SALTFIRE 5055683308177 Scout 4.1KW Multi Fuel Stove Instruction Manual
- June 4, 2024
- SALTFIRE
Table of Contents
Scout 4.1KW Multi Fuel Stove
Instruction Manual
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS.
INTRODUCTION
SAFETY
Safety is the most important consideration when using and installing your
stove. If not installed and used correctly, a house fire could result.
Installation must comply with relevant national and local Building Regulations
and fire safety standards.
IN THE EVENT OF A CHIMNEY FIRE, EVACUATE THE PROPERTY AND CALL THE EMERGENCY
SERVICES.
Your stove will be heavy, and care needs to be taken when lifting – 2 people
will normally be required to lift.
UNPACKING
Your stove will have several of its components stored inside the stove itself
for transportation.
The flue spigot can also be bolted to the flue outlet – the stove has two
options for flue outlet – one on the top and one at the rear. – Most people
use the top outlet but depending on where you intend to position the stove in
relation to your chimney, you may wish to use the rear outlet – in this case,
remove the blanking plate at the rear and secure it into the top outlet
instead.
Underneath the grate will also be an ash pan which will require regular
emptying.
You will also find a glove that must be used when opening the door or when
adjusting air vents when the fire is hot.
INSTALLATION
Installation of your stove must comply with relevant local and national
Building Regulations and fire safety standards.
TECHNICAL
Parameter | Scout |
---|---|
Heat Output Range, kW: | 2-5 |
**Wood Logs (Beech):** | |
Nominal Heat Output, kW: | 4.1 |
Efficiency at Nominal Output, %: | 75.4 |
Mean CO emission (at 13 % O2), %: | 0.10 |
Mean flue gas temperature, °C: | 246 |
Flue gas mass flow, g/s: | 5.1 |
Mean CnHm emission (at 13 % O2), Nmg/m3: | 93 |
Mean NOx emission (at 13 % O2), Nmg/m3: | 91 |
DIN Plus particulates (at 13 % O2), Nmg/m3: | 23 |
**Smokeless Coal (Maxibrite):** | |
Nominal Heat Output, kW: | 4.5 |
Efficiency at Nominal Output, %: | 79.2 |
Mean CO emission (at 13 % O2), %: | 0.09 |
Mean flue gas temperature, °C: | 263 |
Flue gas mass flow, g/s: | 4.1 |
Mean CnHm emission (at 13 % O2), Nmg/m3: | 45 |
Mean NOx emission (at 13 % O2), Nmg/m3: | 140 |
DIN Plus particulates (at 13 % O2), Nmg/m3: | 24 |
Minimum distance to combustible Back Wall, mm: (with included heat shield
fitted)| 100
Minimum distance to combustible Side Wall, mm:| 500
Suitable for 12mm hearth|
|
5” / 125mm flue size|
DEFRA Exempt for burning wood in Smoke Control Areas| **
EcoDesign 2022 Ready| **
clearSkies|
Direct Air option|
The stove must not be installed within the specified minimum distances to combustible materials as shown in the table above. Adjacent walls should be of non-combustible materials and construction, preferably masonry or brickwork.
When installed inside a fireplace recess (with solid non-combustible walls) we recommend a minimum 50mm clearance at the sides and rear of the stove to allow good air circulation and achieve the best performance.
Note: The Scout model has been designed to fit safely inside a 16” (406mm) wide fireplace opening. In this case, the clearance will be less than the 50mm suggested above, but this is still acceptable on this model.
Your stove will require a constant air supply and should not be used at the same time and in the same room/space as extractor fans or any device which may draw air supply away from the stove.
The stove should be installed on a level floor with adequate load-bearing
capacity. The stove needs to stand on a hearth of non-combustible materials
not less than 12mm thick
conforming to Building Regulations.
A Carbon Monoxide detector must be fitted in the same room as the appliance.
NOT suitable for installation in a shared flue system.
If installed in a standard-type chimney, a register plate needs to be fitted
inside the chimney.
When purchasing a flue pipe, a 5” diameter is required. The flue pipe must be
fitted INSIDE the flue spigot and sealed with a generous amount of Fire
Cement.
Access should be provided for cleaning the flue gas connector and chimney flue
to ensure that the passageways for exhaust gases remain free from obstruction.
We recommend that you have a qualified fitter install your stove, e.g.
registered with HETAS or OFTEC.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
“The Clean Air Act 1993 and Smoke Control Areas”
Under the Clean Air Act, local authorities may declare the whole or part of
the district of the authority to be a smoke control area. It is an offense to
emit smoke from a chimney of a building, from a furnace, or from any fixed
boiler if located in a designated smoke control area. It is also an offense to
acquire an “unauthorized fuel” for use within a smoke control area unless it
is used in an “exempt” appliance (“exempted” from the controls which generally
apply in the smoke control area).
In England, appliances are exempted by publication on a list by the Secretary
of State in accordance with changes made to sections 20 and 21 of the Clean
Air Act 1993 by section 15 of the Deregulation Act 2015. Similarly, in
Scotland appliances are exempted from publication on a list by Scottish
Ministers under section 50 of the Regulatory Reform (Scotland) Act 2014.
In Wales and Northern Ireland, these are authorized by regulations made by
Welsh Ministers and by the Department of the Environment respectively.
Further information on the requirements of the Clean Air Act can be found
here: https://www.gov.uk/smoke-control-area-rules
Your local authority is responsible for implementing the Clean Air Act 1993
including designation and supervision of smoke control areas and you can
contact them for details of Clean Air Act requirements”
“The Saltfire Scout has been recommended as suitable for use in smoke control
areas when burning wood.
Refueling onto a low fire bed
If there is insufficient burning material in the fire-bed to light a new fuel
charge, excessive smoke emission can occur. Refueling must be carried out onto
a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash that the new fuel charge will
ignite in a reasonable period. If there are too few embers in the fire bed,
add suitable kindling to prevent excessive smoke.
Fuel overloading
The maximum amount of fuel specified in this manual should not be exceeded,
overloading can cause excess smoke.
Operation with the door left open
Operation with the door open can cause excess smoke. The appliance must not be
operated with the appliance door left open except as directed in the
instructions.
Dampers left open
Operation with the air controls or appliance dampers open can cause excess
smoke. The appliance must not be operated with air controls, appliance
dampers, or a door left open except as directed in the instructions.
FUEL
Wood- All types of wood are suitable provided they are well seasoned,
UNTREATED, and have a moisture level between 12% and 20%. For softwoods,
typically they will need to have been left in suitable storage for 9+ months
in order for the moisture to evaporate. For hardwoods, this will usually be 18
months+. It is recommended that logs should be no more than 4” or 125mm in
diameter.
If you are unsure of the moisture content of your fuel, then you can buy a
moisture meter which will indicate the moisture levels in your fuel.
Liquid fuels must NEVER be used.
WARNING: Wet timber should not be used as this will create excess tar
deposits in the chimney and stove and could increase the risk of a chimney
fire. Timber that is not of suitable moisture content will also create more
smoke and harmful emissions.
The Scout is Multifuel capable – as well as the wood it can burn suitable
smokeless coal such as Anthracite.
Only fuels suitable for / tested and certified for use on closed stoves can be
used.
Never attempt to burn Housecoal, Petroleum Coke, or Bituminous Coal.
Never use your stove as an incinerator to burn waste or rubbish. Never burn
Petro-Coke or coals designed only for open fires.
Distance to combustible Materials
The Scout is supplied with a double-walled heat shield fitted to the back of
the stove. This means the stove can be positioned relatively close to a
combustible wall surface behind.
When positioned close to a combustible wall and if using the Top Flue Outlet
on the stove you should fit the additional small heatshield to protect the
wall from direct heat from the collar on top of the stove:
(if the wall behind the stove is solid and non-combustible then this does not
need to be fitted).
Direct Air Connection – Optional
The Scout has the option of Direct Air – this allows the stove to receive
air for combustion from outside of the room. To use this feature you require
the optional Direct Air Box (which can be ordered with the stove or purchased
separately). To fit the Direct Air Box – remove the rear heat shields, break
out the knock-out sections, fix the Direct Ait Box to the back of the stove,
and replace the heat shields:
AIR INLET CONTROLS
Your stove has two air inlet controls – see diagram
above.
The knob under the door on the Left provides Primary air from underneath the
grate – this is the primary source of air supply for combustion. Pulling this
knob out increases the amount of Primary airflow into the stove. This vent
will normally be open when first lighting the stove. Once the fire is well
established (see instructions below) this vent should be closed (when burning
wood).
If burning suitable smokeless coal the Primary vent will need to be kept
partly open to provide air under the grate.
The Secondary vent provides air supply for the air-wash system and allows air
into the higher areas of the fire box – this is called the Secondary air –
When this vent is open, the door glass is kept clean by high-speed air rushing
downwards across the inside of the glass. By pulling the Secondary vent knob
out away from the stove, airflow into the stove is increased. Push in to
reduce airflow. This vent is fitted with a mechanical stop to prevent it from
being fully closed (see below*). Once the fire is established, this will be
your main control over the burn rate and heat output.
The Secondary vent also controls the Tertiary air the air is channeled through
a chamber at the rear of the stove and to the rear of the firebox and enters
the firebox via a series of small holes in the back wall of the stove. This
air inlet helps to ensure thorough and clean combustion. – If you find the
fire is burning too quickly, this vent can be shut down almost completely,
though it is designed to always ‘bleed’ a minimal amount of air in for clean
burning.
*DEFRA vent stop latch
If burning wood in a smoke control area the air vents must always allow a
certain amount of air into the firebox to ensure clean combustion. This is
ensured by the positioning of a “stop” catch under the stove which prevents
the Secondary control from fully closing. If you are NOT in a smoke control
area, or will only burn smokeless fuel you can release this catch to allow the
vent to fully close (this will allow the stove burn rate to be further
reduced).
The Entire Stove Will Become
HOT!
The glove is provided for adjusting the air inlets and for opening the door
when the stove is hot, as these knobs will heat up when in use.
NOTE – all parts of the stove will become hot during use and care needs
to be taken to avoid injury through burning.
LIGHTING THE FIRE
- Prior to lighting the fire for the first time, ensure that-
- Installation and building work are complete.
- The chimney is suitable and sound and has been swept and free from obstruction.
- Adequate ventilation and provision for combustion air have been made.
- That the stove installation has been carried out in accordance with Building Regulations and any applicable local regulations as well as these installation instructions.
- That chimney draw has been checked and is within specification. (The stove has been tested at the nominal output with a flue draught of 12 Pa)
ESSENTIAL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USE – It is essential to follow these ‘
tempering in instructions in order to avoid serious damage to your stove. The
castings of your stove require very gentle ‘normalizing’ to release stresses
in the metal formed during the casting process. The high-temperature paint
finish also requires curing: –
Initial paint curing:
Note: NEVER wipe the stove in the early stages (prior to paint fully curing),
as the paint will be very soft and will damage easily. NEVER attempt to clean
or wipe the paint surface when warm or hot. Please read the following and
follow thoroughly.
The stove is finished in the specialist high-temperature coating which is air-
dry but not yet cured. The stove should be brought up to temperature gradually
over the course of several fires to complete this process. If the stove gets
too hot or not hot enough during this process, then the curing process can
fail to cause issues with the paint surface.
- For the first three fires (all on the same night), use KINDLING ONLY, with each burning for 15-20 minutes and each fire using approx 500 grams of kindling. Start the second and third kindling fires whilst the fire is still warm from previous fires, but with around 30 minutes of cooling time in between. Once the three kindling fires have burnt through, and whilst the stove is still warm, but slightly cooled, light a normal fire with three dry logs weighing around 1.2 kgs in total. This fire should burn for between 45 and 60 minutes. Now allow to FULLY COOL naturally. The paint should now be cured.
- Once the curing process has been completed satisfactorily, normal fires can be lit –
Next Stage – stove tempering:
For the first 3 hours of burning use just small wood fires, then for the next
15-20 hours, total burn time, fires must be very gently increased in
temperature and log size and load and NO SOLID FUELS (products other than
wood) must be used during this period. A stove thermometer will be a valuable
tool in helping you to achieve this and to ensure an efficient burn rate in
the future. After these small fires, gently increase fires over the course of
a week or so. Starting a large fire too soon is likely to damage the stove in
which case will not be covered by the warranty.
ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE READ AND UNDERSTOOD THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE LIGHTING
THE FIRE AND THAT YOU ARE CONFIDENT THE STOVE HAS BEEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY.
ALWAYS WEAR A PROTECTIVE GLOVE WHEN REFUELLING YOUR STOVE.
Ignition (FOLLOW INITIAL TEMPERING INSTRUCTIONS FIRST TO AVOID DAMAGE)
- Ensure the ash pan is in place.
- Ensure all air inlets are fully open
- Construct a pile of kindling in the middle of the grate using approximately 1kg of kindling wood
- Light with a single chemical firelighter
- Partially shut the door but left it cracked open slightly
- After about 5 minutes or when the fire is well established, shut the door
- After a further 3-5 minutes as the fire starts to die, add a further three larger pieces of wood weighing approx 1kg.
- Once these logs are alight, and after about 7 minutes or so, a normal load of 2 or 3 logs weighing up to 1kg in total can be added (ONLY AFTER THE INITIAL TEMPERING PERIOD HAS BEEN FOLLOWED – SEE ABOVE)
- Once this load is burning well, the Primary air vent should be closed, with the Secondary and Tertiary vents left open, as much as necessary to achieve the desired burn rate.
Refueling
- Open the Primary air vents
- Add up to 1kg of wood
- After about 2 to 3 minutes or when flames from the fresh fuel are fully established, close the Primary vents
- At high power output, your stove will require refueling approximately every hour.
- It is important to follow these instructions in order to achieve clean burning and maximize the efficiency of the stove
- Do not leave the fire unattended until flames are well established on the newly charged logs
- Always refuel onto hot embers.
- If the fire has died out at the point of refueling, use kindling to re-establish the fire and follow the “Ignition” procedure above.
- It is important that the stove is not overloaded with fuel.
- Reduced burn rates can be achieved by reducing the openings of the Secondary and Tertiary air vents.
- Operation with the door open can cause excessive smoke. The appliance must not be operated with the door left open except as directed in the instructions above.
UK Clean Air Act 1993 – Smoke Control Areas
The Saltfire Scout wood-burning stove is suitable for use in smoke control
areas when used in accordance with these instructions.
WARNING- The high-temperature paint covering the stove will give off some
fumes during the initial few uses of the stove. The fumes are non-toxic, but
some people may find them unpleasant – Ensure the area is well ventilated
during this period.
The higher nominal output rating of this stove is based on around 1kg of
seasoned logs which would require refueling every 45 minutes.
This stove is suitable for intermittent burning and should not be used
constantly for extended periods. Not suitable for overnight burning.
Under certain abnormal weather conditions, e.g. down draughts, it may be
difficult to get sufficient draw through the appliance to achieve good
combustion. When this happens, the stove should not be used.
CLEANING/MAINTENANCE
Regular cleaning of the stove is essential for safety and efficiency. The ash
pan should be checked/ emptied at least after every use, and during use, if
burning for longer periods. Extra care must be taken when removing warm or hot
ashes.
Step-by-step maintenance instructions:
-
A minimum of once per year the flue system should be cleaned/swept by a qualified chimney sweep or suitably qualified stove installer. The servicing of the appliance can usually be carried out at the same time. Whether the system needs sweeping more frequently than this will depend on use.
-
Baffle plates should be removed and checked for debris twice a year as a minimum depending on use. Warped/misshapen baffle plates can be a warning sign that the stove has been over-fired (allowed to excessively heat on one or more occasions).
-
Once removed, brush the baffle using a stiff brush or wire brush to remove any deposits. Clear any debris from the upper parts of the stove above where the baffles normally sit.
-
Inspect firebricks on both the sides, rear, and base for cracks – (some are normal and not a fault. Nor are they detrimental to the workings of the stove, however it is good practice to be aware as any develop and over time if they worsen, they may need replacing). If you feel a crack in the firebrick is just cosmetically unsightly it can be filled with a small amount of fire cement.
-
Vacuum or brush out the inner stove box thoroughly.
-
Visually check that the glass is still making a good seal against its rope on the inside of the door frame and that its retaining clips remain firmly in place to the touch.
-
Check that the door is making a good seal with the body of the stove all around (over time the rope will flatten out and lose some flexibility – when this happens and when it is no longer sealing fully all the way round, it needs to be replaced). The rope size used here is a 10mm-Soft type.
-
Blemishes or scratches to the paintwork can be touched up using a suitable high-temperature stove paint in a spray can. Ensure the stove is cool and clean before applying and follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions. Contact Saltfire Stoves directly if you are unsure which paint to use.
Throughout the season, it is good practice to keep the stove in generally good clean order which will prolong the life of serviceable components and enhance the experience you have with your fire. -
NEVER wipe the stove in the early stages (prior to paint fully curing), as the paint will be very soft and will damage easily.
-
To keep the outer body clean, simply dust over with a clean soft duster when cold.
-
If there are marks that cannot be removed with a duster, use a slightly moistened cloth very gently, but only when the stove is cool and has not been in use. Then pat dry with an absorbent paper towel.
-
Regularly vacuum soot and dust from around the inside of the door and around the glass and rope seals.
-
If the glass gets dirty on the inside from soot, clean with liquid ‘stove glass cleaner’ and a soft cloth OR with an “Atmosfire Dry Wiper”, produced by Schott, (manufacturers of stove glass), and available online. Do this as soon as possible once the soot appears, but only when the fire is completely cool. Never use newspaper or soot or any other abrasive or cleaning method on the glass.
If the glass becomes stained from the inside, the air-wash vent may need to be
opened more during use. (See ‘troubleshooting guide’ for other possible
causes).
The high-temperature paint in which your stove is finished should last several
years with normal use, but when it does eventually require re-finishing, black
heat-resistant paint in spray cans can be purchased from most hardware stores.
– Do not use regular paint which is not high temperature resistant.
After prolonged periods of not using the fire, the stove and flue system
should be checked for blockages prior to re-lighting.
We recommend regular servicing and safety checks are carried out by a
qualified engineer.
There must be no unauthorized modification of the appliance. Use only
replacement parts recommended by the manufacturer.
**Troubleshooting Solutions For Stove Problems
**
Installed and used correctly your stove will provide years of warmth with
little effort, but used incorrectly will be difficult to achieve the results
you expect and can be damaged.
Combustion is a complex chemical process with many variables, all of which
need to be correct for your stove to burn correctly. Taking the time to
understand these variables and the combustion process will make your life with
your new stove a happy one.
1. Stove is difficult to light/keep lit
Common causes:
a. Damp fuel – Wood should be maximum of 20% moisture and ideally
12-15%. We strongly advise purchasing a digital moisture meter to test your
logs. Always split logs in half and test the center of the log.
b. Poor draught and chimney strength – Your chimney needs to pull
through adequate air for combustion. Flue draught should be between 12Pa and
18Pa – if in doubt consult a local expert.
c. Logs too big – Always start fires small and gradually build them up.
Begin with paper or solid firelighters, building a small fire with kindling
(small sticks of wood) until the kindling is well alight and hot. Then
gradually build the fire with your wood logs (not too thick). (Splitting the
logs will increase the surface area allowing more thorough burning). Once the
firebox is up to temperature, slightly larger logs can be added.
d. Chimney/flue blocked – Excessive soot should not be allowed to build
up in the flue – flues should be professionally cleaned when required and, in
any case, at least once per year, or more if your chimney/fuel type is causing
excessive soot build up.
2. Fuel burns too quickly
The rated output on your stove is based on burning dry seasoned hardwood and
re-fuelling every hour. By turning down the vent controls the fuel will burn
slower and last longer.
Common causes:
a. Excessively strong chimney draught – If by turning down the vents the
fire still burns too quickly, this is normally due to excessively strong
draught on the chimney. This will lead to over-firing of the stove which is
inefficient, losing excessive heat into the chimney and pulling too much cold
air through the house. A flue damper fitted into the first section of the flue
pipe can help to calm a chimney draught.
b. Fuel type/size – try experimenting with different types of wood/fuel
and different-sized logs. Coal and slightly larger logs will burn slower.
Softwood such as pine will burn particularly fast. Ideally use seasoned,
naturally dried logs (hardwood) where possible.
3. Smoke comes back into the room
A small amount of smoke entering the room when you open the stove door is
normal but should stop after a few seconds….
If smoke ever leaks constantly into the room stop using the fire immediately,
shut down all vents on the stove, open windows, and exit the room. Do not use
the stove until a local expert has established the problem.
Common causes:
a. Insufficient air supply into the room – do you have an air brick of
sufficient size to feed the stove with air?
b. Blocked chimney – have the chimney swept and checked by a registered
chimney sweep.
c. Insufficient chimney draught – can be due to a variety of reasons –
please refer to the previous text under “Poor draught and chimney strength”
d. Rapid condensation of the gases – causing them to slow down and back
up in the chimney – this can be due to too broad a chimney/flue, relative to
the size of the appliance or the flue not being adequately insulated. You may
need a flue liner and/or insulation in the chimney.
4. Glass gets dirty quickly
Common causes:
a. Top vents not open – Your stove has a top vent this controls the
Airwash system – the top vent needs to be constantly open adequately to ensure
enough air is coming into the stove. No Airwash will work fully when the stove
is burning very slowly (slumbering).
b. Primary Vent left open – Primary vent when left open will interfere
with the operation of the Secondary (Airwash), causing blackening of the
window. Always shut Primary once the fire is established, and only ever open
as much as necessary to get the fire going or to give a short ‘boost’ to new
wood when refueling.
c. Poor fuel – wet wood or softwood (e.g. pine) will produce a lot of
tar, creosote, and soot, dirtying the glass and eventually blocking the flue.
d. Insufficient chimney draught – see previous note under “Poor draught
and chimney strength”.
e. Baffle plates incorrectly fitted – see the previous diagram for
correct positioning of baffles.
f. Fuel loaded too close to the window – The wood needs a good clear
distance away from the glass – otherwise it will produce thick black marks on
the glass and interfere with the Airwash airflow.
5. Not enough heat being produced
Common causes:
a. Poor quality fuel – logs should be dry well seasoned hardwood.
b. Poor draught and chimney strength – see previous notes.
c. Excessive draught – too much heat being lost up the chimney – try a
damper in the flue.
d. Insufficient air supply – Check the air supply is sufficient / the
vents on the stove are clear. Does the room have a vent?
e. Not enough fuel being burned – the rated output of your stove is based
on burning beech wood (typical of most hardwoods), refueling once per hour.
1kg of this wood has approximately 4-5 kW hours of energy.
f. Larger stove/stove with higher output required for room size.
6. Too much heat in the room
Common causes:
a. Excessive chimney draw – try fitting a damper unit in flue
b. Too much air supply – close down the primary vent, then if still too
hot reduce tertiary and secondary vents.
c. Stove may be too large for room size.
7. Grate deformed / Baffle plate deformed
Your stove will have been designed to operate correctly for many years with a
relevant quantity of fuel and re-loading times. The grate and baffle plate can
over time start to bow/deform – this can only be caused by very high
temperatures. Using Solid Fuel products can accelerate this process but
burning wood at too high a temperature can also cause damage to internal
parts.
Common causes:
a. Excessive chimney draw – try a damper in the flue.
b. Excessive primary air supply – close down primary vents.
c. Incorrect fuel – NEVER use Petroleum Coke, Bituminous fuel, Housecoal,
or any unauthorized fuel.
d. Stove overloaded – excessive burning of too much fuel.
The baffle plate and the inner linings of the stove, and the grate are all
designed to be replaceable parts – call us if you need to order new ones.
What to do in the event of a chimney fire:-
- cut off the air supply to the stove, i.e. close the primary and secondary air supplies
- move any combustible materials well away from the stove
- get everyone out safely
- make sure that the fire brigade has clear access
- call 999
If you have any questions or concerns regarding the safe use of your stove,
please contact us: – Saltfire Stoves Ltd, Station Works, John’s Road, Wareham,
Dorset, BH20 4BG, 01929 555211,
enquiries@saltfirestoves.com
© Copyright – Saltfire Stoves Ltd 2021
Warranty
When purchased new from either Saltfire Stoves directly, or an Authorised
Saltfire Retailer your new stove includes an Extended 3-year limited warranty
on the main body of the stove.
Details of Authorised Retailers can be found at
www.saltfire.co.uk
Your warranty needs to be registered within 30 days of purchase and will be
effective from the date of purchase.
Failure to register on time will reduce the warranty period to 12 months.
To register, please send an email to
enquiries@saltfire.co.uk. Please
include your name, address of installation, model, date of installation,
Installer details, and retailer details (where you purchased the stove and the
date of purchase). We will confirm your registration by email, so if posting
your registration, please ensure to include your email address. If you do not
register in time or have not purchased through an Authorised Retailer don’t
worry – our stoves are built to last and you are unlikely to have any issues.
In the unlikely event, you encounter any problems, we will still be here to
help.
The Warranty is valid for the first owner at the first installed location only
(not transferable).
To qualify, the appliance must be installed to the relevant Building
Regulations standards by a suitably trained competent person (such as a HETAS
installer in the UK).
The original Certificate of installation and the commissioning report needs to
be kept for reference in the event of a warranty claim.
Original Proof of Purchase (receipt or invoice) must be kept for reference and
proof.
Any use of the appliance contrary to any instructions in this manual will
invalidate the warranty.
The 3-year Extended Warranty guarantees the main stove body to be free of
manufacturing defects for this period.
Excluded from any warranty are:
- Paint finish discoloration can occur normally and is not considered a fault. Paint that has failed to cure properly due to initial over or under firing is excluded from the warranty.
- Consumable items include but are not limited to internal firebricks, glass, baffle plates, grates, log retaining bars, paint and surface finishes, and door and glass rope seals.
- Damage caused by incorrect use, incorrect/ non-recommended fuel, over-firing, or poor maintenance will not be covered and will invalidate the warranty.
- Damage caused by unauthorized modifications or repairs.
- Faults or defects caused by local specific conditions such as draught problems or chimney defects.
- Damage caused by corrosion due to the appliance being stored in unheated damp environments or by excessive moisture ingress via a flue system.
- Warranty claims are limited to the repair or supply of replacement parts or entire appliance where necessary (to be determined by Saltfire) including shipping costs of the replacement/ repaired part (UK mainland), and fitment of the replaced or repaired part if required, at the Saltfire factory. This is not an ‘onsite’ warranty and any installation or removal costs or incidental costs will neither be covered nor accepted. The customer is responsible for returning the damaged part to our factory when requested to do so In the event of a successful warranty claim Saltfire reserve the right to either replace, repair, or refund the purchase price of the goods in question.
- Replaced or repaired parts are covered for the remainder of the Warranty period.
Should you encounter any problems with your system and if there is any doubt as to the cause of the issue, first contact your installer. If the appliance is suspected to be at fault, contact your Saltfire Retailer from whom you purchased the appliance – They will be able to help you quickly or contact us at Saltfire on your behalf. You will need to provide a copy of your original sales receipt, installation certificate (i.e. from HETAS)/or Building Control Certificate, and Service Record.
Installer Name and HETAS no………………………
Enter Model Name………………………………………..
Enter Installation Date………………………………….
Enter Installation Address……………………………
Service Records (to be completed by Service Engineer)
1st SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due……….
Details of Service work completed:
Signed………
Dealer’s Stamp/H ETAS Registration Number:| 2nd SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/H ETAS Registration Number:
---|---
3rd SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/H ETAS Registration Number:| 4th SERVICE
Date of Service-……..
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/H ETAS Registration Number:
5th SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/H ETAS Registration Number:| 6th SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed-……..
Dealer’s Stamp/HETAS Registration Number:
7th SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/HETAS Registration Number:| 8th SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/HETAS Registration Number:
9th SERVICE
Date of Service-……..
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/HETAS Registration Number:| 10th SERVICE
Date of Service………
Next Service Due………
Details of Service work completed:
Signed:……..
Dealer’s Stamp/HETAS Registration Number:
References
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>