BRAEMERE 1:32 SlurryKat 7.5m Dribble Bar User Manual
- June 16, 2024
- BRAEMERE
Table of Contents
GREAT BRITISH MODEL KITS
1:32 SlurryKat 7.5m
Dribble Bar
Instruction Manual
1:32 SlurryKat 7.5m Dribble Bar
1:32 Bailey Drop Deck Low Loader
2x Laser Cut Sheets, 1x Checker Plate Sheet, 2x Wheels and Tyres, 2x Wheel
Chocks, 2x Mudflaps, Steel Axle, Wire Rod, Straw Spacer, Decals.
TAKE CARE WHEN REMOVING PARTS FROM THE SPRUE
Acrylic plastic is brittle and should be handled with care.
Remove from sprue
This is a rough guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each
stage to make sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations
that are not in the instructions should be carried out.
Paint: Components can be painted at any time in the build, it is a case of
what suits the builder. We tend to use Automotive spray paints such as
Step One. Remove parts from the sprue, remove the plastic backing and
sand the parts.
Take care when removing parts, acrylic is a brittle material and can easily
snap with too much pressure. To remove parts from the sprue gently apply
pressure to the sprue attachment points with a craft knife until the part pops
out.
Peel the plastic off the back, this is best achieved by nicking a corner with
a craft knife and peeling. To improve the adhesion of glue and paint we
recommend sanding all parts with 220 grit or finer sand paper. This removes
any burs created in the cutting process and improves surface adhesion.
Step Two. Start by gluing the two bracket plates 7 to the main frame 5 as illustrated.
Step Three. Glue the brace 9 central underneath the two brackets 7.
Step Four. Add the macerator bracket 6, ensure the small tab sticks out of the back and the large tab is at the front.
Step Five. Glue the circle 12 onto the back of the X-frame 10 keeping it
concentric with the circular section. Then glue 13 into the engraved circle on
12. The flat section of this should be inline with the hole and perfectly
horizontal with the arms. 
Step Six. Glue the two small brackets 11 into the slots on the back of 5
as illustrated 
Step Seven. Glue the two assemblies together as shown. The X-Frame should
glue to all four brackets on 5 and the tab in the back of 6 should slot into
the tab in 10. 
Step Eight. Glue 1 to the front of the assembly (your 1 will have slots in, don’t worry.) Glue centrally and with the top inline with the fillet on 5
Step Nine. Fit 15 into the slots in 1. Cut 10 lengths on the 1mm wire approx. 10mm (1cm) long and glue them centrally in the slots on 15 as illustrated.
Step Ten. Add the diverter block as pictured. It should fit
in the hole in 10 and the flat should glue onto the edge of 1.
Step Eleven. Cut 30 5mm lengths of the 1mm wire. Glue them into each of
the holes on both sides of the macerator as pictured. This is fiddly, tweezers
are useful. Once complete glue the macerator to the plate on the frame as
shown. 
Step Twelve. Glue a gate valve to the two outlets on the diverter block.
Then glue the tube to the sideways gate valve and the port on the macerator as
illustrated. Glue the spreader plate to the other gate valve if choosing to
have one. 
Step Thirteen. Peel the backing off both sides of the thin plastic parts.
Glue the shorter one to the end of 2 as pictured butting it up to the first
notch.
Step Fourteen. Flip over and glue the small block 14 to the back of the
thin plastic as illustrated. Keep the block inline with the main length of 2
and concentric with the shape of the thin plastic. 
Step Fifteen. Cap the assembly off with the longer thing plastic part.
This glues to the back as shown, ensure the holes are concentric.
Repeat everything but mirrored to create the other arm
Step Sixteen. Cut 20 lengths of the 1mm wire at 10mm (10cm) long. Glue
them centrally in each of the notches on 2 as illustrated. 
PAINT
Step Seventeen. The model is now ready for paint. We recommend using aerosol spray paints but the model can be brush painted orairbrushed.
Halfords Grey Plastic Acrylic Primer —A good plastic primer lets the
paint get a good grip and not flake off. The halfords cans are readily
available and easy to use.
Aluminium Effect Spray Paint —The wheels and chocks have been painted
with Hycote Aluminium Effect Aerosol, but any silver paint is suitable.
Leave time between coats and ensure all paint is fully dry before final
assembly
Pick out additional details with a brush. Here we have painted the end of the
nozzle and slurrykat logo black, the gate valves bronze and sections of the
feed pipe cream to represent the flexible pipe on a real machine.
These were all done using Tamiya Acrylic Paints and a small paint brush.
Step Eighteen. Begin final assembly by adding pins to the booms. Cut a length of 1mm wire. Bend one end up, thread through the boom and the pivot, then fold the other end up and trim to size.
Step Nineteen. Now things really get fiddly! If you intend to only
display the model with the booms folded out the glue the hoses in whatever
pattern is easiest. However to allow the booms to be posed folded follow the
hose pattern on the next page.
Hoses can be cut with a pair of wire snips, scissors or a craft knife. Enough
material is provided to make one or two mistakes so don’t worry about getting
everything perfect first time. Take your time, use tweezers if you can and you
should be fine.
Step Twenty. The below diagram shows the pattern to run the hoses from
the macerator to the boom. Start from the closest hoses to the boom and work
your way outwards hose by hose. 
Macerator Number| Boom Numb| Approx Pipe Length (mm)| Macerator Number| Boom
Number| Approx Pipe Length (mm)
---|---|---|---|---|---
6a| 15| 35| 6b| 16| 35
7a| 14| 35| 7b| 17| 35
8a| 13| 30| 8b| 19| 30
9a| 12| 35| 9b| 19| 35
5a| 11| 50| 5b| 20| 50
4a| 10| 60| 4b| 21| 60
10a| 9| 70| 10b| 22| 70
3a| 8| 80| 3b| 23| 80
11a| 7| 90| 11b| 24| 90
2a| 6| 100| 2b| 25| 100
12a| 5| 110| 12b| 26| 110
1a| 4| 120| 1b| 27| 120
13a| 3| 130| 13b| 28| 130
15a| 2| 140| 15b| 29| 140
14a| 1| 150| 14b| 30| 150
To glue the pipes on we recommend dabbing a small bit of glue on the end of
each bit of wire, then pushing the pipe over the wire and letting the glue set
before repeating with the other end of the pipe. 
Step Twenty One. Add the lower pipe sections. These are cut from the red
hose. For the central section 11-20 cut 10 lengths at 17mm and for the folding
booms 1-10 and 21-30 cut 20 lengths at 20 mm. To improve the overall look of
the model cut notches into the back of each pipe as illustrated. This will let
you slide the pipe over the wire and over the notch section of the boom giving
a smooth transition from green pipe to red.
Cut the back door and valve off the britains tanker to reveal the hole inside. The dribble bar will push fit into this space allowing mounting to the tanker.
Step Twenty Two. Sit back and enjoy the model that YOU built!!!
If folding the booms take extreme care. Gently pull the boom upwards of the
body while pushing the pipe work backwards as shown in the below photos, this
allows the pipes to flex out of the way. To keep held up cut a piece of excess
wire and fold the ends as illustrated, hook around the booms when they are
butted against the support bar.
Below are some further reference photos to aid construction/assembly
Enjoy the build? There’s plenty more kits available from Braemere
Models—www.BraemereModels.co.uk
Any issues or problems please get in touch wherever you purchased the kit and
we’ll do our best to resole any issues.
Below are some further reference photos to aid construction/assembly
Enjoy the build? There’s plenty more kits available from Braemere
Models—www.BraemereModels.co.uk
Any issues or problems please get in touch wherever you purchased the kit and
we’ll do our best to resole any issues.