-foot Track Support Section (QF09304-02) from Box 6.

31. Step 13: Pole Coupler Assembly
    Take out 10 Pole Coupler parts (QF09341-702) from Box 5.

32. Step 14: Black Plastic Track Assembly
    Take out 4 12-foot Black Plastic Track parts (QF09318-04) from Box 3.

33. Step 15: Track Support Coupler Assembly
    Take out 4 Track Support Coupler parts (QF09318-03) from Box 4.

Frame Hardware List
Found in the inner carton in Box 4:

• Screw-M5 X 8 SKB ZN (24) – Part# QF09318-304
• Knob (2) – Part# QM11780
• Snap Button (2) – Part# QF09318-714
• Track Alignment Kit (1)
• Bungee GrabberTM Assy (4) – Part# QF00100
• Part #HG10003 (Screw Part #QF10050-If screw only needed later)
• M6 Screw w/ Spacer (16) – Part# QF09341-03 (12 pre-installed to table assemblies, 4 more used on side arm height tubes)
• Screw-M8 X 16 SBHCS w/Flange (36) – Part# QF09318-07
• Pole Coupler Screw (40) M10 X 20M SKS – Part# QM11735
• Retainer-Locking Track Ext (4) – Part# QF09341-113 (includes screw, cap, and wedge as shown)

FAQ

• Q: What should I do if some items are missing from the delivery?
  A: If you find you are missing any items, please contact your retailer.

• Q: Can I use the frame with a 10-foot table?
  A: Yes, the frame includes a 4-foot table section and a 2-foot table section that can be combined to create a 10-foot frame.

• Q: Do I need to cut the 12-foot tracks for the 10-foot frame?
  A: Yes, you will need to cut the 12-foot tracks down to 10-foot length for the 10-foot frame.

What’s Included

Your frame should have been delivered in seven separate boxes. Upon opening, please check immediately to see if you have received the items listed in the Parts and Hardware lists found on pages 2, 3, 4 and 5.

If you find you are missing any items, please contact your retailer.

Frame Parts List

Frame Hardware List

Frame Box Contents

12-foot Frame

• Box 1 (qty 1)
  • 11 1/2-foot leader set (qty 1)
• Box 2 (qty 3)
  • Table Assembly – 4 feet (qty 1)
  • Pole Sections – 4 feet (qty 5)
• Box 3 (qty 1)
  • Leg Assembly, Right (qty 1)
  • Leg Assembly, Left (qty 1)
  • Track Insert (qty 4)
• Box 4 (qty 1)
  • Middle Leg (qty 2)
  • Inner Carton (qty 1): includes plastic parts, screws, and tools
• Box 5 (qty 1)
  • Table Frame Coupler (qty 4)
  • Pole Coupler (qty 10)
  • Connector Arm – Left (qty 1)
  • Connector Arm – Right (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Left (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Right (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Left Front (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Right Front (qty 1)
  • Brace, Corner (qty 2)
  • Brace, Corner Mirrored (qty 2)
  • Tube, Side Arm Height (qty 4)

10-foot Frame

• Box 1 (qty 1)
  • 9 1/2-foot leader set (qty 1)
• Box 2 (qty 2)
  • Table Assembly – 4 feet (qty 1)
  • Pole Sections – 4 feet (qty 5)
• Box 3 (qty 1)
  • Leg Assembly, Right (qty 1)
  • Leg Assembly, Left (qty 1)
  • Track Insert (qty 4)
• Box 4 (qty 1)
  • Middle Leg (qty 2)
  • Inner Carton (qty 1): includes plastic parts, screws, and tools
• Box 5 (qty 1)
  • Table Frame Coupler (qty 4)
  • Pole Coupler (qty 10)
  • Connector Arm – Left (qty 1)
  • Connector Arm – Right (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Left (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Right (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Left Front (qty 1)
  • Side Arm – Right Front (qty 1)
  • Brace, Corner (qty 2)
  • Brace, Corner Mirrored (qty 2)
  • Tube, Side Arm Height (qty 4)
• Box 6 (qty 1)
  • Table Assembly – 2 feet (qty 1)
  • Pole Sections – 2 feet (qty 5)

Assembly Instruction

Step 1: End Leg Assembly

NOTE:
Assembly will be easier if all connections are tightened lightly at first (called finger-tightening), as instructed while assembling the frame. Tighten with tools wrench only when instructed.

Why is this important?
If you tighten as you go, you may have trouble getting all the parts to align properly.

NOTE:
Make sure the mounting tabs are on the inside so they can attach to the table section assembly before proceeding. (Fig. 1-1)

Parts Needed

• 1 – right side leg assembly
• 1 – left side leg assembly
• 4 – leveling feet

Tools Required
16mm Wrench

1. Screw two (2) levelling feet about halfway into the bottom of the left side leg, as shown in Fig. 1-1. This makes it easier to adjust them up or down for levelling later on.
2. Repeat Steps 1-1 for the right side leg.

Step 2: Table Assembly

Parts Needed
3 – table section

• 12-foot: three 4-foot sections
• 10-foot: two 4-foot sections one 2-foot section

Tools Required
5mm Hex Tool (provided)

• NOTE: For this step, a carpeted surface is recommended for the protection of your floor and frame.
• If you are working on a hard surface (such as tile, hardwood, or concrete), cover the surface with a blanket or rug.
  NOTE: Skip Steps 2 and 3 if you are setting the frame up at four feet. The 12-foot frame uses a 4-foot centre/middle table section. The 10-foot frame uses a 2-foot centre/middle table section.

Prepare the three table sections by removing the two screws with spacer assemblies from each track support. Set the track supports and screws with spacer assemblies aside. These will be reinstalled in Step 5 (see Fig. 5-5). These were assembled on the table temporarily to protect them during shipping.

Parts Needed
3 – table section

• 12-foot: three 4-foot sections
• 10-foot: two 4-foot sections one 2-foot section
• 4 – table frame coupler
• 16 – Screw-M8 x 16mm SKS

Tools Required
4mm Hex Tool (provided)

• NOTE: For this step, a carpeted surface is recommended to protect your floor and frame.
• If you are working on a hard surface (such as tile, hardwood, or concrete), cover the surface with a blanket or rug.
• NOTE: Skip Steps 2 and 3 if you are setting the frame up at four feet. The 12-foot frame uses a 4-foot centre/middle table section. The 10-foot frame uses a 2-foot centre/middle table section.

NOTE: Remember to lightly tighten all screws first. Once all are in place, you may fully tighten them as instructed.

• 12 foot: Start with two 4-foot table sections upside-down on the floor end to end. 10-foot: start with one 2-foot and one 4-foot table section upside-down on the floor, end to end (as shown in Fig. 2-2). Join the sections together by placing a table frame coupler halfway into each side of the middle section, lining up the flats on the coupler with the holes in the section. Place an M8 X 16 screw into the two holes and lightly tighten the screws onto the coupler flats. Repeat this process for the two holes on the other side of the section.

• Slide the outside section onto the two couplers until the two table sections make good contact with each other on both sides without any gap.

• Check that the holes in the section align with the flats on the coupler on both sides of the section.

• Place an M8 X 16 screw into the two holes and lightly tighten the screws onto the coupler flats. Repeat this process for the two holes on the other side of the section.

• Check that the table sections are as close together as possible to remove any gaps.

• Using the 4mm Hex Tool, fully tighten the four screws on each table frame coupler.

• Repeat Steps 2-2 through 2-7 to add the remaining 4-foot section.
  Important: For the 10-foot frame, the 2-foot section goes in the centre.

• All 16 coupler screws should now be fully tightened.

Step 3: Middle Leg Assembly

NOTE:
If instructions were carefully followed in Section 2, the gap between the table sections where the sections meet should be minimal. The middle legs’ mounting plate holes should align properly. Check to ensure that all table frame coupler screws are tightened before tightening the four middle leg screws.

Parts Needed

• 1 – table assembly
• 2 – middle legs
• 4 – leveling feet
• 8 – M8 x 16mm SBHCS

Tools Required
5mm Hex Tool (provided)

1. Install two (2) levelling feet in and then 1/2 turn out.
   NOTE: This will ensure the two middle legs will not be too high to start with. The levelling feet can be easily turned down to the floor as needed when levelling the frame later on.

2. Place the middle leg assembly over two joined table sections, aligning the mounting plate with the threaded inserts in the table sections. Attach the middle leg assembly using four (4) M8 x 16mm SBHCS.
   NOTE: The direction the height adjustment levers face on the middle legs determines the back of the frame in this step.

3. Fully tighten the four (4) screws.

4. Repeat Steps 3-1 through 3-3 to attach the remaining middle leg. Be sure the middle leg assemblies are set at the lowest settings and that the height adjustment levers are facing in the same direction, toward the back of the table as shown in Fig. 3-1.

Step 4: End Leg to Table Assembly

NOTE:
Finger-tighten screws only until all screws are in place, they will be fully tightened Step 4-6.

Parts Needed

• 1 – table assembly
• 1 – right leg assembly
• 1 – left leg assembly
• 4 – corner braces (two braces and two mirrored braces) 20 – M8 x 16mm SBHCS

Tools Required

• 5mm Hex Tool (provided)
• Spirit level (not provided)

1. Set the leg assembly at the lowest setting. With the table upside down, place the leg assembly at the end of the table assembly with the mounting tabs over the tabletop as shown.

2. Align the two holes in the mounting tabs with the table assembly and place two M8 X 16 SBHC screws into the tabletop. Finger tighten only for now.
   NOTE: Make sure all height-adjustable legs are at their shortest setting before proceeding with Step 4-6.

3. Locate a corner brace and a mirrored corner brace. The corner braces should be positioned on the outside of the leg assembly tabs as shown. See (Fig. 4-2).

4. Align the holes in the corner brace with the table top and end leg and start an M8 X 16 SBHCS into each hole. Finger tighten only for now.

5. Push the leg assembly up tight against the table assembly to remove any gap and fully tighten the two tab screws into the table assembly.

6. Ensure the leg assembly is square to the table assembly and fully tighten the four screws on both corner braces.

7. Repeat Steps 4-3 through 4-6 for the right leg assembly.

8. At this point, all screws should be tightened on the table. Double-check all M8 X 16mm screws to make sure they are tightened, using the 5mm hex tool.

9. With the help of a second person rotate the table so it is upright.

10. Using a spirit level, check and adjust the frame top to be level in the location where the frame will be used. Check the levelling in the front and back and both sides. Adjust the leveling feet if needed.
    Double-check the table-top frame to ensure that it is flat at each table splice brace and not sagging or high at the joints. If no spirit level is available, check the table with the machine on the carriage and the Precision- Glide tracks after they have been installed in Step 5. Ideally, the machine will stay wherever it is placed and not roll left or right or to the front or back.

Step 5: Precision-Glide Track Assembly

• NOTE: The aluminium track support sections are cut from single sections of extruded aluminium and should align when placed end to end. However, if all directions in Step 5-4 are followed and track supports still do not align properly, try swapping track support sections, so that different ends are joining.
• NOTE: If you cannot seem to get a joint between two track supports to align properly see pages 36 and 37 about the Track Alignment Kit.

Parts Needed

• 1 – table
• 6 – track supports
  • 12 foot: 6 four foot supports
  • 10 foot: 4 four foot & 2 two foot
• 4 – track support couplers
• 24 – M5 X 8mm SBHCS
• 12 – M6 connector screw with spacer assembly.
• 4 – 12’ black plastic tracks
• 1 – Track Alignment Kit – only if needed, see note at bottom left. See pages 36, 37 for more info.

Tools Required
3mm Hex Tool (provided) 5mm Driver Hex Tool (provided)

1. Check inside the ends of the track supports for burrs or debris and remove all foreign matter from the inside.
2. Lay three track-support sections on the table upside down, with the wider lip of the sections facing toward the outside of the table (Fig. 5-1).
3. To prepare for joining one end and the centre support sections together, screw one M5 X 8mm SBHCS into the third hole from each splice end of each section to serve as a stop screw (Fig. 5-1, Fig. 5-2). Fully tighten the screw with a 3mm hex tool. This will help align the coupler properly into the two-track support sections when joined together.
4. Insert a coupler into one prepared end of one track support section up to the stop screw. Thread an M5 X 8 mm SBHCS into the first hole and lightly tighten as shown in Fig. 5-2. Insert the other end of the coupler into second prepared track support section. Hold the two adjoining track support sections tightly together thread an M5 X 8mm SBHCS into the first hole of the second track support and lightly tighten (shown in Fig. 5-2). You may need to gently rock the track support to seat the coupler. Finally, insert a second screw into the track supports, align and tighten.
5. Repeat Steps 5-3 and 5-4 to join the remaining track support section to the centre track support section to assemble one (1) track support. Once everything is aligned properly, tighten all screws firmly.
   • NOTE: The extrusions have a wider shoulder on one edge of the track. This shoulder is to be placed toward the inside of the table over the edge of the black plastic tabletop. (Fig. 5.4)
   • NOTE: The track support surfaces must be perfectly aligned; otherwise, the quilter will feel a bump and quilting stitches will be adversely impacted.
   • NOTE: for 10’ frames the tracks will need to be scored and then snapped off at 10’.
6. Insert a plastic track completely into one side of the aluminium track supports. The plastic track should slide into the track support easily. If the plastic track binds slightly, try backing the track out a little, and then pushing it further. If the plastic binds badly, check the track supports for debris, burrs, misalignment, or damage. (Fig. 5-3) In the same manner, insert a plastic track on the other side of the track support.
7. Repeat Steps 5-1 through 5-6 to make the second track.
8. Install Locking Retainer in track ends.
   • Assemble the screw through the cap and into the wedge just enough to align the wedge into the cap without expanding the cap.
   • Slide the locking retainer assembly into the end of the track extrusion and then tighten the screw firmly.
   • Do not over-tighten the screw.
   • Repeat for the other three-track extrusion ends. (Fig. 5-5, 5-6, and 5-7.)
9. Attach Tracks. Secure one assembled track to the back of the quilting frame. Line up the track support by holding it tightly against the plastic tabletop as you secure it to the frame using six (6) M6 connector screws with a spacer, as shown in Fig. 5-8. Do not tighten screws at this time. They need to be loose to accommodate adjustments in Steps 5-10. In the same manner, attach the remaining track support to the front of the frame using six (6) M6 connector screws with a spacer.
10. Align Tracks. Place the carriage on the tracks at one end of the table. Roll back and forth along the length of the table, establishing the distance between the two tracks, taking care to check that the wheels are engaging the track on both the front and the back of the carriage. Move both tracks in tandem to the back of the table as far as possible. (Slots in the tables allow this movement.) Double-check that the backtrack is straight along the back edge of the table. Fully tighten the screws in the BACK track only for now with the 5mm driver hex tool.
11. Place the machine onto the carriage and again, roll it the entire length of the frame, working the tracks into the wheels as you go. With the machine and carriage over each screw area, lightly tighten the front track support screws as you move down the table. Check the carriage to verify that it rolls smoothly and that both ends of the carriage are engaging the tracks. If you find a section of the track where the carriage rocks back and forth when moved all the way forward or back, loosen the front track support screws and adjust the front track until the carriage rolls smoothly and does not rock, then re-tighten the front-track screws.
12. Finally, fully tighten the front track to the table with the 5mm driver hex tool.
    NOTE: If you feel a bump at the joint of the track supports, see the Troubleshooting section at the end of these instructions.

Step 6: Side Arm Height Tube Assembly

Parts Needed

• 4 – side arm height tubes
• 4 – connector screw with spacer assembly

Tools Required

• 5mm Hex Tool, straight handle (provided)
• 5mm Hex Tool, L handle (provided)

NOTE:
Study the inside of the side arm height tubes to see that the mounting hole is offset, not centred. All four tubes must be mounted in the same configuration, rearward for the 20” machine and forward for the 16” and 18” machines. If one tube is mounted forward and the other side rearward the side arm assemblies will not fit onto the tubes and or not be aligned properly from one frame side to the other. They must be mounted correctly so the quilt will be straight on the frame.

1. The 20” machine has the height tube mounted rearward. The 16” and 18” machines have the height tube mounted forward.
2. Mount all four height tubes as stated above using an M6 screw with a spacer. Check that the bottom of the height tube sits flat into the hole in the horizontal tube and tightens with the 5mm straight handle hex tool and then fully with the 5mm L hex tool.

Step 7: Connector Arm to Front Pole Side Arm Assembly

Parts Needed

• 1 – front right side arm assembly
• 1 – front left side arm assembly
• 1 – rear right side arm assembly
• 1 – rear left side arm assembly
• 1 – connector arm right
• 1 – connector arm left
• 2 – shoulder screws (8MMx10 SHLD M6 THRD) 2 – knob

Tools Required

• 4mm Hex Tool (provided)

NOTE:
Normally the left pole side arm assemblies (front and back) have plugs in them from the factory. The right side comes without plugs for the latches to be installed later on.

IMPORTANT:
For more information on how to decide whether you want the handwheel and latches to be on the right or left of the frame see Step 9.

1. Identify the front left side arm assembly and the left connector arm.

2. Slide the connector arm plate with three holes into the front side arm. Align the connector plate rear hole with the rear hole inside the front side arm assembly. Carefully start the shoulder screw into
   the captive nut in the far side of the front side arm assembly.
   NOTE: You may need to wiggle the connector arm as you tighten the screw so the screw will pass through the connector plate and tighten fully into the captive nut in the front side arm assembly.

3. The front side arm assembly can be moved into two positions, one up and one down. The knob threads into a captive nut in the front side arm assembly holding it into position. When the assembly is on the correct side of the frame, the knob will be on the outside.

4. Repeat steps 7-1 through 7-3 for the front right side arm assembly. IMPORTANT: Make sure the right side is set the same as the left side, either up or down but not mixed.

Step 8: Rear Pole Side Arm to Frame Assembly

Parts Needed

• 1 – front left connecting arm assy
• 1 – front right connecting arm assy
• 1 – rear left pole side arm assy
• 1 – rear right pole side arm assy
• 8 – screw, M8 X 16
• 2 – knob
• 4 – screws, M6 connector screw with spacer
• 2 – Bungee Grabber™ Assemblies

Tools Required

• 5mm Hex Tool (provided)

• 2 Phillips Screwdriver (not provided)

NOTE:
Normally, the left pole side arm assemblies (front and back) have plugs in them from the factory. The handwheel and latch assemblies go on the unplugged frame end where you want your handwheel and ratchet assemblies.

IMPORTANT:
For more information on how to decide whether the unplugged pole bracket will be on the right or left of the frame see Step 9.

1. Identify the left (plugged) and right (unplugged) rear side arms and the left (plugged) and right (unplugged) front side arm with connector arm assemblies.
2. Lower the left rear plugged side arm onto the height tubes and place a M8 X 16 screw thru the two elongated slots into the height tubes. Set the assembly at the lowest setting for now and lightly tighten the two screws. (The final height setting will be done once the machine is on the carriage and the tracks. See Step 16.)
3. Slide the left front plugged side arm assembly with the connecting arm into the rear side arm for now. Place a M8 X 16 screw up into the two captive nuts under the arm and lightly tighten the screws. (The final front-to-back setting will be done once the machine is on the carriage on the tracks, see Step 16.)
4. Attach the two Bungee Grabber assemblies by placing a mounting screw through the assembly, the outside of the side arm bracket, and into the mounting plate. Slide the assemblies to the desired positions and fully tighten the screws with a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
5. Repeat steps 8-1 through 8-4 for right-side unplugged pole bracket assemblies.

Step 9: Ratchet-Stop Assembly

Parts Needed

• 1 – unplugged pole bracket assembly
• 4 – M6 x 48mm connector screw
• 4 – ratchet-stop
• 4 – ratchet-stop bushing
• 4 – ratchet-stop mount
• 4 – ratchet-stop holder

Tools Required

• 4mm Hex Tool (provided)

1. Decide whether you want the ratchets and handwheel to be on the left or the right side of the frame. The following instructions show how to assemble the frame with the handwheel on the right side of the frame, which is the most common setup. If you prefer the handwheel to be on the left side of the frame, see “Left Side Option” on the next page.

2. The right side arms (front and rear) come unplugged ready for the ratchet stops.
   NOTE: The instructions that follow assume that the unplugged side arm, latches, and handwheel will be used on the right side of the frame.

3. Place one ratchet-stop holder between the two metal pieces at the back of the unplugged pole bracket, with the stop nub facing inside, as shown in Fig.9-1.

4. Following the parts order in the circled detail in Fig. 9-1, thread one M6 x 48mm connector screw through
   a ratchet stop, ratchet-stop bushing, pole bracket (with ratchet-stop holder inserted) and finally into the ratchet-stop mount. Pay close attention to the orientation of the ratchet stop. Tighten with the 4mm hex tool until the rachet-stop holder nub holds the rachet stop.

5. In the same manner, attach the remaining ratchet stops and ratchet-stop holders to the front of the pole bracket, paying attention to the orientation of the ratchet stops (Fig. 9-1) to create the right pole bracket.

Left Side Option
If assembling with the handwheel and ratchets on the left side, remember that the ratchet stops and the ratchet-stop holder nubs go to the inside of the pole bracket when it is attached to the table. You will first need to remove the plugs in left side arm and install them into the right side arm. Keeping this in mind, follow Steps 9-2 through 9-5 to assemble the left pole bracket, reversing the direction of the ratchet-stop, ratchet-stop bushing, ratchet- stop holder and ratchet-stop mount shown in Fig. 9-1.

Step 10: Pole Coupler Assembly

• IMPORTANT: Be careful not to pinch your hands between pole parts while sliding them together.

• NOTE: Your frame comes with 15 pole sections, which enable you to create 5 completed pole assemblies  (the 4-foot size uses five pole sections, the 8-foot uses 10 pole sections and 5 couplers, and the 12-foot uses all 15 pole sections and all 10 couplers).

• NOTE: If you are assembling a four-foot (4-foot) frame, you may skip Step 10 and proceed to Step 11.

• NOTE: A 10-foot frame uses 10 four-foot pole sections and 5 two-foot pole sections. The two-foot sections go in the centre.

Parts Needed for 12’ Frame

• 15 pole sections

• 10 pole couplers

• 40 Screws-M10 X 20 SKS

Tools Required

5mm Hex Tool (provided)

1. Prepare the pole couplers by installing four screws upside down into the coupler with the hex tool end down until the flat screw end is flush as shown in Figure 10-1.
2. Join two 4-foot pole sections together by inserting a pole coupler into the end of one pole section halfway until the coupler screws align with the holes in the pole. Lightly tighten the two coupler screws to hold it into place.
3. Slide the next pole onto the coupler until it touches the first pole without any gap. Lightly tighten the screws in the second pole. Check for the gap between the poles and that the poles are straight and then fully tighten all four coupler screws.
4. In the same manner, add the final 4-foot pole section to the section completed in Steps 10-3 to complete one 12-foot pole assembly.
5. Using the remaining couplers and pole sections, repeat Steps 10-2 through 10-4 to complete four more 12-foot pole assemblies for a total of 5 pole assemblies.

Step 11: Pole End Assembly

Note:
The shoulder screw should be tightened on the flat of the locking retainer, not the rounded side.

Parts Needed

• 5 – pole assemblies
• 4 – retainer pole end
• 5 – pole ends
• 5 – locking retainers
• 5 – shoulder screw 8mmX16, 6mm thd
• 3 – ratchet wheels
• 2 – snap buttons
• 1 – handwheel assembly

Tools Required
4mm Hex Tool (provided)

NOTE:
The ratchet and handwheel side of the frame will use the four retainer pole ends. The non-ratchet side of the frame will use the pole ends with the locking retainers and shoulder screws.

Pole End Assembly

1. Place one pole end, one locking retainer, and one shoulder screw (Figure 11-1) on one end of all five pole assemblies. The screw should tighten down on the flat of the locking retainer, not the round side.

2. Place a retainer pole end on the other end of one pole assembly to be used as the batting bar pole.

3. Repeat the previous step for the idler pole.
   Ratchet Wheel Assembly
   NOTE:
   Two poles will have a ratchet wheel placed onto the pole before the retainer pole ends. One will be the quilt top pole and the other will be the backing pole.

4. Place a snap button into a pole and then align it with the hole in a ratchet wheel. Slide the ratchet wheel flange end with a small hole over the pole and let the snap button snap into the small hole on the ratchet wheel. The snap button keeps the ratchet wheel in position on the pole.

5. Locate the two notches in the pole end and ensure they are aligned properly to clear the snap button. Then push the pole end into the pole until it sits nicely against the ratchet wheel. Handwheel with Ratchet Wheel Assembly
   NOTE: One pole will have a handwheel assembly with a ratchet wheel. This will be the take-up pole. The pole insert for the handwheel is part of the handwheel assembly and acts as the pole end in this case.

6. Slide the ratchet wheel onto the pole end flange first. Align the hole in the ratchet wheel with the hole in the pole.

7. Place the handwheel assembly into the pole end aligning the threaded hole in the pole insert for the handwheel with the pole and ratchet wheel holes.

8. Insert an M8 X 10 Shoulder screw with 6mm threads and firmly tighten with a M4 hex tool. (Do not over-tighten.)

Step 12: Pole to Frame Assembly

Parts Needed

• 1 – frame assembly
• 1 – backing pole (A)
• 1 – quilt-top pole (B)
• 1 – take-up pole (C)
• 1 – idler pole (D)
• 1 – batting storage pole (E)

1. Place the poles on the frame as shown in Fig. 12-1.
   Note: the pole ends with locking retainers go on the side opposite of the handwheel and ratchets poles.

Step 13: Hook and Loop Strip Attachment

Parts Needed

• 1 – quilt-top pole
• 1 – backing pole
• 1 – take-up pole
• 3 – hook and loop strips

Tools Required
measuring tape or ruler (not provided) scissors (not provided) permanent marker (not provided)

Apply Hook and Loop to pole assemblies

1. Locate the centre of the pole from left to right and mark it with a permanent marker. There should be three pieces of Velco.
2. Locate the centre of the hook and loop and mark it with a permanent marker.
3. The hook and loop will be attached to 3 pole assemblies. The take-up pole, the backing pole, and the top pole. Working on one pole at a time, rotate the pole so that the holes are facing up.
4. Starting from the centre and working your way out, adhere the hook and loop to the poles. Use the holes in the poles to keep the hook and loop strip straight, making sure you are placing the hook and loop to one side of the holes, not over them. Carefully cut the adhesive paper backing at the centre of the hook and loop strip, leaving one side of the backing in place as you work on removing the other side and adhering the hook and loop to the pole. Expose the adhesive a little at a time as you work from the centre to one end, adhering the hook and loop to the pole as straight as you can as you go. Repeat with the other side of the pole.
5. Repeat step 3 with the remaining 2 pole assemblies. You’ll have 3 pole assemblies with hook and loop in total.

NOTE:

• If done as stated above, your hook and loop will be in one piece over the pole assemblies. If at any point you wish to disassemble the pole assemblies you will need to cut the hook and loops at the pole junctions to separate the poles.
• Take care to stick the hook and loop on straight. This step will determine how well your quilts load in the future. For best results use the holes in the pole as a guide when aligning the hook and loop strip.

Step 14: Attach Leaders

Parts Needed:
1- Leader Set

Attaching the leaders to the pole assem-blies
Attach a leader to each of the 3 poles with the hook and loop attached. High Position or Low Position. (See the diagrams that follow.)

1. Fold each of the leaders in half and mark the centres with a permanent marker. Place a mark on both the hook and loop edge and the hemmed edge.
2. When attaching the leaders to the hook and loop on the pole assemblies, start by aligning the centre of the leader with the centre of the pole and work toward the ends, keeping the leader as straight as possible and aligning it with the hook and loop.
3. The leader on the take-up pole at the rear of the frame attaches at the front of the pole, wraps over the top of the pole, and waterfalls to the back. This is the same for both position settings.
4. The leaders wrap differently on the two front poles (top pole and backing pole) for the 2 different settings.

High Position:
On the pole closest to the front (backing pole), attach the leader at the front of the pole and wrap it over the top of the pole so that it waterfalls to the back between the 2 poles.

Blue arrows represent the direction the fabric comes off the poles

HIGH POSITION LEADERS

On the other pole (top pole) attach the leader at the rear of the pole, and wrap it over the top of the pole so that it waterfalls to the front between the 2 poles.

Low Position:
On the 2 front poles, attach the leader at the front of the pole and wrap it over the top of the pole so that it waterfalls to the back.

LOW POSITION LEADERS

Step 15: Adjusting Side Arm Pole Bracket Position/Mode
This frame allows you to choose the loading method you prefer. You can choose which configuration you want to use for each quilt. But keep in mind, you cannot change loading configuration once you have started quilting. Position 1 provides a visual reminder of the actual quilting space and easy access to the bobbin area for oiling and bobbin changing. Position 2 is an option that allows for easy use of longer or larger templates or rulers.

Position 1, High Position
Start by putting the poles in the correct position for Position 1, upper position.

1. Grasp the pole bracket assembly under the bottom pole at the front. Remove the black knob from the outside of the side arm pole bracket. Raise the front of the side arm assembly and place the knob into the upper hole. Re-tighten the knob. Do this on both the left and right end of the frame.

   • The pole closest to you is for loading the backing fabric. Use the ratchet stop closest to the front of the frame for the backing pole.
   • The pole closest to the back of the frame is for loading the quilt top. You will use the middle ratch-et-stop on the top pole for this type of loading.
   • Once you have the poles in the correct position, disengage the ratchet-stops and completely unroll the leaders from each pole. Engage the correct ratchet-stop and roll up the leader. The ratchet stop will only let you wind in the correct direction and will ensure the leader is wrapped correctly on each pole. For Position 1, the leaders should be wrapped around the poles so that they come over the tops of the poles and fall between the poles.
   • Always engage the ratchet stop when loading your quilt so that you can be assured you are winding in the correct direction.
     High Position Setting:
     The bottom edge of the quilt top is loaded on the highest front pole. The bottom of this pole is level with the bottom of the idler pole. The quilt top fabric will come under the pole and stretch toward the back of the frame and basted to the backing and bat-ting already in place. The quilt backing will be loaded on the front pole closest to the front of the frame. The backing fabric will come over the backing pole and under the top pole and stretch toward the back of the frame, going under the idler pole to the take-up pole. This configuration allows for easy access to the bobbin area of the machine. If you will not use rulers for quilting you should choose this setting.
     HIGH POSITION
     Position 2, Low Position
     Start by putting the poles in the correct position for Position 2, down position.

2. Grasp the pole bracket assembly under the bottom pole at the front. Remove the black knob from the outside of the side arm pole bracket. Lower the front of the side arm assembly and place the knob into the lower hole. Re-tighten the knob. Do this on both the left and right end of the frame.

   • The bottom pole will be the pole on which you load the quilt top. This pole will use the ratchet stop closest to the front.
   • The top pole will be the pole you use for the backing. This pole will use the ratchet-stop furthest from the front for Position 2.
   • Once you have the poles in the correct position, disengage the ratchet stops and completely unroll the leaders from each pole. Engage the correct ratchet stop and roll up the leader. The ratchet stop will only let you wind in the correct direction and will ensure the leader is wrapped correctly on each pole.
   • Always engage the ratchet stop when loading your quilt so that you can be assured you are winding in the correct direction.
   • Once you have the poles in the correct position, disengage the ratchet stops and completely unroll the leaders from each pole. Engage the correct ratchet stop and roll up the leader. The ratchet stop will only let you wind in the correct direction and will ensure the leader is wrapped correctly on each pole.
   • Always engage the ratchet stop when loading your quilt so that you can be assured you are winding in the correct direction.

Low Position Setting:
The quilt backing is loaded on the highest front pole. The top of this pole is level with the bottom of the idler pole. The quilt backing fabric will come over the pole and stretch toward the back of the frame, going under the idler pole to the take-up pole. The quilt top will be loaded on the lower front pole, coming over the top of the pole and over the backing pole, stretching toward the back of the frame and basted to the backing and batting already in place. This is a good configuration when using larger rulers or templates while quilting. If you plan to use rulers for quilting you can choose either setting, however, the low position setting will make using larger rulers easier.

LOW POSITION

Step 16: Adjusting Side Arm Pole Bracket Height and Length
The side arm pole brackets will be adjusted for the following desired results:

• unrestrained movement
• maximum quilting area
• safe quilting area

Parts Needed

• 1 – assembled frame
• 1 – machine
• 1 – carriage

Tools Required
measuring tape or ruler (not provided)

• 5mm L hex tool
• 5mm driver hex tool

NOTE:
Before attempting to adjust the side arm pole brackets, make sure the frame is level and that the machine and carriage stay where you place them, front to back or left to right. Check this at each end, centre, and the entire length of the frame.

1. Place the carriage and machine on the frame. Roll the machine to the front and to the back to ensure it does not rock and that it rolls freely. Roll the machine and carriage left to right to the end to make sure it rolls freely. Adjust the track assemblies if necessary. See Step 5.

2. Check that the frame is level and that the machine and carriage stay wherever they are placed, front to back and left to right.

3. Role the machine and carriage to one end of the frame. Using a 5mm hex tool adjust the height of the pole side arm assemblies so there is about 1/2” (3/8” to 3/4”) clearance between the bottom of the pole and the machine surface.
   NOTE: The front and back of the side arm assembly should be the same height, and level, and not at an angle.

4. Repeat Step 16-3 at the other end of the frame. Set the height and clearance the same as on the other frame end.

5. Roll the machine and carriage to the centre of the frame and check the pole clearance while rotating the pole 3600 to make sure the pole clears the machine.
   NOTE:
   If the frame top is level and the front and back of the side arm assembly is adjusted the same height then the assembly will also be level.

6. Determine the following:

   • Position 1 (up) or Position 2 (down) mode
   • With or without ruler base. If using the ruler base, install it now.
     For more information about Position 1 and Position 2, see Step 15.

7. Loosen the two screws under the pole side arm as shown on one end of the frame and adjust the arm in or out as desired to clear the front pole, clear the ruler base, and give maximum machine movement.

8. Repeat Step 16-7 on the other end of the frame.
   NOTE: It is IMPORTANT that the pole side arms be adjusted the same on the left and right frame ends so the quilt will be straight. Measure to be sure they are set the same on both frame ends.
   NOTE: IMPORTANT Ensure the machine stops at a pole at the front, at the rear, or at the carriage end caps before the needle bar or needle bar head frame support can hit a pole.

Step 17: Bungee Clamp Assembly

Parts Needed

• 1 – frame assembly
• 4 – bungee clamps

1. Drape the bungee cord over the bracket and down into the clamp as shown (Figure 17-1).
2. Follow Step 17-1 for the other three bungee clamps.

Step 18: Adjusting Frame Height

NOTE:
It is easier to raise the frame height than to lower the frame because the legs will ratchet up when lifted. To lower the frame, a second person will be needed to release the two latches on each leg while the other lifts the frame. This is why the frame was assembled at the lowest height setting.

1. The frame can be down with no slots showing on the legs or raised in increments up to where nine sets of slots are showing. Most quilters will have three to six sets of slots showing when the height is set comfortably for them.
2. Adjust the frame height so that when standing at the front of the machine with your hands on the front handlebars, your elbows are bent at a 90-degree angle. It is recommended that you raise the frame one or two slots at a time until you reach your desired height setting as described in Steps 16-3 and 16-4.
3. Place a foot on the side leg bottom tube and lift the end of the frame up until the latches click once or twice, making sure both latches are fully engaged and in the same height slot. The end of the latch levers will be about 1.5 inches away from the leg when engaged properly and much closer if not fully engaged.
4. Repeat Steps 18-3 on the other end of the frame and then lower the two middle legs to the same slot, ensuring that the latches are fully engaged into the same slot on both side legs and the two middle legs. You may need a second person to lift the middle of the table to engage the latches fully on the middle legs.
5. Finally, double-check to make sure the frame is level. The slots on the legs are for rough height adjustment and the levellers on each leg are for fine height adjustment and levelling of the frame. See Steps 4-10, if needed, for leveling review.
6. Your frame assembly is now complete.

Using the Pole Cradles

To use the Pole Cradles when loading the quilt and quilt batting

1. After loading the quilt backing and the quilt top, release the ratchets on the quilt-top pole.
2. Pull one side of the quilt-top pole out of the pole bracket and lay it in the corresponding pole cradle. Repeat on the other side of the quilt frame.
3. Lay the quilt batting on the quilt backing, align it with the top of the backing, and smooth it in place.
4. Unroll enough of the quilt top to reach the top of the quilt backing and batting.
5. Return both sides of the quilt-top pole to the pole brackets and put the ratchets back in place.
6. Proceed with stitching the plumb line, aligning the quilt top with the plumb line, basting the top edge and sides of the quilt top and attaching the clamps.

To use the Pole Cradles when advancing the quilt

1. When you’re ready to advance your quilt, release the ratchets on the poles. Advance the quilt.
2. Pull one side of the quilt-top pole out of the pole bearing and lay it in the corresponding pole cradle. Repeat on the other side of the quilt frame.
3. Reach under the quilt top to smooth and straighten the batting.
4. Return both sides of the quilt-top pole to the pole brackets and put the ratchets back in place.
5. Proceed with smoothing and tensioning the quilt top, basting down the sides of the quilt and attaching the clamps.

Troubleshooting

Track Support Joint Problems: Bumps or Unevenness

Issue:
At times the machine user feels what they describe as a bump or restriction that prevents them from quilting smoothly as they go over the frame table joints.

Background Information:
The track supports used on the frame are aluminium extrusions made with special dies. The aluminium is pushed and pulled through the dies during the extrusion process. This can cause slight variations between batches. Very long extruded pieces are later cut to make shorter pieces used in the frame system. Extrusions are cut into 4-foot and 2-foot-long pieces. Once the extrusion is cut, it may be mated with another slightly different extrusion. The difference is typically less than the thickness of a sheet of paper.

The important surface of the track support is where the machine carriage wheels roll. A track support coupler makes the joint between two track supports stronger and aids in the alignment of this important surface where the wheels make contact. Even though the black plastic track insert covers the track support joint, it is still very important that the two-track supports be as evenly aligned as possible at the joint. If the two surfaces do not match very closely, the end user will feel a bump or resistance at this point.

Important:
The frame table tops must be even at the joints first because they provide the foundation upon which the track supports mount.

• Uneven Track Support Joints:
  If you encounter an uneven track joint with the track support coupler tightened, first try turning one track support around to see if it matches better at the joint. If this does not make any difference, try other track supports to see if they match better at the joint.

• Shimming Uneven Joints:
  If after trying the above, you still have an issue with the joint not matching well enough, a kit is available to address this issue.

• Track Alignment Kit: QF00100
  The “Track Alignment Kit” part number is QF00100. The kit consists of 8 pieces of foil tape with an adhesive and paper backing and an instruction sheet. One kit is included with this frame.

• Applying Foil Tape:
  Foil tape can be used on the top of the track support coupler on the side that is lower. This will raise the lower track support to make it level with the other track support. A piece of the supplied foil tape is placed over the top of the track support coupler on the side that is low, as shown in the drawing on the next page. It is important to begin the tape placement at the centre of the coupler.

Important:
Ensure that the coupler with shim tape is installed onto the low side of the track extrusion first. If any portion of the tape protrudes onto the high side, it will make the high side even higher, defeating the purpose of the shim tape.

Usually, only one thickness of foil tape will be needed to eliminate the issue. On the rare occasion where the mismatch is more extreme, two thicknesses of tape may be required to make both track supports even at the joint. For this reason, eight pieces of foil tape are included in the kit, two for each joint, even though only one piece may be needed.

Important:
Ensure that the coupler with shim tape is installed onto the low side of the track extrusion first. If any portion of the tape protrudes onto the high side, it will make the high side even higher, defeating the purpose of the shim tape.

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