Hallberg Rassy Yachts 26 Boat Owner’s Manual

Yachts 26 Boat
Owner’s Manual

44080 Ell~s, Sverige. Telefon 0304/50290
Telex 2445 Rassy S

INFORMATION SHEET

Type of boat: HALLBERG RASS¥ 26
Construction no;%.·····················
Year of Manufacture:,«····.···.··.····.
Colour of the Hull: Gelcoat No: Jotun 200
Superstructure Gelcoat No: Norpol 332
Motor No t%«···············+··«····»
Starting Key NO:······»·»…..
Acc, Hatch Key No:..,

HALLBERG RASSY BOAT YARD
INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOAT OWNERS
This booklet is intended to give some hints and information regarding the best handling and maintenance of your boat. It does not, however, in any way claim to be complete,   ut deals with some of the questions, which have been previously answered upon delivery.
This Instruction is not intended as an “Operation Manual”, but deals primarily with details, which are specifically related to our boats.
As a rule, the new owner always has to dedicate sufficient time in order to get himself acquainted with his new boat and its construction.
The responsibility for the proper maintenance is up to the buyer.
We wish you GOOD LUCK and many HAPPY NAUTICAL MILES’
Maintenance of the Gelcaat – Repair of Dama9s
The outer, colored coating of a fiberglass boat is called the Gelcoet. This is a plain coating, which protects the fiberglashull and at the same tine gives the boat an elegant and asy­ to-care exterior. The thickness of the Gelcoat is approximatel1/32 – 1/6 of an inch and thus considerably thicker than a  normal color coat. It is completely homogenous  nd has the  same hardness right through. This is why it is often possible to remove bad scatches through grinding or polishing without having to apply any new plastic. It is  ot difficult either to repair deeper scratches or damages, Any air bubbles, scratches  or ruptures that may occur in this outer coating does-not mean that water can penetrate the laminate:

1. Maintenance pf plastic surfaces in good condition
   The plastic surfaces of the boat should be kept clean and spot­ less for a nice appearance. Use regular detergents and water  but avoid detergents which may cause  cratches, Do not use de­ tergents containing ammonia as they may damage fittings, plexi­  glass, etc. Detergents and solutions should be thoroughly rinsed off. Should the  hiny surfaces get dull they can be po­ lished either by hand, using a polishing agent, or by using a low  revolution machine. There are several special polishing agents for  iberglass boats on the market. Waxing is nor normally required, but can do no harm. When waxing notice that the wax has to be worked well. Do not wax any_sur­  faces  ith pattern, which will make them slippery.

2. pair of superficiclscratches,etc.
   Scratches in the gelcoating may often look deeper than they really are and as the scratched surface is different in color than the shiny one, you may think that the colored   oating hasbeen penetrated. For reasonably deep scratches use water sanding. Start with a coarse paper and little by little change down to a  fine paper (No BOO). Rub ho   urface after sanding, i.e, use polish and an abrasive on the surface as well as on the surround­ ing undamaged surfaces,

3. Repair of deep scratches and scarfings
   If the golcoating has been damaged and completely removed, the repair is done as follows. Get Gelcoat in the proper color (See Information Sheet) and a hardener from   fiberglass manufacturer  or the yard. The damage is then cleaned with the edge of a knife and covered with masking tape very closely on both sides of the hole. Mix the  elcoat and the hardener (approximately 2% of the  hardener). The temperature in the working area should be be­ tween 60-80 F.
   Use a generous amount of the Gelcoat to fill in the damaged spot and immediately place a piece of tape over the same to avoid  Gelcoat from running. After the plastic  as hardened, grind off the surplus and polish the surface.
   Scaffings under the waterline are filled with putty epoxy (Inter­ pad) and then painted with a 2-component primer, e.g. Internation­ al Poly Ground. arger scaffings, in case  he boat hits bottom hard, have to be  cleaned from crushed fiberglass through grinding and are then re­ paired with fiberglass mat and plastic before final putting (repair sets are available on the market).

Maintenance of Wood – Interior
The interior surfaces of mahogany are thoroughly treated with a synthetic laquer and even after many years of use do not nor­ mally need any other maintenance than a cleaning. Should a sur­ face, however, be damaged to the extent that it would be necess­ ary to revarnish same, the whole damaged surface has to be sand­ ed and then varnished with a mat laquer (International Lagolac or similar). Most of the minor damages are taken care of with a little bit of oil. Interior teak, mouldings, etc. can be oiled once in a while with teak oil.
Exterior Wood
The exterior wood is made of genuine teak and is not dependent of either laquer or oil for its protection. Natural teak is scrubbed thoroughly at the same time as the cleaning of the fiberglass surfaces and will after some time take on a silvergrey shade. In our experience, the use of teak oil on the exterior may ceuse bad looking surfaces, which are difficult to maintain. Therefore we do not advise any oiling.

**Mast and Rigging

**

If the boat is not commissioned at delivery and therefore the owner has to take care of the stepping of the mast and the rigging9, the following procedure should be follwed: The halyards are checked and the shrouds and stays are attached to the mast. If the top navigation light is not yet mounted, it should be done before stepping the mast. The spreaders are mounted and locked on to the mast and top shrouds. In order to make it simple to obtain the correct angle of the spreaders, stretch the top shrouds along the mast and make a mark at the position of the spreader bracket on the mast. This marking in­ dicates the correct position for the outer end of the spreader. Any covers for the turnbuckles should be attached at this stage. When the mast has been stepped and the shrouds and stays have been fastened to their respective chain plates, the rigging is tightened by hand and the mast adjusted into a vertical.\
The rinci al ad ustment of the ri is made so that the ore stay and tops rous are tight ut still not completely rigid
(abt 650 lbs tension). The lower shrouds are set up so the mast will maintain a slight bend. After the upper and lower shrouds and the forestay have been adjusted but with the aft stay loose, the mast should be straight sideways and the bend measured at half height should be abt 2″. By putting tension on the aft stay the mast bend can be increased in order to reduce the fullness of the main sail. The 7/8 rigg gives the boat owner possibility to adjust his mast to the main sail and for different wind conditions.
At first opportunity the shape of the mast should be checked when sailing in hard wind with double reefed main sail. Under this conditions the mast is not allowed to bend aft at spreader height.
If the mast shows such tendency, the top shrouds should be tightened and/or the lower shrouds slacked. Inspect the rigging when the mast is taken down, either for winter storage or for other reasons. Special care should be given to halyards. Grease the top and bottom shives. Wash the mast and afterwards hose it thoroughly. Before stepping, also control all wire connections for running lights and antennas. The anodized surface can be protected by using a silicone-free wax. The luff of the sail would move easier if the slot is treated with paraffine.

Vibrations in mast and rigging
The wind can cause vibrations in the mast and rigging. This happens most often when the boat is moored at the dock and  is quite normal and natural. Put sometimes you  ay  ind it somewhat disturbing. Vibrations seldom occur during sailing.
The most common cause it that th topping lift is too tight. Specially if the boat is moored and the wind is coning in from the side, the mast itself may vibrate alongship. This  an be remedied by stretching the spinnaker topping lift to some suitable place aft.
A small change in the tension of the rigging often eliminates the vibrations.

General hints about sailing. etc.
The HALLBERG RASSY 26 assures complete safety and has been designed for sailing on unprotected waters. The engine is powerful enough to take the boat against a 35  nots headwipd. The angel of heel should not be allowed to exceed about 25 when motorsailing. The light wind genus jib (20,8 m, 230 safe)_iscarried on the win up to about   knots and off wind slightly more.
The working jib(15,5 m, 170 sqft) is used in combination with fuIT mainsail up to about 20 knots on the wind and with a reefed mainsail  o about 25 knots.The_stormjib (7 m, 77 sgft) is carried in cbmbination with a double reefed nain sail up to about 35 knots wind and can . also be used alone as a steading sail when motoring. Special jib(0,8 m, 120 safe) is aself tacking sail and requires that the special X-track and traveller has been fitted on the foundation in the deck forward of the mast. In the kit for the selftacking jib is included 3 blocks, schackles and a sheet.
One of the blocks is provided with a becket to take the end of the sheet. This block is schackled to the roller track car. One block is fitted to the clew and the third block is schackled to the tack pennant enclosing the headstay.
The sheet is rove as shown on figure l and is led to one of the sheet winches. The vertical position of the sail can be adjusted by fitting additional schackles between the tack of the sail and the pennant. This adjustment has the same effect on the trim of the sail as the moving forward or aft of the sheet lead on a normal genua track. a1n sail (16,4 m, 180 sft) is fitted with two slab reefs of jiffy reef type, internal boomouthaul and Cunningham hole.
When setting the sail, the boom 1s lifted and the sail is hoisted fully. The tension is adjusted with the downhaul. Higher tension on the luff flattens the sail and moves the fullness forward in the sail. With the boomouthaul tightened, the sail becomes flatter in the lower parts.
A rough rule is that small wrinkles in the sailcloth from the bolt ropes in­ dicate low tension and folds along the mast or boom indicate overtenion, The mainsail 1s prepared for reefing by pulling 1n the reef­ lines, The shorter line is intended for the first reef and is attached to the outer fixed loop in the boom.
The line is the:» taken through the reefing eye in the leach for the lower reef down to the fixed sheeve on the opposit side of the boom and forward to a cleat on the boom. The longer line is arranged in the same way for the second reef.

Reefing

Reefing is made by lowering the mainsail enough to enable the eye of the first reef in the sail to be hooked at the tack, the halyard is retightened and the reef line for the first reef is tightened until the sail is well stretched out on the boom. The reefing is best made with the topping lift slightly tightened during the operation. There is no need to  ecure the lose part of the sail. The second reef is taken in the same way.
To let out a reef, the same operations are ade in reverse.
The sails are made in Dacron, Terylene or equivalent cloth ad do not need any special care during the first hours of sailing to obtain optimum shape. They are pretty well water resistant and in an emergency you may stow away them even when moist. They should however be aired at first opportunity as a small rist of discolouring by mildew exists.
The_shape of the mainsail is depending not only on the tens±on along the spars but also on the bending of the mast and ten­ sion on the kicking strap. Change one component at a time and watch the influence on the shape of the sail. Mainsails as well as foresails are usually provided with an adjustable leach line. This should only be tightened enough to prevent flutter.
The shape of foresails is largely depending on the tension in he halyard. Tfs has to be adjusted to the strength of the wind. A tight halyard will prevent the fullness of the sail from moving aft as the wind increases.
The fore and aft posi­ tion of the sheet lead suld generally be such that the sail starts to luff uniformly in the higher or lower part.
You will always find some creases in the sails extending from the corners. These are unavoidable in a modern full sail and make no harm.
The sails must be inspected periodically for worn seams and other small defects that can start a rip in heavy. weather.
Tnstrugtions regarding the engine, engine installation; through hull fittings, head and electric system, etc.

Regarding the engine itself and the drive unit, we recommend you to refer to Volvo”s ‘Instruction Book”, which should he thoroughly studied before using the boat, Engine   ut out. The engine is a diesel and cannot be stopped turn~n@ RF the key. The engine cut out is a pull out handle on the engine panel in the stb cockpit locker. Extra fuel   ilter. A water separation filter is fitted in the Ruef Tine, accessable in the engine compartment. Periodically and particularly after refuelling, the glass bowl should be checked  or water collecting. The water cannot be drained without stopping the engine. After refitting, the fvel line has to be vented as described in the engine manual.

The fuel oil tank’ is fitted under the cockpit floor. The vo­I~me ds Z i~res (8,8 imp. gall.). The tank is made in stain­less steel and has all connections concentrated in a speciallid, which is also serving as a man hole cover.Cabin heater. As optional extra equipment a cabin heater isavailable. Tor the maintenance and running of this, vwe referto  he makers manual. It is important that the current is notdisconnected with the main switch before the heater has burned out and stopped.
Thg E tank has 65 litres (14,3 imp.gall) capacity and is built in under the forward end of the v. berth in the fore cabin. It is made in polyethylene and is translucent. It can be  baned through a man hole.

The Fl pumps need no upkeep. They should be drained if the oat Zs winierstored in cold climates.
he bilge pump is fitted in the port side cockpit locker with a suction from the bilge well in thc aft part of the main cabin. The pump can be ismantled to clear the valves if clogged.
The paraffin stove is an Optimus type 155 with direct pre­ heating. Do noj pperatg without readingthe makers instructions. Gas stove is available as an alternative to the  araffin stove. A copper pipe is laid forward to the stowage in the forepeak.
The head. The boat is equipped with a reliable marine–head of over board discharge type. The bowl is flushed by pumping seawater and pressing out the waste directly into  the sea. The discharge is connected with a special bottom valve, which normally should be kept closed and in any case always while sailing.
In an OPEN position the handle points away from the incoming pipe and €he valve isclosed when the handle points along the pipe on either side. Normally the valve for incoming seawater has to be closed only when the boat is not in use for a long time. The valve is placed under the berth in the forepeak. It is important that the flushing valve if the toilet is set completely in the position CLOSED. When in use, the bottom valve shall first be opened. Th~ bowl is then flushed a couple of tines. After use, the bowl is emptied through forceful pumping, at the same time as the small valve at the side of the bowl is cpen = FLUSH. When the water level has risen some­ what in the bowl, the small valve at the side shall be closed and the pumping is continued until the bowl is emptied. Put flush valve back to OPEN position. ever put any foreign matter in in the toilet, a match c an easily clog the To1IeE. Cose the bottom valve after use. As regards the winter maintenance, flush the toilet with detergent and water and drain through the bottom plug.
Note; In some areas the boats are fitted with optional sewage treatment devices or holding tanks to meet the anti pollution laws. For maintenance of optional equipment see  anufacturers hand book.

lolding Tank for the toilet (European type)
A holding tank can be obtained as an accessory to the standard marine toilet. This tank is installed in the locker space, behind the toilet. This tank makes it possible to use the toilet while in port without pumping out the waste, which later can be emptied into the sea. It is used in about the same manner as without the tank, but instead of opening the bottom valve for drainage, the valve of the holding tank is opened. After use, the tank valve is closed. With careful use of the flushing water, the tank should normally be cnough for one family during a weekend. The tank is emptied in open sea by first opening the bottom valve and then the tank valve; the tank is then drained through gravity. The tank is flushed with the toilet pump and emptied and is then ready for use again. The tank is equipped with ventilation opening outside and above waterline. If the tank is full, the flushing water will come through the hose to the ventilation and the pumping must be stopped immediately. It is advisable to flush the tank with some chemical disinfectant and detergent before the winter season,

Seacocks
The water intake for the toilet is situated under the forward berth and can normally be IefE open.
The overboard valve from the toilet should be dismantled once every season an Ehe surfaces greased by a thick water resistant grease,
The discharge from the selfbailing cockpit is arranged with two l l/4″ outlets, port stbd in the engine compartment. The discharge from the sink is also situated in the engine compartment.
The discharge from the wash basin is found in the locker below the basin.
NOTE! IMPORTANT:

Checking up on hose clamps.

Hose clamps, specially those positioned below waterline, where a leak means water entering the boat, must be checked up some time after delivery and then annually. The   lamps’are where possible of stainless steel and will not corrode. The hose must be so firmly attached to the fitting that it cannot be turned by hand and it must not leak.  xtreme tighting should  elsway be avoided as it may make the treds of the screws to override and the clamp to lose its grip.
he cooling_water intake is on the sailboat drives lower gear housing. Ii can e closed by a cock on the port side of the upper gear housing.
The electrical syste is 12 V and wired with two separate circuits, one for engine start and one for light and general purpose. This means that the’starting of the engine is not affected by the running down of the general purpose battery.   Each circuit has as standard one G0 AH lead battery. The bat­ teries may be cut out by the two main switches  ocated below the accomodation ladder. The alternator has z permanent conn­ ection to the ligting battery to protect it against damage, if the switches are turned off by  istake,  hen the engine is running.
T’he fuse box is situated on the stbd side over the navigator desk, whore there are also switches for the running lights etc. A l2 V outlet and a fuel tank gauge is also located here. Before plugging in electronic equipment, sensitive to polarity (TV-sets), check the plugg and outlets.

The fuses are all 8 arp.
The interior light bulbs are in the buckhead lights two 5W ccII type HelIa I2&Id or equal. Ceiling lights i0 W coil type Hella 12866 and in the spotlights 5 t bayonet base BA  5 S,  Hella 1282l or equal.
The lightbulbs for the_navigation lights are speclal for the purpose type BY I5 d, 25 w, except the stern light, which is 10 W Hella type 8 GA 002600-12 respectively $99-12  r equal. A_wiring diagram and fuse plan is found in the back of this manual.

Lifting, slipp ing and winter storage

If any uncertainty exists as regards the shape of the keel, the profile is found in the specification sheet on page 3 in this booklet.
The centre of gravity for unm asted boat is as follows, measured forward of the bulkhead between the cockpit and accommodation.

The ahove particulars are approximate and depending on tho condition of the tanks and the distribution of eventual stores, etc.
When lifted on a slipway or placed in winterstore, the weight of the boat should be supported by woodfaced blocks, one of which should be as far forward as possible under  he flat keel.  One or two further supports are needed. For lifting by crane, the slings must be very long or provided with spreaders. Wood blocks may be used to prevent  rushing the rail.
Generally speaking, when the boat is stored out of the water it should be blocked up level on fir ground. The bilge and the watertanks should be drained. Cushions are best removed and stowed dry or turned up to improve air circulation and left in the boat.
The fuel tank is if permitted, best left full or nearly filled, to avoid condensation. The boat should be covered by a self supported roof or by a tarpaulin over a rigid frame, arranged to keep the cover as far as possible free from deck and superstructure. Engine and toilet should be serviced according to manufacturers re­ commendations. All stainless steel, cromed bronze or anodized light metal fittings should be waxed.
If transporting by road, all tanks are best left empty.

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