KENWOOD CA-CUT14 Cut-In Lid Kit for 6×9 Inches Speakers Instruction Manual

KENWOOD CA-CUT14 Cut-In Lid Kit for 6×9 Inches Speakers

Safety precautions

WARNING
The factory saddlebag hinges limit the size of the speaker magnet that can be used and allow the lids to open and close without issue. KENWOOD assumes ZERO RESPONSIBILITY for fitment issues, or water leaks when any speaker brand other than KENWOOD is used.

Do Not Use “Thread Lock” or “Screw Glue” of any kind, as it destroys plastic and will cause part failure.
Most speaker magnets are large and powerful. Credit cards and electronics can be sensitive to magnets, so please exercise caution in how you pack your saddlebags. Metal objects packed into your bags may end up stuck to the magnet, so please use caution when opening the lids. Magnets can also get hot when speakers are being played, especially at higher volumes. Please consider this when packing your saddlebags.

Installation procedure

1. Remove the saddlebag from the bike and put it on a stable working surface (placing blankets, towels, etc. on your work surface will help to protect the paint).
2. The black circle in Fig 1.1 is where a 5/8” (16mm) hole will need to be drilled. This hole is where the supplied silicone grommet will go to allow the lid’s speaker wire to pass through from the saddlebag. Use masking tape over the painted area to be drilled and start with a small bit, gradually working your way up to the 5/8” (16mm) hole. Drilling the hole with the lid still on is recommended.
3. Locate the wire harness and take the 48” section with the silicone grommet in line and install it into the saddle bag, making sure the 2 speaker “spades” are on the inside of the bag and the single 2-pin connector is on the outside of the bag. The black squares (also in Fig 1.1) are an approximation of where the supplied zip tie peel and stick “anchors” will be placed.

NOTE: Note: Before applying the anchors, you need to clean the plastic WELL using 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (it will eat plastic). Do not apply pads until the cleaner has completely evaporated.

Disassembling The Factory Lid

NOTE: The kit comes with 2 types of screws:

• 6 (each) Phillips head screws with a pointy end
• 16 (each) Phillips “Thread Forming” screws with a “flat” end

For proper installation of this kit, you will need to use the correct screws throughout the process. As you disassemble your factory lid, please make note of what screws came from where, as they will be re-used.

1. Referencing Fig. 1.2, open the factory lid and you will see 2 “T15” Torx screws on the “bag side” of the cloth tether that holds the lid to the bag. Remove these 2 screws, move the cloth tether out of the way, and you will see 2 more of the same screws which also need to be removed. The lid is now free from the bag.
2. Remove the 2 screws that hold the “key lock” to the factory lid. The chrome panel with the reflector built-in comes off the factory lid by removing the 3 screws right next to the key lock. At its seam, the factory foam gasket needs to be peeled up enough to allow the rest of the hinge mechanism to be removed from the factory lid.
3. There are 2x “T20” torx screws that hold the balance of the hinge mechanism to the plastic of the lid. Remove these screws and put the hinge mechanism aside.
4. Remove the T15 screw that holds the opening handle in place and pull the handle away from the factory lid.
5. Remove the last 4x T15 screws securing the large latching mechanism to the underside of the factory lid. This entire mechanism is now removed.

Mounting The Templates

1. Locate the cutting templates, noting that they are clearly marked “Clutch side” and “Brake side”. As shown in Fig 1.4, apply masking tape to the underside of the template to avoid unnecessary scratches to the lid’s paint.

2. Using Fig 1.3, put the correct template on the correct lid and drill through the 3 holes in the template using a 1/8” (3mm) drill bit. Locate 3 of the supplied “pointy” ended screws, and using hand tools, secure the template to the lid. You will also see “keyhole” shapes in each template where you will start to cut when its time. Drill a 1/8” (3mm) “starter hole” in each of these keyholes and then enlarge these holes to 5/16” (8mm).

3. Using a scratch awl or a pick tool (or something similar), scratch the factory paint all the way around the outermost area of the “cut line”. This gives you a line you can use “just in case” you need to trim your lid once your cutting is complete.
   We Strongly suggest using a blade made SPECIFICALLY FOR PLASTICS. When cutting your lid with the correct blade, there should be ZERO smell of burning plastic! Incorrect blades will do more melting than cutting. CUTTING THE GRILLE OPENING

4. For cutting, we suggest using a standard jigsaw or an air “body” saw. In all cases, you will start at one of the “keyholes” in the template and stop at the “hard corners” as shown in Fig. 1.5. Make sure to cut through all the tabs in the template. We suggest starting at the keyhole closest to the middle of the lid. Once the template is free from the lid, it can be discarded. You will now see the line you scribed in case you need to do any trimming before proceeding. TEST FITTING THE GRILLE

5. You can now test fit the grille to see if it fits nicely in the opening. Trim as needed, being careful not to damage your painted surface. Once you are satisfied that everything fits nicely, re-install the lid’s latching mechanism. Be sure to not put the lids on the bags yet.
   CLUTCH SIDE LID

6. Place the lid upside down on a blanket or something similar to protect its painted surface. Locate the speaker adaptor marked “Clutch”, noting that it only fits one way. In the order shown, put “thread forming” screws through the adaptor and into the grille so the pieces “sandwich” the opening. BE SURE to put a supplied rubber washer on screw #4!
   Using hand tools, get each screw started. Once started, tighten each one down until they “stop” (they don’t need to be any tighter than that and will damage the rubber washer and cause leaking if tightened more).
   BRAKE SIDE LID

7. Place the lid upside down on a blanket or something similar to protect its painted surface. Locate the speaker adaptor marked “Brake”, noting you will see it only fits one way. In the order shown, put “thread forming” screws through the adaptor and into the grille so the pieces “sandwich” the opening.
   BE SURE to put a supplied rubber washer on screw #3!Using hand tools, get each screw started. Once started, tighten each one down until they “stop” (they don’t need to be any tighter than that and will damage the rubber washer and cause leaking if tightened more).
   NOTE: Depending on what speakers you are using, this will determine if the supplied silicone speaker gasket is required. If your speakers have a soft foam (or other soft material) as a gasket already attached to the front of the speaker, the supplied gasket may not be required to help seal the speaker to the adaptor. If your speakers have no gasket (or a very hard gasket), we suggest using the supplied gasket.

8. The supplied gasket has a “flat side” and a “groove” side. Put the flat side against the adaptor so your speaker sits on the groove side. Using the supplied “thread cutting” screws, attach your speakers to the adaptors, noting which way the speaker wire connectors are for easy access once inside the bag. With the speakers attached to your lids, re-attach the lids to your saddlebags and re-install the completed bags to the bike.

Wiring The Saddelbags For Speakers

NOTE: The pre-terminated spade connectors on the harness inside the bag are correct for KENWOOD speakers but may need to have new terminals installed for other speakers. The larger connector (colored wire) is negative, and the smaller connector (black) is positive.

1. With the correct terminals on the wires, plug the wires into your speakers. If you have other accessories or amplifiers in your bags, you will need to determine the best routing of the wire. BE SURE TO LEAVE EXTRA SLACK SO THE LID CAN OPEN!
2. Use the supplied peel-and-stick zip tie “anchors” to secure the wires inside your bag. Before applying the anchors, you need to clean the plastic WELL using 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (It will eat plastic). Do not apply pads until the cleaner has completely evaporated. With the anchors in place, secure the wires in place using supplied zip ties.

Wiring From Amplifier To Saddlebags

The supplied long wire harness covered in a braid with 4 wires has two 2-pin plugs on one end, and a single 4-pin plug on the other. In all cases, the end with the 4-pin plug will go nearest the amplifier you’re using (which will typically be your fairing).
For FLH (Batwing) models, the harness will pass under the inner fairing where the main wire harness passes through on the clutch side of the bike.
For FLTR (Road Glide) models, the harness will pass through the inner fairing where the factory wires pass.

1. Loosen the tank console and run the wires up and over the gas tank, but under the tank console. There is a provision on the front of the tank console for the wires to pass.
   Note: You “can” lift the fuel tank and run the wires in the factory “chase” on the top of the frame if you want, but it is not required.

2. The other end of the harness will stop just behind the battery. Plug the wires from each saddlebag into the main harness, noting each pair of wires is marked “clutch side” and “brake side” for reference.

3. Undo the quick-release fasteners used to secure the bag to the bike so the bag can lean away from the bike, allowing you to access the wires on the back side of the bag installed earlier. The wire will go upwards and need to be secured to the peel-and-stick “anchors” using supplied zip ties.
   IMPORTANT: Any slack in the speaker wires between the bike and the bags MUST be secured under the seat to eliminate the chance that the wires could become tangled in the bike’s moving parts when riding!

4. The 4-pin connector on the wire harness will plug into the KENWOOD XM160-2 amplifier. If you are using another brand of amplifier, you will see that the wires near the 4-pin plug are labeled. Simply cut the connector off and wire the lids to your amplifier using the labels to identify each wire.

Important Notes
©2023 JVCKENWOOD Corporation. All Rights Reserved. KENWOOD® and eXcelon® are registered trademarks of JVCKENWOOD Corporation. Harley-Davidson®, Electra Glide®, Road Glide®, Street Glide®, Ultra Classic®, Tri Glide®, CVO™, Screamin Eagle® and Tour-Pak® are trademarks or registered trademarks of Harley- Davidson, Inc. and/or its affiliates and if used or implied are for reference only. There is no affiliation between Harley-Davidson, Inc. and/or its affiliates and JVCKENWOOD Corporation and/or its affiliates. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Specifications subject to change without notice.

For updated information (the latest Instruction Manual, etc.), please visit the following website: https://manual.kenwood.com/en_contents/search/

References

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