ANGELWING DESIGNS JPS3 Mini Airplane Instruction Manual

ANGELWING DESIGNS JPS3 Mini Airplane Instruction Manual

700mm span Mini E2k Style Pylon racer Approved by Paul Bardoe of PB Models This is our first kit to be released with veneered foam wings. This gives a fast accurate build and a highly durable airframe with fast sport flying. It is just possible to build the JPS3 Mini to sub 250g if you use a light motor and 3s battery. However bolt in a 2207 2700kv motor, a 5×5 or even 5×7.5 prop and High C 4s 650mah batteries and experience the full “Mind Bender Mode” This is not a toy! Suitable for experienced pilots only

Suggested Equipment (multiple motor options)

2203.5 1500kv – 4s Lipo – HQ Prop 5×5 (2blade) 18 amp esc
2203.5 2850kv – 3s Lipo – HQ Prop 5×5 (2blade) 18 amp esc
2203.5 2850kv – 4s Lipo – HQ Prop 5×5 (2blade0 40amp esc

Extreme Setup, use with caution!
2207 2700kv – 4s Lipo – APC 5×7.5 prop 60 amp esc

Suitable for 3s 650 or 850mah Lipo or 4s 650 Lipo 3 x 5g Metal geared servos 4 Channel Micro RX

We used:

2203.5 2850kv, 4s Lipo , HQ Prop 5×5 2 blade 4s Tattu 650mah 75c Spektrum AR6100E RX 35amp BL Heli ESC Wired Matek Micro BEC 3 x King Max 5.7g Micro Digital Coreless High Voltage Servo (4.8V – 7.4V) Oracover Easycote Covering film.

Recommended Adhesives:
Foaming Gorilla Glue, or 2 part epoxy adhesive Medium CA, PVA or Aliphatic resin

Overview

Assembly Instructions

• 0.4mm Laserboard Fuselage doublers Ensure you make a left and right hand fuselage side.
  

• Pushrod guides in the two rear formers are orientated the same side.
  

• Do not pull and glue the rear of the fuselage sides together!
  

• Top sheet is used to determine the width of the fuselage at the rear
  

• Accurately sand these surfaces to match the angle of the hatch
  

• 1.5mm Plywood spacer
  

• Lower Rear 2.5mm Balsa sheet
  

• Lower front 2.5mm Balsa sheet
  

• Magnets fitted flush with the top surface
  

• Magnets fitted flush with the top surface
  

• Magnet hold down plate is pushed back against the former
  

• Hatch Components
  

• Tongue is fitted with a 3mm overhang
  
  Important!
  Magnets should be fitted flush with the plywood surface and polarity checked against those already fitted to the fuselage

• Run a bead of PVA wood glue or similar on the inside of the canopy joints to add strength We strongly suggest adding a simple tape grip to help remove the hatch. The magnets grab really well and if you squeeze too hard to remove the hatch you can smash the canopy in your hands! Don’t tell Paul Bardoe though as his is mainly superglue now!
  

• 

• You can now sand the fuselage ready for covering. All you need to add is a radius of approximately 2 to 2.5mm to the edges
  

• We have provided a full size plan to help, with the wing construction, clearly showing where to cut the wing for the ailerons, servos, servo leads and dihedral brace.
  If you intend to use a high power setup such as a 2207-2700kv motor on 4s we would suggest you also wrap the centre wing joint with lightweight glass cloth applied with epoxy resin. You may need to adjust the fuselage opening if you do this.
  The first task is to glue on the balsa leading edges. We like to use foaming gorilla glue for this secured with low tack masking tape while it dries. The Leading edges are then shaped using a razor plane and sandpaper to match the wing profile at the fuselage opening

• The triangular balsa wing tips are fitted so one surface follows the upper surface of the wing, then sanded to match the wing profile.
  

• 

• The wing roots need sanding to the correct dihedral angle.
  We prefer to sand the roots while they are sat in the outer polystyrene cores they were supplied in. The wings should be set to achieve an overall dihedral of 15 to 16mm.
  We pack up the tip of each wing by 7.5mm whilst in the foam block as and the root of the wing using the building bench as a square to sand against. Those of you who have a permagrit sanding block know just how good a tool it is for jobs like this.
  Before joining the wing make sure you pass a pull wire through the wire guide holes you made as per illustrated on the wing plan.
  

• We suggest joining the wings and glueing the dihedral brace with foaming Gorilla glue or 2 part epoxy.
  

• Once again, don’t forget if your planning to use a high power setup to strengthen the centre joint with lightweight glass cloth and epoxy”
  

• Please not the ailerons are bottom hinged using film covering or tape.
  

• Trial fit the wing into the fuselage making any adjustments to the wing seat area required by sanding the opening in the fuselage. Please do not try to force the wing into place when a few minutes of careful sanding will lead to a much nicer effortless fit.
  We prefer to cover the fuselage before covering the wing. Its just easier and leads to a better finish around the fuselage – wing join.
  We only do this of course once we have prepared the tail surfaces, and made sure everything is nicely aligned, square and true.

• 

• Typical tail and elevator section. Sand an even radius around the leading edges and tips, do not round the trailing edge as this can cause flutter
  The elevator can be top, bottom, or centre hinged to your personal choice.
  

• 

• Taper the rear of the fin to approximately 1 – 1.5mm thick. Radius the fin, but not the trailing egde.
  

• Trial fit the tail group. Do not glue! we suggest covering the fuselage and tail components seperatley.

• Ensure the wing, tail and fin all align correctly when viewed from the front or rear. Adjust the wing or tail seat using sandpaper or a needle file if required.
  

• Ensure the wing, tail and fin all align correctly when viewed from the front or rear. Adjust the wing or tail seat using sandpaper or a needle file if required.
  

• Make sure that the distances shown in both red and blue are equal on both sides. this will ensure that the wings and tail are aligned
  

• A little time spent now sanding the airframe smooth and filling any imperfections with a light weight filler can make a big difference to the overall finish of the model when covered.
  With film covering finishing the model with 320 grit paper is sufficient to get a really nice finish. Its important to use a tack cloth or slightly damp lint free cloth to remove all dust before covering.
  Contrasting colours top and bottom are suggested with small fast flying models such as the JPS3. For us a dark underside or chequerboard pattern works best

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