BRAEMERE MODELS QM1600 Grain Silage Trailer Instruction Manual
- August 11, 2024
- BRAEMERE MODELS
Table of Contents
BRAEMERE MODELS QM1600 Grain Silage Trailer Instruction Manual
1:32 Marshall QM1600 Grain/ Silage Trailer Model Kit
CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER
The silicone release agent used in the casting process will re-act with paint,
it must be thoroughly cleaned off before painting.
This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to make
sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations that are not in
the instructions should be carried out.
Glue: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super
Glue. I use the Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue which is readily available from
most hardware stores including B&Q and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond,
the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks.
Paint: The instructions will suggest the best point to paint components. A
good quality automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive
acrylic is recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be
problem free and provide a good finish to your model while being readily
available.
Read all the instructions before building to avoid any unexpected
surprises
Step 1: To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (wheels and tyres)
in a strong washing up liquid solution. Remove any flash from the resin parts
too, this is excess resin left over from the casting process where res-in is
poured into the mould.
Then remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and use a knife to cut the small tabs holding each part to the sprue, DO NOT push the parts out, always cut them. Sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or less. The laser cutting process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond can be made and the surface of the plastic is im-proved for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can give a thin paint application that shows as white edges in the final paint.
It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a brittle material and can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can set firmly. Same applies to resin parts.
Step 2: Glue the cross members to one chassis rail part 12. At the front part 13 glues in place around the notch, then part 14 glues into the first slot. The two part 15’s go into the remaining two slots. Ensure the cross members are glued perpendicular to the chassis rail in both directions.
Step 3: Fit the other chassis rail part 12 to the other side of the cross members to create a complete chassis.
Step 4: Fit the ram/drawbar mounts parts 16. These should fit with the larger bracket pointing towards the rear of the trailer.
Step 5: Build the drawbar. Glue the two part 17’s back to back as shown, glue the tow eye part 20 into the slot at the front. Fit the two part 21’s back to back and glue these to the underside just behind the tow eye.
Step 6: Fit the drawbar in the chassis. Pin the drawbar through the mount at the rear using a small length of the thin 1mm wire provided, then glue it into the slot on the front of the chassis as illustrated. This completes the chassis.
Step 7: Start to build the body. Glue the side sheet part 1 to one of the
large thin plastic sheets aligning one side and the bottom and with the
engraved details pointing to the outside. If building a grain trailer trim the
top of the sheet off.
If building a silage trailer now glue the matching silage side part 29 in
place. Again ensure the engraved details are pointing to the outside.
Step 8: Pierce the plastic sheet where the tailgate pin is situated. This can
be done with a small drill bit, craft knife or sharp point such as a compass.
Trim any excess sheet from around the laser cut plastic parts using a craft
knife.
Repeat for the opposite side. Ensure everything is glued the opposite way
around to make a mirror part.
Step 9: Glue the floor part 4 to the thin floor sheet (the smaller of the three thin sheets). Trim any excess material with a craft knife,
Step 10: Construct the headboard by gluing part 3 on top of part 2. They should align perfectly.
Step 11: Glue one flat side assembly to the edge of the headboard assembly as illustrated, to square everything up add the floor assembly (gluing the edges of the floor to the flat of the side and headboard) .
Step 12: Cap off by gluing the other side in place aligning in the same way.
Step 13: To give the rear end rigidity fit the rear cross member part 8 as shown.
Step 14: You may wish to leave part 32 out and paint separately, otherwise it can be fitted to the front of the body now as illustrated.
Step 15: Fit the hinge point part 10, they glue directly into the slots at the rear of the floor.
Step 16: Fit the ram pivot points part 11 into the slots in the floor, they should point into the large space in the floor as illustrated.
Step 17: Glue the runners part 9 on top of the lengths on the floor to
complete the main body.
Fit the body guides part 40 to the front underside of the body as shown, they
should fit in the second rectangle back from the front of the body.
Step 18: To build the tailgate glue the main tailgate part 5 to the thin sheet of the same size, trim any excess material. If building a silage variant glue the silage top part 31 to the long thin strip. Trim the end as this will be used for the sides part 30 which also glue to the strip, trim any excess around these parts.
Step 19: Add the additional tailgate details. The grain chute is made by glueing part 28 on top of part 27, then gluing centrally on the tailgate. The rear logo plate part 7 glues in the upper space approx. 3mm from the top and central with the tailgate.
Step 20: To finish the tailgate add the two arms part 5. These glue with their edge to the back of the tailgate, flush with the top and the edge.
Step 21: If building a silage trailer fit the silage sides to the top of the tailgate as illustrated.
Step 22: Build the side guards by gluing the edges of part 24 to the face of part 23. Glue them Xmm from the edge and align with the top of part 23.
Step 23: Fit the mudguards part 18 to the outside of the body as shown. The upper edge should sit Xmm down from the top of the lower rail. The rear corner of the mudguard should be Xmm forward of the rear of the trailer.
Step 24: Glue the wings part 19 in place behind the mudguard. The notch should
sit over the lower rail and the angle is dictated by the mudguard on the
outside.
Repeat for the opposite side of the trailer.
This completes the construction work on the trailer, dry assemble to check all parts fit before beginning the painting process.
Step 25: To start the paint process we have applied a coat of Halfords Grey Plastic Primer. This has been followed by a coat of Halfords Red Primer on any parts being painted red. If you are painting a colour like blue then leave in grey primer.
Once the primer is fully dry we have applied a top coat. We have used Halfords
Mazda Classic Red to replicate Marshalls Purple Red. Leave to dry completely
before moving on.
Silver parts fitted separately are spray painted in Hycote Aluminium effect
paint, any silver paint is suitable. For silver parts mounted on the body such
as the front window and the mudguards we brush painted a matt black over the
parts, after giving them a light sand to create a key.
Once the matt black was dry we went over it with the aluminium effect paint
applied with a brush.
The final touches were to paint the wheel hubs red using a brush and paint
decanted from the spray can.
For matt black we recommend a Tamiya XF1 And for aluminium effect a Tamiya
XF16.
Step 25: To assemble the model start by cutting a length of the thicker
green 1.6mm rod. Bend the end with pilers and thread through the rear hinge
mounts and the chassis as illustrated. Bend the other end over to fix the rod
in place.
To fit the rams cut another length of 1.6mm rod. Bend the end and thread
through the chassis ram mounts along with the rams, bend the end to trap.
For the upper ram mounts you will need to cut lengths of the wire as long as
the ram mount is wide. Thread this wire in from the centre of the mount and
fix in place with a dob of glue on the end.
Glue the additional items such as wire holder, ladder and sideguards in place.
Take care if using superglue as overspill will frost the paintwork.
The front window panels can be brush painted with silver or left as they come. Remove all the plastic film before gluing in place. Avoid using superglue to fit the glazing panels. We recommend Deluxe materials Glue n Glaze but PVA or UHU are a cheaper alternative.
Sit back and enjoy! This completes the build. A selection of reference photos are included below.
Enjoyed this build?
Find more kits on our website
www.braemeremodels.co.uk
Sit back and enjoy! This completes the build. A selection of reference photos are included below.
Enjoyed this build?
Find more kits on our website
www.braemeremodels.co.uk
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