robbe BOO Tiny Little Fun Slope Electric Glider Instruction Manual

robbe BOO Tiny Little Fun Slope Electric Glider

PREFACE

BOO – Tiny little fun slope glider Congratulations and thank you for choosing the BOO. With a span of 800 mm and 3-axis control, the BOO is ideal for flying from the slope, sand dune or embankment. Small in size, yet designed for great fun. With its transport-friendly dimensions BOO fits easily on the parcel shelf of a car or, when dismantled, in the hand luggage on an airplane. The model promises the greatest fun in the smallest of spaces. The laser-cut wooden parts are assembled and glued in just a few simple steps using the slot together and add glue principle. Please read these instructions carefully, even if you have already built many RC models. We have given a lot of thought to detailed solutions in order to keep the construction effort as simple and low as possible without neglecting functionality. The model was developed with modern 3D CAD technology and the kit is manufactured with modern CNC technology. As a result, you can be sure that the components fit together properly and there will be no nasty surprises during the assembly! We wish you a lot of fun building your new BOO and especially afterwards when flying. PLEASE READ THIS MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU START ASSEMBLING THE MODEL.

FLIGHT INSTRUCTIONS

• Before the first flight, observe the instructions in the „Safety Instructions“ section.
• When flying the model, you should choose a day with as little wind as possible
• A large, flat area without obstacles (trees, fences power lines, etc.) is suitable for the first flights.
• Please carry out a functional test of the drive train/power set and remote control.
• After assembling the model on the airfield, check once again that all model components such as wing, tail units, wing mounts, engine, linkages, etc. are firmly and properly fastened.
• For a hand start a helper should be present, who can throw the model with enough thrust into the air.
• The start usually takes place against the wind.
• Do not stall the model near the ground
• Do not initiate tight turns in the immediate vicinity of the ground.
• Check the reactions of the model to the rudder deflections. If necessary, adjust after landing to increase or decrease the deflections accordingly.
• The minimum flight speed must be at an adequate safety altitude.
• Initiate the landing with sufficient speed

GENERAL INFORMATION

• The model is designed for the components specified by us. Unless otherwise stated, servos and other electronic components are designed for standard supply voltage. Recommended cell count for Lipo batteries also refers to standard Lipos voltage of 3.7V per cell. If you use other servos, a different motor and controller, batteries, or propellers, please make sure they fit first. In the event of deviations, corrections and adjustments must be made by yourself.
• Before starting construction, always put the servos into neutral. To do this, switch on the remote control and move the joysticks and trim buttons (save the one for the throttle) to the middle position. Connect the servos to the corresponding outputs of the receiver and supply them with a suitable power source. Please observe the connection diagram and the operating instructions of the remote control system manufacturer.
• Do not leave your model in the blazing sun or in your vehicle for long periods of time. Too high temperatures can lead to deformation/distortion of plastic parts or blistering of covering foils.
• Before the first flight, check the wing symmetry, tail unit and fuselage. All parts of the model should have the same spacing from the left and right wing or tail plane to the centre of the fuselage or the same angle.
• If necessary, rebalance the propellers if vibrations are noticeable when the motor is running up.
• Bubble formation in the covering foils normal to a certain extent due to temperature and humidity differences and can be easily eliminated with a foil iron or hairdryer.
• For models in shell construction („full GFRP/CFRP“), burrs may occur at the seams due to the production process. Carefully remove them with fine sandpaper or a file.

GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION

• Be sure to read the safety instructions carefully before operating your model.
• Always follow the procedures and settings recommended in the instructions.
• If you are using remote-controlled model aircraft, helicopters, cars or ships for the first time, we recommend that you ask an experienced model pilot for help.
• Remote-controlled models are not toys in the usual sense and may only be used and operated by young people under 14 years of age under the supervision of adults.
• Their construction and operation requires technical understanding, careful craftsmanship and safety-conscious behaviour.
• Mistakes or negligence during construction, flying or driving can result in considerable damage to property or personal injury.
• Since the manufacturer and seller have no influence on the proper construction/assembly and operation of the models, these risks are expressly pointed out and any liability is excluded.
• Propellers on aircraft and all moving parts in general pose a constant risk of injury. Avoid touching such parts at all costs.
• Note that motors and controllers can reach high temperatures during operation. Avoid touching such parts at all costs.
• Never stay in the danger area of rotating parts with electric motors with connected drive battery.
• Overcharging or incorrect charging can cause the batteries to explode. Make sure the polarity is correct.
• Protect your equipment and Models from dust, dirt and moisture. Do not expose the equipment to excessive heat, cold or vibration.
• Use only recommended chargers and charge your batteries only up to the specified charging time. Always check your equipment for damage and replace defects with original spare parts.
• Do not use equipment that has been damaged or got wet due to a fall, even if it is dry again! Either have it checked by your specialist dealer or in the Robbe Service or have it replaced. Hidden faults can occur due to wetness or a crash, which lead to a functional failure after a short operating time.
• Only the components and accessories recommended by us may be used.
• Do not make any changes to the remote control which are not described in these instructions.

SAFETY NOTE FOR MODEL OPERATION

Attention, danger of injury!

• Always keep a safe distance from your model aircraft.
• Never fly over spectators, other pilots or yourself.
• Always perform flight figures in a direction away from the pilot or spectators.
• Never endanger people or animals.
• Never fly near power lines or residential areas.
• Do not operate your model near locks or public shipping.
• Do not operate your model on public roads, motorways, paths and squares, etc., but only in approved locations.
• Do not operate the model in thunderstorms.
• Before each flight, check your remote control system for sufficient function and range.
• After flying, remove all batteries from the model.

Do not „aim“ the transmitter antenna at the model during operation. In this direction, the transmitter has the lowest radiation. The best position of the antenna is to the side of the model. Use of devices with image and/or sound recording function: If you equip your model with a video or image recording device (e.g. FPV cameras, action scams etc.) or the model is already equipped with such a device at the factory, please note that you could violate the privacy of one or more persons by using the recording function. An overflight or driving on private ground without the appropriate permission of the owner or approaching private ground can also be regarded as an invasion of privacy. You, as the operator of the model, are solely and fully responsible for your actions. In particular, all applicable legal requirements must be observed, which can be found in the roof associations or the relevant authorities. Failure to comply can result in substantial penalties.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR CONTROLLERS

• Observe the technical data of the controller.
• Observe the polarity of all connection cables.
• Avoid short circuits at all costs.
• Install or package the regulator so that it cannot come into contact with grease, oil or water.
• Effective interference suppression measures on the electric motor with, for example, interference suppression capacitors
• Ensure adequate air circulation.
• Never reach into the turning circle of the propeller during start-up Risk of injury

Dealing with model aircraft and vehicles requires technical understanding and a high level of safety awareness. Incorrect assembly, incorrect adjustment, improper use or the like can lead to personal injury or damage to property. Sudden starting of connected motors can lead to injuries due to rotating parts such as propellers. Always stay away from these rotating parts when the power source is connected. All drive components should be safely and securely mounted during a function test. Use is only permitted within the scope of the technical specification and only for RC hobby applications. Before use, check that the speed controller is compatible with your drive motor or power source. Never operate the speed controller (correct speed controller) with external power supply units. Speed controllers should always be protected from dust, moisture, vibration and other mechanical stresses. Even splash-proof or waterproof equipment should not be permanently exposed to moisture or moisture. High operating temperatures or poor cooling should be avoided. The recommended temperature range should be approximately between -5°C and +50°C. Ensure proper connection and do not cause reverse polarity which would permanently damage the speed controller. Never disconnect the device from the motor or battery during operation. Use high-quality plug systems with sufficient load capacity. Avoid strong bending or tensile stress on the connecting cables. After termination of flight or driving operation, disconnect the battery to prevent deep discharge of the battery. This would cause permanent damage. For the BEC version of the controller, check that the BEC power of the device is sufficient for the servos used. Speed controllers should be installed as far away as possible from other remote control components. We recommend carrying out a range test before operation. We recommend regular checking of the controller for function and externally visible damage. Do not continue operating the controller if you notice any damage. The connection cables must not be extended. This can lead to unwanted malfunctions. Despite existing safety and protective devices of the device, damage may occur which is not covered by warranty. The warranty also expires if changes are made to the device.

Important information:
The receiver system is powered by the built-in BEC system of the controller. For commissioning, always move the throttle stick to the „Motor off“ position and switch on the transmitter. Only then connect the battery. To switch off always disconnect the connection battery motor controller, first then turn off the transmitter. During the functional test, move the servos of the rudders to neutral position with the remote control (stick and trimming lever on the transmitter to the middle position). Please make sure to leave the throttle stick in the lowest position so that the engine does not start. For all work on to the parts of the remote control, motor or controller, follow the instructions supplied with the units. Also read the instructions of the battery and the charger carefully before commissioning. Check the engine mounting bolts in the fuselage regularly for tightness.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES

• Do not immerse the battery in water or other liquids.
• Do not heat, throw into fire or microwave.
• Do not short-circuit or charge with reversed polarity
• Do not expose, deform or throw the battery
• Do not solder directly on the battery
• Do not change or open the battery
• Only charge the battery with suitable chargers, never connect it directly to a power supply unit.
• Never charge or discharge the battery or charger on a flammable surface.
• Never leave the battery unattended during charging or discharging processes.
• Never charge or discharge the battery in direct sunlight or near heaters or fire.
• Do not use the battery in places subject to high static discharge.

All this can cause the battery to be damaged, explode or even catch fire!

• Keep the battery away from children
• Keep leaked electrolyte away from fire, as it is highly flammable and may ignite.
• The electrolyte liquid should not get into the eyes, if it does, rinse immediately with plenty of clear water and then see a doctor.
• The electrolyte liquid can also escape from clothes and other objects with a lot of water or washed off.
• Observe the safety instructions of the battery manufacturer and the charger manufacturer.

WARRANTY

Our articles are equipped with the legally required 24 months warranty. Should you wish to assert a justified warranty claim, always contact your dealer, who is responsible for the warranty and the processing. During this time, any functional defects that may occur, as well as manufacturing or other problems, will be rectified. Material defects corrected by us free of charge. Further claims, e.g. for consequential damages, are excluded. The transport to us must be free, the return transport to you is also free. Freight collect shipments cannot be accepted. We cannot accept liability for transport damage and loss of your consignment. We recommend ap-propriate insurance.

To process your warranty claims, the following requirements must be met:

• Attach the proof of purchase (receipt) to your shipment.
• The units have been operated in accordance with the operating instructions.
• Only recommended power sources and original robbe accessories have been used.
• There is no moisture damage, external interference, reverse polarity, overloading or mechanical damage.
• Attach relevant information for finding the fault or defect.

DISCLAIMER

Robbe Modellsport cannot monitor compliance with the assembly and operating instructions or the conditions and methods for installation, operation, use and maintenance of the model components.Therefore, we accept no liability for losses, damage or costs arising from or in any way connected with incorrect use and operation.To the extent permitted by law, the obligation to pay damages, irrespective of the legal grounds, shall be limited directly to the invoice value of the claims arising from the event causing the damage.

INSURANCE
Ground-based models are usually covered by personal liability insurance. Additional insurance or extension is required for aircraft models. Check your insurance policy (private liability) and take out suitable insurance if neces- sary.

CONFORMITY
Robbe Modellsport hereby declares that this device complies with the essential requirements and other relevant regulations of the corresponding CE directives. The original declaration of conformity can be found on the Internet at www.robbe.com, in the detailed product view of the respective device description or on request. This product can be operated in all EU countries.

DISPOSAL

The sign of a crossed-out dustbin means that the product is not allowed to be disposed of with normal household waste due to certain ingredients. Dispose of the device at your local municipal collection point or recycling centre. This applies to all countries of the European Union and other European countries with a separate collection system.

BOX CONTENT – NEEDED ACCESSORIES

TECHNICAL DATA

Caution:
High-resolution images of the construction steps (PDF: „High-resolu-tion images of the construction steps“) are available for download on the product page at: www.robbe.com

GENERAL ABOUT THE MODEL

The construction of BOO can be built quickly and easily thanks to CNC-laser cut parts. With the help of these building instructions, the BOO is assembled without the need of a plan. The construction is quick and easy and can be carried out over a few evenings. The two halves of the wing and the V-tail are assembled directly on the building board. The final assembly takes place on a building jig which is included in the kit. This ensures all components are precisely aligned with one another. When finished the 2-piece wing and the V-tail can easily be removed. This creates a very transport-friendly model.

Recommended R/C equipment:

• 4-channel transmitter, with dual rates and expo
• Micro receiver with normal range (e.g. JETI R5L / Futaba R2106GF)
• Sub-Micro Servos, 8 mm thick, 4x DIGITAL HV Servo 7g/approx 20x8x18 mm
• Battery, LiPo 2S, 200 – 400 mAh, 7.4V (e.g. Robbe Ro-Power # 7317 / 7313)

Materials needed:

• Film for covering, approx. 60 cm (e.g. ORALIGHT ® iron-on film)
• Lead approx. 10 g (for CG adjustment)

Tools required:

• Building board
• Sharp knife
• Side cutters
• 100 and 240 grit sandpaper
• Sanding block
• White glue
• Robbe Super Glue „Speed“ (thin and medium # 5062 / 5063)
• Aktivatorspray # 5017
• Glueholder # 50610
• Epoxy adhesive
• Files (square file 3mm, fine flat file)
• Clamps and weights to weigh down
• Set square, 90° angle
• Drill: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 6mm
• Ruder deflection indicator „ROBBE“ „M“
• M3 Tap
• Soldering iron, solder
• Thin double-sided adhesive tape
• Masking tape
• Phillips screwdriver
• Film iron
• Hot-melt adhesive

INTRODUCTION

Wooden components

• 1 # 1 building jig 3 mm plywood
• 1 # 2 building jig 3 mm plywood
• 1 # 3 building jig baseplate 3 mm plywood
• 1 # 4 V-tail 2 mm liteply
• 1 # 5 ribs, servo mount 2 mm plywood
• 1 # 6 ruddervators 2 mm balsa
• 1 # 7 wing tips 6 mm balsa
• 2 # 8 Aileron planking 0.5 mm plywood
• 1 # 9 Casting ailerons 0.5 mm plywood
• 1 # 11 ribs 0.5 mm plywood
• 1 # 12 ribs 0.5 mm plywood
• 1 # 13 ribs 0.5 mm plywood
• 1 # 14 ribs 0.5 mm plywood
  • FLZ – aircraft plywood

Individual parts

• 1 GRP fuselage with carbon fibre canopy
• 4 Carbon fibre rectangular profile spars 0.6 x 5 mm 420 mm
• 3 Carbon fibre rod 1 mm 460 mm
• 2 Bowden cable outer 400 mm
• 2 Spring steel 0.6 mm 500 mm
• 1 Carbon fibre tube 6mm OD 200 mm
• 1 Carbon fibre tube 5mm OD 55 mm
• 1 GRP wing joiner
• 2 HPL V-tail mounting (outside)
• 3 HPL V-tail mounting (inside)
• 1 Carbon fibre tail skid 1.5 mm
• 2 GRP Y-connector for V-tail 2 mm
• 4 GRP joiner box webs (2 per wing) 1mm
• 4 GRP parts for wing fixing/mounting (2 parts per wing) 1 mm
• 1 Spring steel for canopy attachment 1 mm 100 mm
• 1 Kevlar cord 60 cm
• 2 Aluminium ruddervator control horns
• 2 Ball joint and ball head clevis
• 2 Solder connectors
• 1 Shrink tubing 30 mm
• 2 Socket head cap screws M3x8
• 2 Socket head cap screws M2x6
• 2 Nuts M2
• 1 Pine strip 2x5x300 mm

CAUTION! carry out this work with care, as it is essential for safe operation at a later date. Incorrect installation can lead to personal injury and damage to property.

WING JOINER BOX

• Cover the building board with film or packing tape so that the components of the BOO do not stick to it with the super glue.
• Cut a 35mm length of the end of each of the 4 carbon fibre spars. The four pieces must not be sawed off from a belt, otherwise, the length is no longer sufficient for the spar. Roughen the surface with a sanding block to remove the separating layer left from the manufacturing process. The four wooden strips can be found on board 9.
• Apply a thin layer of Vaseline to the GRP wing joiner to prevent it from sticking to the joiner box as it is glued together. Remove the plywood strips from the laser cut sheet and place one in front and one behind the wing joiner. A carbon fibre strip is then placed on the top and bottom. Now slide two wooden clips onto the assembly. The rounding points upwards. Line up the four strips at one end. Make sure that you do not get any Vaseline on the gluing areas.
• First, the parts are tacked together with hot glue, afterwards, the connector must be pulled out. Now glue the joints together with a drop of medium viscosity superglue. After the superglue has hardened, carefully pull the joiner out of the joiner box and remove the two wooden clips. Now glue the box thoroughly with thin superglue. When dry, push the wing joiner back into the joiner box. You may have to clean the inner corners of the joiner box with a fine square file to remove excess superglue. Sand the outside of the joiner box to remove any remains of the two wooden clamps.
• Now wrap the joiner box with the Kevlar thread. To do this, glue the thread at one end of the joiner and wrap the thread tightly around the joiner box to the other end. Secure the end of the thread again with a drop of superglue. Make sure that the thread is spaced out evenly and does not overlap; there is very little space between the two spars. Now pull the wing joiner out of the box again and soak the Kevlar thread with superglue. The length of the plug-in box must later be adapted to the ribs in the wing. Repeat the process for the other wing joiner box.
• For each wing separate the root ribs R0 to R2 and the 0.5mm ply tabs from the laser cut ply sheet. Remove the four GRP fillets from the GRP boards. Sand off the retaining bars around the edges and remove the surface finish left after manufacture. Note that ribs R1 and R2 each consist of a front and rear part. Check without glue whether the GRP or wooden knots can be pushed into the individual slots without any problems. If necessary, rework carefully.

ROOT RIB

GEODETIC RIBS AND LEADING EDGE

• Glue the root ribs R0, R1 and R2 to each other with white glue. Glue in the plywood tab (long tongue) at the rear of the assembly to align the parts. Use pliers to tuck the wooden knot into the ribs. Align the ribs at the leading edge with a small scrap of plywood. The two GRP fillets are also glued into the ribs with superglue. Clamp the three ribs together while they dry. Be sure you are building a left and right root rib!!
• Separate the lower aileron sheeting from the plywood and sand off the retaining bars. Place the root rib on the sheeting. There is a shoulder at the back of the root rib, the front edge of the sheeting must lie against this shoulder. Align the two components exactly at right angles to each other and glue them with thin superglue.
• Sand a carbon fibre spar to remove release agent left from production. Stick the spar to the building board with a few pieces of thin double-sided adhesive tape. Place the root rib and aileron sheeting over the carbon fibre spar. The spar should fit up against R0 and between the R1 and R2 sections. The root rib must be at right angles to the spar. Check the distance between the spar and sheeting at the root rib and at the wing tip. The spar and planking must be parallel. When everything is exactly aligned, tape the lower sheeting to the building board with several small pieces of masking tape along the trailing edge. Separate the ribs R3 to R27 and the two aileron sub ribs R28 from the laser cut sheets and sand the retaining bars flush.

GEODETIC RIBS AND LEADING EDGE

• Separate out the upper and lower ribs. You can recognize the upper ribs by the semi-circular bulges at the trailing edge. Now sort each set into number order. Slot the first ribs R3 to R10 together. The upper ribs are put on the lower ones. Now slide these ribs onto the GRP fillets and the ply tab in the root rib. Working along the wing to the tip slot the rest of the ribs together, alternating between an upper and a lower rib. No glue is added yet!
• The final rib is R23 has two wooden tabs glued in. The wooden knots are reinserted with flat-nose pliers. The slit is in the back knot. Make sure you have a left and a right!
• Insert the leading edge into the ribs. The kit contains a template to help slide the leading edge completely into the ribs and align the components ready for gluing. When the leading edge and all of the ribs are properly slotted together, align rib R23 with the sloping end of the lower aileron sheeting. This brings the wing to the exact length. Check that all ribs are completely in contact with the building board and that the spar is properly seated. When happy glue the ribs to the lower aileron sheeting, the leading edge, the ply, and GRP webs, and at the crossing points. Use superglue for this.

UPPER AILERON SHEETING

• Glue the two sub ribs R28 to the lower aileron sheeting with a small gap between. Orientate yourself on the laser cut line. You need to adjust the front of the two ribs to fit against ribs R23 and R27.
• Using side cutters snip off the bulges at the trailing edges of the upper ribs and sand the remaining protrusions flat with a sanding block.
• Fill in the first rib field on the root rib trailing edge above the lower aileron sheeting with the triangular piece of balsa and glue it in place with white glue. As soon as the glue has dried, you can sand the block flush.

WING TIP

• Separate a wing tip from the balsa sheet and sand the edges smooth. Line the tip up with the wing and mark where the lower spar will sit. The wooden knots are slightly above the rib R23 and should engage in the edge arch. Therefore, note that the edge curve not only comes closer to the surface, but that the position also changes due to the inclined last rib. Sand a channel for the spar with a flat file or sanding block. Cut slots in the edge of the wing tip to correspond with the ply tabs that are sticking out of R23. Glue the tip to R23 and weigh down on the building board to ensure the tip stays level with the wing. When dry the lower spar can be glued with thin superglue.
• Glue the upper aileron sheeting onto the surface with white glue. Weigh down the sheeting while the glue dries and make sure that the trailing edge of the aileron is exactly straight.

UPPER WING SPAR

• If you wish, you can adjust the two root ribs to accommodate the dihedral of the wing. This would close a small gap on the underside of the wings where the roots meet. Sanding machines where the angle of half the dihedral can be set are ideal but a sanding block could also be used. Only the top of the root ribs should be sanded. The bottom edge must remain unchanged.  If you are not confident enough, we recommend skipping this stepas the gap is quite small. Adjust the lengths of the joiner boxes to fit snugly between R0 and the sloping face of R8. The joiner box lies flat on the bottom spar between R1/R2 and R8. In the next four rib fields, fill in the area between the two spar chords with the spar web HS. The point on the spar web marks the side with the root rib. The bridge is vertical and must be divided into four parts. The individual pieces are sanded at a 45 ° angle and glued to the lower spar with superglue. Shorten the wing joiner to suit.

Second wing
Now build up the second wing following the same procedure.

Before you glue the joiner box, check whether the joiner can be pushed into the sleeve at right angle and whether the upper wing spar can be placed over the joiner box. If in doubt, work on something. Glue in the joiner boxes one after the other if possible. Lay one wing panel flat on the board and weigh it down. Apply epoxy glue to the bottom wing spar and the contact points to the ribs R1 and R2. Place the joiner box into the wing and push the wing joiner through the root rib into the joiner box. Make sure that no glue gets on the joiner. Slide the second wing panel including the joiner box onto the wing joiner and prop the second wing tip up so the tip is approx. 35mm above the board. Clamp the two root ribs together while the epoxy dries. Check whether the upper wing spar can rest on the ribs at all points. Particular attention must be paid to the area of the plug-in and the spar. If necessary, rework this area carefully.

Glue the upper wing spar with epoxy glue. Make sure that the spar comes to rest in the recess of all ribs. Weigh down the spar evenly until the adhesive hardens. Fill in the gap between the plug-in box and the stile with a little epoxy resin or an epoxy resin pump.

CHECK AND SAND EACH WING PANEL

• Glue the 1 mm carbon fiber rod to the leading edge and around the wing tip. To do this, press the carbon fibre rod, starting at the root rib, into the recess of the rib tips. Clamp the rod in place and bend the rod around the edge arch. The carbon fibre rod should extend to the end of the edge curve and come out at the level of the trailing edge. Mark the course on the edge curve and remove the carbon fibre rod again. Using a square file form a small indentation (approx. 0.5 mm) around the edge of the tip. This ensures that the carbon fibre rod is correctly located and slightly recessed into the tip. You may have to rework the transition from the last rib to the edge arch a little if the edge arch is too far forward. Start at the root and glue the rod in place using the recesses in the rib leading edges as a guide. Use superglue and when you get to the tip tape the rod in place and bend the rod around the tip to the trailing edge. When dry remove the tape and cut off any excess rod.
• Check the entire surface to see if there are any high spots or any glue residue and sand smooth. Carefully sand the leading edge where some of the ribs slightly protrude in front of the carbon fibre leading edge rod. Check the wing tip and carefully sand it over until it has a nice shape that blends in with the rest of the wing.

AILERONS

• Mark the top of each aileron with a sticker so it can be identified later when re-uniting with the correct wing panel.
• On the underside of the wing draw two parallel lines on the aileron, 1 mm on either side of the lasered line. Using a scroll saw or fretsaw, cut the aileron off along the lasered line with a vertical cut through both sheets and the ribs. Keep checking above and below to make sure the cut is straight.
• Sand the separated aileron and the wing panel back to the line you have drawn. Make sure that the hinge line is exactly straight on the top and that both sides of the wing are exactly the same. Place the top of the aileron and wing on a hard surface with a sharp edge along the edge. Sand the V shape into the aileron and wing. Use a sanding block for this. The hinge line is on the upper surface and the aileron deflection needs to be approx. 30 ° i.e. sand a 15 ° angle on the wing trailing edge and the aileron leading edge. Stick the aileron to the wing with a few strips of tape and check the aileron deflection and the gap between the wing and the aileron. Adjust if necessary.

WING CONNECTORS

• Now you can glue the closing strips to the trailing edge of the wing and leading edge of the aileron. These are made of 0.6 mm. Use wood glue and weigh down each part while the glue dries. After the glue has hardened, sand the protrusions flush.
• A small amount of clearance is required between the ailerons at the root. Each aileron is sanded at the root by 2mm to create the V-shaped gap seen in the photo.
• Assemble both wing panels onto the wing joiner and align the root ribs. Clamp the root ribs together so they cannot slide apart. Drill a 3mm hole completely through the two root ribs at the markings. Then drill the upper part of the two holes with a 6 mm drill. Be careful not to drill right through, the hole in the lower part of the root rib should remain at 3mm.
• Separate the four GRP tabs and the four GRP stops. Lightly sand the surface and glue them together with thin superglue. To do this, place a tab and a stop on top of each other and align the two parts exactly with one another. To prevent slipping you can gently press the two parts together against the building board with a small screwdriver or other tool. Put a drop of thin superglue in each of the two holes of the stop. The superglue is then sucked between the two parts and glues them together. Enlarge the fixing holes with a 3mm drill. Coat the mating surfaces of wing connectors with Vaseline or a good release agent. Glue the wing connectors into the slots in the wing roots with epoxy. These should be orientated so the connectors slide over each other as the wing roots a brought together. Carefully push the wing halves together onto the wing joiner making sure no glue gets in between. Clamp the connector halves together with a M3 screw and nut. Align the leading edges and the trailing edges and make sure the M3 screw heads are central in the root rib recesses and leave to dry.
• Remove the nut and screw and the panels should slide apart. Check the glue joints and add a little more glue if necessary but be sure to keep the mating faces clear of glue.

BUILDING JIG

• Fasten the baseboard of the building jig to the building board to prevent the building jig from warping.
• Slot the building jig together as shown in the adjacent photo. Make sure that all wooden parts are completely inserted into the baseboard and each other.
• Slide the carbon fibre tail boom onto the fuselage pod and slot the assembly into the recesses in the building jig. Don’t glue anything yet – this is just a check. Lightly sand the sides of the carbon fibre stub at the rear of the fuselage pod if necessary to correct any slight misalignment.

CG BALANCE

Assemble the centre of gravity balance from the four components shown and glue them together. The curved face of the vertical frame should point downwards.

TAIL UNIT

Separate the three Liteply wooden parts from the board and sand off the protruding retaining bars. Saw a 117 mm long piece from the end of the pine strip. The three Liteply wooden parts and the pine bar are arranged on a flat surface and glued together. Carefully measure and cut the longitudinal bar from the pine strip. This needs to be a snug fit. Glue in place when happy. Cut four 1 mm carbon fibre rods to suit. Two 1 mm carbon fiber rods are glued on top of each other in each location using super glue. Round off the leading edge and tip and gently sand any high points on the surface flush. The second half of the tail unit is built up in a similar way.

At the roots, and the upper edge of the two tail unit halves with a 50 ° angle. The V-tail has an opening angle of 100 °. You can check the correct angle in the building jig. Glue the two tail unit halves together and leave the tail unit in the building jig until the glue has hardened. Make sure the slots for the dihedral braces are clear of glue and that the tail unit does not stick to the building jig.

RUDDERVATORS

• Detach the balsa ruddervators and sand the edges flush. The trailing edge of the ruddervators should be sanded to a thickness of approx. 1 mm. To do this more easily and precisely, you can glue a 1 mm steel wire to the rear edge with superglue. After sanding to shape, the wire can be easily cut with a knife. Bend the two aluminium ruddervator horns to 55 ° at the marking. Make sure you bend a left and right horn as they are handed.
• Take the ply leading edge former used to fit the wing leading edges and slot the little ply triangle into the slot. This is used to accurately align the ruddervator horns while gluing. Place the ruddervators upside down on the former. Glue the aluminium horns into the ruddervators with epoxy resin. The ruddervator horn should be pressed firmly down to the building board and the remaining recess filled with glue. Weigh down and leave to fully dry. Carefully sand off any excess glue. Sand a small angle to the leading edge to allow the down movement of the ruddervators. Sand the rudder blade diagonally at the lower front edge so that the rudder can be moved downwards. The rudder will later be hinged to the top.

WING FIXING

• Glue the two ply wing seat doublers for the wing fixing screws into the fuselage pylon using fast-curing epoxy adhesive. Note this photo shows the orientation of the ply pieces. They are glued inside!
• Measure 15mm from the rear of the pylon and mark for a hole exactly on the fuselage centre line. Drill a 2.5mm hole through the pylon and the doubler. This is the rear wing fixing position.
• You can use the slipway for alignment and drill the hole with a 2.5 mm drill bit. Make sure that the hole is drilled perpendicular to the wing contact surface.
• Cut a thread in the hole with an M3 tap. Harden the thread by running a drop of thin superglue into the thread. You may have to cut the thread again afterward.
• Place the assembled wing on the fuselage and fix the surface with the rear screw. Mark the front drill hole. Make sure that the wing is aligned at right angles to the direction of flight. Measure the distance between the wing tips and at the end of the attached carbon fibre tail boom and ensure it is equal for both wing tips. Drill the front fixing pilot hole with a 2.5mm bit and cut another 3 mm thread. Don‘t forget to harden the thread.

SERVO CUTOUTS

NOTE:

• The aileron servo installation is designed for the previously recommended servos. If you use other servos, you may need to adjust the cutouts accordingly.
• Mark the centre of the servo access opening 39mm from the rear of the pylon. Drill and sand a 14 mm hole in the top of the pylon. You must be able to put the servo horns on through this hole and screw them tight.
• A slot is required in the sides of the pylon for the servo output arms to exit. These openings are approx. 16mm long and 5mm high. The top edge runs parallel to the top of the pylon and is approx. 4 mm below the top of the pylon. Repeat for the other side.

AILERON SERVO BRACKET

• The bracket for the aileron servos is assembled from the parts shown on the right.
• Insert the two nuts into the semi-circular board and glue them with thin superglue.
• Glue the thin board to the board with the nuts. Use the two screws to accurately position the parts. This is the support plate which is glued into the fuselage later. The bracket for the aileron servos is slotted together and glued with superglue. If using alternative servos check the fit and adjust as necessary.
• Install the servos. The servo output arms are located towards the rear of the fuselage. The support plate is screwed tight behind the servo bracket with the two M2 screws with the thin plywood facing forwards.
• Note – only the support plate is glued to the fuselage. The bracket is supported at the rear on the carbon fibre tube, which is already glued to the fuselage.
• Insert the two Bowden cable tubes through the carbon fibre stub at the rear of the fuselage and thread through to the canopy opening. Orientate the tubes vertically, one above the other and thread through the aileron bracket. Slide the servo mount back into the fuselage as far back as possible, over the carbon fibre stub in the rear. The servo output shafts must be in the middle of the two slots in the pylon sides and be accessible through the hole in the top of the pylon. Fit the servo output arms and check for clearance. Make sure the bracket is properly aligned and glue the support plate in place with medium-viscosity superglue. Now you can remove the servos at any time by simply undoing the two screws and sliding the bracket forward.

Caution: For illustration purposes, a CFRP tube and two Bow-den cable tubes will be inserted in the photo. You do not have to do this.
Caution: To illustrate how the aileron servo bracket has been installed a hole was cut into the side of a scrap fuselage as seen in the photo. Note – you don‘t have to do this hole!!

RUDDERVATOR SERVO BRACKET

Screw the two servos for the V-tail into the servo bracket. The out-put shafts of the servos should both be in the middle. Push your receiver battery forwards into the fuselage as far as possible and hold the servo bracket in the fuselage as a test. If you can get the battery out again and there is enough space for the receiver and the cables, you can position the servo bracket at this point. Glue the servo mount in place with quick-setting epoxy glue.

V-TAIL SUPPORT

• Identify and layout the parts shown in the adjacent photo. The five black support elements are glued to the 4 mm carbon fiber tube with epoxy adhesive. The three middle elements are also glued together. To do this, grind the contact surfaces. The middle three elements should have a width of 17.5 mm after gluing.
• Slide the five support elements onto the carbon fibre tube. The three elements in the middle have a groove to accommodate the tail skid. The last element is flush with the carbon fiber tube. The two GRP V-tail fixings are pushed between the first and last element and the three middle elements. These should have space in between without wobbling. Remove the GRP fixings without moving the sup-ports. Align the five elements with each other to create a seat for the V-tail. To do this turn the assembly upside down on the building board and press down firmly.
• Before the glue hardens, check that the space for the GRP bra-ckets is correct and that the middle elements are close together and correctly aligned. Thoroughly remove any glue that has oozed out. If necessary, you can use a cotton swab and Acteon for this. Glue the tail skid into the groove of the three middle support elements with epoxy glue. The GRP V-tail fixings are glued into the V-tail later.
• The V-tail is held to the tail boom with a short piece of wire and a piece of the Bowden cable left over from the ruddervators. The wire is bent at right angles at one end so that the pin can be pulled out. It is also slightly curved so that there is minimal tension and the bolt can slip out. The wire and Bowden cable tube are glued with superglue. Check the fit of the components and open up the hole through the assembly with a 2mm drill bit to allow the locking pin to be inserted. The V-tail fixings slide between the sup-ports and the tail is held in place by the wire pin.

TAIL BOOM

• Thread the 6 mm carbon fibre tube onto the two Bowden cables and glue the tube to the fuselage pod with slow-setting epoxy glue. Push the V-tail support onto the two Bowden cables and glue the rear support to the 6 mm fibre tube of the tail boom. Place back into the building jig while the glue dries. Align the fuselage pod horizontally with the aid of the jig.
• Place the fuselage into the building jig and make sure the components are all accurately aligned. The front edge of the V-tail support should line up with the support on the building jig. The Bowden cables should exit the tube horizontally at the rear.
• Mask the top of the rear support with a layer of scotch tape to prevent glue from sticking and to compensate for the missing covering. Thoroughly coat the rear V-tail seat with Vaseline to prevent it from sticking. Insert the two GRP brackets into the rear support and secure them with the wire locking pin. This should also be rubbed with Vaseline. If necessary, carefully adjust the hole in the five support elements and the two GRP V-tail mounts to the securing pin using a 2 mm drill bit. Apply a thin coat of epoxy glue to the GRP stubs and slide the V-tail into place. Check for correct alignment of the V-tail unit and weigh down until the adhesive hardens.

COMPLETION

• COVERING
• ATTACH AILERONS AND RUDDERVATORS
• V-TAIL LINKAGE
• Before you can start with the actual covering, you must thoroughly dust all surfaces. A slightly damp cotton cloth can also be used for this purpose. Starting with the bottoms, tack the iron-on film first on selected straight lines at a moderate temperature. You can then cover the adjoining surfaces from the inside out with a gentle pull. The top is then covered. Make sure that you do not get any distortion due to excessive tension in the film.
• Use clear tape to attach the two ailerons and the two V-tail rudder-vators ensuring that full up and down movement is achieved.
• Cut approximately 35 mm long pieces from the end of the rudder-vator control wires and bend each one as narrow as possible to match the servo horns. Position the two pieces of wire in the inner hole (6 mm) of the rud-elevator servo arms.

AILERON LINKAGE

• Bend an approx. 10 mm long piece at right angles at the end of the wire. Push the wire into the Bowden cable tube from the rear and connect the ruddervator horns to the wire. Fix both tail ruddervators in neutral. Cut the linkage wire to length in the canopy opening so that it and the wire from the servo overlap by approx. 20 mm.
• Slide a 20 mm long piece of shrink tubing over the linkage wire and glue the two pieces of wire with medium-viscosity superglue. The shrink tube is pushed over the overlap area and shrunk .
• Shorten the thread of the two ball joint heads to a length of approx. 4 mm so that they don’t protrude on the other side of the aileron. Drill a 2 mm hole in the aileron about 13 mm from the center of the wing. The ball joint is screwed into this hole and glued with epoxy glue.

AILERON LINKAGE

• Two pieces of wire approx. 28 mm long are cut from the rest of the linkage wire and bent with a narrow Z-bend. Please take the exact length of the wire from your model. The wire is soldered into a soldering sleeve.
• Use offcuts from the ruddervator linkage to hold the canopy in place on the fuselage. The wire should be a little longer than the canopy. Two approximately 1 cm pieces of the Bowden cable tube are used as spacers. Push these two Bowden cable tubes onto the wire and bend the wire ends slightly. Sand the adhesive area in the canopy a little. Glue the two Bowden cable tubes into the canopy with medium-viscosity superglue. Align the wire and glue it into the two tubes with super glue as well.
• Screw the ball joint connector onto the soldering sleeve and adjust the length to suit when the wings are fitted.

BALANCING

• Plug the four servo connection cables into the receiver according to the specifications of your RC transmitter system. To connect the receiver battery, we recommend plugging an extension cable into the receiver. Now place the receiver in the fuselage and fix it with some foam if necessary.

NOTE:

• Observe the seller‘s hazard warnings when using lead.
• The center of gravity is set with the balance scale included in the kit. In strong winds, it is advisable to set the BOO slightly more nose-heavy. The centre of gravity in the specification is a recommended setting for the first flight. Once you are familiar with the model, you can adjust the center of gravity to your liking.

R/C PROGRAMMING

• Program your RC system and, if necessary, create the desired flight phases for normal flight, thermals, etc. Before the first start, you should always carry out a range and function test to ensure that all the controls move as desired and that operational safety is ensured.
• The following settings were determined during the flight testing of the original BOO. These should be used as a starting point and adjusted to suit your own flying style.
• For the first flight tests, set the centre of gravity as shown in the plan to 39 mm from the leading edge.

RUDDER THROWS

TEST FLIGHT

For the first flight it is advisable to have a helper to launch the model for you. Throw the BOO gently downwards and give it a short time to pick up the necessary speed. Throwing too hard or throwing upwards often leads to unsuccessful starts. The BOO develops its performance through speed. Try to fly it faster, even in very poor conditions. As you do this, you will notice that the BOO maintains its altitude better than it does at slow speed.

DISTRIBUTOR

Robbe Modellsport
Industriestraße 10 4565 Inzersdorf im Kremstal Austria

• Phone: +43(0)7582/81313-0
• Mail: info@robbe.com
• UID No.: ATU69266037 „Robbe “ is a registered Trademark. Errors, misprints, and technical changes are reserved.

Copyright 2023
Robbe Modellsport 2023 Copy and reprint only with our permission.

Service-Address
Contact your Dealer or: Robbe Modellsport, Industriestraße 10, 4565 Inzersdorf im Kremstal service@robbe.com, +43(0)7582-81313-0 www.robbe.com

References

• Robbe Modellsport - Offizielle Markenwebsite und Shop

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