BRAEMERE MODELS 1:32 Bryce Suma Post Driver Instruction Manual
- June 1, 2024
- BRAEMERE MODELS
Table of Contents
GREAT BRITISH MODEL KITS
1:32 Bryce Suma Post Driver
Instruction Manual
CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER
The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before painting.
This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to
make sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations that are
not in the instructions should be carried out.Glue: Recommended glue is a good
quality super glue such as Gorilla Super Glue. I use the Blue Lid Gorilla
Super Glue which is readily available from most hardware stores including B&Q
and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond, the acrylic around the bond will snap
before the bond breaks.
Paint: The instructions will suggest the best point to paint components. A
good quality automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive
acrylic is recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be
problem free and provide a good finish to your model while being readily
available.
Read all the instructions before building to avoid any unexpected
surprises
Step 1: To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (wheels and tyres)
in a strong washing up liquid solution. Remove any flash from the resin parts
too, this is excess resin left over from the casting process where resin is
poured into the mould.
Then remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and use a knife to cut
the small tabs holding each part to the sprue, DO NOT push the parts out,
always cut them. Sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or
less. The laser cutting process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that
will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond
can be made and the surface of the plastic is improved for paint adhesion.
Sharp edges can give a thin paint application that shows as white edges in the
final paint.
It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a brittle material and
can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and
glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can
set firmly. Same applies to resin parts.
Step 2: Glue part 15 to the front of part 16 (engraved side) as illustrated
aligning the slot feature on both parts.
Glue part 17 to the other side of part 16 as illustrated
Step 3: Glue part 17 to the other side of part 16 as illustrated
Step 4: Glue part 18 on top of part 17 aligning with the matching hole in part 15. Part 20 can be glued to the bottom of the beam at this stage too.
Step 5: Glue parts 29 and 29a to the boom assembly.
Glue them on the part 17 side. 29 glues to the top of the slotted section and
29a glues above this with a 2mm space between them.
Part 36 glues across the back of the boom just below the top detailing as
illustrated.
Step 6: Glue 33 to the notch in the top of part 17, it should lean to the front of the boom.
Step 7: Parts 27 and 28 glue back to back. It is important this is done the correct way around with 27 (three holes) on top of 28 (two holes) when viewed with the large hole to the left.
Step 8: The thin 0.5mm thick, 4mm wide plastic strip glues centrally along the protruding edge of part 16 as illustrated. This creates the channel that the hammer slides up and down on so ensure there is no overrun of glue that would jam against the hammer and that it runs central up the entire length of the beam with an even overhang on each side.
Step 9: Parts 5 and 5a fit back to back, make sure to match up the engraved circles on either side.
Step 10: Glue parts 1 and 4 back to back to create the main frame.
Step 11: Glue parts 2 and 3 back to back with the engraved faces pointing outwards. Glue the two part 5 assemblies to the flat faces on the back of part 2 as illustrated, ensure the holes are on the outsides. Glue the two short gussets part 14 on the top of 5 as shown.
Step 12: Slot the frame from step 10 over the other frame as shown butting it
up to the short gussets and gluing in place.
Ensure the small notch in the part 10 assembly is pointing to the front of the
assembly, and not the holes at the rear.
Step 13: The four 8mm long pins supplied in the kit can now be glued into the holes on part 5. If you intend to fit to a 3 point linkage then leave these pins out, you may wish to cut the bracket off completely.
Step 14: If fitting to a three point linkage cut a length of the 1mm wire and slot/glue into the three grey link brackets supplied. Glue these brackets to the back of the frame, adjust to suit your chosen tractor as there is variation across manufacturers.
Step 15: Assemble the towbar bracket by gluing 24 to the front edge of 23 and
gluing 23 in the slot on the main frame, glue the printed towball to the front
of 24.
The feet 10 can now be glued to the main frame. We have sanded a 45 degree
chamfer on all four edges of the feet to look more like the real machine.
Step 16: The toolbox glues to the main frame as illustrated with its built in mounting plate locating the part. This will benefit a light sand to remove the small lines left from the printing process. Glue part 35 over the mounting bracket.
Step 17: Assemble the third foot by gluing part 11 into part 12. This will then slot into the main frame but do not glue it in place. It is removable to allow the rock spike holster to swing past it.
Step 18: Cut short lengths of the 1mm wire to make handles for the spool valves and glue in place. Then cut and bend two lengths to make the protectors, slot these in the mounting holes and secure with glue.
Step 19: The valve block glues to the front of the frame as illustrated. In the same area 2 part 8’s glue in the slots on the front of the frame to form the rock spike hinge.
Step 20: Slot the 3mm tube into the larger hole on part 32. Then glue part 34 to the other end of the tube ensuring the two smaller holes are perfectly aligned as a rod needs to run through both.
Step 21: Glue the 2mm plastic rod into the assembly 27/28 as shown.
Step 22: Glue the 4mm tube to the curved edge of part 7. You may wish to use
some scrap material to cap one end of the tube to hold the rock spike.
This completes the 9 separate assemblies ready for painting (part 25 should be
painted separately).
Step 23: Painting can be done in a number of ways. Information here is provided as a guide only. We have started by spraying everything with a coat of Halfords Grey Plastic Primer to give a good base for the paint to adhere to. Then it has had a quick dusting with Halfords Yellow Filler Primer to give a good base coat for the yellow. Don’t go to heavy with the coat or it will block the moving components.
Step 24: Leave the primer coat to cure fully before applying the top coat. The
correct paint code for Bryce Suma Yellow is RAL 1007. This can be purchased in
a spray can from your local car body supply shop.
Alternatively we have used Halfords Rover Inca Yellow which is a reasonable
match that can be found at any Halfords shop.
Leave the top coat to cure before picking out details. We have brush painted
black items like the spool block, ram and hydraulic cylinder with Tamiya X1
Gloss Black and silver parts like the cylinder rod and spool handles Tamiya
XF16 Flat Aluminium (paint part 25 black).
Step 25: Cut the decals out of the supplied sheet using a pair of scissors to
cut as close to the text as possible.
Peel the paper backing off the sticker and apply directly to the model, push
out any air bubbles to give the best finish. See the below photo for reference
of where various stickers go.
Step 26: Final assembly starts by attaching the rock spike holder to the main frame. To do this cut a short length of the 1mm wire supplied with the kit, bend one end over to make an L shape, thread the longer end through the mounting holes and bracket, then bend the other end over to lock the parts in place.
Step 27: Slide the hammer and landing pad onto the boom as pictured. Part No.25 can now be fitted to the slot at the bottom of the boom trapping the hammer on the boom, white part in picture.
Step 28: Using the thicker 1.5mm wire cut one short length and one long length, bend the end of both over to make L shapes. These will be used to hold the rock spike holder and cylinder in place.
Step 29: The short length is used in the top pivot of the hydraulic cylinder.
The Long piece first threads through the bracket on the boom, then through the
lower hydraulic cylinder mount, and through the second boom bracket. Then it
threads through the cylinder rod assembly, at the same time guide the rod into
the cylinder.
Finally the rod should land in part 25 at the bottom, trim to size as
appropriate. To hold both pins in place add a small dab of glue to the top,
the paint may need a slight touch up after the paint dries.
Step 30: Thread the rope through the top of the hammer and tie in a knot,
decide what height you will typically have the hammer at, cut the rope to
length when run tight over the top pully, then glue to the pully. Cut a
separate length to run from the two pully points on the rear of the boom.
Step 31; The final step is to thread the bolt through the pivot points on the
boom and main frame, securing with a bolt on the back.
Sit back and enjoy! This completes the build. A selection of reference photos are included below.
Enjoyed this build?
Find more kits on our website
www.braemeremodels.co.uk
Sit back and enjoy! This completes the build. A selection of reference photos are included below.
