HOGTUNES WBA RETRO LID KIT 400 Watt AMP With Cut In LID Kit and 6×9 Speakers Instruction Manual

**HOGTUNES WBA RETRO LID KIT 400 Watt AMP With Cut In LID Kit and 6×9 Speakers Instruction Manual

**

Thank you for choosing the Hogtunes Wild Boar Audio WBA Retro Lid Kit for 2014-2023 Touring Models. Since positive word of mouth is the best way to grow our business, we want your new system to work as well as it was designed to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help. Email techsupport@hogtunes.com, or call us during regular business hours. If you still need help, please consider a professional install.

The WBA 400.2R amplifier is a Class D design. It should be understood that ALL Class D amplifiers, REGARDLESS OF BRAND, cause a reduction in FM reception. The WBA 400.2R features a proprietary circuit design called R.E.M.I.T. (Reduced Electro Magnetic Interference Technology) that Hogtunes believes gives the BEST FM reception available for any Class D Amplifier designed for a motorcycle. If you add a 2nd or 3rd model amplifier to your system, reduction of FM reception is increased and is considered normal.

Hogtunes understands that some riders prefer the cosmetics of in-fairing antennas, however it should be noted that NOTHING WORKS AS WELL AS THE FACTORY ANTENNA.  If FM is an important part of your riding experience, we strongly advise against the use of any in fairing type antenna!

IMPORTANT

This manual assumes at least one Wild Boar Audio WBA 400.2R or WBA 300.2 is already installed on the bike. This manual also assumes that any radio required “re-flash” is done, and that the radio’s “fader” function appears on the radio menu. If you have questions, please call us before proceeding!

This manual has 5 sections.

• SECTION 1: STREET GLIDE/ULTRA AMP MOUNTING
• SECTION 2: ROAD GLIDE/ROAD GLIDE ULTRA AMP MOUNTING
• SECTION 3: WIRING
• SECTION 4: INSTALLING THE LID SPEAKER ADAPTORS
• SECTION 5: INSTALLING THE WILD BOAR 6″X9″

Wild Boar Audio Contact Information

Email: techsupport@hogtunes.com
Canada Tel : 705-719-6361 / USA
Tel : 608-554-7631

FOR ALL MODEL BIKES

Remove the bike’s seat, and undo the main (+ and -) connectors from the battery.
Remove the outer fairing/headlamp assembly and set aside. Refer to a service manual if you need help with this. NOTE: Placing a towel on the front fender can help prevent scratches or “dings” from dropped tools or fasteners, etc.

SECTION 1 STREET GLIDE/ULTRA AMP MOUNTING

**IF THIS IS THE SECOND AMP GOING ON THE BIKE

Assuming the manual for the first amp was followed, your existing amp should be mounted on the “brake side” half of the mounting plate on the bike. The amp being installed needs to be removed from the plate it came shipped on, and “stuck” next to the amp already on the bike in the same orientation as shown in the image.

**IF THIS IS THE THIRD AMP GOING ON THE BIKE

If the amp in this kit is the third amp going in the bike, Hogtunes FLH Side Plate-RM is required to mount this amp. Follow the instructions that came with FLH Side Plate-RM to get this amp mounted. Once the third amp is mounted, move to the Wiring Section of this manual.

SECTION 2 ROAD GLIDE/ROAD GLIDE ULTRA AMP MOUNTING

**IF THIS IS THE SECOND AMP GOING ON THE BIKE

Assuming the manual for the first amp was followed, your existing amp should be mounted on the “back side” (closest to fuel tank) of the mounting plate. The amp being installed needs to be removed from the plate it came shipped on, and “stuck” to the plate in the bike so both amps together look like the image

**IF THIS IS THE THIRD AMP GOING ON THE BIKE

If the amp in this kit is the third amp going in the bike, Hogtunes FLTR Side Plate-RM isrequired to mount this amp. Follow the instructions that came with FLTR Side Plate-RM to get this amp mounted. Once the third amp is mounted, move to the Wiring Section of this manual.

SECTION 3 WIRING THE AMP

**FOR STREET GLIDE AND ROAD GLIDE MODELS IF THIS IS THE SECOND AMP GOING ON THE BIKE

• Make sure the “A/B/C” switch next to the input/bypass connector on the amp is in the “A” position.
• Locate the RR PLUG-RM that came in the kit as shown below. The black 4 pin“square plug” on this harness will plug into the empty factory plug inside the fairing with 4 light blue wires going into it.

FOR STREET GLIDE MODELS : This factory plug was attached to the steel plate just above the radio with a “Christmas tree” fastener.

FOR ROAD GLIDE MODELS : This factory plug was attached to the headlamp assembly inside the fairing

THE 8 PIN BLACK PLUG WILL PLUG INTO “INPUT/BYPASS” ON THE AMP BEING INSTALLED.

FOR ALL MODEL BIKES

**IF THIS IS THE THIRD AMP GOING ON THE BIKE

• Make sure the “A/B/C” switch next to the input/bypass connector on the amp is in the “A” position.
• Inside the amp box, locate the shorter harness with red/black and white/black wires labeled “input link”. The 8 pin black plug on the input link will plug into the “Input/bypass” on the amp being installed. Locate one of the empty blue 4 pin plugs on one of the other amps (already on the bike). One of the blue 4 pin plugs on the new amps input link will plug into the empty blue plug from a previously installed amp noting they will only go together one way.

POWER AND SPEAKER LID HARNESS – FOR ALL MODELS

• Locate the main power harness and plug it into the matching power pigtail on the side of the amp. Open the “Retro Lid-RM” box and locate the accessory bag which has the lid wire harness in it. The 4 pin black plug on one end will plug into the black 4 pin “amplified output” plug on the amp being installed. Unravel the lid wire harness. At the opposite end, you will see where the harness “splits” into 2 separate shorter harnesses. These 2 shorter harnesses need to be removed and put aside as they are not used in this installation.
• The power/ground and lid harness will pass through the inner fairing where the main wire harness passes through on the brake side of the bike. If you’re comfortable removing and re-installing the fuel tank, the wires can go in the factory wire “chase”. Alternatively, you can loosen the tank’s “chrome console” and run wires up and over the gas tank, but under the tank’s chrome console. There is a provision on the front of the tank console for wires to pass. NOTE: During some routine bike services, the fuel tank will be removed. Having the wires going up and over the tank could be an inconvenience for the technician.

SECTION 4  INSTALLING THE CUT IN SPEAKER ADAPTORS

Remove the saddlebag from the bike, and put on a stable working surface. For obvious reasons, blankets etc. on your work surface will help protect the paint. The white circle in the image below is an approximation of where a 3/4” (19mm) hole will be drilled. This hole is where the supplied Hogtunes rubber grommet will go (later in this install) to allow the speaker wire to pass in/out of the saddlebag. We strongly suggest putting masking tape over the painted area to be drilled. We also suggest starting with a small bit, and gradually working your way up to the 3/4” (19mm) hole. Drilling the hole with the lid still on is recommended! The black squares (also in image below) are an approximation of where supplied zip tie peel and stick “anchors” will be placed. Note: Before applying the anchors, you need to clean the plastic WELL using 99% isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (It will eat plastic). Do not apply pads until cleaner has completely evaporated.

IDENTIFYING THE SCREWS

The Retro Lid Kit Box comes with 2 types of screws:

• 6 (each) Phillips head screws with a pointy end
• 16 (each) Phillips “Thread Forming” screws with a “flat” end

For proper installation of this kit, you will need to use the correct screws throughout the process.

DISASSEMBLING THE FACTORY LID

As you disassemble your factory lid, please make note of what screws came from where as they will be re-used. Open the factory lid and you will see 2 “T15” torx screws on the “bag side” of the cloth tether that holds the lid to the bag. Remove these 2 screws, move the cloth tether out of the way, and you will see 2 more of the same screws which also need to be removed. The lid is now free from the bag. Remove the 2 screws that hold the “key lock” to the factory lid. The chrome panel with the reflector built in comes off the factory lid by removing the 3 screws right next to the key lock. At its seam, the factory foam gasket needs to be peeled up enough to allow the rest of the hinge mechanism to be removed from the factory lid. There are 2x “T20” torx screws that hold the balance of the hinge mechanism to the plastic of the lid. Remove these screws and put hinge mechanism aside.

Remove the T15 screw that holds the opening handle in place and pull the handle away from the factory lid. Remove the last 4x T15 screws securing the large latching mechanism to the underside of the factory lid. This entire mechanism is now removed.

MOUNTING THE TEMPLATES

Step #1: Locate the cutting templates noting that they are clearly marked “Clutch side” and “Brake side”. As shown in Fig1.4, apply masking tape to the underside of the template to avoid unnecessary scratches to the lids paint.

Step #2: Using Fig 1.3, put the correct template on the correct lid and drill through the 3 holes in the template using a 1/8” (3mm) drill bit. Locate 3 of the supplied “pointy” ended screws and using hand tools, secure the template to the lid. You will also see “keyhole” shapes in each template where you will start to cut when its time. Drill a 1/8” (3mm) “starter hole” in each of these key holes and then enlarge these holes to 5/16” (8mm)

Step #3: Using a scratch awl or a pick tool (or something similar), scratch the factory paint all the way around the outer most area of the “cut line”. This gives you a line you can use “just in case” you need to trim your lid once your cutting is complete.

Figure 1.3
Underside of Template No Masking Tape

Figure 1.4
Underside of Template With Masking Tape Applied Around Perimeter

PRO TIP

We STRONGLY suggest using a blade

SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR PLASTICS!

When cutting your lid with a correct blade, there should be ZERO smell of burning plastic! Incorrect blades will do more melting than cutting and your friends may laugh at you hysterically.

CUT GRILL OPENING

Its time to start cutting. We suggest a standard jigsaw or an air “body” saw. In all cases, you will start at one of the “keyholes” in the template, and stop at the “hard corners” as shown. Make sure to cut through all the tabs in the template. We suggest starting at the keyhole closest to the middle of the lid first. Once the template is free from the lid, it can be discarded. You will now see the line you scribed in case you need to do any trimming before proceeding.

TEST FIT GRILL

You can now test fit the grill to see if it fits nicely in the opening. Trim as needed being careful not to damage your painted surface. Once you are satisfied the grill fits nicely in the opening, you can start to re-install the latching mechanism. See the passive crossover information on the next page before completing reinstallation of the latching mechanism.

INSTALLING PASSIVE CROSSOVERS

In the box with the 6″x9″ speakers locate the passive crossovers mounted on metal plates. As you are re-installing the latching mechanisms, the 4 screws highlighted by white circles in Figure1.2 will be used to secure a passive crossover in each lid. There is a dedicated clutch side and brake side and they will only go in one way. The factory cloth tether will also be re- installed at this time.

Figure 1.3 below shows the crossover correctly oriented.

CLUTCH SIDE LID

Locate the speaker adaptor marked “Clutch” noting you will see it only fits one way. In the order shown, you will put “thread forming” screws through the adaptor and into the grill so the pieces “sandwich” the opening. MAKE SURE to put a supplied rubber washer on screw #4! Using hand tools, get each screw started. Once started, tighten each one down till they “stop”. They don’t need to be any tighter than that and will damage the rubber washer and cause leaking.

BRAKE SIDE LID

Locate the speaker adaptor marked “Brake” noting you will see it only fits one way. In the order shown, you will put “thread forming” screws through the adaptor and into the grill so the pieces “sandwich” the opening. MAKE SURE to put a supplied rubber washer on screw #4! Using hand tools, get each screw started. Once started, tighten each one down till they “stop”. They don’t need to be any tighter than that and will damage the rubber washer and cause leaking.

INSTALLING INSTALLING 6X9’S

Locate one of the “tweeter bridges” and place in speaker opening so the tweeter is pointing to outside of lid.

IMPORTANT: The wires coming off the tweeter bridge must be oriented so they point towards the back of the lid!

Locate one of the 6″ x 9″ woofers and place it on top of the tweeter bridge. The speaker wire connector on the woofer must also be oriented so when it is installed, it is closest to the back of the lid. The supplied 3/4” screws (19mm) screws will be used in the 4 “corners” to go through the woofer, through the tweeter bridge and into the speaker adaptor. Get each screw snug, and then tighten in an “X” pattern.

A HAND TOOL IS STRONGLY SUGGESTED FOR THIS STEP!

The short wires from the crossovers will now plug into the woofer and tweeter of the 6″x9″. They will only go together one way. The lids can now be re- installed onto the saddlebags.

With the lids mounted to the bags, take the last wire on the crossover and run it through the 3/4” hole drilled in the saddlebag earlier. Leave enough wire out side the bag so its long enough to plug into the lid harness in the battery area run from the amplifier earlier. Make sure to leave enough slack in the bag so the lid can open and close without undue stress on the wires!

There are rubber grommets in the 6″x9″ box that will be used to go around the wires and cover the holes. Note: we tooled in a “plug” in the center of the grommet that can be easily pulled out in case you have other wires going into the saddlebags for  lighting etc. Use supplied zip ties to secure the wire on the outside of the bag to the anchors applied earlier.

The bags can now be mounted back to the bike and the wire for the crossover that is out side the bag can now plug directly into the lid harness run from the amp earlier install. Any left over slack in the speaker wires to the lids will stay under the seat area  Use the “anchors” supplied in the cut in lid kit box to secure the wires inside your saddle bags using supplied zip ties. Note: Before applying the anchors, you need to clean the plastic WELL using 99% isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner.

DO NOT use Acetone (It will eat plastic). Do not apply pads until cleaner has completely evaporated.

Attach the amp’s red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal and the amp’s black wire to the negative (-) battery terminal. The factory battery wires are also re-installed at this point. When attaching the power and ground wires, it is always a good practice to do the negative first. When the positive connector touches the battery, some sparking is normal. This is a function of the capacitors in the amplifier charging up

Turn the stereo on and, at low volume, test to make sure all amplified speakers are working. Now is also a good time to make sure you can fade between the front and rear speakers using the “fader” control on the radio. NOTE: If one or both amps do not turn on, start the bike and the amp(s) should turn on. Wild Boar Amps have a feature built in where they will not turn on if the battery is “soft”. This is to make sure that the bike has all the power it needs to start!

Re-install the seat making sure the amplifier’s “+” and “-” connectors are positioned in such away so they will not bend or break when the rider’s weight is on the seat. This is the best time to take a few minutes to “clean up” the wiring and secure using supplied zip-ties.

IMPORTANT: Any slack in the speaker wires between the bike and the bags MUST be secured under the seat to eliminate the chance that the wires could become tangled in the bikes moving parts when riding!

Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel to each extreme side making sure any wiring is not impeding the steering of the motorcycle. Failure to do so can result in serious injury or death!

FINAL SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT

This kit has been designed to give great sound with the radio bass and treble controls in the middle position. Adjusting the bass and treble up or down no more than 3 bars from center will give excellent and reliable performance for most kinds of music. If you choose to exceed this suggestion and play at high volume levels, you may damage your system!

Inside the WBA 2694 box, there are 2 Wild Boar Audio metal badges that are meant to replace the Hogtunes badges that come on the Retro Lid-RM grills. Use a pick tool or something similar to carefully pry the 2 way tape on the Hogtunes badges off. The Wild Boar badges come with die cut adhesive already installed. Carefully peel off the backing and stick the Wild Boar badge to the grills.

Re-install the fairing and the system is now ready to enjoy!

WARRANTY INFORMATION

Wild Boar Audio branded speakers are warranted for a period of 5 years to the original purchaser. Wild Boar Audio branded amplifiers are warranted for a period of 3 years to the original purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims. Please contact Hogtunes head office for all warranty claims. Products found to be defective during the warranty period will be repaired or replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion. Hogtunes/Wild Boar Audio’s complete warranty policy is available on our website at www.hogtunes.com

What Is Not Covered:

1. Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of products.
2. Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes, Inc.
3. Subsequent damage to any other components.
4. Any product purchased from a non-authorized Wild Boar Audio dealer.
5. Damage to products from an accident or collision.
6. Damage from incorrect installation, improper use, abuse or modifications.
7. Reduction of FM reception.
8. Damage caused by incorrect factory radio “re-flash” and amp combination
9. Damage to inbound warranty product due to improper packing.

IMPORTANT: In the event of a warranty claim, please fill out the form in the Warranty section of our website www.hogtunes.com. Valid claims will have a Return

Authorization Number (RA#) generated which MUST appear on the outside of the box when it arrives to our offices.

Goods Arriving Without An RA# Will Be Refused!

Hogtunes products will play much louder than the Original Equipment, which can be a distraction to the rider and/or passenger. Please use caution when adjusting, or playing your stereo at high volume, ESPECIALLY IN TRAFFIC.

You are a valued customer so please:

Ride Alert
Arrive Alive!

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