BRAEMERE MODELS Sumo Trio 3 Combination Cultivator Model Kit Instruction Manual

: September 14, 2024
: BRAEMERE MODELS

Table of Contents

Sumo Trio 3 Combination Cultivator Model Kit
Product Information
Specifications
Product Usage Instructions
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Sumo Trio 3 Combination Cultivator Model Kit

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Product Information

1:32 Sumo Trio 3 Combination Cultivator Model
Kit

Instruction Manual

1:32 Brian James Tri-Axle Car Transporter Trailer Model
Kit

Specifications

Cultivator Model Kit Scale: 1:32
Recommended Glue: Gorilla Super Glue
Recommended Paint: Automotive primer followed by automotive
acrylic

Product Usage Instructions

Step 1: Cleaning

Clean all resin parts in warm soapy water to remove any silicone
release agent used in the casting process.

Step 2: Gluing the Frame

Glue frame part 1 onto frame part 2 with the thin ends
aligned.

Step 3: Building up the Sides

Mark a line 10mm in from the end of part 5, then glue part 6
onto part 5 overlapping by 10mm. Ensure that you glue the two sides
opposite for each side of the machine.

Step 4: Fitting the Sides to the Main Frame

Fit the sides to the main frame ensuring the overlap butts up to
the thin parts at the back. Part 1 should be on top.

Step 10: Assembling the Disc Carrier

Glue the part 20’s into frame part 4 with all legs pointing
backwards. Attach the upper frame part 23 aligning with the notches
on the lower frame.

Step 11: Building the Rear Scraper Bar

Glue the part 28’s to the bar, placing one part 28 in between
each set of ribs as shown.

Step 12: Attaching Arms and Scraper Bar

Glue arms part 9 to the ends of the scraper bar. Ensure proper
alignment with the triangle of three bolt holes at the narrow end
of the arms.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What type of glue is recommended for this model kit?

A: We recommend using a good quality super glue such as Gorilla
Super Glue for assembly.

Q: What type of paint should be used for painting

components?

A: The instructions suggest using automotive primer or plastic
primer followed by automotive acrylic paint. Brands like Hycote or
Halfords are recommended for a good finish.

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1:32 Sumo Trio 3 Combination Cultivator Model Kit
Instruction Manual

1:32 Brian James Tri-Axle Car

CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER

Transporter Trailer Model Kit

The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before

painting.

This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to make sure the model is

going together correctly and any alterations that are not in the instructions should be carried out.

Glue: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super Glue. I use the Blue

Lid Gorilla Super Glue which is readily available from most hardware stores including B&Q and

Screwfix. It provides a strong bond, the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks.

Paint: The instructions will suggest the best point to paint components. A good quality

automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive acrylic is recommended. Brands

such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be problem free and provide a good finish to your model

while being readily available.

Read all the instructions before building to avoid any unexpected surprises Step 1: To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (grey) in a strong washing up liquid solution. Remove any flash from the resin parts too, this is excess resin left over from the casting process where resin is poured into the mould. Then remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and use a knife to cut the small tabs holding each part to the sprue, DO NOT push the parts out, always cut them. Sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or less. The laser cutting process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond can be made and the surface of the plastic is improved for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can give a thin paint application that shows as white edges in the final paint. It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a brittle material and can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can set firmly. Same applies to resin parts.

Step 2: Glue the frame part 1 onto the frame part 2 as pictured, the thin ends should align.

10mm 10mm

Step 3: Build up the sides. Mark a line 10mm in from the end of part 5, then glue part 6 onto part 5 overlapping by 10mm. Ensure that you glue the two sides opposite for each side of the machine.
Step 4: Fit the sides to the main frame as shown, the overlap should but up to the thin parts at the back. Take care to glue the correct way up, part 1 (with the notch in the centre) should be on the top as in the photo.

Step 5: Glue the two parts 3 back to back. Then glue the assembly into the main frame as pictured.
Step 6: Begin fitting the tines. Start with the offside tines. The first tine is identified by the long body and the slot on the right hand side as highlighted in the photo. This glues to the front beam and wraps around the side profile as pictured.

Step 7: Now fit the nearside tine, this time it has a short body and is notched on the left hand side. Again glue to the front beam and slot it around the side profile.
Step 8: Fit the next two tines, a long body tine glues to the nearside, glue it close up to the inner beam as pictured. Repeat for the off side but using a short body tine.
Step 9: Finally fit the last two tine, these glue up against the notches in the front beam. A short body on the nearside and a long body on the offside.

Step 10: The disc carrier can now be assembled. Glue the 12 part 20’s into the frame part 4. All the legs should point backwards, the first row pointing to the left and the second pointing right as in the photo. Glue the upper frame part 23 to the top, aligning the centre beam with the notches on the lower frame. Set aside until ready to paint.
Step 11: Build the rear scraper bar. Glue the 11 part 28’s to the bar. Glue one part 28 in between each set of ribs as pictured.
Step 12: Glue the two arms part 9 to the ends of the scraper bar. The bar should glue behind the triangle of three bolt holes at the narrow end of the arms. To ensure the bar sits correctly we recommend gluing while set up with the roller and frame as pictured. Otherwise the arms may not be level when glued. You can glue the jack legs on now or leave off and add after painting.

Step 13: Fit the linkage. If fitting to a realistic three point linkage then glue a small length of wire into the three linkage brackets. Then glue the large bracket to the top of the frame. Then measure out the location of the other two brackets based on your tractor. Here the brackets are mounted low and spaced at 27mm centres to fit a UH Case Puma. If fitting to a Britian’s Style linkage cut four 6mm lengths of the thicker 1.6mm wire. Glue these lengths into the holes in the two part 27’s. Ensure they stick out on opposite sides. Then mount the part 27’s in place of the printed brackets. Space out depending on the linkage of the tractor.
Step 14: Ignore the paint. Glue the small lifting eye bracket on the 0.5mm plastic sheet to the frame as shown.

Step 15: For the next step we recommend painting some parts before assembly. It can be assembled then painted but it will be difficult to get good paint coverage. To remove the discs from their sprue place in hot/boiling water, allow to soften then pull off the sprues, this will help prevent snapping the brittle thin resin. Allow to dry then paint the disc frame and all the discs. We have done this by first spraying with Halfords Grey Plastic Primer, then spraying them with Halfords Matt Black paint.
Step 16: Once painted the discs can be assembled. Cut 12 8mm lengths of the thinner 1mm wire. Glue each wire into one of the discs with a long boss in the centre. Thread the disc through the hole in the disc hanger, and fix the assembly in place by gluing one of the shallow boss discs to the other side as illustrated. Repeat the process for all 12 hangers/ 24 discs. The first row of discs should have the outer of the dome to the left and the second row to the right. Check the below photos to get the orientation correct.

Step 17: The model is now ready for paint. We recommend painting in the following way. Components to be painted red are painted with Halfords Red Plastic Primer (they can also be painted with grey plastic primer followed by a normal red primer). The remaining parts to be painted black (the rolls) are painted in grey plastic primer. For a top coat Halfords Toolbox Red is used along with the matt black used on the discs. This is left to dry for a day or two before continuing. Once dry the additional details are brush painted. Tamiya XF1 matt black is brush painted onto all the components that will be black or silver. This includes the tine legs, hydraulic cylinders, jack legs and scraper parts. For the silver parts Tamiya XF16 flat aluminium is brushed over the matt black coat. Pins are painted with a small dab of silver on a paint brush.

Step 18: The side skirts can now be fitted. Start by cutting 8 5mm lengths of 1mm wire. Glue the washers part 30 to one end of each wire. Paint the washer black. Paint the four drop links (0.5mm plastic sheet) silver. Mount the drop links to the side skirts by threading the pin through the drop link then gluing the pin into the side skirt. Repeat this process but with the pins in the opposite direction to mount to the frame. Repeat the hole process but mirrored to fit the other side.
Step 19: The scraper bar/roller can now be fitted. Align the pivot holes and thread a length of 1mm rod into the hole. Bend up both ends to hold the wire in place. The roller is fixed in place by cutting a length of 1.6mm wire and gluing it into either end of the roller whilst aligned with the frame. Trim wire flush with the frame.

Step 20: Glue the discs into place under the frame as illustrated. The frame should fit snug side to side. It should be mounted with approx. 4mm sticking out beyond the back of the main frame so as not to clash with the tines or the roller.
Step 21: To hold the roller frame in place fold two lengths of 1mm wire to slot into the two holes top and bottom of the roller pivot point, bend over the back to hold in place and paint red. Repeat on the other side.

Step 22: Finally apply the decals. Cut the decals from the sheet using scissors, peel away the backing paper and stick directly to the model, a splash of water will allow you to position the decal when on the surface. Dab the water away with paper towel to adhere the decal. The below photos demonstrate where decals can be mounted. This completes the model, sit back and enjoy what you have built!