TRINSEO INDURO Acrylic Capped Sheet User Guide
- September 24, 2024
- TRINSEO
Table of Contents
INDURO Acrylic Capped Sheet
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Specifications
- Brand: INDUROTM
- Usage: Forming and Fabrication
- Language: English
Product Usage Instructions
1. Fabrication and Finishing
1.1 Routing and Shaping
Woodworking shapers and overhead, or portable routers are
recommended for edge finishing operations and cutting flat
thermoformed parts. Table routers are convenient for edging small
parts, while portable routers are useful for larger or awkwardly
shaped parts.
1.2 Drilling
When drilling INDUROTM Sheet, use standard twist drills with
slow spirals and wide polished flutes. Modify the drill bits by
dubbing-off the cutting edge to zero rake angle. For best results,
drills should rotate at high speed with a slow but steady feed.
Ensure the drill runs true to avoid affecting the finish of the
hole.
1.3 Cutting
Power saws are recommended for cutting INDUROTM Sheet. Circular
saws are preferred for straight cuts, while jig saws and saber saws
are suitable for small radii curves and thin materials. Band saws
are ideal for large radii curves and thick acrylic cuts.
2. Thermoforming
2.1 Thermoforming Temperatures and Cycles
Refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines for recommended
thermoforming temperatures and cycles.
2.2 Heating Equipment
Use appropriate heating equipment for thermoforming
operations.
2.3 Bending
Follow bending techniques as per the forming guide.
2.4 Three-Dimensional Forming
Utilize molds and techniques for three-dimensional forming of
INDUROTM parts.
FAQ
Q: What tools can be used to drill INDUROTM Sheet?
A: Conventional tools such as portable electric drills, flexible
shafts, drill presses, or lathes can be used to drill INDUROTM
Sheet.
Q: What is the recommended speed for drilling INDUROTM
Sheet?
A: Drills should rotate at high speed with a slow but steady
feed. The highest available speed with a drill press is usually
5,000 rpm, but exceptions should be made when drilling large
holes.
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INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 1
INDUROTM
Forming and Fabrication Guide
2024 Global | English Connecting ideas with solutions
aristechsurfaces.com trinseo.com
2 | INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE
Contents
Fabrication and Finishing 1.1 Routing and Shaping 1.2 Drilling
3 3 3
1.3 Cutting
4
1.4 Finishing
5
1.5 Sanding
5
1.6 Buffing and Polishing
6
1.7 Installation of INDUROTM Parts
6
2. Thermoforming 2.1 Thermoforming Temperatures and Cycles
8 8
2.2 Heating Equipment
9
2.3 Bending
11
2.4 Three-Dimensional Forming
11
2.5 Molds
13
2.6 Thermoforming
with Polyethylene Film
14
INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 3
1. Fabrication and Finishing
1.1 Routing and Shaping
1.2 Drilling
Woodworking shapers and overhead, or portable routers are used in edge
finishing operations and for cutting flat thermoformed parts. For edging small
parts, the table router is convenient. (see Figure 1.)
A portable router is useful when the part is too large or awkward to bring to
the machine. (See Figure 2.)
These machines should have a minimum no-load spindle speed of 10,000 rpm.
Higher speeds are desirable and should be used if they are available. Two or
three flute cutters, smaller than 1.5″ (38 mm) in diameter, running at high
speeds, produce the smoothest cuts. At slower spindle speeds, the cutter
should have more flutes, or may be larger in diameter to produce the necessary
surface speeds. The cutter should be kept sharp and should have a back
clearance of 10° and a positive rake angle up to 15°.
When drilling INDUROTM Sheet, best results are obtained when using standard
twist drills which have been modified as follows:
1. High speed steel drills should be selected, having slow spirals and wide
polished flutes.
2. Drills should first be ground to a tip angle of 60° to 90°.
3. Modify the standard twist drill by dubbing-off the cutting edge to zero
rake angle.
4. Grind the back lip clearance angles to 12° – 15°.
Figure 1 – Trimming formed part with table mounted router
Figure 3 – Alterations to drill bits for drilling INDUROTM Sheet
INDUROTM sheet may be drilled using any of the conventional tools: portable
electric drills, flexible shafts, drill presses or lathes. In general, drills
should rotate at high speed and feed should be slow but steady. Use the
highest available speed with a drill press, usually 5,000 rpm. An exception to
this rule should be made when drilling large holes where the drill speed
should be reduced to 1,000 rpm. The drill should always run true since wobble
will affect the finish of the hole.
Figure 2 – Edging with a portable router
When drilling holes which penetrate a second surface, it is desirable to back up the surface with wood and slow the feed as the drill point breaks through. For accuracy and safety, the acrylic should be clamped during drilling.
4 | INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE
1.3 Cutting
As a general rule, a power saw is the best method of cutting INDUROTM Sheet.
It is sometimes advantageous to cut thin material at an elevated temperature
with rule and blanking dies. Cold punching and/or shearing should not be used
since these methods will fracture the material.
The type of equipment selected should be based on the work to be done.
Circular saws are preferred for straight cutting. Jig saws and saber saws are
suggested for cutting small radii curves and thin materials.
Band saws are suggested for large radii curves and for straight cuts in thick
acrylic. Routers and wood working shapers can be used for trimming the edges
of formed parts.
Tempered alloy steel saw blades are the least expensive to buy, give
reasonable service, and are discarded when worn out. Carbide tipped blades are
more expensive, give longer service, and can be resharpened. The following
table can be used as a guide in selecting the proper circular saw blade:
Circular saws should: 1. Be run at 8,000-12,000 RPM. 2. Be hollow ground to
aid cooling. 3. Be slotted to prevent heat warping the blade. 4. Have teeth
with a uniform rake angle of 0° – 10°. 5. Have a slight set to give clearance
of .010″ to .015″
(.254 mm to .381 mm) and 6. Have teeth of uniform height.
An 8″ (20.3 cm) diameter blade is used for light work and a 12″ (30.5 cm)
blade for heavy work. A two-horsepower motor is suggested for driving these
blades.
Masking tape applied over the area to be cut will reduce the tendency to chip
during cutting. Acetone, toluene, or methylene chloride can be used to clean
blades. Tallow or bar soap applied to the blade, helps to prevent gum build-
up on the blade when cutting sheet masked with adhesive backed paper.
Traveling saws cutting at 10 to 25 feet (3 to 7.6 meters) per minute are
recommended for making straight cuts longer than 3 feet (91 cm) and for
cutting sheets when it would be undesirable to slide them across the saw
table.
Thickness of Acrylic Sheet Inches (mm)
.080 – .100 (2.0 – 2.5)
.100 – .187 (2.5 4.7)
.187 – .472 (4.7 12.0)
Blade thickness Inches (mm)
1/16 3/32 (1.6 2.4)
3/32 1/8 (2.4 3.2)
3/32 1/8 (2.4 3.2)
Teeth per Inch (cm)
8 14 (3 8)
6 8 (2 3)
5 6 (2 3)
Figure 4 – TypicaL saw blade for cutting INDUROTM Sheet
INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 5
Variable speed band saws, which can run at 5,000 feet (1524 m) per minute and have a 28″ to 36″ (71 to 91 cm) throat, are best suited for production work. Metal cutting blades are the best type for cutting INDUROTM Sheet. The following table can serve as a guide for selection of a blade:
Min. radius to be cut Inches (mm) 1/2 (12.7) 3/4 (19) 1-1/2 (38) 2-1/4 (57) 3 (76) 4-1/2 (114) 8 (203) 12 (305) 20 (508)
Blade width Inches (mm) 3/16 (4.7) 1/4 (6.3) 3/8 (9.5) 1/2 (12.7) 5/8 (15.9) 3/4 (19) 1 (25.4) 1-1/4 (31.7) 1-1/2 (38.1)
Blade thickness Inches (mm) 0.028 (.71) 0.028 (.71) 0.028 (.71) 0.032 (.81) 0.032 (.81) 0.032 (.81) 0.035 (.89) 0.035 (.89) 0.035 (.89)
Teeth per Inch (cm) 7 (3) 7 (3) 6 (3) 5 (2) 5 (2) 4 (1.5) 4 (1.5) 3 (1.5) 3 (1.5)
The blade speed should be approximately 4,500 RPM for INDUROTM Sheet thicknesses from .125″ to .375″ (3.2 to 9.5 mm) thick. Fine teeth with no set will produce a smooth cut if fed slowly. Sheets should be fed continuously and with even pressure to prevent the blade from binding and breaking. The blade should enter and leave the work slowly to prevent chipping. Should a burr form on the cut edge due to overheating, it can be removed with a scraper or other straight edged tool. This is particularly important if the sheet is to be silk screened.
1.5 Sanding
Minor and shallow scratches on a clean INDUROTM Sheet surface can be filled
with a paste wax to improve the appearance. Hard automobile paste wax should
be used, applied in a light even film with a soft cloth. The surface should
then be polished to a high gloss with a clean, dry, cotton flannel cloth. Hard
or rough textured cloth such as cheesecloth and muslin should not be used.
Deeper, yet light, scratches may be removed or reduced by hand polishing,
using a soft cloth and a rubbing compound (see source list). Do not “sand”
acrylic unless surface blemishes are too deep to remove by light buffing. When
it is necessary, usually 320-A wet-or-dry paper is as coarse as will be
required and may be followed by a 400-A or finer paper. Soak the sandpaper in
water for a few minutes before using and use plenty of water while sanding.
Sanding of large areas should not be attempted unless power buffing equipment
is available. Final sanding should be in one direction only to prevent
distortions and/or “bullseyes.”
Machine sanding can be done with belt, disc, vibratory or drum sanders. Large
optical grade jobs require expensive, precision grinding equipment. In all
cases, when sanding acrylics, keep the tool, or the work, moving and use water
freely.
1.4 Finishing
The original high-gloss surface of INDUROTM sheet can usually be restored by a series of finishing operations. Finishing often involves an initial sanding operation, followed by buffing, then finally a polishing operation. During all these operations, heat should be avoided. The power tool should be kept in constant motion, with a minimum of pressure against the finishing wheels. Air cooling devices can be used to reduce frictional heat.
Figure 5 – Final sanding (use back and forth motion and liberal amounts of water)
6 | INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE
1.6 Buffing and Polishing
1.7 Installation of INDUROTM Parts
An abrasive wheel may be used first, which consists of wheel buffs made of
stitched cotton or flannel, and an abrasive compound of very fine alumina or
similar abrasive combined with tallow wax binders. The abrasive wheel should
run at about 1,800 surface feet (548 m) per minute.
After reducing most of the scratches on the abrasive wheel, a wheel buff to
which only tallow has been applied may be used to remove any remaining
imperfections. Speed of the buff should be between 1,800 and 2,200 surface
feet (548 and 671 m) per minute.
Next, the acrylic part is given a high polish on a finish wheel on which no
abrasive or tallow is used. As an alternate method, a coat of wax can be
applied by hand.
Once a part is formed or fabricated, it needs to be installed. That is
commonly done with adhesive systems, fasteners, or a combination of both.
Thermoformed INDUROTM parts are typically fastened a frame or other substrate.
These substrates such as an aluminium frame, do not generally have the same
coefficient of expansion and contraction as INDUROTM. Caution must be taken to
allow independent movement to prevent any cracking, deformation, and substrate
separation.
The Coefficient of Thermal Expansion of INDUROTM Composite sheets is 4.4 x
10-5 in/in/°F or 7.9 x 10-5 cm/cm/°C.
During internal thermal cycle testing on large thermoformed InDURO parts we
found that predrilling a 13/32″ hole (along with rubber grommets) was required
to compensate for thermal movement.
Figure 6 – Buffing INDUROTM Sheet on power driven buffer
The finish wheel should be very loose and made of imitation chamois or flannel
10″ to 12″ (25.4 to 30.5 cm) in diameter, running at a speed of 2,000 to 2,400
surface feet (610 to 732 m) per minute. This is the recommended procedure for
finishing edges.
While each individual application should be evaluated and approved by the OEM, we have found that the below specifications resulted in no expansion and contraction issues during thermal cycle testing. · 13/32″ Predrilled hole using counter sink bit · 3/16″ x 3/8″ x 3/16″ x 1/4″ rubber Grommet · Silicone can be used to seal holes · 1 1/8″ self-tapping flat head screw
INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 7
A rubber grommet is not always needed if the installer is careful to exactly
center the screw in the hole. The grommet takes some of the uncertainty out of
the installation and ensures that the screw does not over time shift to
contact the sides of the hole, thus constricting expansion. The screws could
be centered initially but vibration in use could cause the mounted part to
shift slightly. Accommodation for thermal expansion and contraction is
essential no matter what fastening system is chosen. Whether it is a
mechanical in nature as the above examples or an adhesive system. Our
technical service professionals are available to lend guidance.
8 | INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE
2. Thermoforming
Good formability is one of the most important and useful properties. When
INDUROTM Sheet has been properly heated, it feels like a sheet of soft rubber.
In this state the material can be formed to almost any desired shape. On
cooling, the acrylic becomes rigid and retains the shape to which it has been
formed. Forming thermoplastic sheet is probably the simplest type of plastic
fabrication. The cost of molds and equipment is relatively low. Both two and
three dimensional forming of INDUROTM Sheet can be accomplished by a number of
different methods. The selection will depend on the shape, thickness,
tolerance, and optical quality required for the formed part as well as the
equipment available and number of parts to be made.
It is imperative that all the above Trinseo products be heated properly for
thermoforming. Using temperatures that are too low on these products will
leave stresses in the formed part that could possibly be relieved by solvents
in reinforcing resin, paint and decorating materials causing cracks or
crazing. Too high forming temperatures can cause sheet blistering.
Continuous cast acrylic sheet is used in a wide range of thermoforming
applications.
Following is the narrative of a large scale spa being produced: An acrylic
“shell” is thermoformed. Sheet is expensive so the producer starts with a
sheet that is as thin as possible while insuring good finished parts. The
acrylic only forms the interior and deck “skin” of the vessel. It provides no
structural support. Fittings are installed.
2.1 Thermoforming Temperatures
and Cycles
The following curves (Figures 7 & 8) were derived from tests performed with
the experts by Trinseo. Due to the large variety of heating equipment
available, heating times may vary. The following heating cycles should be used
as a starting point only in obtaining optimum forming temperature times and
cycles. The temperature and cycle times depend upon the thickness of sheet as
well as the type of heating and forming equipment used.
Using equipment with a double-oven (top and bottom heat) allows for the best results regarding heating cycle times. This also provides for a bit more forgiveness in the thermoforming cycles. Target temperatures of 340 to 370 °F (171 to 188 °C) for the top surface are good, with a target of 340 to 360 °F (171 to 182 °C) for the bottom surface. Again, should your equipment require more time you would target the lower range and the higher range if your equipment allows for faster heat up. If the equipment allows for processing at shorter heating cycles, then there is more leeway for higher processing temperatures.
INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 9
Figure 8 outlines the heating cycles when using electric infra-red radiant heaters on one or two sides. Again, heating times can vary depending on the type of heating equipment used, percentage times, distance between sheet and heaters, and heat loss factors.
optimum time to be thermoformed. The best procedure for determining when the sheet is ready for forming is to accurately control the temperature using heat sensors and/or temperature indicating stickers. The actual cycle, temperature settings and techniques most suitable for a particular forming job are best determined on one’s own equipment.
Note: Care must be taken to make sure the operator does not endanger him/herself due to exposure to electricity, hot oven components, or hot sheet.
2.2 Heating Equipment
Figure 7 – Forced air circulating oven at 350°F (177 °C)
1. Forced air circulating ovens
Forced air circulating ovens generally provide uniform heating at a constant temperature with the least danger of overheating the acrylic sheet.
Electric fans should be used to circulate the hot air across the sheeting at velocities of approximately 150 ft./minute (46 m/minute). Suitable baffles should be used to distribute the heat evenly throughout the oven.
Heating may be done with gas or electricity. Gas ovens require heat exchangers to prevent the accumulation of soot from the flue gas. Electric ovens can be heated with a series of 1000-watt strip heating elements. An oven with a capacity of 360 ft3 (10 m3), for example, will require approximately 25,000 watts of input.
Figure 8 – Electric infra-red radiant heating
Several other methods can be used to determine if a sheet has been
sufficiently heated. The most common is the ripple method by which the
operator shakes the heated sheet with a non-combustible object (See note).
When the sheet ripples uniformly across the surface, it is ready for forming.
Another commonly used technique is the “sag method”. By trial and error, the
amount of sag in a hot sheet can be correlated with the
About one-half of this input is required to overcome heating losses through the insulation, leaks and door usage. An oven insulation at least two inches thick is suggested. Oven doors should be narrow to minimize heat loss, but at least one door should be large enough to permit reheating of formed parts which may require reforming. The oven should have automatic controls so that any desired temperature in the range of 250 to 450 °F (121 to 232 °C) can be closely maintained.
10 | INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE
In addition, temperature recording devices are desirable, but not essential.
Uniform heating is best provided when the sheet is hung vertically. This can
be accomplished by hanging the sheets of acrylic on overhead racks designed to
roll along a monorail mounted in the oven roof or in a portable unit.
Precautions should be taken so that the sheet cannot fold or come in contact
with another. A series of spring clips or a spring channel can be used for
securely grasping the sheet along its entire length.
2. Infra-red heating
Infra-red radiation can heat INDUROTM Sheet three to ten times faster than
forced-air heating. This type of heating is often used with automatic forming
machines where a minimum cycle time is important. Temperature control,
however, is much more critical and uniform heating is more difficult to obtain
by this method. Acrylic plastic absorbs most of the infra-red energy on the
exposed surface, which can rapidly attain temperatures of over 360 °F (182
°C). The center of the sheet is heated by a slower conduction of heat from the
hot surface. This usually causes temperature gradients across the thickness.
The gradient is more severe with infra-red heating from one side only. (See
Figure 9). Infra-red radiant heat is usually supplied with reflector backed
tubular metal elements, resistance wire coils or a bank of infra-red lamps.
Types of infra-red heating
A. Gas: Can be open flame (less common) or gas catalytic. Economical to run
but poor control of the heat, impossible to control the heat profile.
B. Calrod: Electrical resistance elements such as the type used in domestic
ovens. It is a nichrome wire surrounded by a silicon or mica insulator.
C. Nichrome Wire: An exposed nichrome wire without insulation usually set into
channels in a ceramic or other insulative panel.
D. Ceramic Heating Elements: A nichrome wire embedded in an insulator and then
sheathed in a ceramic tube.
E. Infrared Panel Heaters: Tungsten wire elements mounted in channels within
an insulator panel.
F. Quartz Heating Element: The most common type of heating. You can better
control the heat profile either by screening off sections or if the system has
it, automated control of each heating zone. They use a tungsten wire element
encased in a quartz tube.
G. Halogen: Like the quartz heating element, this heat source is a tungsten
wire encased in a quartz tube but the tube is sealed and filled with an inert
halogen gas preventing oxidation of the element. This allows the element to go
to much higher temperatures without burning out. The very best control of heat
profile and heat flow. They are not as common because these systems are
comparatively more expensive.
More uniform heat distribution can sometimes be accomplished by mounting a fine wire-mesh screen between the sheet and the heat source. A Temperature Controlled technology, such as a solid state PLC or percentage timer on older apparatus should always be used for consistent results. Top infra-red heaters should be approximately 12″ (30 cm) from the sheet. Bottom heaters can be 18 to 20″ (45 to 50 cm) away.
2.3 Bending
INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 11
1. Vacuum forming
Strip heating is sometimes used for specialized forming jobs. For example, a strip heater can be used to make simple bends in INDUROTM Sheet. Strip heaters can be purchased from plastics suppliers or can be constructed from “Nichrome” heating elements encased in ceramic or “Pyrex” tubing. To prevent distortion or damage to the sheet surface, the INDUROTM Sheet should be kept at least 1/2″ (13 mm) away from the hot tube. See Figure 9 for typical strip heater arrangement.
A. Heated sheet in clamp frame. B. Mold is mechanically positioned to heated
sheet,
forming a seal. Vacuum is then applied to form part.
2. Drape vacuum forming
Figure 9 Bending
2.4 Three-Dimensional Forming
Techniques for three-dimensional forming of plastic generally require vacuum,
air pressure, mechanical assists or combinations of all three to manipulate
the heated sheet into the desired shape. The basic forming techniques used for
INDUROTM Sheet are illustrated in the following drawings and described below.
A. Heated sheet in clamp frame. B. The mold is forced into the sheet to a
depth that
forms a seal around the periphery. Vacuum is then applied to form the part.
3. Vacuum/snap-back forming
A. Heated sheet in clamp frame. B. Position vacuum chamber to heated sheet to
form seal. Apply vacuum to form bubble to predetermined height. C. Insert mold
into heated/pre-stretched sheet to form seal. Air control relieves vacuum in
preform vacuum chamber.
Apply vacuum to mold to form part.
12 | INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE
4. Pressure bubble/snap-back forming
A. Heated sheet in clamping frame. B. Position pressure chamber into heated
sheet to form seal. Apply pressure to pre-stretched sheet to controlled
height. C. Insert mold into pre-stretched bubble at a controlled rate. Insert
to depth required to form a seal. 5. Heated plug assist forming
A. Heated sheet in clamping frame. B. Position mold into heated sheet to form
seal. Insert heated plug at controlled rate to the depth required for
preforming. C. Apply vacuum to form part. 6. Pressure bubble/plug
assist/vacuum forming
A. Heated sheet in clamping frame. B. Position mold into heated sheet to form
pressure seal. Apply pressure to pre-stretched sheet to controlled height. C.
Insert heated plug into bubble at a controlled rate to the depth required for
preforming. D. Apply vacuum to form part
INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 13
2.5 Molds
Wood — Wooden molds are easily fabricated, inexpensive and can be altered
readily. Wood molds are ideal for short production runs where mold mark-off is
not important and for prototyping.
Epoxy — Epoxy molds yield the least amount of mold mark-off of any of the mold
materials used. Epoxy molds can be used for medium production runs and have
good durability provided they are properly fabricated.
Aluminum — Aluminum molds are used in high production operations. Aluminum
molds will last indefinitely with little maintenance required.
Thermoforming troubleshooting guide
Problem Blistering
Probable Cause · Sheet to hot
Poor definition of detail. Incomplete forming
· Sheet too cold · Low vacuum · Sheet too thick · Low air pressure
Excessive thinning at bottom of draw or corners
· Poor technique · Sheet too thin · Drawdown too fast
Extreme wall thickness variations
· Uneven sheet heating · Mold too cold · Sheet slipping · Stray air currents
Excessive sag
· Sheet too hot
Corrective Action
· Reduce time heaters or reduce voltage
· Move heater farther away · Use screening if localized
· Increase heat input to sheet · Check for leaks in vacuum
system · Increase number and/or size
of vacuum holes · Add vacuum capacity · Use thinner caliper sheet · Increase
volume and/or pressure
· Change forming cycle to include billowing or plug assist
· Use screening to control temperature profile
· Use thicker sheet · Decrease rate of drawdown
· Check temperature profile · Change heaters to provide
higher uniform mold surface temp · Check cooling system for scale or plugs ·
Adjust clamping frame to provide uniform pressures · Provide protection to
eliminate drafts
· Reduce time or temperature
14 | INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE
Problem Pits or pimples
Part sticking to mold
Probable Cause
· Vacuum holes too large · Vacuum rate too high · Dirt on mold or sheet
· Rough mold surface · Undercuts too deep · Not enough draft
Mark-off
· Dirt on sheet · Dirt on mold · Dirt in atmosphere · Sheet too hot
Distortion in finished part
· Part removed too hot · Uneven heating
Corrective Action
· se smaller holes · Decrease vacuum rate or level · Clean mold and/or sheet
· Polish mold · Reduce undercuts · Change to split mold · Increase draft of
mold
· Clean sheet · Clean mold · Clean vacuum forming area · Isolate area if
necessary and
supply filtered air · Reduce heat and heat more
slowly
· Increase cooling time before removing part
· Check cooling system · Check temperature profile · Correct mold design —
stiffen
to eliminate.
2.6 Thermoforming with Polyethylene Film
Temporary polyethylene film barrier
Polyethylene film (polyfilm) is used as a temporary protective film on the top
surface of the INDUROTM continuous cast sheet. Some processors may choose to
leave the polyfilm on the acrylic surface during thermoforming. Trinseo does
not recommend or oppose the use of this procedure; however some manufacturers
use this procedure very successfully. Leaving the film on during thermoforming
can cause problems if not done properly. For example, if the acrylic surface
is overheated, the film may bond so tight that it is virtually impossible to
remove it. Also, film left on a finished part will gradually bond tighter and
tighter as time goes by. Film left on for more than one (1) year probably
cannot be removed.
It is recommended that if the sheets have been sitting unwrapped or exposed
for an extended period of time, to remove the polyfilm masking prior to
forming. Since the protective film can absorb moisture, it could possibly
transmit the moisture to the sheet when heating and cause blisters in the
finished part.
Damage to the film may make it desirable to remove the film prior to
thermoforming. Rough handling may scratch, tear or partially remove the film.
Forming with the film damaged may leave unwanted marks on the acrylic surface.
Once the film is removed from the sheet, it cannot be laid back on the
surface. Air or other contaminates can become trapped under the film and cause
markoff on the finished product.
INDUROTM FORMING AND FABRICATION GUIDE | 15
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