HOGTUNES Retro Lid-RM 6 Inch x9 Inch Speaker Instruction Manual
- June 12, 2024
- HOGTUNES
Table of Contents
- Thank you!
- IMPORTANT NOTES
- REPLACEMENT PARTS
- GETTING STARTED
- IDENTIFYING THE SCREWS
- DISASSEMBLING THE FACTORY LID
- MOUNTING THE TEMPLATES
- CUT GRILL OPENING
- TEST FIT GRILL
- CLUTCH SIDE LID
- BRAKE SIDE LID
- WIRING INSIDE THE SADDLEBAG FOR SPEAKERS
- WIRING FROM AMPLIFIER TO SADDLEBAGS
- GRILL BADGE OPTION
- WARRANTY INFO
- References
- Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
- Download This Manual (PDF format)
HOGTUNES Retro Lid-RM 6 Inch x9 Inch Speaker
Thank you!
Thank you for choosing Hogtunes Retro Lid-RM for 2014+ touring bikes with
factory style “hard” saddlebags. Since positive word of mouth is the best way
to grow our business, we want your new parts to work as well as they were
designed to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help.
Email techsupport@hogtunes.com, or call us
during regular business hours. If you still need help, please consider a
professional install.
Hogtunes Contact Information
Email: techsupport@hogtunes.com
USA Tel: 608-554-7631 – Canada Tel:
705-719-6361
IMPORTANT NOTES
The factory saddlebag hinges limit the size of speaker magnet that can be used and allow the lids to open and close without issue. Hogtunes assumes ZERO RESPONSIBILITY for fitment issues, or water leaks when any speaker brand other than Hogtunes are used.
DO NOT USE “THREAD LOCK” OR “SCREW GLUE” OF ANY KIND AS IT DESTROYS PLASTIC AND WILL CAUSE PART FAILURE NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY!
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Accidents happen, and we get a lot of requests for replacement parts for all of our kits. If you find yourself needing a grill or a badge, or any other part, please visit the “Parts and Accessories” section of our website at www.hogtunes.com or call us!
GETTING STARTED
Remove the saddlebag from the bike, and put on a stable working surface. For
obvious reasons, blankets etc. on your work surface will help protect the
paint. The white circle in Fig 1.1 is an approximation of where a 5/8” (16mm)
hole will be drilled. This hole is where the supplied Hogtunes silicone
grommet will go to allow the lids speaker wire to pass into the saddlebag. We
strongly suggest putting masking tape over the painted area to be drilled. We
also suggest starting with a small bit, and gradually working your way up to
the 5/8” (16mm) hole. Drilling the hole with the lid still on is recommended!
Locate the wire harness and take the 48” section with the silicone grommet in
line and install into the saddle bag making sure the 2 speaker “spades” are on
the inside of the bag, and the single 2 pin connector is on the outside of the
bag. The black squares (also in Fig 1.1 ) are an approximation of
where supplied zip tie peel and stick “anchors” will be placed. Note: Before
applying the anchors, you need to clean the plastic WELL using 99% isopropyl
alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (It will eat plastic). Do not
apply pads until cleaner has completely evaporated.
IDENTIFYING THE SCREWS
The kit comes with 2 types of screws:
-
6 (each) Phillips head screws with a pointy end
-
16 (each) Phillips “Thread Forming” screws with a “flat” end
For proper installation of this kit, you will need to use the correct screws throughout the process.
DISASSEMBLING THE FACTORY LID
As you disassemble your factory lid, please make note of what screws came from
where as they will be re-used. Open the factory lid and you will see 2 “T15”
torx screws on the “bag side” of the cloth tether that holds the lid to the
bag. Remove these 2 screws, move the cloth tether out of the way, and you will
see 2 more of the same screws which also need to be removed. The lid is now
free from the bag. Remove the 2 screws that hold the “key lock” to the factory
lid. The chrome panel with the reflector built in comes off the factory lid by
removing the 3 screws right next to the key lock. At its seam, the factory
foam gasket needs to be peeled up enough to allow the rest of the hinge
mechanism to be removed from the factory lid. There are 2x “T20” torx screws
that hold the balance of the hinge mechanism to the plastic of the lid. Remove
these screws and put hinge mechanism aside.
Remove the T15 screw that holds the opening handle in place and pull the handle away from the factory lid. Remove the last 4x T15 screws securing the large latching mechanism to the underside of the factory lid. This entire mechanism is now removed.
MOUNTING THE TEMPLATES
Step #1 : Locate the cutting templates noting that they are clearly
marked “Clutch side” and “Brake side”. As shown in Fig1.4, apply masking tape
to the underside of the template to avoid unnecessary scratches to the lids
paint.
Step #2 : Using Fig 1.3, put the correct template on the correct lid and
drill through the 3 holes in the template using a 1/8” (3mm) drill bit. Locate
3 of the supplied “pointy” ended screws and using hand tools, secure the
template to the lid. You will also see “keyhole” shapes in each template where
you will start to cut when its time. Drill a 1/8” (3mm) “starter hole” in each
of these key holes and then enlarge these holes to 5/16” (8mm)
Step #3 : Using a scratch awl or a pick tool (or something similar),
scratch the factory paint all the way around the outer most area of the “cut
line”. This gives you a line you can use “just in case” you need to trim your
lid once your cutting is complete.
-
Underside of Template No Masking Tape
-
Underside of Template With Masking Tape Applied Around Perimeter
PRO TIP
We STRONGLY suggest using a blade
SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR PLASTICS!
When cutting your lid with a correct blade, there should be ZERO smell of
burning plastic! Incorrect blades will do more melting than cutting and your
friends may laugh at you hysterically.
CUT GRILL OPENING
Its time to start cutting. We suggest a standard jigsaw or an air “body” saw.
In all cases, you will start at one of the “keyholes” in the template, and
stop at the “hard corners” as shown.
Make sure to cut through all the tabs in the template. We suggest starting at
the keyhole closest to the middle of the lid first. Once the template is free
from the lid, it can be discarded. You will now see the line you scribed in
case you need to do any trimming before proceeding.
TEST FIT GRILL
You can now test fit the grill to see if it fits nicely in the opening. Trim
as needed being careful not to damage your painted surface. Once you are
satisfied everything fits nice, re-install the lids latching mechanism. Don’t
put the lids on the bags yet.
CLUTCH SIDE LID
Have the lid upside down on a blanket or something similar to protect your
painted surface. Locate the speaker adaptor marked “Clutch” noting you will
see it only fits one way. In the order shown, you will put “thread forming”
screws through the adaptor and into the grill so the pieces “sandwich” the
opening.
MAKE SURE to put a supplied rubber washer on screw #4! Using hand tools, get
each screw started. Once started, tighten each one down till they “stop”. They
don’t need to be any tighter than that and will damage the rubber washer and
cause leaking.
BRAKE SIDE LID
Have the lid upside down on a blanket or something similar to protect your
painted surface. Locate the speaker adaptor marked “Brake” noting you will see
it only fits one way. In the order shown, you will put “thread forming” screws
through the adaptor and into the grill so the pieces “sandwich” the opening.
MAKE SURE to put a supplied rubber washer on screw #4! Using hand tools, get
each screw started. Once started, tighten each one down till they “stop”. They
don’t need to be any tighter than that and will damage the rubber washer and
cause leaking.
Depending on what speakers you will use will determine if the supplied
silicone speaker gasket is required. If your speakers have a soft foam (or
other soft material) as a gasket already attached to the front of the speaker,
the supplied gasket may not be required to help seal the speaker to the
adaptor. If your speakers have no gasket, or a very hard gasket, we suggest
using the supplied gasket. The supplied gasket has a “flat side” and a
“groove” side. You will put the flat side against the adaptor so your speaker
sits on to the groove side.
Using the supplied “thread cutting” screws, attach your speakers to the
adaptors noting which way the speaker wire connectors are for easy access once
inside the bag.
With the speakers attached to your lids, re-attach the lids to your saddle
bags and re-install the completed bags to the bike.
WIRING INSIDE THE SADDLEBAG FOR SPEAKERS
The pre-terminated spade connectors on the harness inside the bag is correct for Hogtunes speakers and may need to have new terminals installed for the speakers you are using. Please note: The larger connector (colored wire) is the negative, and the smaller connector (black) is the positive. With the correct terminals on the wires, plug the wires into your speakers. We don’t know if you have other accessories or amps in your bags so you will have to determine the best routing of the wire. LEAVE EXTRA SLACK SO THE LID CAN OPEN! You can now use the supplied peel and stick zip tie “anchors” to secure the wires inside your bag. Note: Before applying the anchors, you need to clean the plastic WELL using 99% isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (It will eat plastic). Do not apply pads until cleaner is completely evaporated. With the anchors in place, secure the wires in place using supplied zip ties.
WIRING FROM AMPLIFIER TO SADDLEBAGS
The long supplied wire harness covered in braid with 4 wires has 2-2 pin plugs on one end, and a single 4 pin plug on the other. In all cases, the end with the 4 pin plug will go nearest the amp you’re using which typically will be your fairing. For FLH (Batwing) Models, the harness will pass under the inner fairing where the main wire harness passes through on the clutch side of the bike. For FLTR (Road Glide) Models, the harness will pass through the inner fairing where the factory wires pass. Loosen the tank console and run wires up and over the gas tank, but under the tank console. There is a provision on the front of the tank console for wires to pass. Note: You “can” lift the fuel tank and run the wires in the factory “chase” on the top of the frame if you want but it is not required.
The other end of the harness will stop just behind the battery. You can now plug the wires from each saddlebag into the main harness noting each pair of wires is marked “clutch side” and “brake side” for reference. Undo the quick release fasteners used to secure the bag to the bike so the bag can lean away from the bike allowing you to access the wires on the back side of the bag installed earlier. The wire will go upwards and be secured to the peel and stick “anchors” using supplied zip ties. IMPORTANT: Any slack in the speaker wires between the bike and the bags MUST be secured under the seat to eliminate the chance the wires could become tangled in the bikes moving parts when riding! The 4 pin connector on the wire harness will plug into any Hogtunes “REV” series amp, or any Wild Boar Audio amp. If your using another brand of amp, you will see that the wires near the 4 plug are labeled. Simply cut the plug off and wire the lids to your amp using the labels to identify each wire.
GRILL BADGE OPTION
The grills come with a pre-installed badge with chrome letters. Depending on
the bike, you may want to remove these badges and use the supplied blacked out
badges. To remove the badges, you can use a 90 degree pick tool or a small
flat head screwdriver or something similar to CAREFULLY pry the badges off.
Before putting the new badges on, make sure there is no left over adhesive
residue from the first set. If there is, use something like isopropyl alcohol
to clean the residue off. DO NOT use Acetone (It will ruin the grill finish).
Make sure the cleaner is completely evaporated before applying new badges.
To apply the new badges, simply peel off the backing to expose the adhesive.
Sit the badges in place.
IMPORTANT : the new adhesive should sit at room temp (or higher) for 24
hours minimum for the adhesive to “bite in” to the grill surface.
Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel to each extreme side
making sure any wiring is not impeding the steering of the motorcycle.
Failure to do so can result in serious injury or death!
Harley-Davidson, Electra Glide, Road Glide, Street Glide, Ultra Classic, Tri Glide, CVO, Screamin Eagle and Tour-Pak® are Trademarks, and/or Registered Trademarks of Harley-Davidson, Inc., Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA, and if Used or Implied are for Reference Only. There is No Affiliation Between Harley- Davidson, Inc., and Hogtunes Inc.
WARRANTY INFO
Hogtunes Retro LID-RM are warranted against defects out of the box only. Proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims. The warranty applies to the original retail customer, and is not transferable. Please visit www.hogtunes.com for more information or to start a warranty claim. Products found to be defective during the warranty period will be repaired or replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion.
What Is Not Covered :
- Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of Hogtunes products.
- Paint applied to any part, for any reason.
- Damage from fasteners piercing through or being over tightened.
- Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes.
- Subsequent damage to any other components.
- Any product purchased from a non-authorized Hogtunes dealer.
- Damage to Hogtunes products due to an accident or collision.
- Damage from use of Thread lock/Screw Glue materials of any kind.
- Water leaks of any kind when speakers other than Hogtunes are installed.
- Lids that do not close properly when any other brand of speaker besides Hogtunes are used.
IMPORTANT : In the event of a warranty claim, please fill out the form in
the Warranty section of our website, or contact us by email or by phone. Valid
claims will have a Return Authorization Number (RA#) generated which MUST
appear on the outside of the box when it arrives to our offices.
Goods Arriving Without An RA# Will Be Refused!
Hogtunes products will play much louder than the Original Equipment, which can
be a distraction to the rider and/or passenger. Please use caution when
adjusting, or playing your stereo at high volume, ESPECIALLY IN TRAFFIC.
You are a valued customer so please:
Ride Alert
Arrive Alive!
Ride Alert
Arrive Alive!