CORSA 270-10889 Marine Solenoid and Harness Installation Guide

August 29, 2024
CORSA

CORSA 270-10889 Marine Solenoid and Harness

Product Information

Specifications

  • Product Name: Corsa Performance Marine Solenoid & Harness
  • Connector Types: White Connector (Four-Wire Solenoid), Black Connector (Three-Wire Solenoid)
  • Power Requirements: 12V
  • Current Draw: Hold coil – 0.7 amps

Product Usage Instructions

Four-Wire Solenoid Testing Procedures (White Connector)

  1. Disconnect solenoid from harness at quick disconnect and check terminals for corrosion.
  2. Jumper the wires to the hold circuit as shown in Diagram B and manually move the plunger into the solenoid body.
  3. If solenoid fails any procedures or contacts are highly corroded, contact Corsa Performance for replacement.

Three-Wire Solenoid Testing Procedure (Black Connector)

  1. Disconnect solenoid from harness at quick disconnect and check] terminals for corrosion.
  2. If solenoid fails the procedure, contact Corsa Performance for replacement.

Harness Assemblies Testing Procedure

  1. Ensure ground and positive connections are clean and free of corrosion.
  2. Disconnect solenoids from harness and clean terminals if needed.
  3. Test current flow between red and black wires with power supplied and switch on.
  4. Test current flow between green and white wires with switch on; current will be opened by a timer after a brief period.
  5. If harness fails any test procedures, contact Corsa Performance for possible replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):
Q: What should I do if the solenoid contacts are highly corroded?
A: Contact Corsa Performance for a replacement solenoid.

Installation Instructions

At CORSA Performance we are committed to maintaining customer satisfaction long after the purchase of our product. For that reason, we have prepared this instruction manual to help you with your solenoid replacement. Carefully read through the following instructions and if at any point you have a problem or need clarification. please call: 1-800-486-0999, Mqndoy – Friday 8 A.M. to S P.M. EST.
Please inspect the parts you have received with those listed below. Report any damaged or missing parts immediately.

  • A. Solenoid

  • B. Plunger with Boot and Spring
    (Needed only if replacing solenoid and plunger)

  • C. Plastic Template (Not shown)

NECESSARY TOOLS

  • 3/16″ allen wrench
  • 7 /16″ wrench
  • Template – provided by CORSA
  • standard screwdriver
  • Thread Lock
    (only if replacing solenoid and plunger) 3/8″ wrench

REMOVING OLD SOLENOID

  • If your solenoid and plunger are bound together, go onto section for Removing Old Solenoid and Plunger.
  • If your plunger moves freely, continue below. {You wiff need to replace the solenoid itself. The plunger, bpot and spring you received on the new solenoid should be removed; It will not be needed for the replacement.)
  • Uncllp the solenoid from the wiring harness. Then, use a 7 /16″ wrenc_h and a 3/16″ allen wrench to remove the solenoid from _the diverter. If the solenoids have extension brackets, remove the solenoid from the bracket as shown. Do not remove the bracket from the ·diverter.
  • As you loosen the aflen bolts, the solenoid will try to move because of the spring inside the plunger boot. Let the plunger boot come off the solenoid (or pull it), but be careful not to lose the spring inside. Stive the nuts, bolts and spring for use on the new solenoid and clean•·the  plunger shaft of any built up residue.
  • Now go to the section tor Installing New Solenoid or Installing New Solenoid with Extension Bracket.

REMOVING OLD SOLENOID AND PLUNGER

Removing solenoid from  cutout with extension bracl<et.

The first step is to remove the diverter from the engine. (WD-40 sprayed be1ween the hoses and tubing will help break the seal and will also ease reinstallation.)
After removing the diverter from the boat, the next step is to unbolt the solenoid from the diverter using a 7 /16″ wrench and a 3/16″ allen wrench. If your solenoids use exten­sion brackets, unbolt the solenoid from the bracket as shown above. Do.not.remove  the bracket from the diverter. (Save the nuts bolts and spring for toter use}

The plunger will also have to be unscrewed from the linkage assembly on the diverter. To do this, use a 3/8″ wrench on the  plunger nut and a 7 /16″ wrench on the  lock nut to loosen and remove the plunger and solenoid from the linkage.

INSTALLING NEW PLUNGER
Pull the new plunger off of the new solenoid, being careful not to lose the spring inside the boot. Put a few drops of thread lock inside the threaded end of the plunger and screw it onto the linkage assembly up to the lock nut.

INSTALLING NEW SOLENOID

  • Note: If your solenoids use extension brackets, skip to next section.
  • Place a drop of thread lock on the end of an alien bolt and position the new solenoid onto the diverter. Put the lower nut and bolt on first, but do not tighten completely. Then, with  the spring around the plunger, move the solenoid until the plunger can slide into the hole on the solenoid. Carefully push the plunger into the solenoid compressing the spring until the fop bolt can be inserted and then tightened lightly.
  • Next, pull the plunger boot over the lip on the solenoid to keep out any debris and then  proceed to the section for Aligning the Solenoid.

INSTALLING NEW SOLENOID WITH EXTENSION BRACKET

With the spring around  plunger, place the boot through the extension bracket as seen in the illustration. Insert the  plunger into the new solenoid and pull the  plunger boot over the lip on the new solenoid.
By holding the linkage and sol.enoid,  compress the spring until the  solenoid reaches the bracket I and can be bolted together  lightly. (This may be ] easier with two people.)  Use thread loc’k  on all bolts.

  • Before the solenoid is completely tightenec;t it must first be aligned. To do this, slide the  plunger in and out of the solenoid to feel for any binding. If it does not move freely, try to twist the solenoid or you may even have to slightly bend the bracket up or down until you reach the smoothest position. If the solenoid is not (!orrec(/y aligned, it may eventually fail. After aligning thasolenoid, completely tighten each alien bolt and test for binding again.
  • At this point, if you received a new wiring harness, turn off or disconnect the batteries and remove the old wiring. Refer to the enclosed wiring diagram for the new installation. After replacing the wiring, test the system and the new solenoid.
  • If you only had to replace the solenoid, connect the solenoid to the wiring harness and test the system for proper function.
  • If you had to replace the solenoid and the plunger, go onto next section.

VALVE ADJUSTMENT

  • NOTE· If only replacing solenoid, disregard this section.
  • To complete this step, the wiring harness needs to be connected to the diverters and  batteries connected.
  • Turn on the diverters so the valves are open. Using the template provided and following  the directions on it. slide the template into the inlet of the diverfer. The slot in the template should slip over the valve for correct alignment. If it doesn’t, unplug the harness from the  solenoid so it can be adjusted as follows:
  • Using a 3/8″ wrench, thread the plunger nut further up or down the linkage assembly. Then, plug the solenoid back in and use the template to test again. Repeat until the valve is  aligned with the slot in the template and then tighten the lock nut against the plunger with a 7 /16″ wrench. If the valve is not correctly aligned,
  • the force  of the exhaust gases pushing on the valve could eventually cause the solenoid to fail.
  • The last step is to reinstall ‘the diverters. When the diverters are installed, make sure there are 2 clomps on the ends of each joint hose firmly clamping the hose around the tubing. The  clamps should not be on an edge or in a gap in between the tubing. Also, all wires and  cables should be clear of the linkage and exhaust  system with no sharp bends in them.
  • It is recommended to test the system for /eoks. Double check all connections and clomps and run the system in water or with a fresh water hook-up before taking the boot out.
  • Failure to test the system could result in dangerous carbon monoxide and/or water build up in the engine compartment if the exhaust system leaks.
  • Your installation is now complete. If you have any questions or comments regarding the installation or performance of your diverters, please call! 1-800-486-0999

Corsa Performance Marine Solenoid & Harness Testing Procedures 

Solenoids/Actuators
Four-Wire Solenoid Testing Procedures (White Connector)

  1. Disconnect solenoid from harness at quick disconnect and check terminals for corrosion. Terminal plugs should be locked in place to the connector and should not come out. If terminals come out of the connector easily, it may not be making good contact with its mating terminal.

  2. If terminals are free of corrosion and are firmly held in place in connector, jumper wires directly to the battery, as indicated in the diagram and following test procedures, to determine if the solenoid is functioning properly.
    (see diagram A and B)
    Test pull coil circuit first then proceed to the hold coil circuit.
    When test the pull coil, only make contact briefly (less than two seconds) as the pull coil draws up to 35 amps. The solenoid plunger should retract into the solenoid body. The plunger should return to its previous position when power is disconnected.
    When testing the hold coil, contact can be made for a longer duration. Jumper the wires to the hold circuit as described in the diagram and manually move the plunger into the solenoid body. The hold coil only draws 0.7 amps and does not have the power to pull the plunger in. Plunger should stay in the solenoid until power is disconnected.

  3. If the solenoid fails any of the above procedures or contacts are highly corroded; contact CorsaPerformance for a replacement solenoid.

Three-Wire Solenoid Testing Procedure (Black Connector)

  1. Disconnect solenoid from harness at quick disconnect and check terminals for corrosion. Terminal plugs should be locked in place to the connector and should not come out. If terminals come out to the connector easily, it may not be making good contact with the mating terminal.

  2. If terminals are free of corrosion and are firmly held in place in connector, jumper wires directly to the battery, as indicated in the diagram and following test procedure, to determine if the solenoid is functioning properly.
    (see diagram C)
    Connect the black wire first, followed by the white wire. When the red wire is connected the solenoid, plunger should pull in and stay in until either the red or black wire is disconnected. The white and black wires should stay cool even after a few seconds have passed. When disconnected the solenoid should return to its previous position.

  3. If the solenoid fails the above procedure, the white or black wires get hot, or the contacts are highly corroded; contact Corsa Performance for a replacement solenoid.

Corsa Performance Marine Solenoid & Harness Testing Procedures


Harness Assemblies

Testing Procedure for Four-Wire Solenoid Wiring Harness (White Connector)

  1. Make sure that the ground connection and 12-volt positive connections are clean and free of corrosion. Due to the high current draw of the system, any terminal that does not make a complete contact may cause a failure condition.
  2. Disconnect the solenoids from the harness at their respective quick disconnects. Check for any corrosion at these terminals, clean and retry harness operation if corrosion is found. Terminal plugs should be locked in place to the connector and should not come out. If terminals come out of the connector easily, it may not be making good contact with its mating terminal.
  3. Place a test light or voltmeter probe into the red and black wire terminals in the quick disconnect connector. With power supplied to the harness and the helm switch in the on position, current will flow between the red and black wires at 12V minimum.
  4. Place the test light or voltmeter probes into the green and white wire terminals. Have an assistant turn the switch to the “on” position. For a brief period, current will flow between the green and the white wires. After that time the current will be opened by a timer in the harness.
  5. If harness fails to operate properly in any of the test procedures; contact Corsa Performance for possible replacement.

Testing Procedure for Three-Wire Solenoid Wiring Harness (Black Connector)

  1. Make sure the ground connection and the 12-volt positive connections are clean and free of corrosion. Due to the high current draw of the system, any terminal that does not make a complete contact may cause a failure condition.
  2. Disconnect the solenoids from the harness at their respective quick disconnects. Check for any corrosion at these terminals, clean and retry harness operation if corrosion is found. Terminal plugs should be locked in place to the connector and should not come out. If terminals come out of the connector easily, it may not be making good contact with its mating terminal.
  3. Place a test light or volt meter probe into the white and black wire in the quick disconnect connector. With power supplied to the harness, current will flow between the white and black wires continuously at 12V minimum
  4. Place the test light or volt meter probe into the red and black wire terminals in the quick disconnect connector. With power supplied to the harness, current will flow between the white and black wires continuously at 12V minimum.
  5.  If harness fails to operate properly in any of the test procedures; contact Corsa Performance for possible replacement.

Corsa Performance Marine Solenoid & Harness Testing Procedures

  1. 10067 Valve Disc * (2)
  2. 10102-175L-20 Left Facing Shaft** (1)
  3. 10102-175R-20 Right Facing Shaft** (1)
  4.  10101-230 3/8 Square assembly with nut and screw * (2)
  5. 10099 7/32 E-Clip * (4)
  6. 10097 ¼-20 Solenoid nuts * (4)
  7. 10096 ¼-20 Solenoid screws * (4)
  8. 10092 ¼ flat washer * (8)
  9. 10080 Transfer link * (4)
  10. 10079 Grooved pin * (4)
  11. 0064 Viton O-Rings ** (4)
  12. 10063 10-24 Valve disc screws ** (4)
  13. 10114 Alignment tool (not pictured) (1)
  14. 10870 Solenoid (sold separately)
  15. 10826 Repair kit contents *
  16. 10102-REPL Shaft kit replacement kit **

CAPTAIN’S CALL ELECTRIC DIVERTER WIRING INSTRUCTIONS

  1.  Your wiring kit includes a universal circuit breaker bracket that is designed for use on any application. Refer to the illustrations at right for assembling the bracket to best suit your particular application. Bracket extension, nut, bolt and washer included.
  2. Installation of the new solid state wiring harness is done with a few simple connections as follows: Route all wires carefully as to avoid contact with or come in close proximity to any item that may get extremely hot. Example: Where exhaust manifold mates to engine. The positive (RED) wire is secured to the positive terminal on top of the starting battery. The negative (BLACK) wire is secured to the ground on the rear of the engine. You can follow the negative (BLACK) wire from the battery to help you locate the ground connection. NOTE: The ground post must be clean prior to installation. A faulty ground will cause the harness to fail and/or become extremely hot. Make sure the grounding nut is tight before operating system. The LONG RED wire is connected to an auxiliary panel switch at the helm. If possible, this switch should be activated by the ignition. Should the diverters be inadvertently left on, with the motor off, this will prevent draining of battery power.
  3. Lastly, connect the wiring harness to the diverter solenoids. Do not remove large zip ties from wire-loop on solenoid, unless extra length of wire from the solenoid to the harness is required. Your installation is now complete.

CAUTION! Fully read and understand wiring instructions before installing. Connection of the Positive lead to a Negative source will cause permanent damage to the product and void the warranty.

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