Woodpeckers Coping Sled Iron Grip Instructions

Woodpeckers Coping Sled Iron Grip Instructions

DIAGRAM (QTY) PART NAME NUMBER

1.  Base
2. (1) Top Plate
3. (1) 16″ Fence
4. (1) Acrylic Guide
5. (1) Clamp Beam Assembly with Handles
6. (2) Top Track, 12″

HARDWARE BAG A
(2) Registration Pin
(5) Flat Head Screw, 1/4-20 x 5/8″
(5) Oval Nuts, 1/4-20

HARDWARE BAG B

4. Flat Head Machine Screw, 1/4-20 x 2-3/4″
   (4) Spacer Tube
   (5) Oval Nut, 1/4-20

DIAGRAM (QTY) PART NAME NUMBER HARDWARE BAG C

(2) Hex Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1″
(2) Star Knob
(2) Nylon Washer, 1/4 x 3/4″

HARDWARE BAG D

2. Hex Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1-1/4″
   (2) Handle Knob

HARDWARE BAG E

(2) Thick Washers SAE 10 (Gold)
(2) Steel Fender Washer, 1/4 x 1.25″
(2) Flat Head Screw, 1/4-20 x 1-1/2″
(2) Kept Nut 1/4-20
(2) Nylon Washer, 1/4 x 1-3/8″
(2) Star Knob

Scan the QR code above to watch the video or visit woodpeck.com under the video tab towards the bottom of the product page.

[ https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping- sled-3029.html](https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html)

ASSEMBLING THE COPING SLED

AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED:

• (D Base (1)
• (3)16″ Fence (1)
• HARDWARE BAGA
  Registration Pin (2)
  Flat Head Screw, 1/4-20 x 5/8″ (5)
  Oval Nut, 1/4-20 (5)

1. Insert the (5) 5/8” Flat Head Screws up through the bottom of the Base (D then loosely start the (5) Oval Nuts. Do not tighten. Figure A.

2. Slide the 16″ Fence ® onto the Oval Nuts with the single track side facing down. Figure A.
   

3. Insert the (2) Registration Pins into the holes behind the 16″ Fence. Align the 16″ Fence flush with the right edge of the Base and pull it back against the Registration Pins. Firmly tighten the Flat Head Screws. Remove the Registration Pins. Figure
   B.
   
   AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED:

   • HARDWARE BAG E
   • Thick Washers SAE 10 (Gold) (2)
   • Flat Head Screw, 1/4-20 x 1-1/2″ (2)
   • Kept Nut 1/4-20 (2)

4. Insert the (2) Flat Head Screws up through the bottom of the Base in the two center spaced holes. Add a Thick Washer SAE and a Kept Nut to each then tighten. Figure C.
   
   AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED:

   • HARDWARE BAG B
   • Flat Head Machine Screw, 1/4-20 x 2-3/4″ (4)
   • Spacer Tube (4) Oval Nut, 1/4-20 (4)

5. Insert the (4) Flat Head Screws up through the bottom of the Base in the four corner holes. From the top add Spacer Tubes and Oval Nuts onto each of the Flat Head Screws. Do not tighten. Leave an approximate 1/8″ gap between the top of the Spacer Tube and the bottom of the Oval Nut. Figure D.
   
   AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED:

   •  2Top Plate
   • HARDWARE BAG E
   • Steel Fender Washer, 1/4 x 1.25″ (2)
   • Nylon Washer, 1/4 x 1-3/8″ (2)
   • @ Star Knob (2)

6. Position the Top Plate @ so the two front Spacer Tube Assemblies and Top Plate Screw Assemblies stick up through the slots.
   NOTE: The Top Plate can only be installed one way. Rotate it 180° if it won’t drop on.

7. Once the Top Plate is in place, slip a Nylon Washer and a Steel Fender Washer onto each of the Top Plate Screw Assemblies, then install a Star Knob (D onto each. Figure E.
   
   

8.  Slide one Top Track (® onto the Spacer Tube Assemblies with the single track side facing down until both Oval Nuts are captured in the slot of the ‘fr_gl; Ea”gk and the back end is flush with the back edge of the Base. Figures F-1 & F
   
   

9. Firmly tighten both Flat Head Screws in the Spacer Tube Assembly from underneath the Base.

10. Repeat steps 8 & 9 for the second Top Track.
    AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED:

    • (3 Clamp Beam Assembly with Handles
    • HARDWARE BAG D
    • Hex Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1-1/4″ (2)
    • (®Handle Knob (2)

11. Slide the head of the Hex Bolt into the outside slot of each Top Track. Figure G.
    
    

12. Set the Clamp Beam Assembly 5 in place so the Hex Bolts stick up  through the two holes in the Clamp Beam Assembly. Figure G.

13. Screw the Handle Knobs 8 onto each Hex Bolt to tighten the Clamp Beam Assembly in place.
    NOTE: Generally the Clamp Beam Assembly will be positioned over the center of the work piece. For now, position it approximately 2″ in front of the Fence.
    AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED:

    • (®Acrylic Guide * HARDWARE BAG C
    • Hex Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1″ (2)
    • 7 Star Knob (2)
    • Nylon Washer, 1/4 x 3/4″ (2)

14. On each end, slide a Hex Bolt head into the outside slot on the front Top Track. Set the Acrylic Guide @ in place so that the two Hex Bolts protrude up through the slots of the Acrylic Guide. Figure H.
    

15. 11.Place one Nylon Washer onto each Hex Bolt and loosely thread on the two Star Knobs @ . Figure H.

16. 12.Position the Acrylic Guide so that the front and rear edge are gtpéjrr%gnbastely aligned with the ends of the Top Track and then tighten the Stare Knobs

EXTENDED CAPACITY 15″ COPING SLED GUIDE
Optional accessory, sold separately When making through-temons or other deep cross-grain cuts, you may need more offset than the standard guide offers maximum 1 inch The optional Deep Cut Coping Sled Guide increases your clearance to 3 inches. It’s simple to change from the standard guide to the Deep Cut Guide just two knobs. Like the standard guide, you’re following the fence not a miter track, so the fence needs only to be adjusted for depth of cut and not kept parallel to the miter slot. C You can find the Deep Cut Coping Sled Guide on our website woodpeck.com -or-call Customer Service at 800-752-0725 to order.

SETTING THE ACRYLIC GUIDE

Setting the Acrylic Guide only takes a minute, but is vital for proper : operation,

1. First loosen the two Star Knobs (D which secure the Acrylic Guide & to the Top Track ®.

2. Insert a 3/4″ scrap wood spacer between the Base (D and your router fence. The spacer may need to be thicker if the router bit would otherwise contact the Base. Figure I. Router Fence
   

3. While holding the Coping Sled up against the wood spacer and the router fence, slide the Acrylic Guide up against the router fence and tighten the two Star Knobs.
   NOTE: The Acrylic Guide should be the only part of the Coping Sled that runs against the router fence during use. It needs to be adjusted to keep the Base from contacting the router bit. At no time should the Base come in contact with the router fence or the router bit. For larger cutters, it may be necessary to use a wider spacer.

MORE ABOUT YOUR COPING SLED…

Figure J

• The Coping Sled is designed to provide the support and control  necessary to route across the end grain of a board. This is a 2 necessary procedure for making raised panel doors as well as tenon cuts. In most cases, the board will be less than 5″  wide. With this small amount of surface area, it would be nearly impossible to guide the end along the router fence to safely make a profile cut without a Coping Sled.
•  The majority of force exerted on the board is torque. In otherwords as the router bit is spinning in one direction, it is trying to spin your board the opposite direction. Controlling this torque is the function of the Fence and Top Plate.
• Using the Top Plate is simple, insert the board between the Coping Sled Fence and the Top Plate. Slide the Top Plate back against the board and tighten the two Star Knobs.
• Now hold the Acrylic Guide against the router fence and slide the board in until it bottoms out against it. Position the Clamp Beam Assembly over the center of the board and tighten both hold down Clamp Beam Assembly Knobs. These should only be moderately tight. Excessive force is not needed and could lead to warping of the Base plate.

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© 2022 Woodpeckers, LLC
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WARNING!
This product can expose you to chemicals, including chromium, which is known to the State of Califomato cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm For more information go to www.P65Wamings.ca.gov

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