ANGELWING DESIGNS 850mm Span Micro Runt Lightweight Slope Instruction Manual
- June 5, 2024
- ANGELWING DESIGNS
Table of Contents
ANGELWING DESIGNS 850mm Span Micro Runt Lightweight Slope Instruction
Manual
Specification
Micro Lightweight Slope Model 850mm Span
2 Channel RC, Aileron and Elevator
Flying Weight 90g to 130g
Requires 2 x 2.5g Servos (emax 9251 or similar)
1 x 4g to 9g Servo for elevator
Small 4 / 6ch Micro Receiver and basic TX
Suitable RX Battery
example 4 cell 1/2aaa 230mah
Please note that this is a kit that requires adhesive, covering
basic modelling tools and modelling skills etc.
Instructions
Hopefully you have already made the decision if you wish to build the Micro
Runt with a single central aileron servo or to use 2 ultra micro servos (2.5g
to 3g). We personally use the 2 servo option as it is not only easier but
ultimately lighter and more flexible with radio set up. We supply bottom wing
sheeting to allow both options. Please note we do not supply torque rods in
the kit for the single servo option or any build info for doing this.
Pin the lower centre sheet to the plan. (Remember to protect the plan with a
plastic sheet or candle wax to prevent parts sticking to the plan) The main
spar supplied with the kit is Obechi rather than the balsa one shown for even
greater strength. You will not be able to easily pin through the obechi spar
so the pins should go either side of the spar as pictured to the right. This
is purely to hold the spar during the initial build phase of the wing.
Pin down the trailing edge sheet and add the 3 central wing ribs R1,R2 and R3.
Please note that R1 should be glued at an Angle for the dihedral. Use the jig
provided to obtain this angle. You can use PVA, CA, Balsa Cement for all of
the wood to wood joints on the Micro Runt, we use Deluxe Materials superhatic
adhesive for most of out builds. R2 gets cut away for the servo after the top
sheeting is added
Add all remaining ribs, R4 – R12 and the 3mm Balsa leading edge sheeting. You
will notice the leading edge has engraved lines to help ensure the wing ribs
are glued into exact position. This engraving should face towards the ribs.
Repeat the above steps to build the opposite wing half. Don’t forgot to build
a left and right wing panel. I think at some point we have all built 2
identical panels
Each Wing tip is made from 3 laminations of 3mm Balsa. We used PVA and small clamps to hold the laminations while the glue sets.
Sand the wing tips and trailing edge to shape. The actual section applied to
the wing tips really does not matter and is one of personal taste. An
approximate shape is shown on the plan. The Trailing edge of the wing should
be sanded so the rear is approximately 1mm thick. Again as example is shown of
the wing plan.
Cut a slot in front of the main wing spar through R1 and R2, You can use a
Dremel type tool with a cut off wheel or a small saw such as a razor saw, or
junior hacksaw. If the slot is a little too tight for the Dihedral brace to
fit a nail file is ideal to gentle open up the slot. Remember its important to
have a good fir against the spar, which should be free of any adhesive or
remnants or the ribs. If you do have any gaps then use epoxy to glue the brace
into position.
Add the top centre sheeting to the wing panel that now has the dihedral brace.
Small clamps or clothes pegs are ideal rather than pinning through the thin
balsa sheet.
Again cut through R1 and R2 as per the opposite wing panel. You can now join the wing panels ensuring you have the correct dihedral angle of 30mm measured under one wing tip as shown on the wing plan.
Add the remaining top centre sheet after joining. You can now final sand the
wing. We suggest that the ailerons are NOT removed at this stage and are only
cut from the wing when you are ready to cover. This helps keep the components
warp free right up to the point of covering.
No plan is required to build the fuselage. The main fuselage formers key into
the each fuselage side to ensure a quick and accurate build. Start with Former
F2 making sure it is square to the fuselage side.
Now add the 0.4mm ply canopy frame. The frame must only be glued to the
fuselage side and not the canopy that will be cut away later. If you are not
comfortable doing this the 0.4mm ply frame can be added after the removal of
the canopy later in the build.
Add F3 again making sure it is square to the fuselage side.
You can now join the two sides adding F1 as you pull the nose together. The
fuselage may not look straight at this stage. The top and bottom sheeting is
cut to size and determines the final shape of the fuselage
Add the wing seat doublers to the inside of the fuselage. You may need to trim
these for an exact fit due to tolerances in the sheet thickness of the balsa
formers.
Locate the lower sheet components LS1 – LS5
The rear of the fuselage should be pulled together using masking tape and a
scrap of 1mm Balsa before fitting the lower sheeting. This gap is to take the
fin post, which is why the fuselage isn’t glued at the rear.
You can pre join all of the lower sheet before fitting, or starting at the
nose glue each sheet into place. We use masking tape to hold the sheet down.
This also allows some manipulation fo the fuselage sides as you work so you
can ensure you have an accurate, straight fuselage. Don’t forget to glue the
sheets together as you go.
The rear fuselage top sheet is made from 3 pieces. TS1-TS3 The front most
sheet TS1 needs to be sanded or cut to a chamfer so it can fit accurately
against the rear of former F3.
To save the skills required of building a ship in a bottle now is the time to
put the PTFE elevator tube into place. This slides through the rear slot is
TS2 and through one of the holes in F3. The tube must not be glued at this
stage as it may need to the moved once the fin is built.
The nose block is laminated from 7 pieces of 3mm balsa sheet. The centre core
is hollow to allow a small amount of lead shot to be added if needed
The canopy sheeting is made from 2 layers of 3mm Balsa. The lower sheet needs
to be sanded / cut to match the angle of the nose blocks, equally the rear
needs to be shaped to match the canopy line
The fuselage can now be sanded to shape. A small radius can be sanded onto the
lower and rear fuselage sheet. The canopy can have a much more rounded look
The Canopy can now be cut away from the fuselage
Glue one of the 2 magnets supplied into the 0.8mm plywood retainer.
Either medium CA or epoxy adhesive works best.
Glue the front magnetic catch into the nose block. The precut slots in the
nose block determine the angle for the catch.
The Plywood rear tongue is glued flush with the rear of the canopy.
The 2nd magnet gets glued to the inside of the canopy.
The wing is faired into the fuselage with the 3mm balsa parts. We suggest
masking around the edge of the fairing with tape when sanding to protect the
wing sheeting
The fin is a hollow cored structure. Start by glueing the 1mm balsa core
components onto one of the outer sheets. The outer sheet negates the need for
a paper plan to build the fin.
Note the leading and trailing edges should overhang!
Trim away the balsa where indicated for the PTFE elevator pushrod tube.
The other half of the fins outer skin can now be added. we still haven’t glued
the fin to the fuselage at this stage in case we need to adjust its vertical
alignment. You can tack glue it into place if you prefer. Another way is to
slide the wire pushrod into place then slowly remove the fin and ptfe tube
assembly leaving the wire in place.
The tailplane only needs a small radius sanding on the leading edge and tips.
You can sand the trailing edge a little if you wish but at only 1.5mm thick
there isnt much need. Cut the elevator away and add a chamfer to allow top
hinging.
The ailerons can now be cut free from the wing. You have the option of top
hinging of centre hinging. Shape the Leading edge of the aileron to suit. We
strongly recommend top hinging as it is very important to have a sealed hinge
line.
