enerzone EB00044 Wood Insert

Product Information

Specifications:

• Model: EB00044
• Certifications: US EPA Phase II, ULC S628, UL 737, UL 1482 Standards
• Compliance: 2020 Cord Wood Standard
• Manufacturer: Stove Builder International Inc.
• Website: www.enerzone-intl.com

Product Usage Instructions

1. Installation

Ensure proper installation to prevent overheating of combustible materials nearby. Follow the installation instructions provided in the manual meticulously. Contact local authorities for any restrictions or inspection requirements in your area. Consider obtaining a building permit and consulting with your municipal building or fire department before installation.

2. Safety Guidelines

Read the entire manual before installing and using the wood insert. This product is designed as a supplementary heat source.
Have a primary heat source available as well. The manufacturer disclaims responsibility for costs related to other heating systems.

3. Maintenance and Performance

Refer to the manual for guidance on maintaining fires, optimizing performance, and caring for your wood heating system.
Regular maintenance will ensure longevity and efficiency of the wood insert.

4. Warranty Registration

To activate full warranty coverage, retain your sales invoice and register your warranty online at the manufacturer’s website.
This will expedite any future service needs and ensure proper tracking of your insert’s information.

FAQs

• Q: Where can I find the manual for this product?
  • A: The manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s website.
• Q: What should I do if my insert is not properly installed?
  • A: Improper installation may lead to overheating of nearby materials. Contact local authorities for guidance and follow the installation instructions carefully to reduce the risk of fire.

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Destination 2.3 Insert
(EB00044 model)

INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
MANUAL
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY PHASE II
CERTIFIED WOOD INSERT COMPLIANT WITH 2020
CORD WOOD STANDARD
Safety tested according to ULC S628, UL 737 and UL 1482 Standards by an accredited laboratory

www.enerzone-intl.com
Stove Builder International Inc. 250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de- Desmaures
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3 After-sale service: 1-877-356-6663 E-mail: tech@sbi- international.com

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE

This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual from time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages arising out of the use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized sources.

Printed in Canada

45925A 2024-01-10

THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS ENERZONE WOOD INSERT
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers, Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for safe and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this insert as you build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
It is highly recommend that this wood burning hearth product be installed and serviced by professionals who are certified by a «Qualified Agency» such as NFI (National Fireplace Institute®) or CSIA (Chimney Safety Institute of America) in the United States and in Canada by WETT (Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association des Professionnels du Chauffage).
Congratulations on making such a wise purchase.
If this insert is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To reduce the risk of fire, follow the installation instructions in this manual exactly. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new insert. You may need to get a building permit for the installation of this insert and the chimney that it is connected to. Consult your municipal building department or fire department before installation. We recommend that you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the installation will affect your policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We recommend that a primary heat source also be available in the home. The manufacturer cannot be responsible for costs associated with the use of another heating system.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of the date you purchased your insert. Keep your sales invoice. We also
recommend that you register your warranty online at: https://www.enerzone- intl.com/en/warranty/warranty-registration/ Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your insert.

CERTIFICATION PLATE

Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

PART A – OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.

Safety Information

· Operate only with door fully closed or fully open with fire screen in place. If door is left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the opening, creating risks from both fire and smoke.
· HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR INSERT OPERATION.
· Using an insert with cracked or broken components, such as glass or firebricks or baffles may produce an unsafe condition and may damage the insert.
· Open the air control fully before opening the loading door. · This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen
(ac01315, sold separately). The door may be open or fire screen removed only during lighting procedures or reloading. Always close the door or put back the fire screen after ignition. Do not leave the insert unattended when the door is opened with or without fire screen.
· NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START A FIRE IN THIS INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT WHILE IT IS IN USE.
· Do not store fuel within heater minimum installation clearances. · Burn only seasoned natural firewood.
· This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual
· This appliance should always be maintained and operated in accordance with these instructions.
· Do not elevate the fire by means of grates, and irons or other means.
· A smoke detector, a carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher should be installed in the house. The location of the fire extinguisher should be known by all family members.
This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon monoxide, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to http://www.P65warnings.ca.gov

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General Information

2.1 Performances(1)
Model

Destination 2.3 (EB00044)

Fuel type

Dry cordwood

Recommended heating area[*]

500 to 2,100 ft2 (47 to 195 m2)

Overall firebox volume(2)

2.4 ft3 (0.068 m3)

EPA loading volume

1.95 ft3 (0.055 m3)

Maximum burn time[*]

8 hours

Maximum heat output (dry cordwood)(3)

75,000 BTU/h (22.0 kW)

Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)(3)(4)

14,200 BTU/h to 44,500 BTU/h (4.16 kW to 13.04 kW)

Average overall efficiency(4) – Dry cordwood

72% (HHV)5

77% (HHV)5

Optimum overall efficiency(3)(7)

79%

Optimum heat transfer efficiency(8)

76%

Average particulate emissions rate(9)

2.3 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)(10)

Average CO(11)

69 g/h

[*] Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, heat loss
factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the
manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a
power failure. (1) Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume, maximum burn
time and maximum heat output. (2) The overall firebox calculation is an approximation and is not intended to be used for loading. This volume includes a
buffer zone to allow an easier fuel insertion, prevent ash spillage and allow the air wash to work properly. (3) The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft3 and 20 lb/ft3.
Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft3. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%. (4) As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method. (5) Higher Heating Value of the fuel. (6) Lower Heating Value of the fuel. (7) Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV). (8) The optimum heat transfer efficiency is for the low burn rate and represents the appliance’s ability to convert the
energy contained in the wood logs into energy transferred to the room in the form of heat and does not take into
account the chemical losses during combustion. (9) This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency. (10) Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and ASTM E3053-17.
Based on ALT-125 sent by EPA on February 28th, 2018. (11) Carbon monoxide.

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

2.2 Specifications

Recommended log length

16 in (406 mm) east-west

Maximum log length

20 in (508 mm) east-west*

Flue outlet diameter

6 in (150 mm)

Recommended connector pipe diameter

6 in (150 mm)

Type of chimney

ULC-S635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL 1777

Minimum chimney height

12 feet

Baffle material

C-Cast or equivalent

Approved for alcove installation Approved for mobile home installation

Not approved Not approved

Shipping weight (without option)

478 lb (217 kg)

Appliance weight (without option)

422 lb (191 kg)

Type of door

Single, glass with cast iron frame

Type of glass

Ceramic glass

Blower Particulate emission standard

Included (up to 90 CFM) EPA / CSA B415.1-103

USA standard (safety)

UL 1482, UL 737

Canadian standard (safety)

ULC S628

** East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you see the tips of the logs.
Mobile home (Canada) or manufactured home (USA): The US department of Housing and Urban Development describes “manufactured homes” better known as “mobile homes” as followed; buildings built on fixed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent foundation. In Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is completed or substantially completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and connection to service facilities and which conforms to the CAN/CSA-Z240 MH standard
3 Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and ASTM E3053-17. Based on ALT-125 sent by EPA on February 28th, 2018.

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2.3 Dimensions

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

2.4 EPA Certification Loading
For EPA Certification testing, wood logs were 16 ± 1 inches long and the specie used was hard maple.
2.4.1 Air control
The air control is located underneath the ash shelf. To open the air control, pull the air control handle completely (High). This will increase the burn rate. To close the air control, push the air control handle completely (Low). This will decrease the burn rate.
2.4.2 High burn rate
Open the air control completely. Place height small pieces (2″ x 2″) of wood in the firebox crossing them at the greatest possible angle. Criss cross 10 to 16 kindling wood pieces on the small pieces of wood in three layers at the greatest possible angle.

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Tie knot with five sheets of paper and place them on top of the kindling wood. Light up the paper and let the door ajar at 90° until all the kindling wood is on fire and the first row of small pieces of wood is on fire too. Close the door. When there is no more fire in the front of the firebox and there are only faint flames on the wood in the back of the firebox, break ashes, level the coal bed and put five logs in the firebox. Put 3 pieces on the coal bed, without air space between them. Leave one inch of air space between the rear firebrick and the first piece. The two other pieces should be added on top of the first 3, in an East-West configuration. Let the door ajar to leave a space of one inch on the door handle’s side for 1 minute maximum and then close the door.
2.4.3 Medium and low burn rate
On a two inches thick coal bed that is still red, place three logs in an East- West orientation. There should be air space between each log and between the logs and the bricks. The two other pieces should be added on top of the first three, slightly angled of 20°. Let the door ajar at 90° for approximately 5 min. Then, close the door with the primary air control open. Leave to burn with the primary air control open for approximately 10 more minutes and then close the primary air control completely for the low burn rate and halfway for the medium burn rate. For better results, close the air control gradually from the closing of the door to the complete closing of the air control.
2.5 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You
Your new wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized and located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is located in the part of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the insert in this area, you will get the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood than with other forms of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that are heated all winter.
2.6 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Destination 2.3 firebox mean that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside environment than if you used an older conventional insert. But there is more to the emission control technologies than protecting the environment.

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from the wood instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney.
Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work properly if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section 3 of this manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.7 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.7.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of? The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new products, thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds) is very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder to form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, a product processed from a mined mineral. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 4 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made of natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a high temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass, so it should not b
e disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

3 Fuel
MATERIALS THAT SHOULD NOT BE BURNED:
– COAL; – GARBAGE; – LAWN CLIPPINGS OR YARD WASTE; – MATERIALS CONTAINING RUBBER, INCLUDING TIRES; – MATERIALS CONTAINING PLASTIC;

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– WASTE PETROLEUM PRODUCTS, PAINTS OR PAINT THINNERS, OR ASPHALT PRODUCTS;
– MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS; – CONSTRUCTION OR DEMOLITION DEBRIS; – RAILROAD TIES OR PRESSURE-TREATED WOOD; – MANURE OR ANIMAL REMAINS; – SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD OR OTHER PREVIOUSLY SALT-WATER SATURATED
MATERIALS; – UNSEASONED WOOD; OR
– PAPER PRODUCTS, CARDBOARD, PLYWOOD, OR PARTICLEBOARD. THE PROHIBITION AGAINST BURNING THESE MATERIALS DOES NOT PROHIBIT THE USE OF FIRE STARTERS MADE FROM PAPER, CARDBOARD, SAW DUST, WAX AND SIMILAR SUBSTANCES FOR THE PURPOSE OF STARTING A FIRE IN AN AFFECTED WOOD HEATER.
BURNING THESE MATERIALS MAY RESULT IN RELEASE OF TOXIC FUMES OR RENDER THE HEATER INEFFECTIVE AND CAUSE SMOKE.
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.1.1 What is Good Firewood? Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.1.2 Tree Species The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are not as dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable.
The advice that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron inserts wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break at the same time.

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

3.1.3 Log Length Logs should be cut at least 1″ (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are even slightly too long make loading the insert very difficult. The most common standard length of firewood is 16″ (400 mm). The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1″ (25 mm) variation from piece to piece.
3.1.4 Piece Size Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3″ (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.

Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3″ to 6″ (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.1.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts. Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of heat and dirty glass door. See Section 6: Maintaining your wood heating system for concerns about creosote.

Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
· Firewood takes a long time to dry; · Firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood in
spring and dry it yourself; · Drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates; · Drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather; · Small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces; · Split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds;

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· Softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods; · Softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked in
the open for only the summer months; · Hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if the
pieces are big; · Firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed; · Firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will
allow your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency.
3.1.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
· Cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry; · As it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream
colored to grey or yellow; · Bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds
hollow and wet wood sounds dull; · Dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood; · Split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry
enough to burn; if it feels damp, it is too wet; · Burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
A wood moisture meter can be bought to test your firewood.
3.2 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution in the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the insert reacts. Never use more than two manufactured logs.

Operating the Insert

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
4.1 Before Operating the Insert
If necessary, before using the insert, the following steps should be completed:
· Install the fresh air inlet (see “Appendix 1: Installing the optional fresh air intake kit”) · Install the faceplate backing plate and the projection kit
(see “Appendix 2: Installing the faceplate”)

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

4.2 The Use of a Fire Screen.

In the United States or in provinces with a particulate emission limit (eg US EPA), the use of wood stoves with open door with and fire screen is prohibited.

This stove has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold separately. Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the stove to avoid any risk of fire. When the fire screen is in use, it is important not to leave the stove unattended to respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke spillage are described in Section 10 The Venting System of this manual. See Appendix 4: Installing the Fire Screen for installation instructions.

4.3 Blower Operation

A blower is already installed on this insert. It is located underneath the insert, behind the bottom faceplate. Its function is to increase airflow through the heat exchanger and improve hot air circulation in the room. When used regularly, the blower can provide a small increase in efficiency, up to 2%. However, the use of a blower should not be used as a way to gain more output from an insert that is undersized for the space it is intended to heat.
Ensure the blower cord is not in contact with any surface of the insert to prevent electrical shock or fire damage. Do not run cord beneath the insert.

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5 Burning Wood Efficiently
5.1 The First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal components of the insert are conditioned. As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first light your insert, be prepared by opening doors or windows to ventilate the house. As you burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot fires. Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the insert. Once the paint smell disappears, your insert is ready for serious heating.
5.2 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and effective ways to start wood fires.
Allow the insert to reach operating temperature (approximately one hour) before turning on the blower, since increased airflow from the blower will remove heat and affect the start up combustion efficiency.
The insert’s blower assembly is equipped with a heat sensor. Therefore, you can leave the switch in the automatic position (3). The blower will start automatically when the insert is hot enough and it will stop when the insert has cooled down. You can also set the switch to the manual position (1) to operate the blower at any time. Select the position (2) to manually stop the blower.

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

5.2.1 Conventional Method
The conventional way to build a wood fire is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain newspaper and place them in the firebox. Next, place 10 or so pieces of fine kindling on the newspaper. This kindling should be very thin; less than 1″ (25 mm). Next, place some larger kindling pieces on the fine kindling. Open the air control fully and light the newspaper. If you have a tall, straight venting system you should be able to close the door immediately and the fire will ignite. Once the fire has ignited, close the door and leave the air control fully open.

A conventional kindling fire with paper under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED. ALWAYS CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a fire of the right size for the conditions.
5.2.2 The Top Down Method The top down method solves two problems encountered when using the conventional method: first, the fire does not collapse on itself and smother as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire gradually since the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can burn for two hours or more. The top down method works properly only if well-seasoned wood is used.
Three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood are placed in the firebox. Then, 4 or 5 more finely split pieces of firewood (2″ to 3″ [50 mm to 75 mm] in diameter) are placed on the top of the logs at right angles (log cabin style). Next, a dozen finely split kindling are placed on the second layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with 5 sheets of newspaper, stuffed in between the kindling, under the baffle. Knots can be made in the newspaper by rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Newspaper is lit and the fire burns from top to bottom.
5.2.3 Two Parallel Logs Method Two spit logs are placed in the firebox with a few sheets of twisted newspapers in between the logs. Fine kindling is added across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style. Newspaper is lit.
5.2.4 Using Fire Starters Commercial fire starters can be used instead of a newspaper. Some of these starters are made of sawdust and wax and others are made of specialized flammable solid chemicals. Always follow the package directions when using.

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Gel starters can also be used, but only to light a fire, in a cold combustion chamber without hot embers inside.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
5.3 Maintaining Wood Fires
5.3.1 General Advice Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be temperature variations in different parts of the house and there will be temperature variations throughout day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners these are advantages of zone heating woodburning.
Wood inserts don’t have a steady heat output. It is normal for the temperature to rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decrease throughout the burning cycle. This increasing and decreasing temperature can be matched with the household routines. For example, the temperature in the area can be cooler when the household is active, and it can be warmer when it is inactive.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was when the wood was loaded. Trying to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals is not recommended. Always place at least three, and preferably more pieces on the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load may vary depending on the amount of heat required.
Burning in cycles means the insert door does not need to be opened while the wood is flaming. This is an advantage since it is preventing smoke leaking from the insert when the door is opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the chimney is on the outside wall of the house.
IF THE DOOR MUST BE OPENED WHILE THE FIRE IS FLAMING, FULLY OPEN AIR CONTROL FOR A FEW MINUTES THEN OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.
5.3.2 Ash Removal Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively cool, but there is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent it from coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the insert and placed in a tightly covered metal container, they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste should not be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN DECK.

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5.3.3 Raking Charcoal
When the room temperature is cooler, it is time to reload the insert. Remove the ashes first, then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before reloading. Most of the remaining charcoal will be at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake the coals towards the door before loading.

Raking the coals is useful for two reasons. First, it brings them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox. This will ignite the new load quickly. Secondly, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. When the embers are simply spread inside the combustion chamber, the new load smoulder for a long time before igniting.
5.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal. Close the door and open the air control fully until the firebox is full of flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood hot accomplishes the following things:
· Removes surface moisture from the wood, · Creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down the smoke release, · Heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and · Heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the fire to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the insert and the chimney, the result will be a surge of heat from the insert. This heat surge is welcome when the room temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm. Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little before loading. Letting the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning and effective zone heating.
5.3.5 Controlling the Air Intake Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for a steady burn.
As the air intake is reduced, the burn rate decreases. This has the effect of distributing the thermal energy of the fuel over a longer period of time. In addition, the flow rate of exhaust through the insert and flue pipe slows down, which increases the duration of the energy transfer of the exhaust gases. As the air intake is reduced, the flame slows down.

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If the flames diminish to the point of disappearing, the air intake has been reduced too early in the combustion cycle or the wood used is too wet. If the wood is dry and the air control is used properly, the flames should decrease, but remain bright and stable.

5.4 Fires Types
Using the air intake control is not the only way to match the insert heat output to the desired temperature in the house. A house will need far less heating in October than in January to maintain a comfortable temperature. Filling the firebox full in fall weather will overheat the space. Otherwise, the combustion rate will have to be reduced to a minimum and the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here are some suggestions for building fires suitable for different heating needs.
5.4.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and load them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3″ to 4″ in diameter. After raking the coals, you can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to corner in the firebox and lay two more across them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only reduce the air after the wood is fully flaming.
This kind of fire is good for mild weather when you are around to tend the insert and should provide enough heat for four hours or more. Small fires like this are a good time to use softer wood species so there will be less chance of overheating the house.
5.4.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense heat. In this case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the pieces are packed tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully char the log surfaces before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to burn.
5.4.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily and brightly. This is the time to use larger pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put the biggest pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built fire like this will produce the longest burn your insert is capable of.
You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down too much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to burn.
5.4.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption of that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for roughly the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which there is little or no flame.

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The length of burn you can expect from your insert, including both the flaming and coal bed phases, will be affected by a number of things, such as:
· Firebox size, · The amount of wood loaded, · The species of wood you burn, · The wood moisture content, · The size of the space to be heated, · The climate zone you live in, · The time of year.

The table below gives an approximate maximum burn cycle times, based on firebox volume.

FIREBOX VOLUME
<1.5 cubic feet 1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f 2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f. 2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f.

3.0 c.f.

MAXIMUM BURN TIME 3 to 5 hours 5 to 6 hours 6 to 8 hours 8 to 9 hours 9 to 10 hours

A longer burning time is not necessarily an indication of efficient insert operation. It is preferable to build a smaller fire that will provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer burn. Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the insert to the heat demand of the space.

5.4.5 Logs Orientation
In a relatively square firebox, the wood can be loaded north-south (ends of the logs visible) or eastwest (sides of the logs visible).
North-south loads allow more wood to be loaded at the same time. On the other hand, they break into smaller pieces faster. North-south loading is good for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather.
East-west loads allow a limited amount of wood since too many logs could cause them to fall on the glass. East-west loads, placed in a compact way, take a long time before breaking down. They are excellent for low-intensity, long- lasting fires in relatively mild weather.

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Maintaining Your Wood Heating System

6.1 Insert Maintenance
This insert will give many years of reliable service if used and maintained properly. Some of the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffle and air tubes will wear over time under intense heat. Defective parts should always be replaced with original parts. See «Appendix 7: Exploded Diagram and Parts List». Firing each load hot to begin a cycle as described above will not cause premature deterioration of the insert. However, letting the insert run with the air intake fully open for entire burn cycles can cause damage over time. The hotter the insert becomes throughout burn cycles, the more quickly its components will deteriorate. For this reason, the insert should never be left unattended while a new load is being fired hot.
6.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is dry enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty deposit will form on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and can be easily removed when the insert is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel and then drying. Never try to clean the glass when the insert is hot.
In spring and fall when the insert runs at lower temperatures, light brown stains may form, especially in the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the fire has been smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. It also indicates incomplete combustion of the wood, which also means more smoke emissions and faster formation of creosote in the chimney. The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the fuel quality and success in properly using the insert.
The goal should be having a clear glass with no brown stains. If brown stains appear regularly on the glass, something about the fuel or the operating procedure needs to be changed.
These stains can be cleaned with a special wood insert glass cleaner. Do not use abrasives to clean the insert glass. When the weather is mild, it is often better to let the fire go out than trying to maintain a continuous fire. Use the technique described in section «5.4.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House».
When brown streaks are coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket around the glass. The glass gasket should be self-adhesive. Follow the instructions in section «6.1.4 Replacing the Glass or the Glass Gasket» for installation. Always replace gaskets with genuine ones. See «Appendix 7: Exploded Diagram and Parts List».
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if the glass is broken.

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6.1.2 Door adjustment
In order for the insert to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal with the firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically to insure a good seal. The gasket seal may be improved with a simple latch mechanism adjustment. To adjust the pressure on the seal, unscrew the top and bottom bolts and move the plate forward or backward. To adjust the angle of the door handle, unscrew the left and right bolts and raise or lower the mechanism.

6.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket
It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the door gasket will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can test the condition of the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper. Test all around the door. If the paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the gasket.
Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter and density of the gasket is important to getting a good seal.
Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet. Remove the old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver. Then use the screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 1/4″ (6 mm) bead of high temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the middle of the hinge side, press the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Leave the gasket about 1/2″ long when you cut it and press the end into the groove. Tuck any loose fibres under the gasket and into the silicone. Close the door and do not use the insert for 24 hours.

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6.1.4 Replacing the Glass or the Glass Gasket

It is a good idea to replace the glass

gasket when the door gasket is

replaced. The gasket is flat,

adhesive-backed,

woven

fibreglass. Remove the glass

retaining screws (A) and clips (B)

then both metal frames (C) that

holds the glass to the door frame

(E). Lift out the glass (D) and pull off

the old gasket. This is a good time

to clean the glass thoroughly.

The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a section of the paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the adhesive side up. Stick the end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the edge of the glass down onto the gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the gasket. Peel off more of the backing and rotate the glass and press the next section onto the gasket. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Continue until you get to the start and trim the gasket to length. Now pinch the gasket to the glass in a U shape, all around the glass. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the glass carefully in the door. Do not over-tighten the screws. The two main causes of broken door glass are uneven placement in the door and over-tightening of retaining screws.

Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if the glass is broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
6.1.5 Cleaning and Painting the Insert Painted and plated surfaces can be wiped down with a soft, damp cloth. If the paint is scratched or damaged, it is possible to repaint the insert with a heat-resistant paint. Do not clean or paint the insert when it is hot. Before painting, the surface should be sanded lightly with sandpaper and then wiped off to remove dust. Apply two thin layers of paint. For best results, use the original paint, available in aerosol cans.

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6.1.6 Firebricks Before installing the firebrick, ensure that none are broken or damaged in any way, and replace the damaged ones. Check the firebrick for damage at least annually and replace any broken or damaged ones with new ones.
6.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance
6.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary? Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney, forming a inflammable deposit called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting system it can ignite when a hot fire is burned in the insert and a very hot fire can progress to the top of the chimney. Severe chimney fires can damage even the best chimneys. Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a thick layer of creosote to form. When the insert is operated properly, the exhaust from the chimney is mostly clear and creosote builds up more slowly.
6.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It is important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to the new insert until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms slowly in your system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
6.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney Chimney sweeping can be a difficult and dangerous job. People with no chimney sweeping experience will often prefer to hire a professional chimney sweep to inspect and clean the system for the first time. After seeing the cleaning process, some will choose to do it themselves.
The most common equipment used are fibreglass rods with threaded fittings and stiff plastic brushes. The brush is forced up and down inside the chimney flue to scrub off the creosote.
The chimney should be checked regularly for creosote build-up. Inspection and cleaning of the chimney can be facilitated by removing the baffle.
THE OPERATION OF THIS INSERT WITHOUT THE BAFFLE MAY CAUSE UNSAFE AND HAZARDOUS TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.

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PART B – INSTALLATION

Masonry Fireplace Requirements

The masonry fireplace must meet the minimum requirements found in the building code enforced locally, or the equivalent for a safe installation. Contact your local Building Inspector for requirements in your area. An inspection of the fireplace should include the following:
CONDITION OF THE FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY:
The masonry fireplace and chimney should be inspected prior to installation, to determine that they are free from cracks, loose mortar, creosote deposits, blockage, or other signs of deterioration. If evidence of deterioration is noted, the fireplace or chimney should be upgraded and/or cleaned prior to installation.
Masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke shelf and adjacent damper frame if necessary to accommodate the insert’s chimney liner, provided that their removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney, and will not reduce protection for combustible materials to less than that required by the building code.
CHIMNEY CAPS: Mesh type chimney caps must have provision for regular cleaning, or the mesh should be removed to eliminate the potential of plugging.
ADJACENT COMBUSTIBLES: The fireplace should be inspected to make sure that there is adequate clearance to combustibles, both exposed combustibles to the top, side, and front as well as concealed combustibles, in the chimney and mantle area. Your local inspector should have information on whether older fireplaces are of adequate construction.
OPENING SIZE: Refer to «Section 9.5 MINIMUM MASONRY OPENING AND CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLE” for suitable size fireplace openings.

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Safety Information and Standards

· THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE APPLIANCE ALWAYS
OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES AND/OR WEB SITES).
· MIXING OF APPLIANCE COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR MODIFYING COMPONENTS MAY
RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDTIONS. WHERE ANY SUCH CHANGES ARE PLANNED, STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC. SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
· ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE TESTING
AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND ANSI NFPA 211 (USA).
· CONNECT THIS INSERT ONLY TO A LISTED STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL.
· IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE ROOM.
· CAUTION: DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCTWORK
UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.
· CAUTION: DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
· THE INSERT AND ITS STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER ARE TO BE INSTALLED ONLY WITHIN A LINED
MASONRY CHIMNEY AND MASONRY FIREPLACE CONFORMING TO BUILDING CODES FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL. DO NOT REMOVE BRICKS OR MORTAR FROM THE EXISTING FIREPLACE WHEN INSTALLING THE INSERT.
· TO BE INSTALLED AS A FREESTANDING ROOM HEATER WITH THE CLEARANCES IN THE
MANUFACTURER’S INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. IT IS STRICTLY FORBIDDEN TO INSTALL THIS ROOM HEATER IN ANY FACTORY-BUILT FIREPLACE.
8.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation
When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the Destination 2.3 wood insert is suitable for use in residential installations. The Destination 2.3 wood insert is not intended for installation in a bedroom.
In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment and the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70 National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code requirements.
This insert must be installed with a continuous chimney liner of 6″ diameter extending from the insert to the top of the chimney. The chimney liner must conform to the Class 3 requirements of CAN/ULCS635, Standard for Lining Systems for Existing Masonry or Factory-built Chimneys and Vents, or CAN/ULC-S640, Standard for Lining Systems for New Masonry Chimneys.
The Insert is not approved for use with a so-called “positive flue connection” to the clay tile of a masonry chimney.

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Clearances to Combustible Material

The clearances shown in this section have been determined by test according to procedures set out in safety standards ULC S628 (Canada), UL1482 (U.S.A.) and UL737 (U.S.A.). When the insert is installed so that its surfaces are at or beyond the minimum clearances specified, combustible surfaces will not overheat under normal and even abnormal operating conditions.
No part of the insert may be located closer to combustibles than the minimum clearance figures given.
9.1 Certification Label
Since the information given on the certification label attached to the appliance always overrides the information published in any other media, it is important to refer to it to have a safe and compliant installation. The model and the serial number can also be found on the label.
The certification label is usually located on the side of the insert, towards the front. The faceplate may need to be removed to see it. Therefore, it is recommended to note the insert serial number on page 4 of this manual. It will be needed to identify the version of the appliance in the event replacement parts or technical assistance is required. It is also recommended to register the warranty online.
9.2 Masonry fireplace throat damper
If the fireplace’s draft control system is to remain in the masonry fireplace, it must be locked open for access of the chimney liner or removed entirely. If you remove draft control system from the masonry hearth, you will need to install the metal plate (27009), supplied with the owner’s manual kit, indicating that the masonry hearth has been modified. It must be secured inside the masonry hearth, in a visible place and easy to locate.

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9.3 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf
It is possible to install a combustible shelf with a maximum depth of 12″ at a height of at least 27″ above the insert. At a height of more than 27″, the shelf must still have a maximum depth of 12″.

MAXIMUM MANTEL SHELF DIMENSION (X)
12″ (305 mm) max.

MANTEL SHELF CLEARANCES (I)
27″ (686 mm) min.

9.4 Floor Protection
It is necessary to have a floor protection made of non-combustible materials that meets the measurements specified in the table below.

FLOOR PROTECTION

Canada

USA

B

18″ (457 mm)1 16″ (406 mm)1

M

8″ (203 mm)

N/A

N

N/A

8″ (203 mm)

1From door opening. The depth of the hearth extension in front of the insert is included in the calculation of the floor protector’s dimensions. The masonry hearth should be at least 5″ (127 mm) higher than the combustible floor in front of it and a floor protection must extend at least 16″ (406 mm USA) and at least 18″ (457 mm Canada) without an R value. If the hearth elevation is lower than 5″ (127 mm), the non-combustible floor protector in front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than 1.00 and shall extend 23″ (584 mm) in front of the unit.
To determine the need to add floor protection (D) beyond the hearth extension, do the following calculation using «Data for Floor Protection Calculation» of this section: D = B – (A – C).
The standard configuration of the insert leaves no projection of the convection air jacket in front of the fireplace opening. Therefore, the minimum projection is 0”. Although it is possible to position the insert to obtain a projection of 2” (51 mm) or 4” (102 mm) of the convection air jacket in front of the fireplace opening with the use of the projection kit. The choice of the configuration will depend on the previous installation instructions and compliance with building code.

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Data for Floor Protection Calculation

A

B

C

D

E

Air Jacket

Maximum Extended

Dimensions of the hearth
extension

See section 9.4.1 and 9.4.2

2″ / 4″ (51 / 102 mm)

D=B-(A-C)

10″ / 12″ (254 / 305 mm)

Back from fireplace facing 2″
or 4″

Minimum Extended

Dimensions of the hearth
extension

See section 9.4.1 and 9.4.2

0″ (0 mm)

D=B-(A-C)

14″ (356 mm)

Flush with fireplace
facing

If the value (D) is negative or zero, additional floor protection in front of the unit is not needed because the masonry fireplace hearth extension is large enough. If the value (D) is positive, an additional floor protection in front of the hearth extension at least equivalent to the result (D) must be added.

9.4.1 Installation Raised of 5″ and Less
If non-combustible material floor protection needs to be added in front of and level with the hearth extension of the masonry fireplace (F = 5″ or less), an R-value equal to or greater than 1.00 is required and should extend at least 23″ (584 mm) in front of the unit (B).

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9.4.2 Installation Raised of More than 5″
If the extension of the masonry hearth is raised at least 5″ (127 mm) from the floor protection, a noncombustible material, without an R-value, must extend at least 16″ (406 mm in USA) or 18″ (457 mm in Canada) in front of the unit.

9.4.3 R Value There are two ways to calculate the R-value of the floor protection. First, by adding the R-values of materials used, or by the conversion if the K factor and thickness of the floor protection are given.

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To calculate the total R value from R values of the materials used, simply add the R-values of materials. If the result is equal to or greater than the R-value requirements, the combination is acceptable. R-values of some selected materials are shown below:

Table 5: Thermal Characteristics of Common Floor Protection Materials*

MATERIAL
Micore® 160 Micore® 300 Durock® Hardibacker® Hardibacker® 500 Wonderboard® Cement mortar Common brick Face brick Marble Ceramic tile Concrete Mineral wool insulation Limestone Ceramic board (Fibremax) Horizontal still air** (1/8″)

CONDUCTIVITY (k) PER INCH 0.39 0.49 1.92 1.95 2.3 3.23 5.00 5.00 9.00
14.3 ­ 20.00 12.5 1.050 0.320 6.5 0.450 0.135

RESISTANCE (R) PER INCH THICKNESS
2.54 2.06 0.52 0.51 0.44 0.31 0.2 0.2 0.11 0.07 ­ 0.05 0.008 0.950 3.120 0.153 2.2 0,920**

• Information as reported by manufacturers and other resources
  **Horizontal still air can’t be «stack» to accumulate R-values; each layer must be separated with another non-combustible material.

Example:

Required floor protection R of 1.00. Proposed materials: four inches of brick and one inch of Durock® board.

Four inches of brick (R = 4 x 0,2 = 0,8) plus 1 inch of Durock® (R = 1 x 0.52 = 0.52).

0.8 + 0.52 = 1.32.

This R value is larger than the required 1.00 and is therefore acceptable.

In the case of a known K and thickness of alternative materials to be used in combination, convert all K values to R by dividing the thickness of each material by its K value. Add R values of the proposed materials as shown in the previous example.

Example:

K value = 0.75

Thickness = 1

R value = Thickness/K = 1/0.75 = 1.33

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9.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles

CLEARANCES

F

16″ (406 mm)

G

9″ (229 mm)

H

27″ (686 mm)

I

27″ (686 mm)

Q

84″ (213 cm)

MINIMUM MASONRY OPENING

J

23 3/4″ (603 mm)

K

28 7/8″ (733 mm)**

L

19 5/8″ (498 mm)***

MAXIMUM THICKNESS

O

5″ (127 mm)

P

12″ (305 mm)

• Where a fresh air intake is needed, we suggest you add a minimum of 4″ to the width of the minimum masonry opening.
  ** If projection kit is used L = 17 5/8″ or 15 5/8″. If installed without projection kit L = 19 5/8″.

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The Venting System

10.1 General
The venting system, made up of the chimney and the liner inside the chimney, acts as the engine that drives your wood heating system. Even the best insert will not function safely and efficiently as intended if it is not connected to a suitable chimney and liner system.
The heat in the flue gases that pass from the insert into the chimney is not waste heat. This heat is what the chimney uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air, keeps smoke inside the insert and safely vents exhaust to outside. The heat in the flue gas can be seen as the fuel the chimney uses to create draft.
10.2 Block-Off Plate
To reduce the possibility of a cold air back draft from the masonry chimney into the room, the installation of a sheet metal block-off plate (A) is recommended. When fabricating the block-off plate, cut the pipe hole slightly larger than the liner diameter and pass the liner through the hole. Install the block-off plate and secure it with masonry nails. Seal the joints between the plate and the chimney with high temperature silicone and use stove cement to seal between the pipe and the plate.
In Canada, the CSA B365 Standard permits «Roxul» type wool to be stuffed around the liner as it passes through the throat area as an alternative to a sheet metal block-off plate. However, this method is less efficient than using a plate.

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10.3 Suitable Chimneys
Your wood insert will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6″ diameter chimney liner. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at least 5″ (Canada only) is permitted, if it allows the proper venting of combustion gases and that such application is verified and authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the diameter of the flue should be 6″. The reduction of liner diameter to less than 6″ should only be done if the total height of the masonry chimney is greater than 20 feet.
10.4 Liner installation
We recommend the use of a chimney liner (rigid or flexible) to ensure satisfactory performance. To ensure an optimal draft, we also strongly recommend adding a minimum of 12″ rigid liner between the top of the masonry chimney and the rain cap. In all cases, liners should be installed in accordance with the liner manufacturer’s instructions, including instructions for extension above the masonry.
Use Listed Chimney Liners UL 1777, CAN/ULC S635 or S640.
In order to connect the insert to the liner, refer to «Section 10.5 Chimney liner installation».
ATTENTION INSTALLER: When positioning the unit in a fireplace opening prior to the flue installation, install the insert into the opening until the top lip of air jacket is flush with fireplace facing.
If lag-bolts or anchors are to be used to secure the insert, the hole locations should be marked with the unit in place. Remove the insert and locate the anchors.

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10.5 Liner Connection
Two options are possible to connect the liner to the insert: 10.5.1 Liner Starter Adaptor Two options are possible: Install the chimney liner starter adapter, provided with the chimney liner. Follow the chimney liner starter adapter manufacturer’s instructions. In order to connect the chimney liner starter adapter to the flue outlet, install three brackets with the three screws, all provided in the user manual, on top of the insert.
The long end of the brackets must be attached to the insert. Insert the chimney liner into the flue collar of the unit and secure the liner to the brackets with three self-tapping screws (not included). The dealer may offer a liner fastening system (AC02006), sold separately. Follow the installation instructions provided with the liner fastening system.

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

10.5.2 Liner Offset Adaptor
A liner offset adapter, sold separately, can also be installed. This should only be installed if no other option is possible and if the total height of the fireplace and chimney is at least 20 feet. This kind of adaptor is restricting the free flow of exhaust gases and may result in smoke roll-out from the insert when the door is open for reloading. When installing a liner offset adapter, secure the three brackets provided in the user manual on top of the insert. The long end of the brackets must be attached to the insert. Then, follow the instructions in the manual provided with the liner offset adapter kit.

10.6 Minimum Chimney Height
The top of the chimney should be tall enough to be above the air turbulence caused when wind blows against the house and its roof. The chimney must extend at least 1 m (3 ft.) above the highest point of contact with the roof, and at least 60 cm (2 ft.) higher than any roof line or obstacle within a horizontal distance of 3 m (10 ft.).

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10.7 Chimney Location
Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must have the right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold backdrafting when there is no fire in the insert, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is opened for loading.
When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This tendency of warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called `stack effect’, it produces a slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a slightly positive pressure zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater connected to a chimney that is shorter than the warm space inside the house, the slight negative pressure low in the house will compete against the desired upward flow in the chimney.
There are two reasons why the chimney in the house at right will cold backdraft when it is cold outside and there is no fire burning in the insert. First, the chimney runs up the outside of the house, so the air in it is colder and denser than the warm air in the house. And second, the chimney is shorter than the heated space of the house, meaning the negative pressure low in the house will pull outside air down the chimney, through the insert and into the room. Even the finest insert will not work well when connected to this chimney.
10.8 Supply of Combustion Air
In Canada, wood inserts are not required to have a supply of combustion air from outdoors because research has shown that these supplies do not give protection against house depressurization and may fail to supply combustion air during windy weather. However, to protect against the risk of smoke spillage due to house depressurization, a carbon monoxide (CO) detector/alarm is required in the room in which the insert is installed. The CO detector will provide warning if for any reason the wood insert fails to function correctly.
The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for your wood insert is from the room in which it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is not affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almost all tightly-sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of air needed by the insert. The only case in which the wood insert may not have adequate access to combustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust) causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors.

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

If an air intake is installed through the wall of the house, its pressure can vary during windy weather. If there are changes in wood insert performance in windy weather, and in particular if smoke puffs from the insert, the air duct should be disconnected from the insert to determine if it is the cause of the problem. In some windy conditions, negative pressure at the duct weather hood outside the house wall may draw hot exhaust gases from the insert backwards through the duct to outdoors. Check the outdoor air duct for soot deposits when the full system is cleaned and inspected at least once each year.

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Appendix 1: Installing the Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit
Only remove the knock-out that will be connected to the fresh air inlet. To install a fresh air intake kit to the insert, the purchase of accessory AC01298 is required.
Using pliers, remove the rectangular knockout plate (A) located on the left or right side of the convection air jacket. Choose the side that is best for your installation.
Then, install the fresh air kit adapter (B) using 4 screws (C). Secure the flexible pipe1 (E) to the adapter (B) using one of the adjustable pipe clamps (D). Secure the other end of the pipe to the outside wall termination (F) using the second adjustable pipe clamp (D). The outside wall termination (F) must be installed outside of the building.

1 The pipe must be HVAC type, insulated, and must comply with ULC S110 and/or UL 181, Class 0 or Class 1.

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Appendix 2: Installing the Faceplate

NOTE: If the depth and or the opening of the masonry hearth require the use of the optional projection kit and/or an optional faceplate backing plate kit, follow the instructions included with these options before beginning the installation of the cast iron faceplate.

1. Remove the steel faceplate already installed on the insert.

2. Put together the steel face plate with the two parts of the cast iron faceplate.

3. Pull gently on the blower switch assembly. It is very important not to disconnect the wires.

4. Approach the faceplate and screw the blower switch assembly on the left hand side.

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5. Install the faceplate on the insert, being careful not to pinch the blower switch wires.

6. Remove the air control wooden handle.

7. Slightly unscrew the two screws at the bottom of the insert. Hook the bottom faceplate and screw it back in place. Reinstall the wood handle.

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Appendix 3: Blower Replacement

1. Slightly loosen screws (B).
2. Lift the faceplate (A) by 1/2″ then pull it towards you to remove.

3. Slightly loosen the 4 wings nut (C) then pull the blower assembly (D) towards you to remove it from the convection air jacket. Make sure to disconnect the wiring as it is accessible.

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Appendix 4: Installing the Optional Fire Screen
Open the door.

Hold the fire screen by the two handles and bring it close to the door opening.

Lean the upper part of the fire screen against the top door opening making sure to insert the top fire screen brackets behind the primary air deflector as in (DETAIL A).
Lift the fire screen upwards and push the bottom part towards the insert then let the fire screen rest on the bottom of the door opening.

Warning: Never leave the insert unattended while in use with the fire screen.

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Appendix 5: Log retainers installation

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

.
Appendix 6: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle
1. Starting with the rear tube, lean and insert the right end of the secondary air tube into the rear right channel hole. Then lift and insert the left end of the tube into the rear left channel.
2. Align the notch in the left end of the tube with the key of the left air channel hole. Using a « Wise grip » hold the tube and lock it in place by turning the tube as shown in DETAIL A. Make sure the notch reaches the end of the key way.

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3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the two tubes in the back then install the baffle before installing the two front tubes.
4. To remove the tubes use the above steps in reverse order.
Note that secondary air tubes (B) can be replaced without removing the baffle board (A).

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

Appendix 7: Removal instructions
For the purpose of inspecting the insert itself or the fireplace, your insert may need to be removed. To remove your insert follow these instructions:
· Remove the faceplate assembly (A) using the reverse steps of Appendix 2. · If installed, take-off the backing plates (B) and (C) and the projection kit by removing the
front screws securing them to the insert. · Remove the screws that secure the chimney liner to the fixation brackets (E). · Unscrew the leveling bolts (F) located on each side of the insert. · Pull-out the insert from the fireplace opening to perform the maintenance work.

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Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List

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IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement parts for your insert, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve the right to change parts due to technology upgrade or availability. Contact an authorized dealer to obtain any of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved parts can result in poor performance and safety hazards.

Item

Description

Qty

1 AC01315

RIGID FIRESCREEN

1

2 30569

ROUND WOODEN HANDLE BLACK

2

3 SE24243

DESTINATION 2.3 INSERT FACEPLATE KIT

1

4 30441

ENERZONE LOGO

1

5 31007

SEALING STEEL “POP” RIVET 1/8″ X 1/2″

2

6 PL24242

BOTTOM CAST IRON FACEPLATE PAINTED BLACK

1

7 PL24243

LEFT CAST IRON FACEPLATE PAINTED BLACK

1

8 PL24241

TOP CAST IRON FACEPLATE PAINTED BLACK

1

9 PL24244

RIGHT CAST IRON FACEPLATE PAINTED BLACK

1

10 PL65084

FACEPLATE SUPPORT

1

11 AC01321

BOTTOM FACEPLATE BACKING PLATE 44″ X 6″

1

12 AC01333

BOTTOM FACEPLATE BACKING PLATE 50″ X 6″

1

13 AC01322

29″ X 44″ FACEPLATE BACKING PLATE KIT

1

14 AC01332

29″ X 50″ FACEPLATE BACKING PLATE KIT

1

15 AC01323

2″ OR 4″ PROJECTION KIT FOR INSERT

1

16 AC09145

BLACK WOODEN DOOR HANDLE

1

17 30123

SCREW #8 – 32 X 5/8” PAN QUADREX ZINC

2

18 30766

WOODEN DOWEL

1

19 30094

HEX SCREW WASHER HEAD 1/4-20 X 3/4″ F ZINC TYPE

8

20 SE65079

LOCK PLATE ASSEMBLY

1

21 PL65080

DOOR LOCK

1

22 SE24237-01 CAST IRON DOOR WITH GASKET AND HANDLE

1

23 SE65082-02 DOOR HANDLE ASSEMBLY

1

24 AC06300

SILICONE AND 5/8″ X 6.6′ BLACK GASKET KIT

1

25 PL65745

DOOR HINGE

1

26 30755

DOWEL PIN 1/4″ X 2″

2

27 30117

SET SCREW #10-32 X 3/16″ BLACK

4

28 PL65712

DOOR HINGE

1

29 SE23052

GLASS WITH GASKET – 18 11/16″W X 12 5/8″H

1

30 AC06500

SILICONE AND 5/8″ X 8′ BLACK DOOR GASKET KIT (AC-DGKNC)

1

31 PL65751

GLASS FRAME

2

32 SE53585

12 GLASS RETAINERS WITH SCREWS

1

33 30021

SELF TAPPING SCREW 8-32 “F” TYPE X 7/16″ FLAT HEAD QUADREX BLACK

1

34 AC09146

BLACK WOODEN AIR CONTROL HANDLE

1

35 30506

SCREW PAN TORX TYPE F 1/4-20 X 1″ BLACK

1

36 30206

ZINC WASHER 5/16″ID X 3/4″OD

1

37 SE65842

AIR CONTROL DAMPER ASSEMBLY

1

38 30187

STAINLESS WASHER ID 17/64″ X OD 1/2″

1

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Destination 2.3 Insert Installation and Operation Manual

39 SE65734

ASH LIP SUPPORT

1

40 30060

THREAD-CUTTING SCREW 1/4-20 X 1/2″ F HEX STEEL SLOT WASHER C102 ZINC

7

41 AC01298

5″Ø FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT

1

42 30337

SQUARE HEAD SET SCREW 1/2-13 X 1-1/2″

2

43 PL65731

LATCH AND HINGES ACCESS PANEL

2

44 30131

BLACK METAL SCREW #10 X 1/2″ TYPE “A” PAN QUADREX

8

45 PL34052

LINER FIXATION BRACKET

3

46 SE65746

BLOWER ASSEMBLY

1

47 44092

3 POSITION ROCKER SWITCH

1

48 PL65752

SWITCH BRACKET

1

49 PL65629

JUNCTION BOX COVER

1

50 60013

POWER CORD 96″ X 18-3 type SJT (50 pcs per carton)

1

51 PL65627

JUNCTION BOX

1

52 30413

UNIVERSAL SNAP-IN BUSHING8 5/8” BLACK

1

53 PL65626

FAN WIRE GUIDE

1

54 30484

WING NUT 1/4-20 X 1/2”

4

55 44028

CERAMIC THERMODISC F110-20F

1

56 PL65632

THERMODISC CASING

1

57 PL65746

FAN BOTTOM FIXATION PLATE

1

58 44075

TANGENTIAL BLOWER 1800 115V-60hZ-30W (S) 90 CFM

1

59 PL65748

FAN PROTECTION COVER

1

60 SE45925

INSTRUCTION MANUEL KIT DESTINATION 2.3 INSERT STOVE

1

61 AC05959

METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT – 342 g (12oz) AEROSOL

1

62 AC05963

METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT – 85 g (3oz) AEROSOL

1

63 21387

TOP AIR DEFLECTOR INSULATION

1

64 PL65505

TOP AIR DEFLECTOR PROTECTOR

1

65 PL30583

FLOORED BRICK RETAINER

2

66 PL36084

4″ X 4 1/2” X 1 1/4” REFRACTORY BRICK HD

1

67 29020

4 1/2” X 9” X 1 1/4” REFRACTORY BRICK HD

15

68 PL36636

4 1/4″ X 9” X 1 1/4” REFRACTORY BRICK HD

2

69 PL36056

2″ X 9″ X 1 1/4″ REFRACTORY BRICK HD

4

70 PL65514

SECONDARY AIR TUBE

4

71 21389

C-CAST (V2) BAFFLE 20″ X 12 1/2″ X 1 1/4″

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References

• It's Uptime | International® Trucks
• Enerzone | Wood Stoves, Inserts and Fireplaces
• P65warnings.ca.gov

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