Simer 2845G 1/2 HP 4 Inch Submersible Well Pump Owner’s Manual

OWNER’S MANUAL
Submersible Pumps
Two and Three Wire, ¹⁄² thru 1 ¹⁄²HP, 60 Hz.

2845G 1/2 HP 4 Inch Submersible Well Pump

For further operating, installation, or maintenance assistance:
Carefully read and follow all safety instructions in this manual or on pump.
This is the safety-alert. When you see this symbol on your pump or in this manual, look for one of the following signal words and be alert to the potential for personal injury.
warns about hazards that will cause serious personal injury, death or major property damage if ignored.
warns about hazards that can cause serious personal injury, death or major property damage if ignored.
warns about hazards that will or can cause minor personal injury or property damage if ignored.
The word NOTICE indicates special instructions which are important but not related to hazards. To avoid serious or fatal personal injury and possible property damage, carefully read and follow the safety instructions.

1. Hazardous pressure. Under certain conditions, submersible pumps can develop extremely high pressure. Install a pressure relief valve capable of passing entire pump flow at 75 PSI (517 kPa) when using an air over water pressure tank. Install a pressure relief valve capable of passing entire pump flow at 100 PSI (690 kPa) when using a precharged pressure tank.
   Do not allow pump, pressure tank, piping, or any other system component containing water to freeze. Freezing may damage system, leading to injury or flooding. Allowing pump or system components to freeze will void warranty.

2. Hazardous voltage. Can shock, burn or cause death. To avoid dangerous or fatal electric shock hazard, use pump only in a water well.
   Risk of dangerous or fatal electrical shock. Do not install this pump in any pond, river, or other open body of water that could be used for swimming or recreation. Do not swim, wade or play in a body of water in which a submersible pump has been installed.
   Install, ground and wire pump according to local code and National Electrical Code requirements.
   Disconnect electrical power supply before installing or servicing pump.
   Make sure line voltage and frequency of power supply match motor nameplate voltage and frequency.

3. Install pump according to all plumbing, pump and well code requirements.

4. Test well water for purity before using well.
   Call your local health department for testing procedure.

5. During installation, keep well covered as much as possible to prevent leaves and foreign matter from falling into well. Foreign objects in well can contaminate the water and cause serious mechanical damage to the pump.

6. Pipe joint compound can cause cracking in plastics. Use only teflon tape when sealing joints in plastic pipe or connecting pipe to thermoplastic pumps.

PRE-INSTALLATION

Inspect pump and motor for delivery damage.
Report any damage immediately to the shipping carrier or to your dealer.
The well driller should thoroughly develop the well (that is, pump out all fine sand and foreign matter) before pump is installed. See Initial Start-Up, Page 6.
Pump performance is based on pumping clear, cold, liquid water with no entrained air.
Warranty is void in the following conditions:

• If pump has pumped excessive sand – excessive sand can cause premature wear to pump.
• If water is corrosive.
• If entrained gas or air are present in the water being pumped – these can reduce flow and cause cavitation which can damage pump.
• If pump has been operated with discharge valve closed – severe internal damage will result.

Install pump at least 15 to 20′ (4.5 to 6 M) below the lowest water level reached with pump running (lowest draw-down water level), and at least 5′ (1.5M) above the bottom of the well.
GROUNDING:
Hazardous voltage. Can shock, burn, or cause death. Permanently ground pump, motor and control box before connecting power supply to motor. Ground pump and motor in accordance with the local codes and ordinances. Use a copper ground wire at least as large as wires carrying current to motor.
Motor is supplied with a copper ground wire.
Splice this ground wire to a copper conductor that matches motor wire size specified in Table III. See Page 5 for wire splicing instructions.
Permanently ground pump, motor and control box before connecting power cable to power supply. Connect ground wire to approved ground first and then connect to equipment being installed.
Do not ground to a gas supply line.
Fire and electrical shock hazard.
If using a drop wire larger than No. 10 (5.5mm 2 ) (for example, No. 8 (8.4mm 2 ) wire) between pump and control box, run wire to a separate junction box. Connect junction box to control box with a No. 10 (5.5mm 2 ) or smaller wire (depending on amp rating of pump – see Table III). For more information, contact your local code officials.
WIRING CONNECTIONS:
All wiring must meet National Electrical Code or Canadian Electrical Code and local code requirements.
Use only copper wire when making connections to pump and control box.
To avoid over-heating wire and excessive voltage drop at motor, be sure that wire size is at least as large as size listed in Table III for your horsepower pump and length of wire run.
NOTICE: When built-in overheating protection not provided, use with an approved overload equipped motor control that matches motor input in full load amps. Select or adjust overload element(s) in accordance with control instructions. When built-in overheating protection is provided, use with an approved motor control that matches motor input in full load amperes.
TABLE I: Recommended Fusing Data – 60 Hz., Single Phase, 3 Wire Submersible Pump Motors

TABLE II: Recommended Fusing Data – 60 Hz., Single Phase 2 Wire Submersible Pump Motors

INSTALLATION WIRING DIAGRAMS SINGLE PHASE, 3 WIRE
For motors of 1 1 ⁄2 HP and above, use magnetic starter to avoid damage to pressure switch. Consult factory for wiring information. See Page 4 for 2 Wire Hookup.
Hazardous voltage. Can shock, burn, or kill.
Ground control box, all metal plumbing, and motor frame with copper wire in compliance with local codes. Use a ground wire at least as large as the wires supplying power to motor. Permanently close all unused openings in this and other equipment.
Disconnect power to control box before working on or around control box, pipes, cable, pump, or motor.
TABLE IIIA: Copper Cable Length in Feet (Service to Motor)
1 Phase, 3- or 2-Wire Cable, 60 Hz. Wire Size

TABLE IIIB: Copper Cable Length in Meters (Service to Motor)
1 Phase, 3- or 2- Wire Cable, 60 Hz. Wire Size in mm²

All cable lengths meet NEC for jacketed 60°C copper cable. Based on 3-Wire Induction Run requirements; Capacitor Run requirements may vary. Local code requirements may vary. For aluminium cable, go up two sizes from chart (for example, if the chart calls for No. 10 AWG (6mm 2 ) for copper, go to No. 8 AWG (10mm 2 ) for aluminum; the smaller the number, the larger the cable). Use oxidation inhibitors on the connections.
To be sure that starting relay will function and that overload will not “nuisance trip”, install control box vertically with top side up.
Wire control box as shown in Figures 1A and 1B. A 3-wire pump will not operate without control box. Operation without control box will burn out 3 wire motor.
Installation must include circuit and component protection which meet local code and United States National Electrical Code requirements.
If main overload trips, look for:

1. Shorted Capacitor
2. Voltage Problems
3. Overloaded or locked pump.

NOTICE: Match motor to control box as shown below. Motor and control box model numbers may include additional suffix numbers to the right of the numbers shown here. These additional numbers are not important for control box selection.
TABLE IV: Control Box Selection

FIGURE 1A – 3-wire quick disconnect box. Follow color coding when connecting control box (Yellow to Y, Red to R, Black to B).

FIGURE 1B – Single phase, 2-wire connections. 2-wire pumps have two power supply wire (Red/Black) and one ground wire (Green). Control box is not required.
This is correct connection information for 115 and 230 volt 2-wire motors only.

Installation

WIRE SPLICING:

1. Splice wire to motor leads. Use only copper wire for connections to pump motor and control box.
   1. Taped splice (Wire sizes No. 8 (8.4mm 2 ) and larger):
   A. Cut off motor leads. Stagger lead and wire length so that 2nd lead is 2″ (50mm) longer than 1st lead and 3rd lead is 2″ (50mm) longer than second.
   B. Match colors and lengths of wires to colors and lengths of motor leads.
   C. Trim insulation back 1/2″ (13mm) from cable ends and motor lead ends.
   D.Insert motor lead ends and cable ends into butt connector (see Figure 2). Match wire colors between supply wires and motor leads.
   E. Using crimping pliers (Figure 5), indent butt connector lugs.
   F. Cut “Scotchfil” electrical insulation putty into 3 equal parts and form tightly around butt connectors. Be sure scotchfil overlaps insulated part of wire.G. Using #33 Scotch tape, wrap each joint tightly; cover wire for about 1½” (38mm) on each side of joint. Make four passes with the tape. In other words, when  inished you should have four layers of tape tightly wrapped around the wire.
   Press edges of tape firmly down against the wire (see Figure 6).
   NOTICE: Since the tightly wound tape is the only means of keeping water out of the splice, the efficiency of the splice will depend on the care used in wrapping the tape.
   NOTICE: For wire sizes larger than #8, (7mm 2 ) use a soldered joint rather than Scotchfil putty (see Figure 4).
   2. Heat-shrink splice (For wire sizes #14, 12 and 10 AWG, or 2, 3, and 5.5mm 2 ): A. Remove 3/8″ (9.5mm) insulation from ends of motor leads and power supply wires.
   B. Put plastic heat shrink tubing over motor leads between power supply and motor (see Figure 7).
   C. Match wire colors and lengths between power supply and motor.
   D.Insert supply wire and lead ends into butt connector and crimp (See Figures 2 and 3). Match wire colors between power supply and motor. Pull leads to check connections.
   E. Center tubing over butt connector and apply heat evenly with a torch (a match or lighter will not supply enough heat).
   NOTICE: Keep torch moving. Too much concentrated heat may damage tubing (see Figure 7).

2. Mechanical Splice Kit with plastic insulators (for 14, 12 and 10 Gauge AWG Wire, or 2, 3 and 5.5mm 2 wire):
   A. Cut off motor leads. Stagger lead and wire length so that  nd lead is 4″ (101.6mm) longer than 1st lead and 3rd lead is 4″ (101.6mm) longer than second.
   B. Cut off wire ends. Match colors and lengths of power supply wires to colors and lengths of motor leads.
   C. Trim insulation back 1/2″ (13mm) from cable ends and motor lead ends.
   D.Unscrew plastic caps from insulators. Place a cap and a neoprene gasket sleeve on each wire end to be spliced (see Figure 8).
   E. Slide insulator body onto one wire end (Figure 8).
   F. Insert wire end into butt connector and crimp. Match cable and motor wire colors (see Figure 9).
   G. Center insulator body over splice and slide neoprene sleeves into body as far as they will go. Screw caps onto insulator body (Figure 10) and tighten by hand for a strong, waterproof splice.

POWER SUPPLY WIRE INSTALLATION

1. To test submersible, momentarily (no more than 30 seconds) connect it to proper power supply. Power supply frequency and voltage must match motor nameplate frequency and voltage to within ±10%.

2. Fasten power supply wires leads securely to pump discharge section; leave 4-5″ (100125mm) of slack in leads at this point.
   Securely fasten leads to plastic pipe within 6″ (150mm) of the pump discharge section. Use centering guides to protect wire and pipe from rubbing the well casing.

3. Connect copper ground wire to motor bracket. Ground wire must be at least as large as wires supplying current to motor. Consult local codes for grounding information.

4. Use only submersible power supply wires supplied by pump manufacturer. When lowering pump into well, secure supply wires to discharge pipe at 10′ (3.5M) intervals with Scotch #33 electrical tape.
   DO NOT damage pump wires.
   NOTICE: To avoid dropping the pump down the well or damaging cable or cable splices, NEVER allow pump cable to support weight of pump.

PUMP INSTALLATION

1. If a standard air over water pressure tank is used, install two bleeder orifices about 2′ (.6M) apart as shown in Figure 13, Page 9. Orifices will automatically charge the tank with air. See Figure 13 to determine orifice location.
   NOTICE: If Pre-charged tank is used, DO
   NOT install bleeder orifices. If pump and precharged tank are replacing a standard tank system, remove bleeder orifices before installing pump in well.

2. To prevent losing pump down the well, connect a safety rope strong enough to support pump and drop pipe (minimum 5/16″ (8mm) twisted polypropylene or pronila  ope) to eyelet on pump discharge. Tie off other end of safety rope securely to well seal, well cap or pitless adapter.

3. Discharge outlet is 1¼ NPT threaded.
   Use 100 PSI rated polyethylene plastic pipe for installations up to 100’ (30.5M) depth.
   Use 160 PSI rated polyethylene plastic pipe for installation up to 220’ (67.1M) depth.
   For depths beyond 220’ (67.1M), use galvanized steel pipe for the entire drop pipe.

INITIAL START-UP/NEW WELLS
NOTICE: NEVER operate pump with discharge valve completely closed. Pump can destroy itself if run with discharge shut off (“deadheaded”) and warranty will be void.
NOTICE: To avoid sand-locking pump, follow procedure below when starting pump for the first time. NEVER start a pump with discharge completely open unless you have done this procedure first.

1. Connect a pipe elbow, a short length of pipe and a gate valve to pump discharge at well head (see Figure 11).

2. Mount motor control box (3-wire pump) or fused disconnect switch (2-wire pump) in a permanently weather proof place. Make sure that controls will not be subjected to extreme heat or excess moisture.

3. Make sure controls are in OFF position.

4. Connect motor leads and power supply wires to motor control box or magnetic starter (see Wiring Diagrams). DO NOT
   START PUMP YET.

5. Set gate valve on discharge 1/3 open; start pump (see Figure 11).

6. Keep gate valve at this setting while water pumps out onto ground. Let it run until water is clear of sand or silt. (To check solids in water, fill a glass from pump and let solids settle out).

7. When water is completely clear at 1/3 setting, open gate valve to approximately twothirds open and repeat process.

8. When water is completely clear at 2/3 setting, open gate valve completely and run pump until water is completely clear.

9. Remove gate valve for permanent installation near tank (see Figures 12 and 13, Pages 8 and 9).

10. Install sanitary well seal or pitless adapter unit, well unit, electrical conduit and surface piping according to local code requirements that apply.

CONNECTING TO TANK/WATER SYSTEM

Hazardous pressure. Submersible pumps can develop very high pressure in some situations. To prevent tank blowup, install a pressure relief valve able to pass full pump flow at 75 PSI (517kPa) when using an air over water pressure tank. Install a pressure relief valve capable of passing entire pump flow at 100 PSI (690 kPa) when using a pre-charged pressure tank. Install this relief valve between pump and tank.
Pipe joint compound can cause cracking in plastics. Use only teflon tape on joints in plastic pipe.
NOTICE: Allowing pump or piping system to freeze may severely damage pump and will void warranty. Protect pump and entire piping system (including pressure tank) from freezing.
Pre-charged Pressure Tank Hookup:
See Figure 12, Page 8 for piping connections to pre-charged pressure tank.
NOTICE: Check air pre-charge in tank before starting pump. Adjust pre- charge to 2 PSI below pump cut-in setting. (For example, a pre-charge tank used with a 30-50 switch should be precharged with air to 28 PSI. Adjust pre- charge by either adding or bleeding air through tire valve located on top of tank. Check pre-charge annually and adjust as needed.
Standard Tank Hookup:
See Figure 13, Page 9 for piping connections to standard pressure tank and for correct distance of bleeder orifices from pressure tank.
Important Electrical Grounding Information
Hazardous voltage. Can shock,
burn, or kill. To reduce the risk of electrical shock during pump operation, ground and bond the pump and motor as follows:
A. To reduce risk of electrical shock from metal parts of the assembly other than the pump, bond together all metal parts accessible at the well head (including metal discharge pipe, metal well casing, and the like). Use a metal bonding conductor at least as large as the power cable conductors running down the well to the pump’s motor.
B. Clamp or weld (or both if necessary) this bonding conductor to the grounding means provided with the pump, which will be the equipment-grounding terminal, the grounding conductor on the pump housing, or an equipment- grounding lead.
The equipment-grounding lead, when provided, will be the conductor having green insulation; it may also have one or more yellow stripes.
C. Ground the pump, motor, and any metallic conduit that carries power cable conductors.
Ground these back to the service by connecting a copper conductor from the pump, motor, and conduit to the grounding screw provided within the supply- connection box wiring compartment.
This conductor must be at least as large as the circuit conductors supplying the pump. Save these instructions.

CHECK VALVE DISTANCE TO TOP BLEEDER ORIFICE

TANK SIZE| DISTANCE
42 Gallon (159L)| 2′ (.6M)
82 Gallon (310L)| 3′ (.9M)
120 Gallon (454L)| 5′ (1.4M)
220 Gallon (833L)| 5′ (1.4M)
315 Gallon (1192L)| 10′ (3.0M)
525 Gallon (1987L)| 15′ (4.6M)

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

box.
No voltage at pressure switch. No voltage at control box. Cable or splices bad.
Control box incorrectly wired.| Replace blown fuses.
Replace faulty pressure switch.
Rewire supply to control box.
Consult licensed electrician or serviceman. Reconnect control box correctly (see wiring diagrams, Pages 6 through 8).
Fuses blow or overload protector trips when motor starts Wrong size fuse or wrong size time delay fuse.
Wire size too small. Starting apacitor defective or blown. Low or high voltage. Cable leads not correctly connected to control box.
Broken wire in control box.
Pump or motor stuck or binding.| Check fuse size against Tables II and III, Pages 3 and 4.Check wire size against Table III, Page 4. Check control box to see if starting capacitor has blown out. Check that line voltage is within :10% of nameplate rated voltage while motor is running.
Check control box wiring diagram against incoming power hookup. Check drop cable color coding.
Examine all connections and wiring in control box.
Check for locked rotor in pump.| Install correct fuse or time delay fuse.
Install correct size wire. Replace starting capacitor.
If voltage variation is greater than :10%, call power company to adjust voltage. Reconnect leads to match wiring diagram in control box cover.Reconnect drop cable so cable color code matches motor lead color code. Disconnect power and repair or replace faulty wire.If necessary, pull pump (make all possible above ground checks first). If pump is locked, replace it. Clean well of all sand or lime before reinstalling pump.
Fuses blow or overload protector trips when motor Is running Low or high voltage. High ambient
(atmospheric temperature). Control box with wrong voltage or horsepower rating. Wire size too small. Cable splices or motor leads grounded, shorted, or open.| Check that line voltage is within :10% of rated nameplate voltage while motor is running. Check temperature of control box. Compare voltage and horsepower on motor nameplate with those given on control box nameplate or on circuit diagram inside control box cover. Check wire size against Table III, Page 4. Consult licensed electrician or qualified serviceman.| If voltage variation is more than :10%, call power company to adjust voltage. Do not mount control box in direct sunlight. Replace control box if numbers do not match. Install correct wire size. Do not attempt to disassemble pump or motor.
Pump starts too frequently Leaks in system. Pressure switch. Tank waterlogged. Leak in drop pipe.
Pressure switch too far from tank| Check all tank connections with soapsuds for air leaks. Check plumbing for leaks. Check for defective switch or switch out of adjustment. Pre-charged tanks; check tank pre- charge air pressure, check for leak in bladder.
Air over water tanks: check for air leaks. Check Air Volume Control (AVC). Check snifter valve operation.
Raise drop pipe one length at a time until water stands in pipe. Measure distance from pressure switch to tank| System must be air and water tight Re- adjust or replace pressure switch. Pre-charge tanks: adjust air pressure to 2 PSI (13.8 kPa) less than pump cut-in pressure (when there is no water pressure on system). Replace bladder if necessary.
Air over water tanks: repair or replace tanks; replace snifter valves if necessary. Replace pipe above that point. Move switch to within one foot of tank.
Little or no water delivered
Bleeder orifice check valve stuck or installed back- wards (standard tank only). Low water level. Low voltage.
Plugged intake screen. Check valve at pump discharge stuck. Worn impellers and diffusers.| Examine valve. Determine lowest water level in well
while pump is running and compare to pump depth setting. Check voltage at control box with pump
running. Check incoming wire size and power supply wire size against Table III, Page 4.
Pull pump and check condition of screen.
Pull pump and examine check valve.
Make sure system is clear of obstructions and pump is in solid water and operation normally.| If stuck, free valve; if installed backwards, reverse it.
Lower pump further into well (but at least 5′ (1.6M) above bottom of well). Throttle pump discharge until discharge equals recovery rate of well. NOTICE: Running pump while airlocked can cause loss of prime and seriously damage pump. Install larger wire from meter to control box. Install larger wire from control box to pump. If necessary, have power company raise supply voltage. Clean or replace as necessary. Free check valve.
Replace pump.
Air or milky water discharge from faucets Gas in well water.
Air volume control not working (standard tanks only).| Check for presence of gas in well water.
Make sure ports and ball check valves are clear.| Remove bleeder orifices; plug tees. Be sure plugged tees do not leak. If necessary, separate gas from air before it enters pressure tank. Replace control if necessary.

ATTACH ORIGINAL RECEIPT HERE FOR WARRANTY CONSIDERATION.

SIMER warrants to the original consumer purchaser (“Purchaser”) of its products that they are free from defects in material or workmanship.
If within twelve (12) months from the date of the original consumer purchase any such product shall prove to be defective, it shall be repaired or replaced at SIMER’s option, subject to the terms and conditions set forth below. Your original receipt of purchase is required to determine warranty eligibility.
Exceptions to the Twelve (12) Month Warranty

General Terms and Conditions
Purchaser must pay all labor and shipping charges necessary to replace product covered by this warranty. This warranty shall not apply to acts of God, nor shall it apply to products which, in the sole judgement of SIMER, have been subject to negligence, abuse, accident, misapplication, tampering, alteration; nor due to improper installation, operation, maintenance or storage; nor to other than normal application, use or service, including but not limited to, operational failures caused by corrosion, rust or other foreign materials in the system, or operation at pressures in excess of recommended maximums.
Requests for service under this warranty shall be made by returning the defective product to the Retail outlet or to SIMER as soon as possible after the discovery of any alleged defect.
CHIMER will subsequently take corrective action as promptly as reasonably possible. No requests for service under this warranty will be accepted if received more than 30 days after the term of the warranty.
This warranty sets forth SIMER’s sole obligation and purchaser’s exclusive remedy for defective products.
CHIMER SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONTINGENT DAMAGES WHATSOEVER. THE FOREGOING WARRANTIES ARE EXCLUSIVE AND IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTIES. IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, SHALL NOT EXTEND BEYOND THE  CURATION OF THE APPLICABLE EXPRESS WARRANTIES PROVIDED HEREIN. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages or limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may  lso have other rights which vary from state to state.

SIMER  293 Wright Street  Delaney, WI U.S.A. 53115
Phone: 1-800-468-7867/1-800-546-7867
Fax: 1-800-390-5351
E-Mail: info@simerpumps.com
Web Site: http://www.simerpumps.com

References

• Simer | Brands | Pentair

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