BRAEMERE 1:32 Stewart GX 16-21 S Grain/Silage Trailer Instruction Manual
- June 16, 2024
- BRAEMERE
Table of Contents
BRAEMERE MODELS
GREAT BRITISH MODEL KITS
1:32 Stewart GX 16-21 S
Grain/Silage Trailer
Instruction Manual
CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER
The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before painting.
This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to
make sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations that are
not in the instructions should be carried out.
Glue: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super
Glue. I use the Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue which is readily available from
most hardware stores including B&Q and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond,
the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks.
Paint: The instructions will suggest the best point to paint components.
A good quality automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive
acrylic is recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be
problem free and provide a good finish to your model while being readily
available.
Read all the instructions before building to avoid any unexpected suprises
Step 1: To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (wheels and
tyres) in a strong washing up liquid solution. Remove any flash from the resin
parts too, this is excess resin left over from the casting process where resin
is poured into the mould.
Then remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or less. The laser cutting process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond can be made and the surface of the plastic is improved for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can give a thin paint application that shows as white edges in the final paint.
It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a brittle material and can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can set firmly. The same applies to any resin parts.
Step 2: Glue the chassis sides 1 and 4 back to back as pictured. Ensure they are glued opposite sides.
Step 3: Glue the side members 2, 9, 5, 6, 3 and 10 in in the order shown. Each glues into a slot on the inner chassis 4. Ensure they are glued straight and true in both directions. No.2 glues to the front of 9 with the small gap between hole and edge to the top of the chassis.
Step 4: Cap the chassis off by gluing the second set of chassis rails to the other end of the cross members
Step 5: Add the two ram members 7 to the cross member 5 ensuring they are the right way around with the pin holes aligned. Add the rear light clusters 11 into the slots on 1.
Step 6: Build the drawbar gluing the two 8 back to back. Then add the drawbar eye 34 into the slot at the front. The shoe is built out of two 35 back to back and glue to the drawbar approx. 10mm back. The drawbar glues into place on the chassis in the slot at the front and pin at the rear
Step 7: The hose holder is built out of 31 with 30 glued to the front. This then glues together by slotting the end of 31 into the hole in 2. Finally glue the printed drawbar springs to the drawbar and chassis as pictured.
This completes the chassis
Step 8: Construct the sides by gluing 12 to 13, ensure the sides glue opposite. Then add the 16mm wide backing sheets and trim as necessary.
Step 9: The floor sheet glues to the floor 15 as illustrated, the flared end fits to the rear with hinge slots and follows the bearer profile. Then glue the support triangles 17 to the bearers as pictured. They are flush with the edges and don’t glue to the thin front bearer
Step 10: Attach the sides to the floor by gluing the sides to the edges of the triangles. Ensure they are glued straight and square. The rear end should be flush and the front stick out 2mm.
Step 11: This is the trickiest step. The pointed thin plastic strip needs slotting into the gap between the floor and side. It may require trimming to fit. The pointed end aligns with the pointed end. It is easier to glue this in place with a solvent cement like Deluxe Plastic Magic or EMA Plastic Weld but can be done with other glues.
Step 12: The mudguards are made up of four parts each. Glue the angle plates 20 behind the rear member of the floor, see above circle. Then glue the main mudflap 19 to the side. It should sit on the angle of 20 and the top edge should butt up against the side. Finally glue 21 at an angle at the front and rear of each mudguard.
Step 13: Cap the front of the body off with the front plate 14. It should slot into the front with the sides sitting flush
Step 14: The ram pivots 22 glue into slots in the floor as shown with the holes pointing to the front of the body. Then add the chassis rails before and after. 16 glues in front and 23 glues behind.
Step 15: The rear hinges 18 glue into the slots in the floor 15. (They look a little bigger than in the picture)
This completes the body
Step 16: The tail gate is built by gluing the main frame 24 to the thin sheet, trim to size. Then glue the four blocks 26 to the frame as illustrated protruding 3mm out. The glue the arms 25 to the ends of those blocks.
Step 17: Check the fit in the rear body. Also add the grain hatch. The
plate 27 glues centrally on the tailgate and then the chute 28 fits around the
engraved area.
If you are building a grain trailer variant then glue the rear arch 29 onto
the top of the tailgate to complete the tail gate.
If building a grain trailer skip to paint, if building a silage trailer
continue below
Step 18: Glue the silage sides 36 and 39 to the 25mm wide thin sheets and
trim the sheets as appropriate. Using the excess tailgate thin sheet glue the
tailgate extension 40 to the sheet.
Step 19: Glue the tailgate to the short sides with the tailgate edges glued to the face of the short sides. This can then be glued to the top of the tailgate.
Step 20: Glue the silage sides to the front arch 37.
This can then be glued onto the top of the body.
Step 21: The parts are now ready for paint. I would recommend starting
with a plastic primer, I used Halfords Grey Plastic Primer. This helps bond to
the acrylic parts while also levelling everything to the same colour. Once the
primer is dry I have used an automotive paint. I have painted this trailer
using RAL5017 Blue spray paint. These can be purchased online in spray cans or
at a local car body supply shop. If you are looking for a rough Halfords
colour match Ford Monza Electric Blue is a moderate match.
Rims, grain hatch and ladder have all been painted with Hyctoe Aluminium
Effect. Any Silver paint is suitable. For the front screens I have decanted
some blue paint into a pot and used a fine brush to paint around the engraved
slots. I would recommend lightly sanding around the slots to give a surface
for the paint to bond. Don’t use a primer as it will show through the clear
sheets.
Step 26: I would recommend applying the decals next as the individual parts are easier to hold before final assembly. To apply the decals simply cut each sticker from the larger sheet using a pair of scissors. The closer you cut to the edge of the text the better the final effect will be. Then peel of the backing paper to reveal the clear decal and stick in place on the model as desired. A small drop of water over the area you are placing the decal can help with positioning. Once positioned the water can be pushed out from underneath and dried with some tissue.
The reflective tape can be cut (with a knife or scissors) from the supplied sheets of white and red in 2mm length and stuck to the model as desired using the above methods.
Step 27: With the decals in place you can begin final assembly of the
model. Start by mounting the body on the chassis using a piece of the thicker
wire folded to an L shape, thread through the hinge holes and bend at the
other end to lock inplace, again taking care not to snap any acrylic.
Step 28: Mount the rams in the body, again use the thicker wire cut two
short lengths. Locate the ram in position on the body and push a pin through
from the centre, a drop of glue on the end will then keep it in place. Repeat
for the opposite side. Then mount the rams in the chassis, repeat the process
of mounting the body with one long rod and bend the ends up.
Step 29: Finally fix the tailgate to the body. To do this use some of the
thin wire, cut and bent to an L-shape with pliers. Feed the longer end of the
L through the tailgate and body holes. Gently fold the other end of the wire
down to hold it in place and connect tailgate to body. BE CAREFUL not to apply
to much pressure as this could snap the acrylic or result in the hinge being
to tight preventing any tailgate movement. A nice loose bend is perfect, then
trim any excess wire with snips.
Step 30: Paint and glue any remaining ancillary items such as the
mudguards and mudflaps. If you have painted the mesh silage extension
separately glue this inplace. Take care when gluing painted parts as superglue
will fog the surrounding paint. A clear glue like UHU or Deluxe Materials Glue
‘n’ Glaze is better for this job.
Glue the clear panel into the front window, again don’t use super glue for
this step, it will fog the clear glazing. I have painted this with a thin
brush building up layers of paint on every other line.
Finally push the 2mm steel axle into one of the rims, thread the axle through
the holes in the chassis and push the other rim on to secure. Use the black
straw to make spacers if necessary and a little drop of glue will help keep
the rims on the axle. Check that the tyre tread is running the right way!
The model is now complete and ready for harvest, sit back and admire your
creation, great work!