APOGEE 05059 Skill Level 3 Antares Explorer Instruction Manual

Made In USA
Kit #05059
Skill Level 3

Skill Level 3
Average Skills Needed

“In the heart of Scorpio burns a red star – Antares; and there we wish to go. We shall explore the depths of Antares’ ruby waves to better understand the coming disaster of our ever expanding, rapidly cooling sun. The Antares Explorer shall allow us to know what is to come in the next millennia. We must ascertain what time remains before the last foot must leave our home to voyage into the unknown of the interstellar neighborhood.” – IARC Research Mandate
The Antares Explorer is a Sci-Fi Scale model of an exploration rocket developed by the IARC (Interstellar Advanced Research Coalition) to probe the nearby Antares star system. The red supergiant α Scorpii A is the ultimate goal of their exploration. Here on Earth however, the Antares Explorer provides excitement far beyond discovering the stellar evolution of a far away system. It flies on 24mm motors (or 18mm with a motor adapter, sold separately), and can easily top 2000ft with readily available motors.

Antares Explorer Parts List

Item #
10091| Item Name
AT-24/3.75″| Qty

1

---|---|---
10130| AT-33/18″| 1
13031| CR-18/24| 1
13035| CR-24/29| 1
13056| 1/4″ x 3″ Launch Lug| 1
14263| 1/8″ x 2.5″ Wood Dowel| 2
15492| Antares Explorer Rings and Jig Cardstock| 1
15724| Antares Explorer Fin Sheet| 1
19468| PNC-33 (BT-55)| 1
24044| Crimped “E-Size” Engine Hook| 1
29114| Apogee 18″/15″/12″ Plastic Parachute Pack| 1
29526| 300# Kevlar* x 6 feet| 1
31254| Antares Explorer Instruction Sheet A| 1
31255| Antares Explorer Instruction Sheet B| 1
31256| Antares Explorer Instruction Sheet C| 1
39052| Antares Explorer Face Card| 1
41107| Antares Explorer Decal Sheet| 1

Needed Tools and Materials

• Pencil
• Ruler
• Hobby Knife with Sharp Blades
• Scissors
• Razor Saw
• Wood Glue
• Aluminum Angle Extrusion (or a door frame)
• Masking Tape or Cellophane Tape
• Wood Filler
• Sandpaper: 220 grit, 320 grit and Sanding Block (e.g. Apogee Sanding Tee – Item # 02100)

Optional Tools / Finishing Supplies

• Paper Towels
• Painter’s Tape or Masking Tape
• Sandpaper: 400 grit
• Paint Supplies: Spray Paint, Brushes, etc.
• Bowl of water with a little dishwashing soap

Assembly Steps

1. Using a sharp hobby knife, carefully remove all of the components from the laser cut wood sheet. Assembly Steps
   

2. Do not sand the fin components until after they are assembled. Apply wood glue to the joint and assemble the two pieces together as shown. Ensure that the pieces are flat and aligned, they should look like one piece when assembled. Allow to dry on a flat surface. This is your Dorsal Fin.
   

3. Lightly sand the surface of the dowels so that they are smooth and sand the ends flat. Assemble one antenna panel by gluing the dowel to the wooden antenna base piece as shown, making sure the ends are flush with each other. Ensure the dowel is centered along the antenna base. Repeat for the second antenna panel. Allow to dry.
   
   

4. Draw a line anywhere along the length of the main tube (AT-33/18”). This will now be the “top” of the rocket. Cut out the fin alignment guide using scissors or a hobby knife. Wrap the guide around the tube and tape to hold closed, aligning the Dorsal Fin – top marking on the longitudinal line just drawn. Then slide the guide so that the back edge of the guide is approximately 1” (25.4mm) from one end of the tube. Mark and label all of the lines shown on the guide, then remove it and extend all the lines at least 9” (228.6mm) from the back end of the tube.
   

5. Mark 2-3/4” (70mm) from the aft of the tube along the Small Fin lines, 4-3/8” (111mm) along the Launch Lug line, and 7-1/2” (190mm) along the Antenna lines. No marks need to be made on the Main Fins and Dorsal Fin lines, as they will be mounted flush with the back of the tube.
   

6. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut a notch into each side of the 24/29 centering ring (the larger green cardboard ring) as shown to provide clearance for the engine hook and shock cord.
   

7. On the motor mount tube (AT-24/3.75”), mark a line along the entire length for an engine hook. Cut out the motor mount tube alignment guide and tape it on 1/2” (12.7mm) from one end of the tube. This end will be the aft end of the motor mount tube. Mark a complete circle around the tube using the edge of the guide, then mark all the Nozzle Vane positions from the circle to the end of the tube.
   

8. Mark along the engine hook line 1/4” (6.35mm) and 1/2” (12.7mm) from the Front end of the tube. Finally, cut a 1/8” (3.18mm) wide slot at the line 1/4” (6.35mm) from the front.
   

9. Apply a small dab of glue to the base of each of the eight engine nozzle vanes, and glue into place on each of the marked lines flush with the the end of the tube. Make sure they are perpendicular to the tube, and not tilted. Once all eight are attached, allow them to dry before continuing.
   

10. Remove the centering rings from the cardstock sheet. Rotate the motor mount tube so that the vanes are facing away from you. Insert the engine hook into the previously cut slot in the motor tube, with the crimped end hanging over the side with the vanes. Apply wood glue to the front side of each nozzle vane, and slide the aft centering ring (the ring with a single notch along the inner hole) all the way back to attach it to the nozzle vanes. Apply a bead of glue to the joint connecting the tube and the centering ring, and smooth with your finger to form a fillet.
    

11. Put a ring of wood glue on the inner edge of the front (non-vaned) end of the motor mount tube. Insert the 18/24 centering ring (the smaller green cardboard ring) into the tube until the front edges are flush.
    

12. Tie the shock cord around the middle of the motor mount tube. Add a dab of wood glue on the knot to secure it.
    

13. Route the shock cord through the hole in the forward centering ring (the second cardstock ring). Apply a bead of glue around the motor mount tube at the 1/2” (13mm) line, and slide the front centering ring into place, with the shock cord in one notch and the engine hook in the other. Pull the shock cord so that the loop that was tied in the last step sits tight against the forward centering ring and apply a fillet of glue on the joint and shock cord loop.
    

14. Apply glue to the forward end of the motor mount tube in front of the cardstock centering rings and slide the 24/29 centering ring (the green one previously notched) over the shock cord and onto the motor mount tube so that it butts up against the forward centering ring. Ensure the shock cord and engine hook are aligned with the notches in the ring.
    

15. Route the shock cord through the motor mount tube so that it sticks out the back. Taking the 33mm body tube, apply wood glue to the inside aft end (the end with the Small Fin labeled lines) approximately 2-1/2” (64mm) deep, and at the very inside edge. Rotate the motor mount so that the engine hook is aligned with the Small Fin – bottom line on the body tube and push it in until the nozzle vanes contact the body tube. At this point, the aft centering ring should be flush with the body tube.
    

16. Shape the antennas by sanding the front edge of the dowels so that they are angled and coplanar with the front surface of the base. If there are any gaps, apply a wood filler to the joint between the base and the dowel. Once the filler dries, sand the joint smooth.
    

17. Using a sanding block or the Apogee Sanding Tee (https://www.apogeerockets.com/Building-Supplies/Tools/Apogee-Sanding-Tee) sand the surface and edges of all six fins so that they are smooth.
    

18. Draw a line along the length of the launch lug, then mark 1/4” (6mm) from either end. Using a razor saw, cut both ends of the launch lug at an angle as shown. If the ends are uneven, simply sand them until they are visually similar.
    

19. Route the shock cord back through the motor mount tube so that it sits within the body tube. Using a hobby knife, remove the cardstock alignment guides from the sheet. Slide the round alignment guide onto the body tube to assist with radial alignment. Apply a small bead of wood glue to the bottom (longest side) of each Small fin, then place the fin along the Small Fin lines, with the back of the fin at the mark 2-3/4” (70mm) from the aft edge of the body tube. The fin grain should be parallel with the forward edge of the fin. Once the fins are in place, slide the alignment guide down over the fins to hold them in place. Allow the small fins to dry.
    

20. Ensure that the alignment guide can slide. If not, break any binding before continuing. With the alignment guide still around the small fins, apply a bead of glue to the root of the dorsal fin and install it along the Dorsal Fin – top line flush with the aft edge of the body tube (not the motor tube). Slide the alignment guide so that it stops against the dorsal fin. Apply glue to the roots of the main fins and install them along the Main Fin lines. Allow the fins to dry with the alignment guide still in place.
    

21. Slide the alignment guide away from the fins towards the front of the tube. Apply wood glue to the base of the antennas and position along the ANT lines with the antenna sticking out towards the back, and the aft edge of the base part at the marked line 7-1/2” (190mm) from the aft end of the tube. Once the antennas are in place, slide the round alignment guide back down around the two bases, and place the small alignment guide at the far end of the dowels. Align the notch in the small alignment guide with the Small Fin – bottom line to ensure proper alignment.

22. Apply wood glue to the longer side of the launch lug and place it on the rocket along the Launch Lug line with the aft end of the launch lug at the marked position 4-3/8” (111mm) from the aft of the tube. Allow the rocket to dry completely.
    

23. Remove the alignment jigs by sliding the small jig off the back and the large jig off the front. Apply fillets to all of the fins as well as the antennas and launch lug by running a bead of wood glue along the joint and using a finger to form a smooth fillet.
    

24. The included parachute can be cut to three different sizes. Cut it out on the 15” line (the middle line). Place a reinforcing ring at each of the corners and using a pencil or hobby knife, puncture the center of the ring.
    

25. Cut the shroud lines into three equal sections, as shown. Then tie the shroud lines through the reinforcement rings and around the outside of the parachute as shown. Apply a small dab of wood glue to each of the knots and allow the parachute to dry before installing in the rocket.
    

26. Once the rocket is completely dry, tie the shock cord to the nose cone and apply tape to the remaining tail to prevent the knot from coming loose. Then, collect the three shroud lines from the parachute, pass them through the loop on the nose cone, and pull the parachute back through the ends, pulling the knot tight.
    

27. Fill and sand any rough sections of the rocket’s surface. Spray a coat of primer over the entire rocket and sand it well. Mask the majority of the rocket to apply the red highlights. Once the red is cured, mask just the painted sections and apply the chrome. This particular paint order is preferable as the metallic paint tends to be fairly easy to mar with masking and handling.
    

28. Allow the final coat of paint to harden for at least a full day (24 hours) before applying the vinyl decals. To allow easy repositioning, the decals can be dipped in soapy water (after removing the paper backing) prior to placing on the rocket. While positioning, keep the decal wet. Once it is in the correct location, press it down firmly and squeegee out any water underneath. When the decal dries, it will be permanently affixed to the rocket. If using an aluminum paint rather than a chrome, the rocket can be sprayed in a clear coat after decal application to protect the finish. Clear coat often dulls chrome finishes, so care should be taken to check compatibility before application.
    

29. Congratulations, your Antares Explorer is now complete and ready to be flown!

Launch Supplies Needed
To launch your rocket you will need:

• A launch pad with a ¼” (6mm) launch rod and a launch controller that can handle the selected ignitors
• Recovery Wadding
• Engines such as those recommended in the motor chart.
• Additional motors can be found at:
  https://www.apogeerockets.com/Model-Rocket-Kits/SkillLevel-3-Model-Rocket- Kits/Antares-Explorer#motors

*Antares Explorer Suggested Motor Chart

Prepping your rocket for flight

• A. Crumple and insert 3 or 4 sheets of recovery wadding into the tube, push them to the bottom with a long dowel.

• B. Fold the parachute so that the shroud lines all come together, then place the shroud lines onto the parachute in a loop and fold the parachute in half long ways to surround the shroud lines. Fold the parachute again – this time the other way – to shorten the whole package and insert first the shock cord and then the folded parachute into the rocket. Slide on the nose cone.

C. Install the motor by sliding it into the motor mount tube and clipping the engine hook around the end to keep it from blowing out. If a 70mm long Estes motor such as the C11 or D12 is being used, a spacer will be required to keep the motor in place.

• D. Insert and secure the igniters as directed in the engine’s instructions. Place on the launch pad and connect the clips to the igniter.
• At this point the assembly of the rocket is complete and the rocket is ready for flight. Continue to follow the countdown and launch procedures.

Countdown and Launch Procedure

• The Antares Explorer is a light rocket designed for high flights. Even a flight on an Estes D12 will have an apogee over 1000ft. As such, flights must be done at a large field and – unless you like walking – in light winds. The area around the launch pad should be free from dry grass and other fire hazards, and the pad should be as far from trees, powerlines and low-flying planes as possible.

1. Remove the safety key from the launch controller
2. Place the rocket on the launch pad. The rocket should slide freely along the rod.
3. Attach the clips to the igniter wires. The clips must not touch either each other or the metal blast deflector. Otherwise, a misfire is likely.
4. Stand back from the rocket as far as the launch wire allows ( a minimum of 40 feet for motors E or larger ).
5. Insert the safety key to arm the launch system.
6. Give a loud countdown? 5… 4… 3… 2… 1… LAUNCH
7. Press and hold the button until the engine ignites. Once the rocket is away, remove the safety key.

Misfire Procedure

A misfire is when an engine does not light after the launch button is pressed. This is sometimes a result of the igniter burning but failing to light the engine. At other times, the igniter will not burn at all (this is often indicative of a short between the clips). To deal with a misfire safely, remove the safety key from the launch controller and wait a full minute (60 seconds) prior to approaching the pad. Check that the igniter wires or clips were not touching, causing a short. If they were, the short can be corrected and a launch attempted again. If the engine simply failed to light, remove the old igniter and install a new one. Make sure that the igniter is installed all the way into the engine and that it is in contact with the propellant. Always follow the NAR (National Association of Rocketry) Model Rocket Safety Code when launching model rockets.
*Kevlar® is a brand name of E.I. DuPont for their selection of aramid fibers. Only DuPont makes Kevlar®.

Need parts or Accessories to go along with this kit?
Go online and order at www.ApogeeRockets.com or call us and
order at 719-535-9335. We’re available M-F: 9:00am-5:00pm MST

https://www.ApogeeRockets.com/High-Power-Rocketry-Certification

References

• High-Power Rocketry & Certification : Apogee Rockets, Model Rocketry Excitement Starts Here

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